George Boyle
Sewing lace trim onto a wedding dress is a delicate task that requires patience and careful planning. It is essential to prepare the lace and the fabric beforehand by washing and cutting them to ensure they complement each other well. Identifying the right and wrong sides of the lace is crucial, and marking the wrong side can help ensure the lace is sewn with the right sides facing out. When sewing lace, the goal is to create a seamless look, so selecting a thread that closely matches the colour of the lace is important. To achieve a nearly invisible seam, some techniques involve marking the pattern lines on the lace with a basting stitch and then cutting and trimming the lace accordingly. It is recommended to use sharp tools, such as pins and scissors, to avoid snagging the delicate fabric. Sewing lace trim can be time-consuming, but the end result can be stunning, adding a touch of royalty to any wedding dress.
Characteristics and their values
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Lace preparation | Wash and soak lace fabric to remove starch, cut the edging off, then cut and trim the fabric |
| Thread type | Standard weight or all-purpose thread, preferably poly-blend |
| Thread colour | Same colour as the lace |
| Sewing technique | Zig-zag stitch, appliqué seam, lace invisible seam, baste stitch |
| Tools | Sewing machine, sharp pins, sharp scissors, dress form |
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What You'll Learn
Identify the right and wrong sides of the lace
When sewing lace, it is important to identify the right and wrong sides of the fabric. The right side is the front of the fabric, or the side you want to be visible. The wrong side is the back of the fabric, or the part you want to be hidden.
Some lace fabric may have distinct right and wrong sides, while others may be more difficult to distinguish. If your lace has a print on only one side, that side is most likely the right side. If there is a print on both sides, the right side may appear brighter. You can also look for any writing or markings, such as the brand name, which should be on the right side. If your lace fabric has pinholes from the manufacturing process, run your finger gently across it. If you feel raised dots, this is likely the right side.
If the right and wrong sides are difficult to differentiate, you can try examining the fabric closely for any subtle differences in the weave or finish. One side may be slightly fluffier or have a texture that is not present on the other side. You can also try dimming the lights and shining a bright flashlight at the fibres of the fabric to compare the sides.
If you still cannot tell the difference, your fabric may be double-sided. In this case, you can choose one side to be the right side and mark the wrong side with chalk, a washable pen, or a washable crayola marker. This will help ensure that you sew the lace with the right sides facing out.
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Wash and prepare your lace trim
Preparing your lace trim before sewing is a crucial step, especially if you're working with cotton lace trim, which tends to shrink significantly. Here are some detailed instructions for washing and preparing your lace trim:
Wash Your Lace Trim
Before you begin sewing, it's essential to wash your lace trim gently by hand with lukewarm water and a mild fabric detergent. This process will help remove any starch or impurities that might make the lace stiff and difficult to work with. Remember to test a small scrap of the lace first, as sometimes a slightly stiffer lace can be easier to sew. After washing, lay the lace flat to dry completely before moving on to the next step.
Inspect and Iron Your Lace Trim
Once your lace trim is clean and dry, carefully inspect it for any wrinkles or creases. If there are any, set your iron to the lowest setting and iron the lace in sections until all wrinkles are removed. To protect the delicate lace fabric during ironing, place a towel or cloth over it.
Cut and Prepare the Edges
Before trimming, you must carefully cut the lace trim to the desired length, ensuring that you cut around the edges of the major design elements, such as scallops or flower petals. Avoid cutting through these design elements, as it could damage the lace. After cutting, prepare the edge that you will be trimming by creating a narrow hem. This step will ensure a neat finish when you attach the lace trim to your wedding dress.
Pin the Lace Trim in Place
Now, you can pin your lace trim to the edge of the fabric on your wedding dress. Overlap the trim by at least 1/4 inch (6mm) to ensure a secure attachment. If you're adding lace on top of the fabric, simply pin it in place without the need for an overlap.
By following these steps, you will have a clean, prepared lace trim ready for sewing onto your wedding dress. Remember to take your time and handle the lace with care to achieve the best results.
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Choose a thread that matches the colour of your lace
When sewing lace, the goal is to create a seamless look. To achieve this, it is important to choose a thread that closely matches the colour of your lace. This will help to create an almost invisible seam, ensuring that your stitching blends seamlessly with the lace fabric.
To find the perfect match, take a swatch of your lace fabric with you when you go thread shopping. This way, you can compare the lace to different thread colours and find the one that best suits your needs. If your lace has a complex colour or pattern, you may need to get creative in finding the right thread colour. Consider using a thread that matches the dominant colour of the lace or one that blends well with the overall colour scheme.
It's also important to consider the type of thread you will be using. A poly-blend thread is often stronger than cotton thread and may be less likely to break when sewing lace, especially if you are working with delicate or intricate lace patterns. Standard weight or all-purpose sewing machine threads are generally suitable for most lace projects. However, if your lace is particularly fine or fragile, you may need to opt for a thinner thread that will be less visible and minimise the risk of snagging.
Additionally, if you are sewing a wedding dress or any other formal garment, it is essential to pay close attention to the colour and type of thread used. Formal dresses often require a more delicate and refined approach to sewing, and the right thread colour can make all the difference in achieving that elegant, seamless look.
By taking the time to choose the right thread colour and type, you can ensure that your lace trim on your wedding dress will look flawless and elegant. This attention to detail will elevate your sewing project and create a truly stunning final product.
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Sew a baste stitch to gather lace
Sewing a baste stitch is an effective way to gather lace for a wedding dress. Basting is the process of sewing long, easily removable stitches by machine or hand to temporarily join fabric. It is a great way to test the fit of a garment before sewing permanent stitches.
To sew a baste stitch, start by setting your machine to the baste stitch setting. Then, sew along the edge of the lace that you want to gather. Hold on to one end of the baste thread and push the lace material in the opposite direction to gather it. Repeat this on the other side, moving the lace inwards until you achieve the desired level of gathering.
If you prefer to hand-sew a baste stitch, start by pinning together the fabric you plan to sew. Thread a hand-sewing needle with a single thread and knot the end. Insert the needle at the edge of the fabric near the seam, ensuring it won't be sewn over by machine stitching. Begin your running stitch just inside the seam allowance. Sew a line of running stitches by inserting the needle and thread through both layers of fabric, creating a consistent stitch length.
Once you have basted the lace, you can sew it onto your wedding dress as desired. Remember to use a thread that matches the colour of your lace for a seamless look.
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Use a zig-zag stitch for stretch
When sewing lace trim onto a wedding dress, it is important to use a stitch that allows for some stretch. This is because the lace trim needs to be able to move and flex with the fabric of the dress, especially if it is a fitted dress. If a non-stretch stitch is used, the stitches may break when the seam is stretched, and the dress will be less comfortable to wear.
A zig-zag stitch is ideal for sewing lace trim onto a wedding dress as it provides the necessary stretch while also creating a neat and secure finish. The zig-zag stitch is a geometric side-to-side stitch that can be adjusted to suit the fabric and desired aesthetic. For example, a small zig-zag stitch is suitable for thin lace, while a larger zig-zag stitch may be needed for lace with a thicker border.
To create a zig-zag stitch, you can adjust the settings on your sewing machine. The stitch length determines the length of the zig-zag, while the width dial indicates the width of the stitch. It is recommended to test the zig-zag stitch on a scrap of fabric first, and you may need to make adjustments depending on the fabric and your personal preference.
When sewing lace trim, it is also important to prepare the fabric and lace before sewing. This includes washing and drying the fabric and lace to avoid shrinkage later on. You may also need to cut and prepare the edging of the lace before sewing it onto the dress.
By using a zig-zag stitch and carefully preparing your fabric and lace, you can successfully sew lace trim onto a wedding dress while allowing for the necessary stretch in the seam.
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Frequently asked questions
Wash your lace trim gently by hand with fabric detergent and lukewarm water, then lay it flat to dry. If your lace is stiff, you may want to soak it to remove starch, but be sure to test a small scrap first as lace is sometimes easier to sew when it's stiffer.
A zig-zag stitch is recommended for sewing lace trim. This will give the fabric some stretch, which is especially important if you're adding lace to a tight garment.
To avoid visible seams, you can try an "invisible lace method" or "lace invisible seam" technique. First, mark each seam line with a line of basting stitch in a contrasting colour. Then, cut between the panels, following a meandering path around any motifs. Finally, overlap your basting stitch seam lines and decide which motifs to sew down and which to trim away.
Sharp tools are key when working with lace, as the fabric is delicate and can easily snag. Use sharp, skinny pins, such as Dritz Glasshead Pins, and sharp, tiny scissors, such as Gingher thread snips, for trimming lace contours.
If you nick the fabric, you can hand sew or machine sew a tight zig-zag stitch over the nick to cover it. You can also cover the nick with another piece of lace insertion.
