Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress bustle is a bridal alteration that allows brides to move around freely after the ceremony without worrying about tripping over their dress's long train. There are several ways to bustle a wedding dress, including the American, French, Ballroom, and Royal bustle. An over bustle, also known as an American bustle, is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection for lighter dresses or multiple points for heavier fabric or longer trains. The American bustle is a simple and cost-effective way to add drama to the back of a wedding dress, creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To allow the bride to move around after the ceremony with ease and alleviate the fear of tripping over a long train |
| Types of Bustles | Overbustle, Underbustle, American Bustle, French Bustle, Ballroom Bustle, Royal Bustle, Wrist Bustle |
| Techniques | Sewing loops, buttons, hooks, ties, ribbons, or eye hooks to the dress; fastening the train to the rest of the dress; tucking the train underneath |
| Considerations | Cost, weight of the dress, number of bustle points, possibility of breaking, need for someone to help with bustling |
| Tips | Take most photos before bustling to show off the train, prepare an emergency bag with safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line |
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What You'll Learn
- The American bustle: a simple, elegant style with hooks/loops along the waistline
- The French bustle: a more complicated style where the train tucks under the dress
- The Ballroom bustle: a flattering style that hides the train, giving the illusion of a floor-length gown
- The Royal/Victorian bustle: a dramatic style with folds adding dimension to the silhouette
- The Wrist bustle: a loop is added to the underside of the train to carry it by your side
The American bustle: a simple, elegant style with hooks/loops along the waistline
The American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a simple and elegant style with hooks/loops along the waistline. This style of bustle is created by raising and securing pieces of the outside of the train to the waistline of the dress. This process brings the fabric tension up to the waistline, creating a dramatic, cascading feel at the back of the dress. Brides can choose to have one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for added flair.
To create an American bustle, loops or hooks are added along the waistline of the dress. The train is then fastened across multiple points, forming elegant pleats at the waist. This style can have one, three, or even five bustle pickup points for a more dramatic look. The American bustle is perfect for brides who want to move freely after the wedding ceremony without worrying about guests stepping on their train.
The American bustle is a simple style for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. It is also a very inexpensive option, requiring the least amount of buttons or hooks/eyes, sometimes just one. However, for heavier fabrics or dresses with many layers, the American bustle may not be suitable as it may not hold up.
If you are considering an American bustle for your wedding dress, it is important to consult a professional seamstress for their opinion. They can guide you on the best type of bustle for your dress and help you create the desired look.
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The French bustle: a more complicated style where the train tucks under the dress
The French bustle is a more complicated style where the train tucks under the dress, also known as an under-bustle. This style is the opposite of the American bustle, where the train folds under itself instead of over. The final look is a subtle two-layer hem that creates a design at the back. This bustle style is best suited to dresses with shorter trains, such as mermaid dresses and trumpet silhouettes.
To create this style, the seamstress adds colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown. Then, when the bride is ready to bustle the train, the train tucks up and under as each hook is matched with its pair, creating a streamlined fold. This bustle style can have numerous pick-up points for added flair.
The French bustle is a stunning option, but it can be a bit more difficult to implement, and you may need some extra help from your bridesmaids. It is important to note that the more complicated the style, the more it will cost.
There are several other types of bustles to choose from, including the American bustle, ballroom bustle, royal bustle, and the wrist loop. Each of these styles offers a unique look and functionality to the wedding dress. Ultimately, the choice of bustle depends on the bride's preference and the style of the gown.
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The Ballroom bustle: a flattering style that hides the train, giving the illusion of a floor-length gown
The ballroom bustle is a unique style that gives the illusion of a floor-length gown without any alterations. This style is perfect for brides who want to hide their train and create a seamless look. It is also one of the most flattering bustle types as it complements most dress silhouettes.
To achieve this style, multiple bustle points are sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold into itself delicately. This technique is more expensive than other bustles as it requires more points to be sewn in. The ballroom bustle can be identified by its vertical illusion, similar to ruching, created by gathering fabric centrally down the middle of the gown and through the back.
This bustle is perfect for brides who want to showcase their dress's intricate design without any distractions. The ballroom bustle's seamless look also makes it a popular choice for brides who want to create the illusion of a floor-length gown, even with a shorter hemline.
The ballroom bustle is a great option for brides who want to move freely during their wedding reception without worrying about their train. By bustling the dress, the bride can easily walk, dance, and greet guests without fear of tripping. It is a simple process that can be done by the bride's maid of honour, bridesmaid, parent, or close friend, with guidance from the seamstress.
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The Royal/Victorian bustle: a dramatic style with folds adding dimension to the silhouette
The royal or Victorian bustle is a dramatic style that adds dimension to the silhouette of a wedding dress. This bustle style is affixed at multiple points down the back of the dress, creating a series of dramatic folds. The royal bustle can be simple or elaborate, depending on the desired look. For a simple look, a singular pickup point can be created using one hook and eyelet to lift the train. For a more elaborate look, multiple pickup points can be added down and across the back. This style is perfect for gowns with a statement bow or sash at the back, as the fabric can be folded above the gown and secured with ties hidden under the bow.
The royal bustle is also known as an under-bustle, as the train folds under itself instead of over, creating an understated two-layer hem that adds design elements to the back of the dress. This style of bustle is perfect for those who wish to disguise the train of their dress entirely, as it can be completely hidden under the skirt at various attachment points. The royal bustle is a versatile option that suits most silhouettes and can be adapted to complement the style of the gown.
To create a royal bustle, colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers are added underneath the gown. When it is time to bustle the dress, the train is tucked up and under, and each hook is matched with its pair to create a streamlined fold. This style can also be achieved by attaching a tie to the underside seam of the skirt, so that when the bustle is complete, the skirt hem is just off the floor. An eye hook is then sewn to the end of the train, and the back of the skirt is tucked up and under the dress to attach the eye hook to the tie on the underside.
The royal or Victorian bustle is a dramatic and elegant option for a wedding dress, adding dimension and drama to the silhouette while providing functionality and ease of movement for the bride.
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$16.19 $18.99
The Wrist bustle: a loop is added to the underside of the train to carry it by your side
The Wrist bustle is an alternative to a traditional bustle, where a loop is added to the underside of the train to carry it by your side. This allows the bride to move around freely, without the hassle of a bustle, and creates a romantic look.
To create a wrist bustle, a loop of ribbon is sewn into the centre back seam of the underside of the train. This ribbon should be wide enough to slip onto the wrist easily. It is important to note that this type of bustle may not be suitable for all dresses and can be heavy to carry for extended periods.
If you are considering a wrist bustle, it is a good idea to have a seamstress add loops for a traditional bustle as well. This will give you the option to switch to a bustle during the reception if you find the wrist loop uncomfortable.
Additionally, it is recommended to practise carrying the train by your side for an hour or so before the wedding to get a sense of whether a wrist bustle will work for you. You may also want to consider wearing gloves to prevent chafing, as was traditional in the nineteenth century when trains were common on evening gowns.
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