Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress train is a long length of fabric that extends from the back of the bride's gown, creating a formal and elegant look. Trains can be sewn to the gown or detachable. Brides can opt for two looks for their wedding day: a ceremony look with a train and a reception look without one. This article will discuss how to pattern a wedding dress train, including deciding on the train's length and shape, and choosing whether to sew it to the gown or make it detachable.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Horsehair trim, chiffon, silk, lace, satin |
| Length | Trains can vary in length from barely touching the floor to many feet long. Princess Diana's wedding gown train was 25 feet long. |
| Attachment | Trains can attach near the waist or higher up near the shoulders. They can be detachable and attached with hooks and eyes, or elastic. |
| Shape | Trains should be narrower at the top than at the bottom. |
| Functionality | Trains can be engineered for photos and may need several bustle points for logistics like sitting in a car or moving around a reception. |
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What You'll Learn
Deciding the length of the train
When determining the length of the train, it is essential to consider the venue and the level of formality of the event. A longer train, such as the cathedral train, which extends 6 to 8 feet, exudes drama and grandeur, making it ideal for black-tie weddings, grand church ceremonies, or ballroom venues. On the other hand, a shorter train, like the sweep train, which barely grazes the floor, offers ease of movement and is more suitable for outdoor or casual weddings.
The bride's comfort is another vital factor. While a longer train creates a majestic aura, it can be challenging to navigate in smaller spaces. A shorter train, such as the court train, provides a happy medium between the look and manageability of a traditional wedding dress train. Additionally, the bride's shoe choice and petticoat selection can impact the ideal length, as these can elevate the gown, requiring slight adjustments to the train length.
To decide on the perfect train length, it is advisable to try on dresses with different train lengths and consider the overall concept of the ceremony. The train should reflect the bride's style and vision for her special day. Creating a mock train from scrap fabric can also help visualize and adjust the length to ensure it complements the gown and the bride's preferences.
Ultimately, the length of the train is a personal choice that should align with the bride's vision, style, and comfort. Whether opting for a dramatic cathedral train or a playful mini length, the train should enhance the bridal look and create a lasting impression.
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Choosing the fabric
When choosing the fabric for a wedding dress train, it's important to consider the season in which the wedding is taking place, the desired level of formality, and personal style.
For a summer wedding, lightweight and breathable fabrics such as Georgette, chiffon, organza, and silk are ideal. Georgette is a delicate and graceful fabric that achieves a modern crinkled texture. Chiffon is a soft and lightweight fabric that provides a lot of movement, making it perfect for dancing. Organza is a sheer fabric that is traditionally made from woven silk, creating a soft and airy material with a lot of movement. Silk is a luxurious, soft, and refined fabric that allows for optimal comfort and elegance.
For a winter wedding, heavier fabrics such as moire, satin, and crepe are more suitable. Moire is made of polyester or heavy silk taffeta and gives the illusion of glistening water when seen in light. Satin is known for its softness and sheen, reflecting natural light and adding sophistication. Crepe is a sleek and versatile fabric with a slightly stretchy and flowy appearance, often made from silk but now available in various fibres.
Other fabrics to consider include tulle, a lightweight and glamorous fabric that captures natural light, and brocade, which can be made from silk or synthetic fibres and is distinguished by raised designs woven into the fabric.
Additionally, lace is a popular choice for wedding dresses, offering endless options such as Alencon, Chantilly, embroidered, and guipure lace, each with unique characteristics.
The fabric chosen will impact the style and silhouette of the gown, so it's important to consider the overall desired look and feel of the dress when making a decision.
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Using scrap fabric to outline the shape
When designing a wedding dress train, it's important to consider the shape and length of the train. Using scrap fabric is a great way to outline the desired shape and make adjustments before cutting the final fabric. Here are some steps to guide you through the process:
Start by deciding where you want the train to start. Wedding dress trains can vary in length and can attach near the waist or higher up near the shoulders. Put on your wedding gown and use a piece of scrap fabric to mimic the train. This will help you determine the desired length and how much you want it to drag on the floor. Outline the shape of the train on the scrap fabric using a fabric marker. The shape should gradually increase in size from where it attaches to the dress to the ground, with a narrower top and wider bottom. Cut the train pattern from the scrap fabric. Now, try on your wedding gown again and ask a friend to hold up the mock train. This will give you an idea of how the train will look and feel. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern, such as changing the length or width to ensure it flows nicely and complements the overall look.
Finalizing the train:
Once you're happy with the shape and length of the train on the scrap fabric, you can move on to the final fabric. Cut the train pattern from your chosen fabric, making sure to account for any necessary seam allowances. If you want to add volume or help the train glide over the floor, consider sewing a ruffle underneath. For a more dramatic effect, you can add horsehair trim to the inside of the train to add body and curve to its edges. Horsehair braid added to the hem can also provide structure, especially if your dress is not made of a lightweight fabric like chiffon. Keep in mind that trains can be engineered from the inside to create a full look for photos, and you may want to add bustle points for ease of movement during the wedding festivities.
Creating a wedding dress train using scrap fabric to outline the shape is a fun and creative process. It allows you to experiment with different lengths and shapes before committing to the final design. Remember to consider the overall flow and movement of the train, making any necessary adjustments to ensure your train looks elegant and complements your wedding gown beautifully.
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Creating a mock-up
Identify the starting point of the train:
Decide where you want the train to start on the gown. Trains can attach at various points, such as near the waist or higher up near the shoulders. This decision will impact the overall look and flow of the train.
Choose a scrap fabric:
Select a scrap piece of fabric that can be used to mimic the train. It should be long enough to reach the desired length of the train. Consider using inexpensive fabric for this step, as it is only a mock-up.
Outline the shape of the train:
While wearing your wedding gown, imagine the train is attached, and use a fabric marker to outline its shape on the scrap fabric. Start from where the train will attach to the dress and gradually increase the width towards the bottom, creating a narrower top and wider bottom.
Cut and adjust:
Cut out the train pattern from the scrap fabric. Ask a friend to hold up the mock train while you wear the wedding gown. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern, such as changing the length or width to achieve the desired look.
Choose the right fabric and support:
Once you are happy with the mock-up, choose the appropriate fabric for the train. Consider the weight and flow of the fabric. For a fuller and more structured look, you may want to add horsehair trim or stiff net inside the train to add body and support. However, be mindful that certain fabrics, like chiffon, may not require or handle additional support.
Final adjustments:
Keep in mind the logistics of wearing a train during the wedding events, such as sitting in a car or moving around the reception. You may need to add bustle points to the train to make it easier to manage. Always refer back to your mock-up and make any necessary adjustments to perfect the final look.
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Adding horsehair trim
Next, the hemline should be folded so that the wrong side is along the hemline marking. An edgestitch can then be sewn along the folded side. This step may be more easily accomplished with a sewing machine, depending on the fabric and bulk of the dress. The free edge of the horsehair braid can then be tacked to the seams using a cross-pattern tacking stitch. Once the braid is secured, the two folded ends can be whip-stitched along the seam. A whip stitch is done by passing the thread over the edge of the fabric diagonally, without going through all of the layers.
The final step is to press or steam the new hemline, being careful not to scorch the fabric. A touchless steamer can be used to achieve a strong hem without the risk of damage. The horsehair trim will not be visible from the outside or inside of the dress once it is lined and will add the desired body and shape to the train.
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Frequently asked questions
Put on your wedding gown and use a scrap piece of fabric to mimic the train. This will help you decide how long you want the train to be. The train of Princess Diana's wedding gown in 1981 was 25 feet long.
Create a train pattern on a scrap fabric that gradually increases in size as it goes from where it attaches to your dress to the ground. The final train should be much narrower at the top than at the bottom. Outline the shape of the train where it will attach to your dress.
Sew a ruffle on the underside of the train to help it glide over the floor. If your dress is made of chiffon, avoid using horsehair trim as it may be too heavy. You can also use stiff net to keep the train off the floor.
