Creating A Wedding Gown: Pattern-Making Guide

Making a wedding gown pattern requires a lot of time and vision, but the end result is a one-of-a-kind dress. The first step is to determine the basic shape of the dress, such as A-line or mermaid, and the fabric, such as chiffon or taffeta. The next step is to take measurements of the bust, hips, waist, and hollow to hem. After that, a sewing pattern can be chosen or made, and the fabric can be bought and cut. Finally, the fabric pieces are sewn together, and adjustments are made as needed. Embellishments like lace or rhinestones can be added for a finishing touch.

Choosing the right silhouette for your body type

Hourglass Figure

If you have an hourglass body type, you likely have balanced proportions between your bust and hips, with a smaller waist. To showcase your curves, consider a wedding dress that cinches at the waist, such as a fitted bodice or a mermaid-style skirt. A-line silhouettes are also universally flattering for hourglass figures as they emphasise curves while providing a balanced look. V-neck or sweetheart necklines can also enhance your bustline.

Pear-Shaped Body

For pear-shaped bodies with a smaller upper body and broader hips, A-line or ball gown silhouettes can gracefully skim over the hips and accentuate the waist. Empire waist dresses are another excellent choice, as they highlight the smallest part of your torso, just below the bust, creating a flattering and romantic silhouette. Strapless or off-the-shoulder necklines can also help balance out the width of your hips by drawing attention upwards.

Oval/Apple Shape

For oval or apple-shaped bodies, where the bust, waist, and hips are around the same size, empire or A-line silhouettes can help elongate the body and create a longer torso. V-neck or deep V-necklines draw attention upwards, highlighting your upper body. Gowns with draped or ruched details around the neckline can also create a flattering and visually appealing effect.

Rectangle Shape

If you have a rectangle-shaped body, with a straight silhouette and similar measurements for shoulders, waist, and hips, opt for ball gowns or A-line silhouettes to add volume and definition. Look for dresses that allow you to cinch the waist with a belt or choose styles with built-in embellished waistbands. Embellishments and details like ruffles, beading, and lace can also create dimension and shape, drawing attention to the bust or waist area.

Inverted Triangle Body

For inverted triangle body types with broader shoulders and a narrower waist and hips, A-line or ball gown silhouettes can complement your figure by adding fullness at the bottom. Halter or scoop necklines can flatter your upper body and create a more proportionate look. Consider dresses with full skirts or sleeves to add volume to the lower body and balance out your silhouette.

Selecting the right fabric and colour

Fabric

The fabric you choose will depend on the silhouette and style of your dress, as well as the season in which you are getting married. Here are some popular wedding dress fabric options:

• Silk is a traditional, luxurious, and versatile choice that is suitable for all seasons. It is soft, refined, and has a graceful sheen.
• Satin is a classic option known for its softness and sheen. It is usually made from silk or polyester and can be worn in any season.
• Tulle is a lightweight, airy, and romantic fabric often used for the lining of gowns or veils. It is very delicate and ideal for spring or summer weddings.
• Lace is a popular choice for its intricate patterns, texture, and versatility. It is delicate, feminine, and romantic.
• Chiffon is a sheer, lightweight, and ethereal fabric often used as an overlay or accent detail. It is perfect for bohemian-style weddings and spring or summer celebrations.
• Organza is a thin, whimsical, and playful silk fabric. It is ideal for warm-weather weddings and can be used for layered looks to add fullness to gowns, trains, or veils.
• Georgette is a lightweight and sophisticated fabric, perfect for destination or summer weddings. It achieves a delicate and graceful drape and is suitable for sunny climates.
• Crepe is a gauzy and crinkled fabric that works well with soft silhouettes. It can accentuate curves and is suitable for minimalist designs.

Colour

The colour of your wedding gown can vary from traditional whites and ivories to more unique shades like blush or mocha. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the colour:

• Your skin tone: Certain colours will flatter your skin tone better than others. For example, a darker complexion may be complemented by a darker-toned dress, while a blush or antique ivory colour can suit those who want to avoid a stark white dress.
• The details: A darker shade of white can make details like lace stand out, while a coloured dress can be chosen to complement the embroidery or beading.
• Your personal style: Consider the colours you are drawn to in your home decor, dishware, or clothing. Choose a colour that reflects your taste and personality.
• The season and venue: The time of year and location of your wedding can inspire your colour choice. For example, summer weddings may call for brighter colours, while winter weddings often feature deeper hues. The colours present in your venue can also influence your choice.
• Your wedding palette: Consider how the colour of your gown will fit into the overall colour scheme of your wedding, including the attire of your wedding party, flowers, and decorations.

Remember, the most important factor is that you feel comfortable and confident in your choice of fabric and colour. It's your special day, so choose what makes you feel happy and reflects your unique style!

Taking your measurements

Step 1: Prepare

It is best to take measurements wearing only your underwear, as even a bra or nylon tights can add volume to your frame. If possible, enlist the help of another person to ensure the most accurate results. Stand straight, with your head level and arms relaxed at your sides. Ensure the measuring tape is comfortable against your body, not too tight or too loose.

Step 2: Measure the Bust

Pass the measuring tape around your back and up to the front, at the level of the fullest part of your bust. Keep the tape level, allowing a little room so that you can fit a finger between the tape and your body. Breathe normally, and do not hold your breath.

Step 3: Measure the Waist

The waist is the narrowest part of your torso, not necessarily at the belly button or across the hipbones. Wrap the measuring tape around your waist, keeping it level and allowing a finger's width of space between the tape and your body.

Step 4: Measure the Hips

Stand with your feet together and pass the tape across the widest part of your hips and the fullest part of your bottom. Again, ensure the tape is snug but not too tight; you should be able to fit a finger between the tape and your body for comfort.

Step 5: Measure Hollow to Hem (Optional)

This step is particularly important if you are ordering a custom dress. Measure from the centre of your collarbone (the hollow) down to the bottom of the dress (the hem). Wear your bridal shoes or shoes of similar height to get the most accurate measurement.

Always double-check your measurements to ensure accuracy. Remember that different brands have different size charts, so it is crucial to refer to the specific size chart of your chosen wedding gown pattern or designer.

Buying or making your own pattern

If you're an experienced sewer, you can make your own pattern. Use your measurements to make your pattern, adding 1.5” for seam allowance. If you've never made your own pattern, a wedding dress is a very difficult pattern to begin with.

You can also buy a sewing pattern. Once you have your fabric and style picked out, you can go to fabric stores and look through pattern books or order online. Each will be rated by level of difficulty. Make sure that a key/glossary, layout, and step-by-step instructions are included.

When you order your pattern, it is easy to combine multiple sizes to get the pattern as close to your measurements as possible. It's a good idea to get a few different sewing patterns so you can experiment with the fit you like best.

The sewing pattern is very important. If you don’t have experience making one, you need to purchase one for such an important garment.

You can buy sewing patterns from many online retailers, including Etsy and Amazon. Etsy offers custom wedding dress design services, as well as sewing patterns for a variety of dress styles. Amazon offers a wide range of wedding dress sewing patterns from brands such as McCall, Butterick, Simplicity, and Vogue.

Cutting and sewing the fabric

Once you have your fabric and pattern, it's time to start cutting and sewing.

Cutting the Fabric

Lay the pieces of your pattern onto your fabric and pin them down with straight pins. Cut the fabric, following the outline of the pattern. Do this with the inside of the fabric facing up. If you plan on adding pleats to your dress, make sure to cut extra fabric.

Sewing the Fabric

After all your fabric pieces have been cut, pin them together (inside out), keeping your pins along the 1.5" of the seam allowance from your pattern. Use a sewing model form to help you visualise the fit of the dress as you put it together. Fabric is flat, so once your fabric is pinned together, fold, bend, and gather it to accommodate the curves of your body. If you plan on pleating the skirt, pin it to hold the pleats and sew over the pins (you can remove them later).

Now, sew the seams by following the shape that you cut out according to your pattern. Use vertical princess seams—these go from the top to the bottom of the dress. It is impossible to make a one-piece dress without these seams, so the fabric cut should reflect that. Even if you have extra fabric on the bottom or sides of your dress, follow the pattern strictly. It was designed in your size, and your dress can be taken in much more easily than taken out once it's been sewn.

Trying the Dress On

Once you've sewn all your seams, gathers, and darts, try your dress on. Make any adjustments you need to get the proper fit, and have a friend pin these adjustments for you.

Sewing the Adjustments

Take the dress off and sew over the pins to make the necessary adjustments. Now is also the time to add any embellishments, such as a jewelled belt, lace applique, or any other finishing touches.

Final Steps

Cut any loose strings, make one more round of adjustments, or sew something blue into the inside of your dress for good luck. After this, your dress is ready for your big day!

Frequently asked questions