Streamlining Your Wedding Gown: Minimizing The Petticoat

A wedding petticoat is an essential accessory for any bride who wants to enhance the appearance of her wedding gown and make a statement as she walks down the aisle. Wedding petticoats, also known as bridal crinolines, are voluminous underskirts that add structure, shape, and fullness to the dress. They can be expensive to buy, and there is no guarantee they will fit your dress perfectly. However, making a petticoat at home is a simple process and a more cost-effective option. This guide will take you through the steps to make a small wedding petticoat, ensuring a perfect fit and a dreamy, ethereal look on your big day.

Choosing the right fabric

Fabric Type

The type of fabric you choose will depend on the amount of volume and structure you want to add to your wedding dress. Here are some popular fabric options for wedding petticoats:

• Tulle: Tulle is a lightweight and airy fabric that adds a subtle touch of volume to your wedding dress. It comes in various colors, making it a versatile option.
• Crinoline: Crinoline is a stiff and structured fabric that provides more volume and support to your wedding dress. It is typically found in white or black and is perfect for creating a dramatic effect.
• Chiffon: Chiffon is a smooth and flowing fabric that can be used for the top tier of your petticoat if you want less volume at the top of the skirt. It feels soft and comfortable against the skin.
• Taffeta: Taffeta is a crisp and full-bodied fabric that adds volume and structure to your petticoat. It is often used to create a more voluminous and extravagant look.

Fabric Weight and Compatibility

When choosing the fabric for your petticoat, consider the weight of your wedding dress. You want to select a fabric that is compatible with the dress's fabric and weight to avoid any discomfort or imbalance. For example, if your wedding dress is made of lightweight and flowy fabric, choose a lighter fabric for your petticoat, such as tulle or chiffon. On the other hand, if your wedding dress is made of a heavier fabric like satin, you may need a sturdier fabric for your petticoat, such as crinoline or taffeta.

Dress Style and Fullness

The style of your wedding dress will also play a role in choosing the right fabric for your petticoat. Consider whether you want a subtle lift or a dramatic, eye-catching effect. For instance, if you have an A-line wedding dress, a petticoat with one or two hoops can provide subtle volume and structure. On the other hand, if you're going for a fairytale princess look with a ball gown, opt for a petticoat with multiple layers of tulle or organza to achieve that enchanting, voluminous effect.

Additionally, consider the desired fullness for your dress. If you prefer a more subtle lift, choose lighter and softer fabrics. If you want a dramatic and voluminous look, go for fabrics like tulle or taffeta that can create a fuller silhouette.

Measuring and cutting

Before you begin measuring and cutting the fabric for your wedding petticoat, it is essential to determine the desired length and number of layers. The petticoat should be about one inch shorter than the dress or skirt you plan to wear it with. Measure the garment from the waist to the hemline to establish the appropriate length.

The number of layers you want will influence the amount of fabric required. For each layer, you will need approximately 4 yards of tulle. Tulle is a popular choice due to its stiffness, which adds volume to the petticoat. However, it can be itchy, so consider using a softer fabric for the first layer or sewing an underskirt if you plan to wear the petticoat without tights.

Once you have decided on the length and number of layers, calculate the length of each tier. As a general rule, the length of the tiers doubles from top to bottom. The top tier should be approximately twice your waist circumference or the length of the waistband. For example, if you want a three-tier petticoat with a 25-inch-long skirt, each tier would be about 8 inches long, with the bottom tier being 16 yards long.

Consider the seam allowance before cutting the fabric. Tulle typically requires a minimal seam allowance, and a simple zigzag stitch on the fabric edge will suffice. For other fabrics, allow for about 0.5 inches to 1.5 cm of seam allowance. The bottom tier only needs a seam allowance on one side if you plan to hem it with ribbon.

For the waistband, you can use ribbon, as it is inexpensive and adds a nice touch. Additionally, consider the fastening method, such as a hook closure or elastic waistband, and adjust the length of the petticoat accordingly.

Diagram for a Two-Layered Petticoat:

If you plan to create a two-layered petticoat, here is a diagram to guide you:

The top layer consists of a single tier, while the second layer has two tiers. The bottom tier of the second layer will be the fullest, with three layers of fabric. This design will give you a classic petticoat shape with ample volume.

Cutting the Fabric:

When cutting the fabric, follow these steps:

• Cut the fabric according to the calculated lengths for each tier, considering the seam allowance.
• Cut the ribbon for the waistband and hem, ensuring it is long enough to fit your waist comfortably.
• If using a hook closure, cut the necessary number of hooks and loops.
• For a more complex design, such as a mermaid or trumpet petticoat, cut the fabric according to the specific pattern instructions.

Remember to allow for some extra fabric in case of mistakes or adjustments. It is always better to have a little more fabric than not enough.

Assembling tiers

To assemble the tiers of your petticoat, you will need to cut strips of fabric for each tier. The number of strips you need will depend on how many layers you want your petticoat to have. For a three-layered petticoat, you will need one 2-yard strip for the top tier, one 4-yard strip for the middle tier, and two 4-yard strips for the bottom tier.

Once you have cut your strips, you can begin assembling the tiers. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Sewing the Bottom Tier

First, sew the two 4-yard strips together for the bottom tier. Place the strips with their narrow ends together and sew using a 1/2-inch seam allowance and a straight stitch. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch for a neat finish.

Adding a Ribbon Hem (Optional)

If you want to add a ribbon hem to the bottom of your petticoat, cut an 8-yard length of 1-inch wide satin ribbon. Fold the ribbon over the bottom edge of the fabric strip and secure it with pins. Sew the ribbon in place as close to the edge as possible, using a thread colour that matches the ribbon.

Sewing the Ends of the Bottom Tier

Fold the bottom tier strip in half with the right sides facing in and the seams facing out. Sew across the narrow ends using a 1/2-inch seam allowance and a straight stitch. Finish the raw edges with a zigzag or overlock stitch.

Sewing the Middle Tier

Take the 4-yard strip for the middle tier and bring the narrow ends together to form a ring. Sew across them with a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Finish the raw edge with a zigzag or overlock stitch.

Hemming the Top Tier

For the final fabric strip, fold and hem the narrow edges. Fold each narrow end by 1/4-inch and sew them down using a straight stitch. Alternatively, you can hem the edges with 1-inch wide ribbon, just like you did for the bottom tier.

Now that you have assembled all the tiers, you can move on to gathering the tiers and sewing them together.

Gathering tiers

Gathering the tiers is a crucial step in constructing a petticoat. This process involves sewing together the different layers of fabric to create a voluminous structure. Here is a detailed guide on how to gather the tiers for your petticoat:

• Sew two rows of straight stitches along the top edge of the bottom tier. Use a 1/4-inch (0.64 cm) seam allowance for the first row and a 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) allowance for the second. Remember to use a matching thread colour and a long stitch length with low tension for easier gathering.
• Gather the top edge of the bottom tier until it matches the circumference of the middle tier. Pull the bobbin threads from the two rows of stitching to gather the fabric. Keep adjusting until the gathered edge aligns with the middle tier.
• Cut the excess thread, knot it, and trim it close to the fabric. This will neaten the gathered edge and make it easier to work with.
• Sew the bottom and middle tiers together using a 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Ensure the right sides of the tiers are facing each other. Pin the layers together and sew along the top edge with a straight stitch.
• Fold the seam against the middle tier and topstitch it down. This step adds a neat finish to the petticoat and prevents the seam from feeling scratchy against your skin. Use a zigzag stitch for this step.
• Repeat the gathering process with the middle and top tiers. Sew two rows of stitching along the top edge of the middle tier, then gather until it matches the circumference of the top tier. Pin and sew the tiers together, and don't forget to fold and topstitch the seam.
• If you desire a two-layered petticoat, repeat the entire process of measuring, cutting, gathering, and sewing. Finally, tuck one petticoat into the other with the wrong sides facing in and sew them together along the top edge.

Finishing the petticoat

Now that you have gathered the tiers, it is time to finish the petticoat. Here are the steps to follow:

• Gather the top edge of the top tier to your waist measurement. Sew two rows of stitching, then gather them until the top edge matches your waist measurement. Cut the thread, knot it, and trim it close to the fabric.
• Cut a piece of twill tape that is 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) longer than your waist size. Choose a 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5.1-cm) wide twill tape that matches the colour of your petticoat.
• Hem the ends of the twill tape by 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm). Fold and press the narrow ends with an iron, then sew them down using a straight stitch.
• Fold and pin the twill tape over the top edge of your petticoat. Ensure that the left end of the twill tape aligns with the left edge of the petticoat, and the right edge of the twill tape extends past the right edge of the petticoat.
• Sew the twill tape down, starting from the left end and finishing on the right. Sew as close to the edge of the tape as possible, remembering to backstitch and remove the pins.
• Add hooks and eyes to the waistband. Add a hook to the underside of the left end of the waistband and add eyes to the top of the right side. If there is enough room, you can add more hooks along the overhanging waistband. Sew the hooks and eyes on by hand through the loops at the ends, or use snaps as an alternative.

Your petticoat is now complete! You can add more tiers to your petticoat if you wish, but you will need to make them narrower.

Frequently asked questions