Creating Indian Wedding Jewelry: A Beginner's Guide

Indian wedding jewellery is steeped in cultural and historical significance. The pieces a bride wears on her wedding day carry spiritual and cultural meaning, in addition to their physical beauty. Indian wedding jewellery is often made from precious metals and colourful stones, with traditional pieces typically made from gold. However, modern brides may also opt for platinum and silver, and incorporate colourful designs using Kundan, Lac, and Jadau.

Indian wedding jewellery is not just limited to necklaces and earrings, but includes a variety of pieces from head to toe, such as anklets, toe rings, waistbands, and nose rings.

Choosing the right materials

• Precious Metals: Traditionally, Indian wedding jewellery "goes for the gold" due to its auspicious nature and symbolism of wealth and prosperity. Gold jewellery, often featuring intricate designs and colourful gemstones, is a popular choice for Indian brides. However, modern brides may also opt for other precious metals such as platinum and silver to expand their colour palette.
• Gemstones and Enamel Work: Indian wedding jewellery often incorporates colourful gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and pearls. These gemstones add grandeur and elegance to the overall look. Additionally, enamel work, known as Meenakari, introduces vibrant colours and intricate designs to the jewellery pieces.
• Kundan, Polki, and Jadau Jewellery: The Mughal era influenced the use of Kundan, Polki, and Jadau jewellery in Indian weddings. Kundan jewellery is crafted by setting gemstones into a gold frame, while Polki jewellery features uncut diamonds set in gold. Jadau jewellery, on the other hand, involves setting precious stones on gold, resulting in ornate and intricate designs.
• Temple Jewellery: Temple jewellery, inspired by South Indian temple architecture, is known for its bold and distinctive look. It features intricate motifs of gods and goddesses and is commonly worn by South Indian brides. This type of jewellery is usually made of gold and may also be adorned with gemstones.
• Contemporary Styles: With the influence of Western styles, Indian wedding jewellery has evolved to include more contemporary designs. Brides may opt for minimalist and lightweight pieces that blend traditional and modern elements. Nature-inspired designs and floral motifs are becoming increasingly popular. Fusion jewellery which combines different materials are also in trend.
• Skin Tone and Dress Style: It is important to consider the bride's skin tone when choosing the metal for the jewellery. Warmer skin tones are typically complemented by yellow gold and rose gold, while cooler skin tones are flattered by silver, platinum, and diamonds. Additionally, the dress style and neckline should be taken into account when selecting the type of jewellery, such as choosing between a statement necklace or a delicate pendant.
• Budget and Customisation: Customisation is a growing trend in the Indian wedding jewellery industry, allowing brides to design unique pieces that reflect their personal style. Customisation also provides flexibility in terms of budget, as brides can select materials and design elements that align with their financial constraints while still achieving a personalised look.

Selecting the perfect earrings

Start with Your Outfit and Hairstyle

The key to achieving a harmonious look is to select earrings that complement your outfit and hairstyle. Consider the style, colour, embellishments, and neckline of your outfit. If your dress has a high neckline, opt for more delicate earrings like studs or drops. On the other hand, a strapless or sweetheart neckline can be beautifully accentuated with chandelier or statement earrings. Additionally, think about your hairstyle—if you plan to wear an elaborate updo, opt for smaller, more understated earrings, while loose hair can be paired with statement earrings for a glamorous effect.

Traditional vs. Contemporary Designs

Indian jewellery is renowned for its intricate traditional designs and contemporary minimalist pieces. Traditional earrings often feature intricate patterns and heavier designs, such as the classic Jhumki, the bell-shaped earring with hanging decorative elements. If you want to honour cultural traditions, opt for these timeless styles. On the other hand, contemporary designs incorporate geometric shapes and minimalist aesthetics, perfect for a modern bridal look.

Skin Tone and Face Shape

When selecting earrings, consider your skin tone and face shape. For warm skin tones, gold or rose gold earrings will beautifully complement your complexion, while cool skin tones are flattered by silver or platinum. Additionally, choose earrings that flatter your face shape—for instance, drop or chandelier earrings can elongate a round face, while statement studs or small pendants suit a heart-shaped face.

Comfort and Weight

Indian wedding ceremonies can be lengthy affairs, so it's crucial to consider comfort when choosing your earrings. Heavier earrings may require ear chains or additional support, especially if you plan to wear them for an extended period. Opt for lightweight earrings if you're concerned about comfort, or consider switching to more comfortable earrings for the reception.

Coordinating with Other Accessories

Think about how your earrings will work with the rest of your accessories. Do you want them to match your necklace, maang tikka, or waistbands? Creating a cohesive look with complementary metals and designs can elevate your overall style. However, be mindful not to overdo it—opt for simpler earrings if your other accessories are more prominent or intricate.

The importance of necklaces

Necklaces are an essential part of an Indian bridal ensemble, adding a touch of glamour and a majestic aura to the bride's overall appearance. While simple gold necklaces were once the standard, modern brides are increasingly opting for more embellished pieces featuring diamonds, Kundan, and other colourful accents.

The necklace is a central piece of jewellery that serves as a focal point, framing the bride's face and complementing her overall look. It is chosen to match the bride's style, personality, and the theme of the wedding. In Indian culture, gold is considered auspicious for major life events such as weddings, symbolising wealth and prosperity. However, today's brides may also incorporate other precious metals such as platinum and silver into their jewellery choices.

The type of necklace chosen can also vary depending on the neckline of the bridal attire. For example, a choker or shorter necklace pairs well with strapless or sweetheart necklines, while longer necklaces complement V-necks or scoop necklines.

One of the most significant neckpieces in an Indian wedding is the mangalsutra, which is a sacred thread that the groom ties around the bride's neck during the marriage ceremony. The wife wears this as a symbol of their love and commitment to each other, for as long as they are both alive.

In conclusion, necklaces hold great importance in Indian weddings, not only for their aesthetic value but also for their cultural and symbolic significance. They are carefully chosen to enhance the bride's beauty and to make her feel confident and radiant on her special day.

The role of bangles and bracelets

Bangles and bracelets play a significant role in traditional Indian weddings and are considered an integral part of the solah shringar for Indian brides. They are compulsory for newlywed brides and are believed to signify the long life of the husband, bringing good fortune and prosperity to the couple.

In Indian culture, bangles are more than just accessories. They are one of the symbols that mark a married woman, along with sindoor, toe rings, and mangalsutra. Traditionally, Indian brides wear bangles made of glass, gold, or other metals, with the specific type of bangle varying across different regions and communities. For example, in Maharashtra, the bridal chooda consists of green glass bangles in odd numbers, while in Southern states, brides may wear green-coloured glass bangles along with gold ones to signify fertility and prosperity. In Gujarat and Rajasthan, the bride's mother gifts her a pair of ivory bangles, which are considered essential for the wedding ceremony.

The bangle-wearing ceremony, which varies by region, holds immense significance in a Hindu wedding. In Punjab, for instance, the bride's maternal uncles give her a set of red and white chooda bangles, which she is supposed to wear for at least 40 days after the wedding. In Bengal, a new bride wears a conch shell bangle and a red coral bangle, known as shakha and pola, respectively.

The choice of materials and colours for bangles also holds meaning. Red symbolises prosperity and positive energy, green denotes good luck and fertility, blue symbolises wisdom, white represents new beginnings, orange stands for success, silver signifies strength, and gold symbolises fortune.

While the tradition of wearing wedding symbols daily has diminished in modern times, with women now opting for trendier designs for everyday wear, bangles remain an essential part of Indian wedding traditions, adorning the wrists of brides and signifying their new marital status.

The significance of nose rings

Nose rings, or naths, are one of the most distinctive items of Indian bridal jewellery. They come in a range of sizes and add undeniable flair to a bride's look. But they are more than just a fashion statement; they are steeped in history and cultural significance.

The tradition of wearing a nose ring dates back to ancient times, when it was believed that nose rings would prevent evil spirits from entering the body through the nose. In Hindu culture, the nose ring is a symbol of being married. It is believed that a girl should only start wearing a nath on her wedding day and continue to wear it until she is married.

The bridal nose ring is also considered a way of paying respect to the Hindu goddess of marriage, Devi Parvati, so that the couple is blessed with prosperity and good luck. In Ayurvedic sciences, it is further believed that piercing the nose on or near a particular node on the nostril can give relief to pain during menstruation. Another theory suggests that piercing the left nostril can reduce pain during childbirth, as the nerves on that side are believed to connect to the female reproductive organs.

In addition to its religious and health significance, the nose ring also holds cultural importance. In ancient Hindu texts, it is written that a woman's beauty is incomplete without the adornment of a nose ring. The nose ring is also said to symbolise a woman's marriageable status and her husband's wealth. In the past, a woman's marital status was determined by her husband's caste, and a nose ring would symbolise that she was married to a man of a higher caste.

Today, the tradition continues, and many Indian brides still wear a nose ring on their wedding day to honour their culture and heritage and bring good luck to their new lives as married women.

Frequently asked questions