George Boyle
The right underskirt can significantly alter the appearance and feel of a wedding dress. It can enhance and support the shape of the gown, create a defined waist and hipline, and add fairytale volume. Underskirts can also help maintain the shape of the dress throughout the day, keeping the layers of fabric away from the legs for added comfort and mobility. Bridal hoops, or petticoats, are designed to sit under the dress to give it its intended perfect shape and silhouette. However, not all wedding dresses need an underskirt, and adding one can change the length of the dress. This article will provide a guide on how to make an underskirt for a wedding dress.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Enhance and support the shape of the wedding dress, creating a defined waist and hipline, and giving skirts a fairytale volume |
| Fabric | Tulle, crinoline, or other net fabrics that are harder than tulle |
| Amount of Fabric | 4 to 5 yards (3.7 to 4.6 meters) for most petticoats |
| Style | A-Line, Fishtail, or Ballgown |
| Hoop Shape | A-shape |
| Number of Hoops | One |
| Benefits | Adds volume, improves mobility, keeps layers of fabric away from legs, helps maintain shape of the dress |
| Considerations | The fabric of the dress skirt, the width of the skirt, the length of the dress, the type and shape of the hoop |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right underskirt fabric
The choice of underskirt fabric depends on the style of your wedding dress and the silhouette you wish to achieve. Here are some factors to consider when choosing the right fabric for your underskirt:
Fabric Type
The most commonly used fabrics for underskirts are tulle and crinoline. Tulle is a soft, fine netting that adds volume and fluffiness to the gown. Crinoline, on the other hand, is a stiff material made from horsehair and cotton or linen, traditionally used in the past to create structured petticoats. Nowadays, you can also find net fabrics that are harder than tulle to create the desired volume.
Volume and Shape
If you desire a full and voluminous skirt, multiple layers of tulle or other net fabrics can be used to create a dramatic, gravity-defying silhouette. However, keep in mind that the width of your dress skirt will limit the amount of volume you can add. Adding too much volume can create a balloon-like effect, causing the fabric to fall outward instead of straight down.
Hoop or No Hoop
Underskirts with hoops, also known as bridal hoops or petticoats, are designed to hold the weight of the skirt and create the intended silhouette. Hoops can be helpful if you want to prevent the layers of the skirt from wrapping around your legs or curling under your feet. However, not all dresses require a hoop. If your dress has a slit or is made from crepe, it is advisable to avoid a hoop. Additionally, some brides prefer to remove the underskirt after the wedding ceremony to feel more comfortable during the reception, so consider whether you want to deal with the potential change in dress length.
Comfort and Mobility
Underskirts can provide more mobility and comfort by lifting the layers of fabric away from your legs, allowing you to move and dance more freely. This is especially important if you plan to wear a large, voluminous skirt.
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How to add volume to your wedding dress
Adding volume to your wedding dress can help you achieve that princess feeling on your special day. Here are some tips on how to add volume to your wedding dress using an underskirt or petticoat:
Firstly, not all wedding dresses are compatible with an underskirt or petticoat. If your dress is a straight or column style, you won't need an underskirt. The fabric of your dress will also determine if you can add volume. As you add volume underneath, the dress fabric will fall outward, creating a balloon-like effect. So, consider the width of your dress skirt and how this will change when you add volume.
If you are set on adding volume, a petticoat or underskirt is an additional layer of fabric worn under your dress to add volume and shape to the skirt. Traditionally, these were made from stiff crinoline, a material made of horsehair and cotton or linen. Today, multiple layers of tulle fabric are often used to create a very fluffy, poofy silhouette. Tulle is a good option for adding volume as it is a soft fabric that can be easily layered. You will need 4 to 5 yards of tulle or crinoline for a full petticoat.
Another option is to use a hoop skirt, which is designed to sit under your dress and hold the weight of the skirt, maintaining the intended silhouette. A hoop can also help to prevent the layers of the dress from wrapping around your legs. However, be aware that adding a hoop later may make your dress too short, so it is important to decide on wearing a hoop before your fittings.
Some brides choose to remove their underskirt for the wedding reception to make their dress more comfortable for dancing. However, doing so will significantly change the length of your dress, making it much longer. So, if you plan to remove your underskirt, consider changing into a taller heel to accommodate the extra length.
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The benefits of wearing a hoop underskirt
While not all wedding dresses require an underskirt, there are several benefits to wearing a hoop underskirt.
Firstly, a hoop underskirt can significantly enhance the appearance of your wedding dress by supporting and shaping the gown. It can also create a defined waist and hipline, emphasising an hourglass figure. The right underskirt will help to hold the weight of the dress, maintaining its shape throughout the day and ensuring that the bride feels comfortable. This is particularly beneficial for dresses with many layers of fabric, as the hoop will keep the layers away from the legs, allowing the bride to walk and dance without restriction.
Secondly, a hoop underskirt can add volume to the skirt, creating a dramatic, fairytale-like silhouette. This is especially effective for A-line dresses, ball gowns, and princess silhouettes. For slimmer dresses, a hoop can be useful in smoothing out the silhouette and creating the illusion of a perfect figure without the need for uncomfortable shapewear.
Additionally, a hoop underskirt can provide structure and definition to the skirt, ensuring that it sits as intended and does not become misshapen or tangled between the legs. This is especially important for fishtail or mermaid-style dresses, where the "tail" of the dress needs to be held in shape.
Finally, a hoop underskirt can help to keep the bride cool, as it allows air to circulate and prevents the layers of fabric from clinging to the body.
In summary, a hoop underskirt can transform the look and feel of a wedding dress, providing shape, volume, and structure while also ensuring the bride's comfort and ease of movement throughout the day.
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How to make a rolled hem
A rolled hem is a type of hem finish that is usually used on lightweight and delicate fabrics, resulting in a very small and sleek hem. It is often used for gowns and skirts. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to create a rolled hem for an underskirt of a wedding dress:
Preparation
Before you begin hemming, it is important to prepare your project. Start by steaming or pressing your underskirt to ensure that there are no wrinkles, as they can impact the evenness of your hem. If your underskirt is made of a bias-cut fabric, hang it overnight before marking or cutting the hem. This is because bias-cut garments need time to stretch out and settle into their final position.
Marking the Hem
When marking the hem, it is ideal to have someone assist you. Stand up straight in your underskirt and ask your helper to measure from the ground to your desired hem length using a yardstick or hem gauge. They should mark this measurement all around the hem to ensure that it is perfectly even, regardless of any uneven hips or spinal curves.
Sewing the Rolled Hem
There are several ways to sew a rolled hem. You can use a sewing machine with or without a special presser foot, also known as a rolled hem foot, or you can sew it by hand. Using a rolled hem foot is considered the fastest and easiest method, but it may require some practice and individual purchase as it is not included with most machines. To use a rolled hem foot, attach it to your machine and press the raw edge of your fabric to the wrong side by 1/8 inch, and then press it in again by another 1/8 inch.
If you are sewing by hand or without a rolled hem foot, the process is similar. Press or iron the raw edge of the fabric to the wrong side by a very narrow amount, and then press it in again, hiding the raw edge inside the hem. This will result in a clean and professional finish.
Additional Tips
When marking the hem, it is important to consider the shoes you plan to wear with the underskirt to ensure the desired length. Additionally, give yourself some time when hemming, as it is not a simple task. Stand on a tall surface, such as a box or table, wearing the intended shoes, and pin the hem layer by layer, checking with a ruler or measuring tape to ensure evenness.
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How to decide if you need an underskirt
There are several factors to consider when deciding whether to wear an underskirt with your wedding dress. Firstly, the style and shape of your gown are important determinants. Straight or column dresses, for instance, typically do not require an underskirt. Dresses with a thigh slit or those made from crepe fabric also generally do not pair well with underskirts, as they are meant to showcase a flash of thigh or leg rather than a visible underskirt. Additionally, crepe is a heavy-draping fabric that often clings to the body, making it difficult to conceal an underskirt.
If your dress already has multiple stiff net layers at the bottom that provide sufficient volume and mobility, you may not need an underskirt. However, if your dress has a more natural, body-hugging drape, an underskirt might be beneficial to create the full-skirted look the designer intended. Shorter wedding dresses, such as tea-length or knee-length styles, often benefit from an underskirt to achieve a full and fluffy retro silhouette.
Underskirts can also enhance your comfort and confidence on your wedding day. They can help smoothen and define your waist and hipline, hide any problem areas, and provide extra coverage and support. If you're concerned about your dress slipping or moving around, an underskirt can keep it in place, especially with lightweight or sheer dresses. Additionally, underskirts can provide warmth for outdoor or spring/autumn weddings and protect your dress from dirt and dust.
Finally, underskirts can help maintain the shape of your dress throughout the day, ensuring it remains flawless. They can also improve the appearance of your dress in photographs by reducing rumpling and enhancing the skirt's volume.
When deciding on an underskirt, it's essential to choose the right style, size, and colour to complement your dress. A bridal consultant or seamstress can provide valuable expertise in selecting and fitting the ideal underskirt for your gown.
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Frequently asked questions
Not all wedding dresses need an underskirt. If your dress is a straight or column dress, you do not need an underskirt. However, if you want to add volume to your dress, an underskirt can help achieve that.
The type of underskirt you need depends on the style and shape of your gown. A bridal hoop or petticoat is designed to sit under the dress to give it the perfect shape and hold the weight of the skirt. A hoop also prevents the layers from wrapping around your legs.
Purchase 4 to 5 yards (3.7 to 4.6 meters) of tulle or crinoline. For most petticoats, this should be sufficient. You can also use multiple layers of tulle fabric as underskirts to create a fluffy, poofy silhouette.
