Creating An Underbustle For Your Wedding Gown

A wedding dress bustle is a way to secure the train, or any extra fabric, off the ground and into the back of the dress to prevent it from dragging on the floor. Wedding dresses don't usually come with a bustle, but they can be added by a seamstress. There are several types of bustles, including the American or over-bustle, the French or under-bustle, the wrist bustle, and the Austrian bustle. The type of bustle chosen will depend on the style of the dress, with factors such as the weight of the fabric, the length of the train, and the desired look needing to be considered.

Choosing the right style of underbustle

When it comes to choosing the right style of underbustle for your wedding gown, there are a few factors to consider. Firstly, it's important to note that not all underbustles are created equal – they come in various styles, each with its own unique look and level of complexity. The right underbustle for you will depend on the silhouette and construction of your gown, as well as your personal preferences. Here are some of the most common types of underbustles to help you make an informed decision:

French Bustle (Under Bustle)

The French bustle, also known as the Victorian bustle, is a popular choice for gowns with a natural waistline. This style is the opposite of the American bustle, as it tucks the train under the silhouette instead of over it. Ribbons or hooks are used to connect and secure the fabric, creating a subtle two-layer hem with understated elegance. This type of underbustle is perfect for A-line and mermaid gowns, but it can be more challenging to execute than other styles, so be sure to have your bridal party on hand to help.

Regular Bustle (Traditional Bustle)

If you're looking for a more discreet option, the regular bustle might be the right choice for you. This style folds the end of the train under the back of the dress, creating the appearance of a bubble hem and a fuller skirt. It's often unnoticeable to others, giving the impression that your dress is simply a full skirt without a train. The regular bustle works best with skirts that are full but don't have too much tulle, as the fabric needs to fall naturally when bustled.

Waterfall Bustle

The waterfall bustle is a variation of the fundamental underbustle style, featuring multiple rows of bustles to create a romantic and gentle "waterfall" effect. This style is perfect for dresses with long trains or intricate details like appliques on the back of the skirt. It adds shape and detail to the back of the gown, and some brides even choose to have their gowns permanently bustled in this manner.

Ballroom Bustle

The ballroom bustle is a versatile option that works with most silhouettes. It completely hides the train, giving the illusion of an untouched, floor-length gown. This style is achieved by adding multiple points under the dress for the train to attach to, resulting in a seamless and elegant finish.

When deciding on the right underbustle style for your wedding gown, it's essential to consider the fabric, silhouette, and any unique details of your dress. Be sure to consult with a seamstress or bridal stylist who can recommend the best option for your specific gown. Additionally, don't forget to assign someone to help you with bustling your dress on your big day and have them attend a fitting to learn the process beforehand.

How to make a French bustle

A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a stunning option for a wedding gown. This bustle technique involves tucking the train of the gown under itself, creating an understated two-layer hem with added design at the back. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to make a French bustle:

Step 1: Measure the Seam

Start by measuring the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. These measurements will help determine the placement of the bustle.

Step 2: Pin the Waistline Seam and Train

Lift the centre back seam of the train and position it against the centre of the waistline at the base of the bodice. Adjust the fold so that the train is slightly off the floor, about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Pin the train to the waistline seam to hold it in place.

Step 3: Fold and Pin the Train

Lift the sides of the train off the floor, about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, and fold and pin them along each side of the back seam. Continue folding and pinning the train as needed to lift the entire train off the floor.

Step 4: Attach the Buttons or Hooks

To secure the bustle, you will need to attach buttons or hooks along the waistline at the pin marks. Stitch them securely, and consider adding a small piece of interfacing underneath each one for reinforcement.

Step 5: Make the Button Loops

Use strong thread to create loops that will fasten onto the buttons or hooks. Place a small piece of interfacing on the top side of the train where you want the loop to be. Insert the needle next to the seam line and pull it through the interfacing and train. Make a small backstitch and pull the thread through to create a loop. Repeat this process until you have a loop big enough to fit the button or hook. Secure the thread with several back stitches.

Step 6: Bustle the Dress

Once all the loops are in place, fasten them to the buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. You can also add more loops and buttons for multiple pickup points, creating extra flair and dimension.

A French bustle can be a bit more complex than other types of bustles, but it is a beautiful option for a wedding gown, especially for gowns with long trains or heavier fabrics. It is important to give yourself enough time and practice to perfect the bustle before the wedding day.

How to make a Victorian bustle

A Victorian bustle, also known as a French bustle or an underbustle, is a type of bustle that involves tucking the train of the gown underneath the silhouette. This is achieved by using hooks to catch the train and ribbons to connect and secure the fabric. The ribbons can have multiple pick-up points for added flair.

To create a Victorian bustle, follow these steps:

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric and Measurements

Before you begin, it is important to have the right tools and measurements. You will need a needle and thread, as well as ribbons or ties that complement the colour of the gown. Measure the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.

Step 2: Attach the Ribbons or Ties

Based on your measurements, attach the ribbons or ties to the inside of the skirt, almost all the way up to the waist. The position of these attachments will depend on where you want the bustle puff on the back of the skirt. Remember that the top of the puffy area will be where you attach the ribbons or ties. If you plan to have multiple points of attachment, attach several ribbons or ties at the top inside of the skirt.

Step 3: Secure the Train

Attach another set of ribbons or ties to the underside of the skirt, further down from the first set. Ensure that these are high enough to hold the skirt off the ground but far enough away from the first set to create a pleasant puffy area when tied together. You may need more than one set, depending on the length of your train. When using multiple ribbons or ties, consider using different colours to easily identify which ones go together. Alternatively, you can number the ends so that they correspond with their matching pair.

Step 4: Fasten the Ribbons or Ties

Fasten the two sets of ribbons or ties together and ensure they are securely tied. Fluff the back of the dress to achieve the desired look. If you have multiple sets, ensure they are connected to the correct corresponding pair. It is important to have someone help you with this type of bustle, so assign someone to assist you on your wedding day.

Step 5: Practice and Adjust

Practise bustling the gown until you are comfortable with the process. You will normally bustle the skirt between the wedding and the reception, so it is helpful to have your designated assistant attend your dress fittings to learn how to properly bustle the dress. This person is usually the maid of honour or another member of the bridal party.

Tips:

• A Victorian bustle is perfect for dresses with a long train or a lot of detail, such as an applique on the back of the skirt.
• Consider permanently bustling the gown in the Victorian style if you want to give the back of the dress more body and detail.
• Choose a more secure bustle with more points of attachment if you intend to dance vigorously at your wedding, as this will provide more support and can bear more weight.

How to make a wrist bustle

A wrist bustle is one of the easiest bustle styles to create. It involves adding a simple loop to the end of the wedding dress train, which can be worn around the bride's wrist. This bustle style is ideal for lightweight trains, as heavier trains may be too cumbersome to carry and may inhibit the bride's ability to walk and dance.

To make a wrist bustle, follow these steps:

• Measure the length of the train: Determine the desired length of the train when it is bustled. Mark this point on the train with a pin.
• Create the loop: Cut a piece of narrow ribbon or fabric, approximately 15-20 inches long. Fold it in half and stitch it securely to the underside of the dress's train, forming a loop. Ensure that the loop is strong enough to support the weight of the train.
• Attach the loop to the wrist: You can create a wristband using a piece of ribbon or fabric that coordinates with the dress. Sew the loop to the wristband, ensuring that it is sturdy and comfortable to wear. Alternatively, you can use a bracelet or decorative wrist cuff as the base for the loop.
• Adjust the train: Once the loop is attached to the wrist, adjust the folds of the train to create a pleasing shape. You may need to add additional loops or fasteners to distribute the weight of the train evenly and create a secure bustle.
• Practice walking and dancing: Before the wedding, practice walking and dancing with the wrist bustle in place to ensure that the bride is comfortable and that the train does not inhibit her movement.
• Assign a helper: On the wedding day, assign a trusted person, such as a bridesmaid or family member, to assist the bride with the wrist bustle. They should be familiar with how to attach and adjust the bustle.

A wrist bustle is a simple and elegant solution for managing a wedding gown train. It is important to ensure that the loop and fasteners are secure and comfortable, allowing the bride to move freely during her special day.

How to make an underbustle with a seamstress

A wedding dress bustle is a way of securing the train of a wedding dress so that it doesn't drag on the floor. This is important as it prevents the dress from getting dirty and also makes it easier for the bride to move around. There are several different types of bustles, each with its own unique look, but they all serve the same purpose.

Step 1: Understand the Underbustle

The underbustle, or French bustle, is created by tucking the train of the dress underneath itself. This results in an understated, two-layer hem that adds design to the back of the dress. This type of bustle works well with mermaid and fit-and-flare silhouettes.

Step 2: Consult a Seamstress

Creating a bustle is a complex task that requires skill and experience. Partner with a seamstress who has expertise in tailoring and adding bustles to wedding dresses. They will be able to advise on the best type of bustle for your specific dress.

Step 3: Measure and Mark the Train

With the help of your seamstress, measure the centre back seam of the train from the waist to the floor. Then, measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the place between these two distances with a pin. This will be your reference point for the bustle.

Step 4: Pin the Waistline Seam and Train

Lift the centre back seam at the pin mark and position it against the centre of the waistline. Adjust the fold so that the train is slightly off the floor. Pin the train to the waistline seam to secure it in place.

Step 5: Create the Ties

Remove the pins and attach a length of narrow grosgrain ribbon (approximately 15 inches) to the waistline of the dress, using the pin marks as a guide. Sew the ribbon securely into the waistline seam.

Step 6: Make the Loops

Cut the ribbon into 2-inch pieces and fold them in half. Stitch these loops to the underside of the dress train, reinforcing them with interfacing or by attaching them to the seam allowances. Position the loops below each pin mark.

Step 7: Bustle the Dress

Attach each ribbon to its corresponding loop by tying a double bow. Adjust and plump up the fabric to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.

Step 8: Practise the Bustle

Before the wedding, it is important to practise bustling the dress. The seamstress should demonstrate the process to the bride or a designated helper (such as a bridesmaid) so that they can learn how to do it. It is also a good idea to take notes or a video of the process for future reference.

Frequently asked questions