Creating A Wedding Ring Quilt: Templates And Techniques

Wedding ring quilts are a complex project that requires careful attention. There are several templates available to help quilters with this process, with some templates coming with instructions for alternative patterns, and others with fully illustrated step-by-step instructions. Some templates are designed to work with specific patterns, such as Judy Niemeyer's double wedding ring patterns, while others offer more flexibility. It is important to carefully review the features and instructions of each template set to ensure it aligns with your specific needs and requirements.

Using acrylic templates

Acrylic templates are often sold with comprehensive instruction booklets that include full-colour graphics, fabric selection help, and yardage charts. These booklets provide step-by-step instructions for creating different variations of the double wedding ring quilt, such as the scrap variation, seamless arc variation, and planned variation. The booklets also offer tips and tricks for sewing curves and adding finishing touches.

Some sets include a large melon-shaped template for specific patterns. The templates usually have a 1/4" seam allowance, and some even have holes to help with matching seams and marking stitch starting and ending points.

Acrylic templates are highly regarded by customers for their ease of use, quality, and value for money. The transparent and non-slip nature of the templates makes cutting fabric quick and accurate. The accompanying instructions are also praised for being thorough, well-written, and suitable for beginners.

Following step-by-step instructions

Making a wedding ring quilt is a complex project that requires careful attention and is not recommended for beginners. Here are the steps you can follow to create your own wedding ring quilt:

Gather Your Materials and Templates:

Start by purchasing or downloading a wedding ring quilt template. Some popular options include the Marti Michell Double Wedding Ring Template, Creative Grids Double Wedding Ring Templates by Judy Niemeyer, and the Quilting from the Heartland Double Wedding Ring Book and Template Set by Shar. These templates typically include multiple acrylic pieces of different shapes and sizes, as well as instructions and yardage requirements.

Prepare Your Fabric:

Choose your fabric and cut out the pieces according to the template instructions. Ensure that your fabric strips and squares are of the correct size, as specified in the template instructions. You may need to trim the foundations or make adjustments to ensure an accurate fit.

Mark Match Points:

Using a see-through acrylic ruler, mark match points on both the template and the fabric pieces. Make crosshairs in each corner by drawing a short line a quarter of an inch from each raw edge. For the center match point, fold the template and fabric pieces lengthwise and widthwise, then mark a quarter of an inch from the edge in the middle of each side.

Sew the Pieces Together:

Line up the match points on the template and fabric pieces, pinning them in place. Stitch along the match points, ensuring that the seams are correctly aligned. This process will involve sewing together various arcs, squares, and other shapes, depending on your chosen template and quilt design.

Assemble the Quilt Top:

Continue sewing the pieces together according to the template instructions until you have completed the desired number of rings for your quilt size. For a king-size quilt, you will typically need 36 rings. Arrange and sew the rings together to form the quilt top.

Finish the Quilt:

Finally, add any desired borders, and assemble the quilt layers, including the backing, batting, and binding. You may refer to the template instructions or other quilting resources for guidance on quilting and binding techniques to finish your wedding ring quilt.

Remember to take your time, follow the specific instructions provided with your chosen template, and reach out for help if needed. Happy quilting!

Making a scrap quilt

Gather your scraps

Pull out all of your scraps and sew them together until you have eight rectangles that are at least 4” wide by 10” tall. Don't worry about completely straight edges—in fact, using scraps that are a variety of widths and sewing them in different directions will lead to a more interesting quilt. Use a smaller stitch length here to keep the pieces from unraveling too much when you sew the block together.

Press seams

Press all the seams open to make it easier to run the scrappy pieces through your fabric cutter.

Cut out scrappy pieces

Run the scrappy pieces through your fabric cutter, no more than two at a time, to cut out the shape needed for your quilt. You can then use any remaining scraps to create new scrappy rectangles.

Cut out remaining pieces

Cut out all the remaining pieces for the quilt, using background fabric for some pieces, and a coordinating fabric for the others. You can also go scrappy here or use a variety of colors if you wish.

Lay out the block pieces

Spend some time laying out the pieces to create a look that you like, making sure that you're happy with the color and structure balance in your block.

Sew the block together

Sew the block together, using the Double Wedding Ring instructions provided with the die set.

Make more blocks and assemble the quilt

Make more blocks until you have enough for the size quilt you are making, then sew them all together. Alternatively, you could make just a few blocks and use them for a tote bag, placemats, a table runner, or a throw pillow.

Tips for scrappy improv quilts

• Stick to a color palette to prevent the scraps from overwhelming the quilt.
• Only make one element scrappy, so that the eye has some resting space in the solid fabrics.
• Vary your scrap sizes for a more interesting and less homogeneous look.

Using a rotary cutter

The Marti Michell Double Wedding Ring Template set is another option, which includes seven full-sized template pieces that finish at a 17" circle. This set also comes with instructions for alternative patterns and includes the large melon shape that is needed for some designs.

When using a rotary cutter, it is important to prioritize safety. Always cut away from yourself and keep your fingers away from the blade. Use a cutting mat to protect your work surface and ensure that your cutter is sharp and in good condition.

Some quilters also recommend using a revolving cutting mat with the Creative Grids template set to make the process easier. You can also add non-slip stickers to your templates to prevent them from sliding around on the fabric.

With the right tools and careful cutting, you'll be well on your way to creating a beautiful wedding ring quilt!

Binding the quilt

Binding a quilt is the final step in finishing your quilt. Before you bind, you need to attach the front and back, with batting in between. You can do this by hand or by machine.

Step 1: Calculate and cut your binding strips

Measure the perimeter of your quilt by adding the length and width of your quilt and multiplying that by 2. Then add an extra 10″ to deal with seams and corners. Next, take this measurement and divide it by 40. This will tell you the number of strips you will need to cut, with 40″ of usable fabric. Cut your strips at 2 1/4″ wide, or wider if you prefer more of the binding to show.

Step 2: Sew the binding into a continuous length

Place two strips with right sides together at a 90-degree angle. Sew them together at a 45-degree angle across the diagonal. Sewing mitered seams like this helps distribute the bulk. If needed, you can draw a straight line across the diagonal or press one of the ends along the diagonal to form a sewing line. Trim the starting edge of your binding at a 45-degree angle, too.

Step 3: Press the binding

Press the binding wrong sides together along the entire length.

Step 4: Attach the binding to the quilt

Trim off the excess backing and batting before you attach your binding. Starting at least 6″ – 8″ away from the corner, place your binding on the front side of the quilt and leave a tail of about 6″ – 8″. Line up the open binding ends with the edge of your quilt. The folded edge should be facing toward the quilt. Stitch the binding onto the front of the quilt with 1/4″ seam allowance. When you get to a corner, stop stitching 1/4″ away from the corner and sew off the corner. Take the quilt off the machine and fold the binding up and away from the quilt. Keep the edge of the binding in line with the edge of the quilt. Bring the binding back down, creating a tuck of fabric underneath. This will form the miter on the front of the quilt. Starting from the edge of the quilt, stitch the next side of binding down until you reach the next corner and repeat this process for all four corners. Leave an ending tail of 6″ – 8″ of binding. Trim off the excess, leaving a few inches of overlap to work with. Open up the end of the binding and place the beginning tail inside it. Using the cut and angled end as a guide, lightly mark a line right up next to it. Then cut 1/2″ away from this measurement to account for seam allowances on both ends. Put the two tail ends right sides together, and sew with 1/4″ seam to complete the continuous loop of binding. Close up the binding and finish stitching it down on the front of the quilt.

Step 5: Secure with clips

Secure the binding to the back of the quilt with clips before you begin hand-stitching it down. Pins or hair clips work well, too.

Step 6: Hand-stitch the binding on back

Thread several needles using the same thread you used to sew on the binding. Wrap the thread around the needle three times and pull it to the end of your thread to create a quilter’s knot. You can double your thread for extra strength and durability. Tuck the knot underneath the binding, then grab a bite of the backing of the quilt and then a bite of the binding to complete each stitch. Continue forming each stitch by bringing the needle in behind each previous stitch and pushing it out ahead of the last stitch. Pull the thread slightly taut as you go. When you get to the corners, be sure to sew them closed. Take a few stitches on the back to close the miter. Push the needle through to the front, stitch the front of the miter closed, then push the needle to the back again.

Frequently asked questions