Creating A Wedding Ring With Chainmaille: A Unique Guide

Chainmail rings are a great DIY project for anyone interested in making their own jewellery. Chainmail is made from metal rings that are joined together in a pattern to form a protective mesh. The art of making chainmail can be used to create decorative elements such as jewellery. The process of making a chainmail ring involves coiling wire around a rod, cutting the coil into individual rings, and then joining the rings together. The type of wire and rod used will depend on the specific application and desired ring size. For example, chainmail rings for jewellery will require thinner wire with a non-reactive coating, while chainmail armour is typically made from steel wire. When joining the rings, there are three main methods: butted, riveted, or welded. Butted rings are the easiest to make and simply involve cutting the coil in a straight line and bending the ends together. Riveted rings involve overlapping the ends of the coil, hammering them flat, and inserting a small piece of wire. Welded rings are similar to butted rings but require the additional step of welding the ends together using a high-current electric welder. With the right tools and materials, anyone can make their own chainmail rings for a unique and personalised piece of jewellery, such as a wedding ring.

Choosing the right materials for your ring

Type of Metal

The type of metal you choose will impact the strength, durability, and overall appearance of your ring. Common metals used for chainmaille include steel, aluminium, titanium, copper, and gold. Each metal has unique properties that make it suitable for different purposes:

• Steel is a strong option for butted or riveted rings, but regular steel requires maintenance to prevent rusting. Stainless steel or galvanised steel are good alternatives.
• Titanium is an excellent choice for lightweight and incredibly strong rings. It is similar in weight to aluminium but offers superior strength, making it ideal for long-lasting chainmaille.
• Aluminium is lightweight and inexpensive, making it a popular choice for cosplay and costuming. However, it is softer and more prone to bending than other metals.
• Copper is beautiful but relatively soft and heavy. It is often used for decorative trimming rather than the main structure of the chainmaille.
• Gold is extremely soft, heavy, and expensive. Anodised aluminium or brass can be used to achieve a similar appearance.

Ring and Wire Size

The size of your rings and the thickness of your wire are important considerations. Smaller rings provide better flexibility and comfort but require more time and patience to work with. Larger rings, on the other hand, may require thicker wire to maintain their strength. Common ring sizes for butted chainmaille include 1/4" (6mm), 5/16" (8mm), and 3/8" (9.5mm). For these ring sizes, the recommended wire thickness ranges from 12-gauge to 18-gauge, with larger rings typically requiring thicker wire.

Colour and Corrosion Considerations

If you want to add colour to your chainmaille, consider using materials like anodised aluminium, titanium, or niobium, which can be artificially coloured. Additionally, some metals, such as iron and steel, can be coated with nickel or zinc to prevent corrosion. However, be cautious when working with galvanised steel, as zinc has a low evaporation point and can be toxic if heated or cut with high-speed tools.

Determining the ring/wire size

There are three main ring sizes when it comes to making butted chainmail. The sizes are differentiated by their inner diameter, which is the distance between the inside edges of the ring. The ring size you choose will determine the wire thickness you can use. The smaller the ring, the thinner the wire should be.

The smallest ring size you would typically want to go for is 1/4" (6mm). This ring size is better for achieving a comfortable fit as it can form to the body more easily. However, it requires a lot of patience as you will need a lot of rings. For this ring size, it is recommended to use 16-18 gauge wire.

The middle ring size is 5/16" (8mm). This is generally considered the sweet spot as it allows you to use wire as thin as 16 gauge without worrying about the chainmail falling apart. For this ring size, it is recommended to use 14-16 gauge wire.

The largest ring size you can typically make using a drill and steel rod to coil the wire around is 3/8" (9.5mm). For this ring size, it is recommended to use 12-14 gauge wire. However, you could use 16-gauge wire, but the chainmail may eventually fall apart under its own weight.

A good rule of thumb is that as the ring size increases, the strength of the wire decreases. Therefore, larger rings require thicker wire to maintain durability.

When determining the ring/wire size, it is also important to consider the purpose of the chainmail. For example, aluminium is a good choice for costuming and cosplay as it is lightweight and inexpensive. On the other hand, titanium is an excellent choice for those seeking durability and strength, resembling the mythical Mithril armour from Lord of the Rings or D&D.

Coiling the wire

Begin by acquiring the appropriate wire for your ring. For a chainmaille wedding ring, you'll typically want to use a relatively thin and flexible wire that can be easily manipulated into intricate patterns. Precious metal wires such as gold, silver, or platinum are common choices for wedding rings due to their durability and inherent beauty. Ensure the wire is of a high quality to guarantee the longevity of your finished piece.

Once you have your wire, it's time to start coiling. Create a small loop at one end of the wire – this will serve as the base of your coil and should be tight and secure. You can use jewelry pliers to help you achieve a precise and firm loop. The size of this initial loop will depend on the desired scale of your chainmaille pattern; for a wedding ring, a small, delicate loop is usually preferable.

Grip the loop with your pliers and begin wrapping the wire around its base in a controlled and consistent manner. Take care to keep the coils tight and close together, ensuring there are no gaps or spaces between them. The consistency of your coiling is essential to achieving a uniform and attractive final product. Continue coiling the wire around itself, building up a small, tightly wound spiral. Use your pliers to guide the wire and maintain tension, which will help create a neat and precise coil.

As you coil, pay attention to the overall shape and size of the spiral. For a wedding ring, you'll want a consistent width throughout, so ensure that your coils are neither too tight nor too loose. Adjust the tension on the wire as needed to achieve the desired effect. If you're aiming for a wider ring, you can adjust the spacing of your coils to create a more open and expansive spiral, but always ensure the coils remain close and tight for a durable and secure ring.

Once you've reached the desired length for your coil, cut the wire with wire cutters, leaving a small tail. Secure this tail by tucking it into the existing coils, using your pliers to guide and tighten it into place. This ensures the end of the wire doesn't unravel or poke out, creating a smooth and comfortable finish for the wearer.

With your wire coiled, you've completed one of the most important steps in creating a chainmaille wedding ring. The consistency and precision of your coiled wire will contribute to the overall quality and beauty of the finished piece. From here, you can begin to link and weave your coils together to create the intricate patterns that characterize chainmaille jewelry.

Cutting the rings

Now that you have a long coil of wire, you need to cut it into individual springs. The number of rings you'll need will depend on the size of your chainmail project. For example, a chainmail shirt will require about 13,000 rings.

If you are using steel wire, you will probably need to use bolt cutters. I do not recommend using a high-speed cutting tool unless you have a strong vacuum set up with it. Most steel wire is galvanized to prevent rust, and high-speed cutters can throw zinc dust into the air, which is bad for your health. For softer wires such as copper, gold or silver, you can use simple handheld wire cutters.

When cutting the rings, aim for full, 360-degree rings that are cut evenly. Try to hold your wire cutters at a slight angle to make them easier to cut. If you are worried about the rings flying everywhere or causing injury, put on eye protection and gloves.

Closing the rings

Tools and Techniques for Closing the Rings:

• Pliers: You will need a pair of needle-nose pliers to close the rings. Choose pliers with or without teeth depending on whether you want to avoid scratching the rings.
• Ring-Closing Technique: Avoid the common method of holding the ring with two pliers, one on each side of the opening, and forcing the ends together. This technique is cumbersome and can cause hand strain and blisters. It also risks slipping and misaligning your carefully arranged rings.
• Recommended Technique: Hold the ring with one plier and use the other plier to press and align the two ends together. Give the pliers a small twist to ensure the ends are securely joined.

Tips for Closing the Rings:

• Ring Preparation: Before cutting the rings, pull the coil to open the ring and prepare it for closing. This step ensures the ring is ready for the next stages of your project.
• Cutting Technique: When cutting the rings, use wire cutters or bolt cutters. Hold the cutters at a slight angle for a cleaner cut. Always wear eye protection when cutting to prevent the rings from flying and causing injury.
• Ring Connection: To connect the rings, open one ring with your pliers and thread it through the other rings. Then, close the open ring with your pliers. Remember to twist the ends of the ring away from each other when opening and closing to maintain a round shape.
• Pattern Formation: Arrange the rings in a flat, repeating pattern. Ensure the pattern is symmetrical and evenly spaced.
• Row Formation: To add width to your chainmaille, attach new rows of rings to the side of the existing strip. Continue adding rows until you reach the desired thickness.
• Weave Variation: Experiment with different weaves like the European 4-in-1, European 6-in-1, or Box Chain for more complex and varied designs.

Frequently asked questions