Designing Your Dream Wedding Gown: A Step-By-Step Guide

Making your own wedding dress is a challenging but rewarding endeavour. It requires careful planning, a good understanding of your body type, and a lot of patience. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you create your dream wedding gown:

1. Determine the silhouette: Choose a dress silhouette that flatters your body type and suits your sewing skills. Common silhouettes include A-line, ball gown, empire waist, and mermaid.

2. Choose a colour: While white is traditional, there are many shades to choose from, such as ivory, cream, and stark white. You can also opt for non-traditional colours like red, purple, or blue.

3. Make a sketch: Draw a detailed sketch of your dream dress, including the front and back and any desired details like lace, bows, or rhinestones.

4. Determine the fabric type: Select a fabric that complements your chosen silhouette. Popular options include chiffon, silk, satin, and tulle.

5. Take your measurements: Ask a friend to help with this step. Measure your bust, hips, waist, and the desired dress length. Be sure to wear the undergarments and shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day.

6. Choose a pattern: You can create your own pattern or use a pre-designed one. Pre-designed patterns are easier to work with and usually come with instructions.

7. Sew the dress: Follow the pattern closely and take your time. Consider adding texture to accentuate your curves, and don't forget the vertical princess seam.

8. Make adjustments: Try on your dress and make any necessary adjustments for the perfect fit.

Choosing the right fabric

• Wedding Theme and Venue: The type of fabric you choose should complement the theme and setting of your wedding. For example, if you're having a rustic or farm-style wedding, you might opt for cotton or lace fabrics. On the other hand, if your wedding is more formal, satin and taffeta might be a better choice. Consider the location of your wedding as well. For a beach or outdoor wedding, lightweight and breathable fabrics such as silk or chiffon are ideal.
• Personal Preference: Ultimately, the choice of fabric should align with your personal taste and comfort. If you're aiming for a rustic or vintage theme, lace, cotton, or satin fabrics can create a charming and elegant look. For a more formal event, silk or chiffon can offer a sophisticated and graceful appearance.
• Fabric Properties: Different fabrics have unique properties that should be considered. For instance, silk is a lightweight and breathable natural fiber that is comfortable to wear but can be quite expensive. Satin, on the other hand, has a smooth and shiny finish and is often more affordable than silk. Chiffon is known for its delicate and sheer nature, making it perfect for layering and creating a dreamy, ethereal look.
• Fabric Durability: Keep in mind the durability of the fabric, especially if your dress has intricate details or embellishments. Some fabrics, like chiffon, can be more fragile and prone to snagging or fraying, while others like satin are more durable and can withstand wear and tear.
• Season and Weather: The climate during your wedding will play a significant role in choosing the right fabric. For warm weather weddings, lightweight and breathable fabrics such as chiffon, organza, or silk are excellent choices. In contrast, heavier fabrics like satin or velvet are better suited for cooler temperatures.
• Body Shape and Comfort: Consider your body shape and choose a fabric that flatters your figure. Some fabrics, like chiffon or silk, are known for their fluidity and drape, while others like taffeta or organza have a stiffer texture. Select a fabric that not only looks good but also feels comfortable against your skin.
• Fabric Cost: The cost of the fabric is an important consideration, especially if you're working within a specific budget. Silk, for example, is a luxury fabric and can be more expensive, while polyester or rayon are more affordable alternatives.

Remember, the right fabric will not only enhance the overall appearance of your wedding gown but also ensure your comfort and confidence on your special day. It's advisable to research and familiarize yourself with different fabric options before making your final decision.

Selecting a pattern

If you are a seasoned sewer, you can make your own pattern. However, if this is your first time, it is best to go with a pre-designed pattern. These are created by professionals and come with instructions, making them easier to work with. You can also combine multiple sizes to get the pattern as close to your measurements as possible.

When choosing a pattern, it is important to consider your skill level, the shape of your body, and the type of fabric you will be using. If you are a beginner, opt for a simpler pattern and choose a fabric that is easy to work with, such as silk or chiffon. More advanced sewers can choose a more complex pattern and work with fabrics that are more challenging to sew, like sequinned fabric.

Additionally, consider the silhouette of your dress and the type of fabric that is suitable for it. For example, empire waist gowns look great with flowing fabrics like chiffon or silk, while ball gowns often feature tulle.

Remember to leave about 1.5 inches for seam allowance when cutting your fabric according to the pattern.

Taking measurements

Bust

Measure at the fullest part of your chest while wearing the bra you plan to wear on your wedding day. Do not wear anything on top of the bra. This will ensure the most precise measurement for your wedding gown.

Hips

Stand with your heels together in a relaxed, natural stance. Measure the fullest part of your hips, ensuring you go full circle. This measurement is crucial for ensuring the skirt of your wedding gown fits comfortably and flatteringly.

Waist

Measure your waist at its narrowest point, which is typically about 1" above your belly button. Do not pull in your stomach or tighten the tape measure too much, as this will skew the results. An accurate waist measurement is essential for a well-fitting gown.

Hollow to Hem

This measurement is taken from just above your collarbone to the desired length of your wedding gown. Be sure to account for the shoes you will be wearing on your big day, as this can impact the overall length required.

Taking these measurements accurately will provide the foundation for creating a wedding gown that fits like a dream. It is important to note that you should wear the same undergarments and shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day when taking these measurements, as this will ensure the most precise results.

Making a mock-up

To create a mock-up, you will need to use a cheap fabric such as muslin. Cut out the pattern pieces from the fabric, allowing for a seam allowance, and sew them together. You can then try on the mock-up dress and make any necessary alterations. This process may need to be repeated several times until you are happy with the fit. It is important to have someone help you with this step, as they can ensure the dress fits correctly and can make alterations while you are wearing it. Once you are satisfied with the fit, you can take the mock-up apart and use it as a guide to cut your final fabric.

It is worth noting that creating a mock-up can be a time-consuming process, and it is recommended to start this step well in advance of your wedding. It is also a good idea to practice your sewing skills on smaller projects before attempting to make your wedding gown.

Sewing the dress

Now that you've cut your fabric, it's time to sew your wedding dress. This is the most important part of the process, so take your time and be sure to follow the pattern strictly.

Before you begin, pin the fabric together in the necessary places to ensure that it stays in place. If you want to add texture to the dress to accentuate your body curves, you can fold, bend, and gather the fabric. You can also add pleats to the skirt for extra volume. Remember, the fabric is flat, so you'll need to manipulate it to accommodate the curves of your body.

The majority of wedding dresses have vertical princess seams. These seams go from the top to the bottom of the dress and are essential for creating a one-piece dress. Sew the seams by following the shape that you cut out according to your pattern. Sew all the way to the hem, even if you have extra fabric on the bottom or sides of your dress. It's much easier to take a dress in than to let it out.

Try on the dress and make any necessary adjustments to get the perfect fit. Have a friend help you with this step, as it's difficult to pin the dress accurately by yourself. Make any needed alterations, such as taking in seams or letting them out for a looser fit. Now is also the time to add any embellishments, such as a jewelled belt, lace applique, or rhinestone beads.

Finish the dress by cutting any loose threads and giving it a final press with an iron. Be sure to follow the care instructions provided with the fabric.

Frequently asked questions