Creating A Wedding Ring Box With Paper Craft

how to make a wedding ring box out of paper

If you're looking for a unique way to present your wedding ring, why not try making a ring box out of paper? It's a fun and easy DIY project that can add a personal touch to your special day. In this guide, we'll show you how to create a vintage-style ring box using an old book and some simple crafting techniques. This project is perfect for those who want to incorporate their love of reading into their wedding or want something different to showcase their ring. So, get your creative juices flowing and let's get started on crafting a paper wedding ring box!

Characteristics Values
Difficulty level Medium
Materials required Square piece of paper, card, pencil, ruler, cutting tools, old book, xacto knife, ribbon
Time taken 10 minutes
Size of paper 29.7cm x 29.7cm
Finished box size 7.5 x 3.8 cm

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Choosing the right paper for your origami ring box

The paper you choose for your origami ring box will depend on several factors, including the complexity of your design, the size of the final product, and your level of experience. Here are some tips to help you select the best paper for your project:

Type of Paper

  • Standard Origami Paper (Kami): This is the most common type of origami paper and is perfect for beginners. It is usually white on the back and has a solid color or pattern on the front. It is thin, ranging from 60 to 63 gsm, and comes in various colors and patterns. However, it may crack on very complex models with multiple folds in the same place.
  • Tant Paper: This is a rigid and textured paper that is perfect for modular and origami models. It is unique because it can be creased repeatedly without cracking or breaking, even though it is a dyed-fiber paper. Tant paper is thicker than standard origami paper, ranging from 70 to 80 gsm. It is a great choice for advanced folders working on larger or harder models.
  • Duo-Colored Paper: This paper has a different color on each side, allowing for contrasting or complementary colors in your designs. It is similar to standard origami paper but may be a tiny bit thicker due to the extra layer of ink.
  • Washi Paper: Washi is a traditional Japanese paper that is made by hand using long plant fibers. It is very thin, strong, and durable, and can be used for wet folding. Models folded with washi paper appear more lifelike due to the texture. However, it can be more difficult to fold, especially for complex models, and may be more expensive.
  • Tissue Foil Paper: This paper has a color tissue paper attached to one or both sides of a sheet of aluminum foil. It is one of the easiest types of origami paper to use as it combines the strength and stiffness of foil with the flexibility and color variety of tissue paper. It is thin, around 50 gsm, and comes in large sheets, making it perfect for super complex folding.
  • Chiyogami Paper: Chiyogami is a traditional Japanese paper with a patterned side and a white side. It is thicker and smoother than standard origami paper, usually ranging from 120 to 140 gsm. It is strong and durable but can be more difficult to fold, especially for complex models. It is commonly used for special occasions and smaller models due to its intricate patterns and designs.

Size of Paper

The size of the paper you choose will depend on the complexity of your design and the desired final size of your ring box. For simple models, a smaller size, such as 15x15 cm (6"x6"), is recommended. For intermediate models, a larger size, such as 20x20 cm (8"x8"), is ideal. If you are creating a complex model with detailed folds and creases, opt for an even larger size, such as 30x30 cm (12"x12") or 50x50 cm (20"x20").

Other Considerations

When choosing your origami paper, also consider the texture, color, and weight of the paper. Smoother textures are generally easier to work with for beginners. Choose a color or pattern that suits your design and personal preference. Experiment with different weights of paper to find what works best for you; thinner papers are usually easier to fold, while thicker papers are stronger but may be harder to fold.

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How to cut out a hollow box from a vintage book

To make a wedding ring box out of an old book, you will need the book itself, a ruler, a pencil, an X-Acto knife, and a ribbon.

Firstly, choose a book that has a special meaning to you or your relationship, or one that matches your wedding colour scheme. Next, turn to almost halfway through the book and, on the centre right-hand side, draw a small two-inch box. Using a straightedge and an X-Acto knife, cut along the lines you've drawn. You will need to press down hard and go over each line several times to cut through as many pages as possible. Repeat this step several times to achieve the desired depth for your box.

Once you are happy with the depth, slip a ribbon through the cut-out, ensuring that it goes through all of the pages. Slip the rings onto the ribbon and rest them inside the box. Close the book and tie the ribbon with a bow.

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How to make a box with a hinged lid

Making a paper ring box with a hinged lid is a fun and easy DIY project. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to create a basic hinged lid box:

Planning and Materials

First, decide on the size of your box and gather the necessary materials. You will need paper (for the interior and exterior), bookboard (pieces for the tray, lid, and spine), bookcloth (for the hinge and spine), PVA glue (regular or thick), and some basic tools like a bone folder, brush, and scissors.

Creating the Tray

Start by constructing the tray, which forms the base of your box. Take your bookboard pieces for the tray bottom and sides. Using thick PVA glue, apply a nice bead of glue along the edges of the tray bottom. Use a backstop (a simple structure to push against while gluing) to ensure precise placement.

Place one side piece against the backstop, ensuring it is the correct length. Firmly press the tray bottom against the side piece, making sure the sides go on the outside of the tray bottom for added strength. Hold the pieces together, then use a scrap of bookboard to clean up any excess glue along the seam.

Repeat this process for the opposing side, then move on to the other two sides, applying glue to their edges as well as the tray bottom's long edge. Again, clean up any excess glue, then peel the tray off the work surface and wipe away any remaining glue.

Assembling the Lid

While the tray dries, work on the lid. Gather the remaining bookboard pieces for the lid, bookcloth for the spine and outer lid, and paper for the outer and inner lid. You can also create a spacer (by gluing scraps of bookboard) to ensure a consistent gap between the bookboard and spine.

Begin with the spine piece. Apply PVA glue to the bookboard and press it onto the bookcloth, using guidelines to ensure correct placement. Place this on a scrap paper, apply glue to one long edge, and attach a spacer. Quickly attach one of the bookboard lids, then remove the spacer. Repeat this process for the other lid, then place the assembly under weight to ensure a firm bond.

Next, glue down the flaps. Apply glue to the flap, fold it over, and press it down firmly with a bone folder, forcing the bookcloth into the gaps. Repeat for the second flap, then place the assembly under weight. Check that the tray sits correctly on the bottom lid, with one side flush against the spine, leaving about 1/4" extra on the other three sides.

Finishing the Lid and Tray

Continue by gluing the remaining bookcloth piece to the inside of the spine, ensuring it fits with about 1/4" margins on the top and bottom. Center it, press it down, and use a bone folder to smooth out any creases.

Now, attach the outer paper pieces for the lid, placing them about 1/4" away from the spine edge, leaving about 1" extra on the other sides. Apply glue, line up the paper, and press it down firmly. Weight it down temporarily, then repeat for the other side.

Trim the corners of the cover paper at a 45-degree angle, leaving about 1/4" extra paper at the corners to cover the bookboard. Pre-fold the paper if it's thick, then glue and fold one margin, pinching the corner to create a miter. Repeat for the opposing side, then glue and fold the third side.

Glue the inner lid paper, ensuring the pattern orientation is correct. Place the paper inside the lid, press it down, and use a bone folder to smooth out any creases, especially along the edges. Weight it down and let it dry.

Covering the Tray

For the tray, start with a long side piece. Apply glue, center the tray side, and press it down. Fold up the short sides, refreshing the glue if needed, and ensure they're firmly glued. Pinch the paper at the bottom corners, then trim the corners, leaving about 1/4" away from the corner to ease folding.

Apply glue to the long margin and small tabs, then fold and press them down, smoothing with a bone folder. Repeat this process for the opposite side. For the remaining two sides, simply fold over the top and bottom margins after applying glue, again smoothing with a bone folder.

If your inner tray paper is thick, pre-fold it before gluing. Score the folds with a bone folder and trim any excess paper at the corners. Apply glue to the short sides, place the paper inside the tray, and gently press down, using a bone folder to smooth out any creases. Repeat for the long sides, then glue and place the inner bottom paper, ensuring all edges are glued down.

Final Assembly

Finally, assemble the tray and lids. Use thick PVA glue if possible, as it's easier to control. Carefully line up the tray and lids, ensuring equal margins on all sides. Glue the spine first, weighting down the tray on the bottom lid to keep it in place.

Apply glue along the spine, about 1/2" away from the edges, then fold it up and hold it in place. Clean up any excess glue, let it dry, then weight the box down on its spine.

For the final step, glue the back of the tray to the bottom lid. Apply glue around the edges of the bottom lid, avoiding the 1/4" lip. Also, apply glue lines across the center of the board. Fold the tray onto the lid, fill it with weights, close the lid, and place heavy weights on top. Your hinged lid box is now ready!

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Using ribbon to secure the rings

Materials:

  • Ribbon of your choice (satin or poly satin ribbon works well)
  • Round object such as a mandrel or a wooden/plastic curtain ring
  • Scissors
  • Glue
  • Lighter or matches and a candle (optional)

Step 1: Prepare the Ribbon:

Cut a length of ribbon that is long enough to wrap around your chosen round object with some overlap. The amount of overlap will determine the thickness of your ribbon ring. If you're using a mandrel, wrap the ribbon tightly around it, adding a small amount of glue where the ribbon meets itself. This will ensure that the ring keeps its shape when dried.

Step 2: Secure the Rings:

Now it's time to add the rings! Place your ring/s onto the ribbon-wrapped mandrel or curtain ring. You can secure the rings in place by tying a knot in the ribbon, similar to how you would tie a balloon. Alternatively, you can use a small amount of glue to fix the rings in place. Just be careful not to use too much glue, as you don't want it to come into contact with the actual rings.

Step 3: Finishing Touches:

To finish your ribbon ring, cut the ribbon with scissors, ensuring a straight and smooth edge. Apply a small amount of glue to the cut end and attach it to the rest of the ribbon. Hold it in place with your thumb until the glue dries. You can also use a lighter or candle to "heat seal" the ends of the ribbon and prevent fraying. Pass the ribbon edge quickly through the flame, being careful not to scald the ribbon.

And there you have it! A beautiful and secure way to display your wedding rings in your DIY paper box. Feel free to experiment with different colours and textures of ribbon to match your wedding theme.

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How to make the box the right size for your rings

To make a ring box from paper, you will need a square piece of paper. The size of the paper will depend on the size of the box you want to make. For a 'real-size' box, you will need a piece of paper that is about 20 x 20 cm or less.

If you want to make a box that is 7.5 x 3.8 cm, you will need a piece of paper that is 29.7cm x 29.7cm. This will be your starting point.

First, decide how deep you want your box to be. This will depend on the size of your rings. You don't want to make a box that is too shallow, as the rings may fall out, but you also don't want to make it too deep, as it will be harder to remove the rings.

Once you have decided on the depth of your box, you will need to measure and mark out the sides and bottom of the box on your paper. Be sure to make the bottom of the box wide enough to accommodate your rings comfortably.

After you have marked out the dimensions of your box, you will need to cut and fold the paper along the lines you have drawn. You may need to use a ruler or a straight edge to help you cut straight lines.

Finally, secure the sides of the box with glue or tape to hold them in place. You can also decorate your box with ribbons, stickers, or other embellishments if you wish.

Frequently asked questions

You will need an old book, a ruler, a pencil, an X-acto knife, and a ribbon.

First, choose a book that has special meaning to you or your relationship, or one that matches your wedding colour scheme. Next, turn to halfway through the book and draw a small two-inch box in the centre-right of the page. Using a straight edge and an X-acto knife, cut along the lines you've drawn, pressing down hard and going over each line at least six times. You may need to repeat this step several times to get the desired depth. Slip a ribbon through the cut box, going through all of the pages, and then slip the rings onto the ribbon. Close the book and tie the ribbon with a bow.

For a more 'real' size box, use about 20 x 20 cm or less.

The finished size of the box is 7.5 x 3.8 cm.

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