Creating A Wedding Gown Skirt: A Step-By-Step Guide

Making your own wedding gown skirt can be a challenging but rewarding endeavour. It is important to consider the shape and body size of the wearer when creating the top half of the dress, and to be mindful of the cost of materials and the tediousness of the work. When it comes to the skirt, there are several options to choose from, including a circle skirt, an A-line floor-length tulle skirt, or a hoop skirt. For a circle skirt, you will need to purchase a circle skirt pattern and follow the instructions, using tulle fabric and a fabric fuser to create a ribbon for the waist. For an A-line skirt, you will need multiple layers of tulle and crinoline, cut to make a full circle skirt, with a crinoline underskirt for added volume. A hoop skirt, on the other hand, typically consists of a petticoat with a hoop underskirt, which can be purchased ready-made or made to order.

Choosing the right fabric

• Silk is a popular choice for wedding gowns, as it creates a glamorous and romantic look. It is also comfortable to wear due to its lightweight and breathable nature. Silk comes in various varieties, such as raw silk, and different weights, which will influence the price and feel of the fabric. For summer weddings, opt for lighter silk fabrics, while thicker silks are more suitable for winter.
• Tulle is a netting fabric that can create an ethereal, dreamlike look for your wedding. It is often used playfully to add a flirty flair to a tea-length gown or as an overlay or underlay for a more dramatic bridal look. Tulle is versatile and can be worn at various wedding venues and themes. However, it may not be the most comfortable fabric, as it can be stiff or itchy.
• Lace is a beautiful and intricate fabric that adds romance and sophistication to your wedding gown. It can be used to create a simple silhouette or incorporated into a custom-designed couture-inspired gown. The more expensive the lace, the softer it will feel on your skin. Different types of lace, such as net-backed Alençon or Guipure lace, can be chosen to match your wedding theme, from boho to rustic to formal.
• Organza is a lightweight and sheer material often used for formal wedding gowns. It is not very durable but is beautiful and versatile. Organza is often mistaken for chiffon but is stiffer and more commonly used in high-end gowns. It can be worn in layers or on its own and is perfect for a black-tie-themed wedding.
• Chiffon is a unique fabric option that adds a dreamy and graceful effect to your wedding gown. Wedding dresses are rarely made entirely of chiffon, but bits of chiffon are used to add texture and flow, making the gown look exquisite and sophisticated. Chiffon is ideal for summer weddings as it is lightweight and not too hot. However, it may not be as durable as other fabrics, especially with many embellishments.
• Satin is one of the most popular wedding dress materials, known for its smooth and sleek finish. It is made from silk or polyester (or a blend), with most bridal satin being made entirely from silk. Satin is durable and can be worn in various styles, making it suitable for a wide range of wedding themes. It is also one of the more affordable options when compared to fabrics like taffeta or lace. However, satin may be too structured for casual weddings.

When choosing the right fabric for your wedding gown skirt, consider your wedding theme, venue, and personal preference. For a rustic or farm-style wedding, cotton or lace fabrics may be ideal, while satin and taffeta are better suited for a formal wedding. If your wedding is on the beach or in a park, silk or chiffon are lightweight options to keep you comfortable. Additionally, consider the durability, comfort, and price of the fabric, as well as the amount of fabric needed, as these factors will impact your overall experience and appearance on your special day.

Creating volume with petticoats or crinolines

Petticoats, also known as crinolines, pettiskirts, or slips, are essential for creating the classic princess silhouette that many brides dream of. They have a long history in fashion, dating back to the 19th century, and are used to add structure and volume to skirts and dresses.

To make a wedding dress poofy, you can sew crinoline into the underneath layers of the skirt or wear a whole petticoat underneath the gown. The amount of volume you want to add will depend on where you want the poof to start. For a ball gown, a crinoline or hoop skirt will start higher towards your natural waist, while an A-line petticoat will provide just the right amount of volume for a slim or smaller A-line wedding dress.

Petticoats come in various degrees of fullness, from little to medium to very full, and can be made with soft tulle or have metal hoops for extra volume. If you're looking for extra support, some slips also have built-in corsets or bustiers. For gowns made of light or medium material, a tulle or crinoline petticoat is usually sturdy enough to puff out the skirt. However, if your gown is made of heavy material, you may need a hoop skirt to add the desired volume.

When choosing a petticoat, it's important to consider the silhouette and construction of your wedding gown. A-line and ball gown dresses typically require an underskirt, while fit-and-flare, trumpet, mermaid, and fishtail gowns may need a mid-thigh underskirt to create the flare shape at the bottom. For these tight dresses, the underskirt should end at the knee rather than the waist.

You can purchase petticoats and crinolines in various styles and sizes from bridal shops or online retailers. It's recommended to try on different styles to find the one that achieves your desired look. Keep in mind that tulle or crinoline slips will become even fuller after they are ironed. Additionally, you can have a seamstress add extra tulle to the underskirt of your dress or modify the outside of the skirt to add more volume if needed.

Adding a train

Firstly, you could opt for a detachable train. This is a great option if you want to be able to remove the train for the reception, saving you time and energy. A detachable train can be attached at the waist with a ribbon or belt, or for a seamless look, you could use snaps or buttons. A detachable train gives you the option of two looks in one.

If you want the train to be a permanent fixture, you could add an overskirt with a train. This option, however, may not work for all dresses, especially if you are trying to match a lace fabric.

Another option is to add a Watteau train, which attaches to the shoulders or back of the dress, giving a cape-like feel. This option is lightweight and can be easily removed.

If you are looking for a more cost-effective option, a long veil can give the illusion of a train without the need for alterations.

It is important to note that adding a train can be difficult and expensive, and it may be hard to match the fabric and colour exactly. It is always best to consult a professional seamstress to ensure the best results.

Sewing the pieces together

Firstly, buy a circle skirt pattern and follow its instructions. Take the tulle fabric and fold it in half multiple times until it fits the pattern. Carefully pin the tulle and the pattern together, ensuring they are securely fastened. Using the pattern as a guide, cut out the tulle.

Now, it's time to start sewing! Sew the sides of two pieces together. Repeat this step until all the pieces are attached. Remember, you can use as many pieces of fabric as needed to achieve the desired fullness for your skirt. Leave an 8-inch gap to allow you to step into the skirt easily.

Next, use a fabric fuser to thicken and stiffen the ribbon that will be used at the waist. Place this ribbon at the top of the skirt and fold the fabric over it. Sew this in place securely.

Finally, try on the skirt to ensure a perfect fit. If any adjustments are needed, carefully pin and sew the necessary areas. It is essential to maintain a clean and tidy workspace when working with white fabric to prevent any stains or discolouration.

Finishing touches

Once you have the basic structure of your wedding gown skirt, there are a few finishing touches you can add to make it even more special. Here are some ideas to consider:

• Add a bustle: This is a great way to add volume and elegance to your skirt. You can choose from different types of bustles, such as the one-point overbustle, French bustle, or American bustle. Each type has its own unique look and level of security, so choose the one that best suits your style and the weight of your fabric.
• Embellish with beading or embroidery: Hand-sewn beading or embroidery can add a touch of sparkle and elegance to your skirt. This technique is often used to create intricate patterns or designs that will make your skirt truly unique.
• Play with different fabrics: Combining different types of fabric can create a stunning effect. For example, you can use tulle or chiffon to create a soft, flowy look, or satin for a sleek and elegant finish. Don't be afraid to experiment with different textures and colours to find the perfect combination for your skirt.
• Add a train: If you want to make a dramatic entrance, consider adding a train to your skirt. This can be done by extending the back of the skirt and creating a beautiful, flowing tail. You can also make the train detachable so that you can easily move around during your reception.
• Customise the waistline: The waistline of your skirt can be accentuated in various ways. You can add a ribbon or belt for a stylish touch, or you can sew on decorative buttons or hooks to create a functional and fashionable detail.
• Layer with slips or petticoats: Slips and petticoats can be used to add fullness and volume to your skirt. They come in various styles, such as crinoline or tulle, and can be easily found in bridal shops. You can also have a seamstress add extra tulle to the underskirt of your gown for a custom fit.

Remember, the finishing touches are what will make your wedding gown skirt truly yours. So, take your time, experiment with different ideas, and don't be afraid to seek help from professionals or experienced seamstresses if needed.

Frequently asked questions