Rhiannon Hendricks
Creating a bustle for a wedding dress is a complex process that involves sewing loops, buttons, hooks, and ribbons to the dress by hand. The purpose of a bustle is to allow the wearer to move freely after the wedding ceremony without worrying about guests stepping on the train. There are several types of bustles, including the American, French, Austrian, and wrist bustle, each with its own unique style and level of complexity. While it is possible to create a bustle yourself, it is generally recommended to seek the help of an experienced seamstress or alterations expert to ensure a perfect fit and to avoid any potential issues. The process of making a wedding dress bustle loop involves using strong thread to create secure loops that can be attached to buttons or hooks, with the option to conceal them with lace appliqués.
Characteristics and Values Table for Making a Wedding Dress Bustle Loop
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Complexity | The complexity of the bustle depends on the type chosen. Some common types include the French, American, Austrian, and wrist bustle. |
| Materials | Thick thread, small circular backing, buttons, hooks, loops, ribbons, elastic cuff, and fabric. |
| Techniques | Sewing loops and buttons, attaching hooks, tying ribbons, and adjusting folds of fabric. |
| Cost | The cost of adding a bustle can range from $75 to $400, depending on the complexity and the number of buttons and loops. |
| Customization | The bustle is custom-made to fit the bride and her dress perfectly and can be hidden or exposed. |
| Weight Considerations | Lighter dresses are more suitable for certain types of bustles, such as the wrist bustle, as heavier dresses may be challenging to carry or inhibit movement. |
| Skill Level | While some sources recommend leaving it to professionals, others provide step-by-step instructions for DIY options. |
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What You'll Learn
Sewing loops to the dress
Sewing loops to a wedding dress is a complex process that requires skill and precision. It is generally recommended that this task be left to a professional seamstress or alterations expert, as they can navigate the intricate details of a wedding dress, such as lace and stylistic seams. However, if you choose to sew the loops yourself, here is a step-by-step guide to follow:
First, decide on the type of bustle you want for your wedding dress. The three most common types are the French, American, and Austrian bustles. The French bustle is known for its visible puff in the middle of the back of the skirt, while the American bustle is simpler and involves attaching the midpoint of the train to a button on the upper part of the skirt. The Austrian bustle, on the other hand, uses ribbons sewn inside the dress to create a ruched effect.
Once you have decided on the style, gather your materials. You will need strong thread, a needle, small pieces of interfacing, and any additional embellishments like lace appliqués. Mark the locations of the loops and buttons with pins. For a French bustle, the loops and buttons will be located under the skirt, while for an American bustle, they will be on the outside.
When sewing the loops, use strong thread to secure each loop. Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam line, and pull it through the interfacing and train. Make a small backstitch on the right side of the train, then pull the thread to create a loop that is approximately 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) long. Secure the loop with a knot to ensure it doesn't come undone.
After sewing all the loops, fasten them to the corresponding buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If you prefer a discreet look, you can conceal the buttons or hooks by hand-sewing lace appliqués over them.
Remember, the number of loops and buttons, as well as the complexity of their layout, will impact the overall cost and time required for the alterations. It is essential to have someone help you with bustling your dress, especially if it has a complex design.
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Attaching hooks or buttons
Firstly, decide on the placement of the hooks or buttons. This will depend on the style of the bustle and the design of the dress. For a one-point overbustle, a simple and popular option, you will need to sew a loop halfway up the length of the dress and a button about one foot above the bride's knees. This will allow the train to be lifted off the floor.
When attaching hooks, it is recommended to sew them onto the underside of the dress, at the very end of the train. This can be concealed with embroidery or beading, creating a discreet attachment. For an eye hook, attach it to the tie on the underside, which will create a fuller skirt. You may need multiple points of attachment for a more natural look.
When using buttons, sew them onto the dress wherever pin marks were made along the waistline. Stitch securely to ensure the bustle doesn't come undone. If reinforcement is needed, a small piece of interfacing can be attached under each button.
For a unique and discreet loop, a thick thread and a small circular backing can be used. Insert the thread through the back of the fabric and then through the front, close by. Pull the thread all the way through, cut it with some spare length, and then tie the two ends together. This creates a hidden loop that can securely hold the button.
It is worth noting that creating a bustle is a complex process that requires skill and experience. While it is possible to DIY, it is often recommended to seek the help of a professional seamstress or alterations expert to ensure the bustle is secure and does not damage the dress.
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Hiding hooks or buttons
If you are determined to hide hooks or buttons yourself, there are a few methods you can try. One option is to use lace appliqués to conceal the hooks or buttons. Hand-sew the lace appliqués over the fasteners, and be sure to have safety pins on hand. Another method is to use a thread loop. This involves using a thick thread and a small circular backing. Insert the thread through the back of the fabric and then through the front, less than a centimeter away. Pull it all the way through, cut the thread with a couple of inches to spare, and then tie the two ends together. This creates a hidden loop that can be pulled through to conceal the hook or button.
If you are working with a skilled seamstress, they may have their own methods for hiding hooks and buttons. For example, they might use fur hooks, or paint a large silver hook with white nail polish and use a thread loop to attach it. Alternatively, they might use satin-covered buttons and crochet thread loops, with an appliqué on top to hide the loop.
When adding a bustle to your wedding dress, it is important to consider the type of dress, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear it. For example, if your dress has a train, a simple American bustle can be a good option to allow you to move freely. The ballroom bustle is another option that completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress.
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Creating a wrist bustle
A wrist loop bustle is a great option for brides who want to be able to pick up their dress quickly for walking or taking photos, but don't want to fuss with bustling their dress. It is also a good option for brides who want to show off the intricate details of their train. A wrist loop can be made by sewing a loop onto the train of the dress, which the bride can then put her wrist through to hold up the train. This option is particularly useful for brides who want to dance without a long train getting in the way.
To create a wrist loop, you will need a 1/2" wide piece of double-sided satin ribbon long enough to slip easily onto your wrist. You will also need a needle and thread. Sew the ribbon to the centre back seam on the underside of the train, about 1/3 of the way up from the hem. Then, make a small opening in the seam and slip the loop through to the outside of the train. You can then place your wrist through the loop and hold the train up as needed.
It is important to note that wrist loops are typically only meant to be used temporarily, as holding the train up for an extended period can be tiring. Brides may choose to switch between using the wrist loop and a traditional bustle throughout the night. Additionally, some brides may find that the weight of the train on their wrist becomes heavy quickly, especially when dancing.
For these reasons, it is essential to plan ahead and ensure that someone in the wedding party, such as the mother of the bride, mother-in-law, or a bridesmaid, knows how to properly bustle the dress in case the wrist loop becomes too tiring to hold.
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Adding an Austrian bustle
The Austrian bustle is a less popular alternative to the traditional French and American bustles. It is created by gathering the fabric along the back middle of the skirt, resulting in a visual masterpiece that resembles ruching or ruffles. This style is perfect for gowns with intricate details along the skirt and train. It is also one of the easier styles for bridesmaids to secure, as it involves pulling up on a drawstring.
To create an Austrian bustle, you can sew a series of ribbons on the inside of the dress. These ribbons are then pulled tightly together to bustle the gown down the centre back. This process creates a stunning draped effect. The ribbons are tied securely to ensure that the bustle remains in place.
Another method for creating an Austrian bustle involves sewing metal eyes along the back and princess seam lines at regular intervals. A length of ribbon is then threaded through the eyes and knotted at the bottom, allowing you to gather the seams and create a drape at the hem. This method provides the flexibility to adjust the height of the drape by knotting the ribbon at the desired point.
While adding a bustle can enhance the beauty and functionality of a wedding dress, it is a delicate and intricate process that requires careful execution. The use of strong thread, precise stitching, and attention to detail are crucial to ensure the durability and aesthetics of the bustle.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a custom addition to a wedding dress that makes it easier for the wearer to move around, especially if the dress has a train. It is usually added after purchasing the gown and can cost anywhere from $75 to $400.
A bustle allows you to move freely after the wedding without worrying about guests stepping on your train. It also adds a unique style to your dress, creating a fuller and more voluminous look.
There are several types of wedding dress bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, Austrian bustle, and wrist bustle. Each style varies in complexity and the number of attachment points.
Making a bustle loop involves using strong thread to create a secure loop that can be attached to a button or hook. You can sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress and then sew the button above it, ensuring it is secure. Alternatively, you can use thick thread and a small circular backing to create a hidden loop that can be pulled through either side.
Yes, one alternative is to use an elastic cuff or a waist strap to hold the train to the side or snap it in place, respectively. These options are less visible and can be easier to execute than traditional bustles.
