Deborah Chan
Wedding dress trains come in a variety of lengths and styles, each bringing a different level of drama and elegance to a bride's look. Trains can be detachable or built-in, and they can be made from a range of fabrics, including silk, satin, tulle, chiffon, lace, and organza. When adding a train to a wedding dress, it is important to consider the venue's space and surface, as well as the fabric's durability and ease of cleaning. In this discussion, we will explore the different ways to make a train for a wedding dress, taking into account the desired style, functionality, and overall aesthetic of the bridal ensemble.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Train type | Detachable, Watteau, Half-skirt, Sweep, Chapel, Cathedral, Court, Brush |
| Train length | Short, long |
| Fabric | Tulle, chiffon, lace, organza, dupioni silk, satin |
| Train weight | Lightweight, heavyweight |
| Train volume | Cascading, voluminous, whimsical, flowy |
| Train features | Intricate lace detailing, floral appliqués, coloured trains, illusion trains |
| Train attachment | Tied, pinned, buttons, hooks, ribbon, clasp, decorative pin |
| Train maintenance | Bustles, wrist loops |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
When it comes to choosing the right fabric for a wedding dress train, there are several factors to consider. The weight of the fabric, the desired level of structure and volume, the type of train, and the season of the wedding all play a role in determining the best option. Here are some guidelines to help you make the right choice:
Fabric Weight and Seasonality
The weight of the fabric you choose for the train will depend on the season of the wedding. For a summer or spring wedding, opt for lightweight and breathable fabrics such as chiffon, organza, or silk. Chiffon is a great choice if you want a lot of movement in the train, and it's perfect for dancing the night away. Organza, made from woven silk, adds structure while remaining lightweight, making it ideal for creating volume and drama. Silk, on the other hand, can be used for a sleek and flowy look, like in a crepe gown, or for a heavier option like silk taffeta, which gives a glistening illusion of water when caught in the light. Just remember, heavier fabrics like moire, a polyester or heavy silk taffeta blend, are more suitable for winter weddings.
Structure and Volume
If you're looking to create a structured silhouette with volume, certain fabrics are better suited for the task. While chiffon and organza are lightweight, they may not provide the necessary structure for a more defined look. In this case, consider stiffer fabrics like tulle or brocade. Brocade, made from silk or synthetic fibres, features raised designs woven into the fabric, adding texture and structure. Tulle is another fabric that can add volume, especially when layered, and it comes in various colours and styles, including embroidered and beaded options.
Train Type and Length
The style and length of the train will also influence your fabric choice. A sweep train, for example, typically doesn't require a lot of support, and a simple horsehair braid added to the hem may be sufficient. Horsehair braid comes in various widths, and a 1" to 1.5" width is usually recommended. If the dress is made of chiffon, however, be cautious as horsehair may be too heavy for the delicate fabric. For longer trains, consider using a stiffer fabric like tulle or organza, which can help create a dramatic silhouette without weighing the train down.
Personalization and Details
When it comes to fabric, don't be afraid to personalize your train and gown. You can add details like beading, crystals, sequins, or lace appliques to the fabric to make it unique. Many fabrics can be customized, from silk to tulle, and you can even opt for colourful options or dual-sided fabrics like dual silk satin. Consider the overall look and feel you want to achieve, and don't be afraid to mix and match fabrics to create a one-of-a-kind train that reflects your style.
In conclusion, choosing the right fabric for your wedding dress train involves considering the weight, structure, volume, and seasonality of the fabric, as well as the type of train you desire. Remember to personalize your fabric choices to make your wedding dress unique and reflective of your style.
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Adding a ruffle to the lining
When adding a ruffle to the lining, it's important to consider the fabric and style of the dress. For example, if the dress is made of chiffon, a lightweight fabric, a horsehair braid may be too heavy and could drag on the floor. Instead, opt for a lightweight fabric like tulle to create a delicate and airy ruffle.
To begin the process of adding a ruffle, decide on the desired depth and width of the ruffle. This will determine the amount of fabric needed and the gathering technique used. If lengthening the dress is the goal, choose a deeper ruffle, such as 4", and add the appropriate seam allowance to your measurements.
Next, mark the placement of the ruffle on the skirt with chalk lines. This will ensure the ruffle is attached evenly and in the desired location. Prepare the ruffle by gathering the fabric using a gathering foot or hand-gathering techniques. A gathering foot speeds up the process, but hand-gathering provides more control over the amount of gathering.
Once the ruffle is gathered to the desired fullness, pin it in place along the chalk lines. Then, carefully stitch the ruffle to the lining, either by hand or using a topstitch on your sewing machine.
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Using horsehair trim
Horsehair trim is a popular choice for wedding dress trains, as it adds body and shape to the train while also adding movement to the skirt. It is typically made from synthetic nylon or plastic braiding and can be purchased in a variety of widths, usually between one and two inches wide. Here is a step-by-step guide to using horsehair trim for a wedding dress train:
Step 1: Cutting and Preparation
When cutting out the fabric, ensure that the main fabric and lining are the same length. Allow for the width of the horsehair trim for your hem allowance. Mark out where you want the finished line of your hem to be with pins, and line up the horsehair trim below this line, pinning it in place. Trim off any excess fabric, keeping your offcuts to match up with your lining later.
Step 2: Attaching the Horsehair Trim
Fold the hemline up so that the wrong side is now along the hemline marking. Edgestitch along the folded side. Depending on the fabric and bulk of your dress, you may need to use a sewing machine. Tack the free edge of the horsehair trim to the seams using a tacking stitch in a cross pattern. Once the trim is tacked, whip stitch the two folded ends along the seam. A whip stitch is done by passing the thread over the edge of the fabric diagonally, without going through all of the layers.
Step 3: Pressing the Hem
Press or steam the new hemline to set it in place. Be careful to use a clean and large enough work surface to move the gown. If using a flat iron, be cautious not to scorch the fabric. Alternatively, use a touchless steamer to achieve a strong hem without damaging the fabric.
Step 4: Finishing Touches
As an option, you can stitch the other edge of the horsehair trim to the lining. If doing a hand-stitched hem, stitch the hem inside the hem allowance, with one edge on the hem fold. You can also stitch a lace hem tape to the edge of the hem to finish it off stylishly.
Additional Tips:
- Horsehair trim comes with a string at the top that can be pulled to create a curve, especially useful for curved hemlines.
- If you are concerned about the train dragging on the floor, consider using netting or another layer of organza instead of horsehair trim.
- For a chiffon dress, horsehair trim may be too heavy.
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Creating a detachable train
Choosing the Right Train
Before you begin creating your detachable train, it's important to consider the style and fabric of your wedding dress. Think about the overall aesthetic you want to achieve and choose a train that complements it. Do you want a full skirt or a half-skirt that shows off your curves? Would you like a train made of tulle, lace, or another fabric? Consider the length and volume of the train as well. A detachable train can turn a fitted silhouette into a ball gown or add a flowing train to a mini dress.
Attaching the Train
There are several ways to attach a detachable train to your wedding dress. One method is to sew the train to a piece of elastic that is slightly smaller than your waist circumference. The elastic can then be slipped under a peplum or waistband of the dress, allowing you to easily remove the train when desired. Another option is to use hooks and eyes. You can attach the hooks to the train and sew the corresponding eyes onto the dress at the waist or back, depending on your preference.
Complementary Details
If you're looking for a cohesive look, consider choosing a detachable train that features similar beading, applique, or lace details as your wedding dress. Many bridal gowns offer coordinating detachable trains or overskirts that perfectly match the gown. However, don't be afraid to mix and match. A simple tulle skirt, for example, can add a whimsical and flowy element to almost any bridal gown.
Practical Considerations
When creating a detachable train, it's important to think about the practicality of your design. Consider the weight of the fabric and ensure that the attachment method is secure and comfortable. Discuss your vision with a seamstress or a bridal consultant to ensure that your detachable train not only looks stunning but also functions flawlessly throughout your special day.
By following these steps and tips, you can create a detachable train that enhances your wedding dress and gives you the option to transform your look with ease.
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Selecting the right length
Venue and Mobility
Consider the venue and how much you plan to move around on your wedding day. If you're getting married outdoors, on a beach, or in a garden, a shorter train might be more practical. A sweep train, for example, barely grazes the floor and extends only a few inches from the bottom hem, making it a sensible choice for outdoor or more casual weddings. If you plan on dancing and moving around a lot, a shorter train will also give you more freedom and ease of movement.
Formality and Style
The length of your train can also indicate the formality of your wedding. A chapel train, extending 3 to 4 feet from the waist, strikes a perfect balance between formal and understated. It's a timeless choice that's not too fussy. If you're envisioning a grand, formal affair, a semi-cathedral or cathedral train might be more suitable. These trains exude drama and elegance, extending 4 to 5 feet and 6 to 8 feet respectively. For an even more dramatic and regal look, a monarch or royal train flows 10 feet or more, truly making a statement.
Detachable Trains
If you want to have two looks for your wedding, consider a detachable train. You can wear a dramatic train for the ceremony and then remove it to reveal a more comfortable, dance-friendly reception look. This option gives you the best of both worlds and adds versatility to your wedding ensemble.
Ultimately, the length of your wedding dress train should reflect your unique style and vision for your special day. Whether you choose a subtle sweep train or a grand cathedral length, the train will undoubtedly add a memorable touch to your bridal ensemble.
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Frequently asked questions
Brides typically attend two to four fittings, but the number of fittings will depend on the number of changes your wedding dress requires.
Bring the shoes and undergarments you plan to wear on your wedding day. If you haven't decided on your exact bridal shoes, bring a pair with the same height as what you plan to wear. You should also bring any key accessories, such as a veil, tiara, jewellery, or gloves.
During your wedding dress fittings, a seamstress will help put your gown on and review the alterations needed. Typical wedding dress alterations include adjusting the bodice, seams, and hem to fit your body perfectly.
Wedding dress fittings ensure that your gown fits perfectly, meets your specifications, and makes you feel your best. The fitting process transforms your gown from a beautiful garment to a dress that feels like it was crafted just for you.
