Rhiannon Hendricks
A petticoat is an undergarment made of layers of fabric that give a dress volume and shape. Tulle is a popular fabric for petticoats because of its stiffness, which helps create a puffy silhouette. To make a tulle petticoat for a wedding dress, you'll need to decide on the length and number of layers, then purchase the required amount of tulle fabric. You can follow online tutorials for cutting and assembling the fabric, and consider adding a soft fabric like chiffon for the first layer to avoid itchiness. Trimming the hem with ribbon binding can also make the petticoat more comfortable and prevent it from catching on the dress.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Tulle, crinoline, chiffon, cotton, net, lace, silk |
| Number of layers | 2-3 layers |
| Length | 1 inch shorter than the skirt/dress |
| Width | Divide the length of the skirt/dress by 3, then add 1 inch for seams |
| Tools | Sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, ribbon binding |
| Tips | Cut the petticoat according to hip measurement for a fuller look and easier wear |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fabric
Fabric Type: Tulle, Crinoline, or Chiffon
The most popular fabric for petticoats is tulle, known for its stiffness, which adds volume and puffiness to the skirt. Tulle is available in various colours, making it a versatile choice. However, it can be itchy, so consider using chiffon for the first layer if you prefer a softer and more comfortable option. Crinoline is another alternative, usually found in white or black, providing excellent structure and volume to the petticoat.
Fabric Width and Length
When selecting your fabric, consider the width and length of the petticoat you desire. For a typical petticoat, you will need around 4 to 5 yards of fabric. If you want a shorter petticoat, you can opt for 3 to 4 yards. The width of the fabric should be determined by the number of tiers you want in your petticoat. Each tier's width can be calculated by dividing the desired length by the number of tiers and then adding an extra inch for the seams.
Fabric Colour and Aesthetics
Tulle is a popular choice for bridal petticoats due to its elegant and airy look. It gives the dress a floaty and ethereal appearance. If you want to add a unique touch, you can create a rainbow petticoat by using layers of different coloured tulle. Additionally, consider the colour of your wedding dress and choose a fabric colour that complements it.
Fabric Comfort
Since the petticoat will be worn under your wedding dress, it is essential to choose a fabric that is comfortable against your skin. If you are using tulle, consider trimming the hem with ribbon binding to prevent it from becoming scratchy and catching on your dress. Alternatively, fabrics like chiffon or cotton lawn can provide a softer and more comfortable option for the underskirt.
Fabric Volume and Fullness
If you desire a voluminous petticoat, opt for full-bodied fabrics like taffeta or multiple layers of tulle. The number of layers will impact the overall volume and fullness of the petticoat. However, if you prefer a softer silhouette, a lightweight petticoat with a few layers of soft tulle can create a more subtle effect.
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Measuring the length
Firstly, decide on the length of your petticoat by measuring the skirt or dress you plan to wear it with. Start measuring from the waist seam of the skirt to its bottom hem. If your dress or skirt does not have a waist seam, measure down from the narrowest part of the waist instead. The petticoat should typically be about one inch shorter than the skirt or dress. For example, if your skirt measures 25 inches in length, your petticoat should be about 24 inches long.
Next, determine the number of tiers your petticoat will have. A petticoat typically consists of three tiers, and you will need to divide your length measurement by the number of tiers. In the example of a 24-inch petticoat, each tier would be approximately eight inches wide.
After determining the width of each tier, add an extra inch to account for the seams. In the previous example, adding an inch for the seams results in a final width of nine inches for each tier.
Now that you have the width for each tier, you can calculate the length of fabric strips required. Cut fabric strips of two, four, and eight yards for the tiers. For the top tier, cut a two-yard piece, a four-yard piece for the middle tier, and two four-yard pieces for the bottom tier.
Finally, you can assemble your tiers. Sew the tiers together using a straight stitch and a half-inch seam allowance. You can adjust the length of your petticoat by trimming any excess fabric after assembling the tiers.
Remember, these measurements serve as a guide, and you can customise the length and tiers according to your preferences and the style of your wedding dress.
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Cutting the fabric
To cut the fabric for your petticoat, start by purchasing 4 to 5 yards of tulle or crinoline. If you want a stiffer, more structured look, go for crinoline, which usually comes in white. Tulle, on the other hand, comes in a variety of colours and is a better option if you want something that looks pretty. If you want less volume at the top of the skirt, consider using chiffon for the top tier.
Next, measure from the waist seam to the bottom hem of the skirt you plan to wear over the petticoat, and subtract 1 inch. This is to ensure that the petticoat is slightly shorter than the skirt, as it should be. Then, divide this number by 3 and add 1 inch for the seams to get the width for each of the 3 tiers of the petticoat.
Once you have your measurements, cut the strips of fabric accordingly. For the top tier, cut a 2-yard piece of fabric. For the middle tier, cut a 4-yard piece. Finally, for the bottom tier, cut two 4-yard pieces.
If you are wearing the petticoat with a dress that does not have a waist seam, measure down from the narrowest part of the waist instead. Cutting the petticoat according to your hip measurement will result in a half-circle skirt that is easy to slip on and off and will give you a little more fullness. Use your hip measurement plus 2 inches to determine the radius of your half-circle skirt. Fold your fabric in half lengthwise and map out your skirt. Remember to factor in a seam allowance at the waistline and a hemming allowance.
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Sewing the tiers
First, decide on the length and number of layers of your petticoat. Measure the skirt or dress you plan to wear the petticoat with, from the waist seam to the hemline. The petticoat should be about one inch shorter than the dress. Depending on the desired fullness and volume, you can use fabric types like tulle, crinoline, or chiffon. Tulle is ideal for a puffy look, while crinoline provides more stiffness and volume. Chiffon, a softer fabric, can be used for the first layer if you want a more comfortable option.
Next, calculate the width of each tier. Divide the desired length by the number of tiers (usually three) and add an extra inch for the seams. This calculation will give you the width for each tier. Cut the fabric strips according to these measurements. For example, if your skirt is 25 inches long, each tier would be eight inches wide after adding an inch for the seams.
Now, it's time to assemble the tiers. Use a straight stitch with a half-inch seam allowance to attach the tiers together. You can use a sewing machine for this step, ensuring a secure and straight stitch line. If you want to add more volume to the petticoat, consider gathering the fabric before stitching the tiers together. This technique involves creating ruffles by sewing along one edge of the fabric and then gently pulling the bobbin thread to create a gathered effect.
After assembling the tiers, you can sew them together to form the petticoat. Remember to leave an opening for the waistband. If desired, trim the hem with ribbon binding to prevent the tulle from becoming scratchy and catching on your dress.
Finally, attach the waistband. Measure the waist of the dress or skirt and cut a strip of fabric to match the measurement. Sew the waistband securely to the top tier of the petticoat, ensuring it aligns with the waist seam of the dress.
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Trimming the hem
Firstly, decide on the length of your petticoat. A general rule of thumb is to measure the skirt or dress you plan to wear over the petticoat and subtract about 1 inch. This ensures that your petticoat remains discreet and does not peek out from under your garment. Take into account the desired number of tiers or layers, as this will impact the overall length.
Next, cut your fabric according to your measurements. If you are working with multiple layers or tiers, carefully cut each strip of fabric to the specified length. Remember to add a seam allowance to your measurements, typically around 1/2 inch, to account for attaching the tiers or creating a hem.
After cutting your fabric, it's time to assemble the tiers. Sew the tiers together using a straight stitch and a 1/2 inch seam allowance, as mentioned earlier. If you are creating a ruffle effect, gather the fabric so that it matches the hemline of the tulle skirt. Sew the ruffle directly onto the skirt, with the wrong side of the ruffle facing the right side of the skirt. Use a wide zigzag stitch, sewing from the wrong side, to ensure a smooth and efficient sewing process.
Once your tiers are assembled, you can attach them to the underskirt or the previous tier. Lay the tulle skirt over the underskirt, with the right sides of both fabrics facing you, and pin them together along the waistline. Sew along this line, securing the tiers together. If you are creating a multi-layered petticoat, repeat this process for each layer, attaching the layers gradually.
Finally, trim any excess fabric from the hem. If you prefer a uniform hem, carefully cut away any tulle that extends beyond the underskirt or the desired length. This step ensures a neat and consistent finish. Additionally, consider trimming the hem with ribbon binding. Ribbon binding adds a decorative touch and prevents the tulle from becoming scratchy or catching on your dress.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need about 4 to 5 yards of tulle for your wedding dress petticoat. Depending on how many layers you want, you may need more. For example, if you want three layers, you will need about 3.5m of tulle.
Measure the skirt/dress you plan to wear from the waist seam to the bottom hem. Subtract 1 inch from this measurement to get the ideal length for your petticoat.
Divide the length of your petticoat by 3, then add 1 inch for the seams. This will give you the width for each of the 3 tiers. For example, if your petticoat is 24 inches long, each tier would be 8 inches wide plus 1 inch for the seams.
Once you have assembled your tiers, sew them together. You can trim the hem with ribbon binding to stop the tulle from catching on your dress.
