Junior Rasmussen
Making a structured wedding dress is a complicated and time-consuming process that requires skill and patience. The first step is to determine the basic shape of the dress, which can range from minimalist to elaborate styles. The location of the wedding should be considered when choosing the shape and fabric of the dress. For example, a beach wedding calls for a soft, light, and flowy shape and fabric, while a wedding in a grand cathedral may require a more structured silhouette. The next step is to choose the fabric, which can be anything from silk to nylon to wool. The fabric should complement the complexion of the bride and be suitable for the season. After sketching the design, taking measurements, and making any desired modifications, the cutting and sewing process can begin. Structured wedding dresses often feature boning, precise seams, and high-quality fabrics that create a stunning, sculpted effect.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the fabric
When choosing the fabric for a structured wedding dress, it is important to consider the desired look and feel of the dress, as well as the formality of the celebration and the season in which the wedding will take place.
For a structured gown, some fabrics are more suitable than others. For example, Mikado silk is a thicker silk blend that is perfect for structured gowns as it holds its shape. This fabric is a popular choice for fit-and-flare, trumpet, or A-line silhouettes. Crepe is another mid-weight fabric option that clings to the body and drapes beautifully, making it an excellent choice for those who want to flaunt their curves. It is commonly used for sheath or fit-and-flare silhouettes.
If you are looking for a structured dress for a summer or destination wedding, Georgette is a lightweight yet sophisticated option. Chiffon is another lightweight fabric that is perfect for beach weddings as it is cool and looks beautiful blowing in the breeze. Brocade, made from silk or synthetic fibres, is also a good choice for warmer weather as it is distinguished by raised designs woven into the fabric.
For a glamorous look, a beaded wedding dress made from luxurious tulle can create an unforgettable entrance by gently capturing the natural light and creating an iridescent effect. For a romantic and intricate design, Guipure lace is a good option, while Chantilly lace is a more minimalist choice.
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Adding structure
Boning
One of the most important features of a structured wedding dress is boning. Boning consists of lightweight strips of plastic or spring steel, sewn between the seams of the bodice. This provides support and helps to create a flattering silhouette. The boning should be covered by a strong fabric, such as cotton, to hold it in place. It is important to ensure that the boning ends just above the bending point of the body when sitting down, so the wearer can move and sit comfortably.
Bra Cup Moulds
Bra cup moulds are another way to add structure and support to the bodice of a wedding dress. They provide instant bust shape and can be easily placed by a bridal seamstress. This feature ensures that the wearer feels comfortable and secure, especially if the dress has a strapless or backless design.
Fabric Choice
The choice of fabric is crucial in adding structure to a wedding dress. For a structured look, fabrics such as silk gazar, damask, or silk zibeline are ideal as they hold their shape well. These fabrics are often used in structured, romantic designs and full-skirted styles, creating a sculpted effect.
Internal Corsetry
Internal corsetry is a technique used in structured wedding dresses to provide support and create a flattering silhouette. This involves incorporating lightweight boning and lacing to shape the wearer's figure. The lacing can be made from fabric such as satin, and it is important to create a lacing panel to ensure the dress holds its shape when tightened.
Multiple Layers
Adding multiple layers to a wedding dress can also help to create structure and volume. For example, the bodice of a dress might consist of a lining layer, a structure layer, a satin layer, and a lace layer. Each layer adds depth and shape to the overall design, ensuring the dress holds its form.
Creating a structured wedding dress involves a combination of these techniques, tailored to the specific design and silhouette desired. It is a complex process that requires skill and attention to detail, but the result is a gown that makes the wearer feel supported, comfortable, and confident.
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Creating the bodice
The bodice consists of four layers: the lining layer, the structure layer, the satin layer, and the lace layer. The fabric layers cover the corselet, which is attached to the bodice along the top neck edge and the zipper. The lining and bodice are attached to the corselet, and self-fabric straps can be added—these are tubes of satin with a piece of twill tape strung through. The fabric bodice is made of the same three layers as the skirt, cut with three of each pattern piece, to ensure that the colours are cohesive throughout the dress.
Before sewing the bodice, carefully lay each of the three fabrics on top of each other, matching the grain lines. Use a dress bodice piece with zero seam allowance to trace the shape onto the dress using dots with a pilot frixion pen. Choose a pen that will not stain the fabric and disappear with heat. After tracing the zero seam allowance line, line up a second version of the pattern piece with a 5/8” seam allowance and trace that line in the same way. Once the cutting line is traced, carefully cut out all three layers of the fabric. Try various configurations of pinning so that the pieces can be held in the right place. Pinning along the seam, instead of across it, will work best. Pin the pieces right sides together, and then run another line of basting 1/16” between the seam line and the first basting line, being careful to line them up on both sides. Once all the pieces are basted together, carefully press the seams flat so that you can check the fit before sewing the seams permanently.
The boning is an important part of the bodice, giving structure and support to the wearer. Boning is especially useful for those with a larger bust who feel they need extra support. It can be made with soft, mouldable plastic strips encased in sewable tape, which softens when in contact with the body. The boning is sewn between the seams of the bodice and covered on one side by the cotton fabric of the structure layer and on the other side by two layers of bias tape. The boning should end just above the bending point of the body when sitting down, to allow for movement. Strips with loops can be sewn to the structure layer of the bodice, along with tunnels for spring steel boning.
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Finalising the design
Fabric Selection:
Choose a fabric that complements your complexion and suits the location of your wedding. For a beach wedding, opt for soft, light, and flowy fabrics like voile or dotted Swiss. If you're getting married in a grand cathedral, consider stiffer fabrics like gazar or damask, which hold structured shapes well and can be used in full-skirted styles. For a warm-weather wedding, lightweight and breathable fabrics like silk or polyester georgette are ideal.
Silhouette and Structure:
Determine the basic silhouette of your dress, whether it's a trumpet/fit-and-flare style, A-line, or a ball gown. Consider your body type and what will flatter your figure. Decide on the level of structure you desire, such as boning or bra cup moulds, to provide support and enhance your natural shape. Boning can be made from lightweight plastic strips or spring steel, sewn between the seams of the bodice for a secure fit.
Detailing and Customisation:
Finalise any customisations or unique details you want to incorporate. This could include detachable trains, veils, lace trim, or embroidery. If you desire a strapless or backless design, ensure the structure provides adequate support and comfort. Consider the closure type, such as buttons or corset strings, to complement the overall design.
Fit and Adjustments:
Try on your dress to ensure it fits perfectly. If you've hand-sewn your dress, you can easily pull out the stitches and make adjustments. This is also an excellent time to decide on any last-minute tweaks or modifications, such as adjusting the neckline or removing sleeves.
Final Touches:
Review your design and ensure it aligns with your vision. Check that all the elements come together harmoniously, from the fabric to the silhouette, structure, and detailing. If you're satisfied, proceed to the final stage of sewing the dress together securely. If you're creating a liner, this is when you'll cut and sew it into the dress.
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Trying it on
Trying on a wedding dress is an important step in the process of creating your dream gown. It is essential to ensure the perfect fit, comfort, and overall aesthetic. Here are some detailed instructions and considerations for trying on a structured wedding dress:
Trying on the Bodice:
The bodice of a structured wedding dress is a crucial component, often featuring boning, precise seams, and multiple layers. When trying on the bodice, ensure that it fits snugly and securely. The boning should provide a comfortable “held-in" feeling without restricting your movement. Check that the seams lay flat and smooth, enhancing your natural silhouette. The bodice should also be comfortable enough to expose your neckline, shoulders, or back with confidence.
Adjusting for Support and Comfort:
Structured wedding dresses are designed to provide support and eliminate the need for certain types of underwear. When trying on your dress, assess whether you feel adequately supported without a bra. For larger-busted women, consider the addition of bra cup moulds or push-up bra cups by a bridal seamstress for enhanced shape and support. Ensure that you feel comfortable and confident, especially if you plan to dance or move around a lot during your wedding celebrations.
Fabric and Layer Assessment:
The fabric and layers of your dress impact its overall structure, flow, and comfort. When trying on your dress, assess the weight and breathability of the fabric, especially if your wedding is during a particular season or in a specific location. For example, a beach wedding calls for lighter, more flowy fabrics, while a winter wedding might require warmer options. Consider the number of layers and their arrangement, ensuring they complement each other and your body shape.
Final Adjustments and Customisations:
Before finalising your structured wedding dress, make any necessary adjustments to perfect the fit. This may include taking in or letting out seams, adjusting the length, or customising the closure, such as opting for buttons or corset strings. These final adjustments ensure your dress is unique to your body and preferences.
Trying on the Complete Ensemble:
Don't forget to try on the entire ensemble, including any accessories, veils, or detachable trains you plan to wear with your structured wedding dress. This final try-on will give you a complete picture of your wedding-day look and allow you to make any last-minute adjustments or additions to create your dream bridal ensemble.
Trying on a structured wedding dress is a meticulous process that ensures your gown is both beautiful and functional on your special day. Remember to consider fit, support, comfort, and customisations during this exciting step of your wedding journey!
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Frequently asked questions
A structured wedding dress is a luxurious option that will make your gown feel substantial and give you a secure and 'held-in' feeling. Structured gowns often feature boning, precise seams, and high-quality fabrics that create a stunning, sculpted effect.
Structured wedding dresses are ideal for brides who appreciate clean lines and defined silhouettes. They provide a flawless fit that enhances your natural shape. A structured dress ensures that you feel supported, comfortable, and effortlessly chic on your big day.
There are several popular fabrics for wedding dresses. Tulle, voile, lace, and silk are commonly used. For a structured dress, silk gazar is a prominent choice as it holds its shape well and is best used in structured, romantic designs.
