Creating A Single Wedding Ring Quilt: A Step-By-Step Guide

The wedding ring quilt is a daunting project, but the finish is worth it. This quilt is not for beginners, but if you're up for the challenge, there are many online resources to help you get started. You'll need to decide on your colour scheme and buy your fabric, then cut and sew your pieces together. You can use a template to help you with this process, and there are many available to buy online. Once you've sewn your pieces together, you can sew the columns together with a long seam that goes from top to bottom in a gentle curve. Finally, you can add batting and backing to your quilt, and it's ready to be used or gifted!

Choosing a template

When choosing a template for your single wedding ring quilt, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, the size and shape of the pieces that make up the melon can vary, so it is important to select a template that suits your desired outcome. Some templates may have slightly different shapes for the pieces that go around the melon, so finding one with pieces that are all the same can make the process easier.

Another factor to consider is the availability of the template. While some templates can be purchased online, such as the Australian brand mentioned in the source, others may be available through quilting magazines or local quilt shops. It is worth exploring different options to find a template that suits your needs.

Additionally, the complexity of the template should be considered. Some templates may be more suitable for beginners, while others may be designed for more experienced quilters. If you are new to quilting, opting for a simpler template can make the process more enjoyable and help you build your skills.

It is also important to consider the size of the quilt you want to make. Different templates may produce different-sized blocks, so choosing a template that aligns with your desired quilt size is essential. For example, if you are making a king-size quilt, you will need a larger template to create more rings.

Finally, the fabric choice for your quilt should be considered when choosing a template. Some templates may work better with certain types of fabric, such as feedsack prints or batiks. Considering the overall design and colour scheme of your quilt can help you select a template that will complement your fabric choices.

Sewing the pieces together

Firstly, piece the segments together to make an arch and sew this arch to one side of the melon. Iron this towards the centre. Sew another arch and, if your pattern calls for it, add two extra pieces to each end of the arch. Find the middle of both the arch and the melon, then flip it over so the right sides are together and pin. Sew from edge to edge and press towards the centre of the melon again.

Now, put your iron away. You won't need to press again until the quilt top is finished. This is because, as you press, the pieces will become less flexible. The original wedding ring quilt pattern was designed to be hand-pieced, and those who made it first certainly didn't have the luxury of modern pressing equipment!

Next, make two pieced melons and turn them so the right sides are together. Place one pin at the first intersection, put the piece in your machine and stitch from the edge to almost the pin. Stop a stitch or two before you reach it.

DON'T press. Now, find the middle of the melon and the background piece, flip them so they are right sides together and pin in place. Work with the melon at the top, and sew from the seam line of the pin on the left, around to the pin on the right, stopping at the seam. Make sure to take your time and ensure that the background piece is in place. Put it in the machine and sew, stopping at the intersection of the last pin. As you sew, reposition the background piece. If you don't do this, you may get some puckers. Every time you sew a melon to a background piece, keep your hand there to guide the fabric along.

Now, sew the other side down. Find the middle of both the free melon and the background fabric and, as you bring the pieces together, make sure the background piece is positioned properly. Work with it until it is right. This can be a little tricky. Pin it down and sew like you did the other melon. Again, resist the temptation to press.

Now, sew the pieced blocks together. Use the same method as before. To make the row, manipulate the "blocks" as shown. One with an "inny" and the next with an "outy".

You can now see how they will match up with the first row. Once you have the rows done, sew them together. The first and last rows are slightly different but, if you get the rhythm of this, you can manage that too.

Pressing the seams

Pressing seams is an important step in the quilt-making process, and there are a few things to keep in mind when pressing the seams for a single wedding ring quilt.

Firstly, it is important to note that pressing seams for this quilt can be tricky due to the many curves involved. Most seams in a wedding ring quilt are curved, which can make the pressing process more challenging than with straight seams.

When piecing together the segments of the arch, it is recommended to press the seams towards the centre of the melon shape. This will help to reduce bulk and create a neater appearance. After sewing an arch to one side of the melon, press the seams towards the centre and then repeat the process for the other side of the melon.

When attaching the arches to the melon, it is important to avoid pressing the seams. This is because pressing can reduce flexibility, making it more difficult to sew the pieces together accurately. Instead, focus on pinning the pieces together accurately and manipulating the fabric as you sew to ensure a smooth finish.

As you work, you may find it helpful to press the seams of individual blocks or small sections of the quilt. However, it is best to avoid pressing all the seams until the entire quilt top is finished. This will help to maintain the flexibility of the fabric and make it easier to sew the blocks together.

Once the quilt top is complete, you can then press all the seams. Use an iron to press the seams flat, being careful not to stretch or distort the fabric. Pressing the seams at this stage will help to create a neat and professional finish for your single wedding ring quilt.

It is worth noting that pressing seams is a matter of personal preference, and some quilters may prefer to press seams at different stages of the quilt-making process. The key is to find a method that works best for you and helps you achieve the desired results.

Joining the arches

Firstly, piece the segments together to form an arch, and sew this arch to one side of the melon. Iron the arch towards the centre of the melon. Repeat this process to create another arch, but this time, add two extra pieces to each end of the arch. Typically, these end pieces are slightly different in shape. Find the middle of both the arch and the melon, and pin them together, right sides together. Sew from edge to edge, and then press towards the centre of the melon again.

Now, put your iron away. You won't need to press again until the quilt top is finished. This is because, as you press, the pieces become less flexible, and we need flexibility for the next steps. The original DWR pattern was designed as a hand-pieced quilt, and our foremothers did not press all the time.

Next, take your two pieced melons and turn them right sides together. Place one pin at the first intersection. Put the piece into your machine and stitch from the edge to almost the pin—stop about a stitch or two before the pin.

Now, find the middle of the melon and the background piece. Flip them right sides together and pin in place, working with the melon at the top. Sew from the seam line of the pin on the left, around to the pin on the right, stopping at the seam. Make sure to take your time and ensure that the background piece is in place. It should look like the picture. Put the piece into your machine and sew, making sure to stop at the intersection of the last pin. As you sew, use your hand to reposition the background piece to avoid puckers.

Now, find the middle of both the free melon and the background fabric. As you bring the pieces together, take time to ensure the background piece is positioned properly. Work with it until it is right. This is a little tricky. Pin it down and sew like you did the other melon, and remember—no pressing!

Now, sew the pieced blocks together. Use the same method as before. To make the row, manipulate the "blocks" as shown. One with an "inny", and the next with an "outy". You can see how they will match up with the first row. Once you have the rows done, sew them together. The first and last rows are slightly different, but if you get the rhythm of this, you can manage that too.

Finally, sew the blocks into vertical columns. The seam that will be sewn to join these two columns together will be one gently curving seam. Sew the columns together with one long seam that goes from top to bottom in a gentle curve. Make sure to match up the centre of each four-patch and the block centres with the pieced arc centres, the same way as the individual blocks were pieced.

Binding the quilt

Single or Double Fold Binding?

When selecting a quilt-binding method, consider the size and needs of the project. Single-fold binding is terrific for very small projects because there's only one layer of fabric binding over the raw fabric edge, reducing bulk and making it easier to work with small pieces.

However, double-fold binding is more common as it is easier, simpler, and provides better protection for the raw edge of the quilt.

Straight Edges or Curves?

If you're binding the edges of a project with straight sides and square corners, it's simplest to use fabric binding strips cut from the straight grain across the width of your fabric.

If your wedding ring quilt has curved or scalloped edges, you'll want your binding fabric to have some give to stretch around those curves. So it's best to cut your fabric binding strips on the fabric bias (at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain). This will require a lot of extra fabric and may result in more waste, but it will be worth it for a smooth finish on those corners and curves.

Fabric Choice

The general consensus is to use materials of the same weight and composition as the quilt itself. Traditionally, binding is made using the same fabric for the entire length. However, you can create a patchwork of different fabric strips for a scrappy look or add a single piece of contrasting fabric for a unique detail.

Thread Choice

The type of thread you use to sew your binding in place is also important. Some people prefer to use the same type of thread as the fabric (e.g. cotton thread for cotton fabric), while others prefer polyester thread because it can appear to melt into the fabric and become barely noticeable.

Binding Process

To bind the raw edges of your wedding ring quilt, you will need to make enough binding to cover the total length of the outside edges of the quilt, with a little extra left over.

For double-fold binding, cut strips of fabric that are at least 2" (5 cm) wide. For quilts, it is recommended to add an extra 1/4" (6 mm) for leeway, so aim for 2 1/4" strips.

Use a rotary cutter and acrylic ruler to cut the strips of fabric along the width of the fabric, from selvedge to selvedge. Trim the selvage ends off the strips, match right sides together, and sew them together end to end to make one long strip. Press your seams open, then fold the entire strip in half lengthwise and press again.

Attach the binding to the front of the quilt, starting in the centre of one side and leaving about 4 inches unpinned. Pin your strip to the edge, with the raw edges of the binding strip next to the raw edge of the quilt. When you reach a corner, mitre the corner by folding the strip up at a 45-degree angle, then fold it back down again, matching the folded edge with the edge of the quilt.

Continue pinning and mitring the corners until you have gone around the entire quilt. Fold the ends of the binding strip down so that the strips meet, press with your iron to make a crease, then trim both ends to about 1/4". Sew the ends together on the pressed crease.

Now, fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and pin or clip it in place, carefully folding the mitred corners. You can choose to hand stitch or machine stitch the binding in place.

Hand Stitching the Binding

To hand sew the binding, thread a fine but long needle with a single length of thread, knotted at one end. Bring the thread up through the binding, very close to the binding edge, then sew a small stitch over the binding edge and insert the needle, coming out again a little further down. Repeat this series of stitches, ensuring that the thread cannot be seen from the front of the quilt.

Machine Stitching the Binding

If you prefer to machine stitch the binding, start in the middle of one of the sides, sewing the binding to the quilt using the edge of your presser foot as your guide. When you get to a corner, sew right up to the first corner pin, lift the foot and needle, and turn the quilt. Flip the little triangle flap so that it lies in the other direction, then begin sewing the next side at the very edge, continuing with your seam allowance.

Frequently asked questions