Creating A Dreamy Lace Wedding Gown: A Step-By-Step Guide

Lace has long been considered a traditional material for wedding dresses, with its delicate and feminine fabric synonymous with bridal gowns. Creating a lace wedding gown requires a lot of labour, and handmade lace can be expensive. However, there are ways to create a lace wedding gown yourself. For example, you can make lace sleeves for a wedding gown using a sewing machine and clear thread. You can also sew a lace overlay onto the sides of a wedding gown.

Choosing the right type of lace

Alençon Lace:

Alençon lace, also known as corded lace, is a popular choice for bridal gowns. Originating from Alençon, France, this needlepoint lace is characterised by a 3-D effect created by the cording that outlines the pattern. It usually features floral designs, scrolls and medallions, and can be beaded for a sparkling touch. This lace is perfect for a bride seeking elegance and a touch of sparkle.

Chantilly Lace:

Chantilly lace is a delicate and famous French silk lace that dates back to the 17th century. It was once produced only in black but has since become a beloved bridal lace. Chantilly lace is similar to Alençon lace but features less pronounced cording, giving it a more ethereal and lightweight appearance. It is often chosen for romantic and whimsical wedding gowns.

Guipure Lace/Venise Lace/Venetian Lace:

Guipure lace, also known as Venise or Venetian lace, gained popularity in the 19th century. It is a bold and sturdy bobbin lace that can stand alone without a netting background. The patterns are created by closely embroidered stitches on a fine fabric that seems to disappear in the final product. This lace is perfect for a bride who wants to make a regal statement with her wedding gown.

Embroidered Lace:

Embroidered lace is a versatile choice, as it can be created by hand or machine. It typically features an illusion fabric base with the lace stitched on top, creating an appliqué effect. Embroidered lace is often used for ornate necklines and can include beading, sequins, or dimensional flowers for a unique and detailed look. This type of lace is perfect for a bride who wants to showcase her unique style.

Schiffli Lace:

Schiffli lace is an American-manufactured bridal lace with a unique production process. It is created by embroidering a pattern onto a sacrificial fabric that disintegrates when treated with specific chemicals, leaving behind the beautiful embroidery. This lace is a great choice for a bride seeking a vintage aesthetic while also being conscious of the environment, as updated production methods have reduced the use of harmful chemicals.

Point D'Esprit Lace:

Point D'Esprit lace is a simple and delicate lace characterised by woven dots on sheer tulle. It is perfect for creating an illusion top, layering in a skirt, or crafting a fashionable veil. This lace is an excellent choice for a modern or simple bride who wants a subtle touch of lace in her wedding dress.

Honiton Lace:

Honiton lace is a classic and traditional handmade bobbin lace that has been recognised for its beauty and design for centuries. It was the choice of Queen Victoria for her bridal veil, and it is the origin of the white wedding tradition. Honiton lace is created by attaching separate complex patterns together to form beautiful repeating motifs. This lace is perfect for trims and adds intricate florals and patterns to any bridal gown.

Brocade Lace:

Brocade lace is a rich and decorative fabric often made with coloured silks and gold or silver accent threads. It is woven in a specific way to create a raised embroidered effect. This type of lace is perfect for a bride who wants to feel lavish and regal on her wedding day.

Knit Lace:

Knit lace is a machine-made, flexible fabric that provides comfort and ease of wear. It is often made without a tulle backing, giving it a stand-alone look without stiffness. Knit lace is a good choice for a bride who wants an elegant and comfortable wedding gown.

Eyelash Lace:

Eyelash lace is a delicate French lace commonly found on bridal gowns and intimates. It gets its name from the thin, wispy threads that line the edge of the fabric, resembling eyelashes. This lace is perfect for adding a vintage flair to modern bridal gowns, especially when used at the sleeves or neckline.

Creating a pattern and cutting the lace

Start by drawing the pattern on Kraft paper. For the sleeve pattern, draw a straight line 36" long. Divide the front 15" long and the back as 21" to obtain the centre shoulder line. From this point, measure up 18" to get the sleeve length. Now, draw a curved line that gradually goes up from the back straight line to the 18" mark and then curves down to the front. This is the basic sleeve pattern.

Cut the sleeve pattern out of the lace fabric, ensuring that the edging remains intact along the outside curve. Keep the lace motifs as intact as possible and cut them out carefully. You will need about 25 extra large and small lace motifs to blend into the sleeve edges.

Arrange the cut-out motifs along the sleeve edges, overlapping them if necessary to create a seamless look. Stitch them together using a sewing machine threaded with clear thread. Set the stitch width to a small zigzag and the length to normal, with loose top and bobbin tension to avoid thread breakage.

Now, cut the rest of the gown pieces according to your chosen pattern. Ensure you have all the required pieces, including the front and back bodice, skirt panels, and any other unique design elements. Remember to cut the pieces with precise measurements, as lace fabric can be delicate and challenging to work with.

Once all the pieces are cut out, you can start assembling the gown by sewing the pieces together following your chosen design. Remember to handle the lace fabric with care to avoid any snags or damage during the construction process.

Sewing techniques for lace

Sewing a lace wedding gown can be a tricky task, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be a rewarding experience. Here are some sewing techniques specifically for lace to help you create a stunning and elegant gown.

Preparation

Before you start sewing, it is important to prepare your lace fabric properly. Wash your lace gently by hand using lukewarm water and a mild detergent, then lay it flat to dry. This will make the lace softer and easier to work with. Identify the right and wrong sides of the lace, and consider marking the wrong side with chalk to ensure you sew with the correct side facing out. If your lace has wrinkles, you may want to iron it on the lowest setting, placing a towel or cloth over the lace to protect it. When cutting your lace, cut around the edges of the major design elements, such as scalloping or flower patterns, rather than cutting straight across.

Sewing Techniques

When sewing lace, it is recommended to use a thinner, sharper needle, such as sizes 60/8, 65/9, or 70/10. A medium width and length zigzag stitch is ideal for sewing lace onto a lining or as an applique. If you are gathering lace for a skirt or dress, use a basting stitch first, then pull the fabric gently to gather it to the desired level before sewing it onto your garment. For sheer lace, it is important to pin and baste meticulously to avoid slipping and the need for unpicking. When sewing patterned lace, use tailor's tacks instead of pins to avoid snagging or creating holes.

Finishing Techniques

To finish the seams of your lace, you can bind all visible seams with bias binding. This involves encasing the fabric edge in a bias strip and stitching it down. Another technique is to sew over pattern paper or tissue paper, which will act as a lining, and then carefully tear away the paper after sewing. This will prevent the lace from getting snagged in the feed dogs of your sewing machine. For stretchy lace, a narrow zigzag stitch will prevent threads from tearing when the garment is worn.

Attaching the sleeves

Now that you have cut out the sleeves and the extra motifs, you are ready to attach the sleeves to the gown.

Placing the Sleeves

First, place the lace sleeve at the centre mark that was made at the centre shoulder line. Turn under the seam allowance and pin it in place. For the back sleeve, measure 5" from the centre back waist and use this as a direction point. Start at the shoulder line, turn under the seam allowance, and pin to the bodice as you work towards the waist. There should be approximately 7" left to hang free over the waist. For the front sleeve, use the armhole as a guide. Pin, turning under the 3/8" seam. Pin from the centre shoulder to the deepest curve of the armhole, and then pin straight down to the empire waist. There should be approximately 2" of lace to hang free.

Stitching the Sleeves

Thread your sewing machine with clear thread and set the stitch width to a small zigzag, with a normal stitch length. Set the tensions as loose as possible to maintain a nice stitch. Stitch the sleeves to the dress using the clear thread. When sewing lace with clear thread, use a small zigzag stitch to make the seams almost invisible over lace motifs. To ensure the clear thread does not break while sewing, loosen the top and bobbin tension slightly.

Accessorising the gown

Jewellery

Jewellery can add a touch of glamour and elegance to your bridal look. For example, earrings like the Abella Earrings, which feature a unique open-hoop design with a round freshwater pearl, can be the perfect addition to elevate your ensemble. The Grace Pendant, featuring the Grace Loves Lace signature mandala, is another excellent choice for a statement piece that complements low-cut gowns.

Back Accessories

If your lace wedding gown has a low back, consider accessorising it with a backpiece like the Lucine Backpiece, handcrafted exclusively for Grace Loves Lace. It features lustrous pearl strands and a baroque pearl drop, adding a unique touch to your overall look.

Anklets

Anklets are an often-overlooked accessory that can add a subtle touch of glamour to your bridal ensemble. For instance, the Grace Anklet, handcrafted with the brand's signature mandala pendant, can be styled with heels or worn barefoot for an elevated look.

Veils

A veil can be the perfect finishing touch to your lace wedding gown. Soft, ivory tulle veils like the Grace Veil or the Lumi Veil, with its delicate lace trim, can create a timeless and elegant silhouette. For a unique twist, the Pearly Long Veil gives the illusion of floating pearl droplets, adding a chic and timeless touch to your bridal ensemble.

Headbands

For a modern and chic statement, headbands like the Celeste and Elfie, adorned with delicate shell pearls, can be the perfect accessory. The Celeste Headband, with its two rows of tiered pearls, adds a touch of glamour, while the Elfie Headband features a single, winding row for a more understated look.

Remember, when accessorising your lace wedding gown, it's important to consider not only the aesthetic but also functionality and practicality. You want to feel comfortable and confident on your special day, so choose accessories that complement your gown and reflect your personal style.

Frequently asked questions