Creating A French Bustle: A Wedding Gown's Elegant Transformation

A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a type of wedding dress bustle that is formed by sets of ties made of ribbon or cotton stay tape. It is called an underbustle because the train is folded under itself and secured with ribbons tied in place, creating a two-layered hem. This bustle style is preferred by brides who want to showcase train decoration that is right below the waist area. It is also suitable for dresses with long trains or heavier fabrics.

To create a French bustle, you will need to measure the centre back seam of the gown's train from the waist to the floor and the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress. Mark the point between these two distances. Lift the centre back seam and position it against the centre of the waistline, pinning it in place. Adjust the fold so that the train is slightly off the floor. Then, lift the sides of the train and fold and pin them along each side of the back seam. Continue folding and pinning the train as needed to lift it off the floor.

Next, cut several pieces of ribbon and sew them onto the waistline of the dress. Cut more ribbon and fold it in half to create loops, which you will sew onto the underside of the dress's train. These loops will be attached to the ribbons at the waistline to secure the bustle. You can also add interfacing to reinforce the loops. Finally, tie the ribbons and loops together, adjusting the fabric to create a fuller bustle.

French bustle vs. American bustle

The American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, is a popular way to pick up the train of a wedding dress. This is done by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. It is simple for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. Brides can choose to have one statement pickup or add multiple pickup points for extra flair. This style of bustle adds drama to the back of the dress by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.

The French bustle, on the other hand, is also known as the under-bustle as it is the opposite of the American style. This technique folds the train underneath itself and hooks below, while still allowing any buttons to fall down the centre of the gown. Ribbons are often attached to connect and secure the fabric, and there can be numerous pickup points for extra flair. This type of bustle is more secure than the American bustle and is ideal for dresses with long trains or heavier fabrics. It also works well for dresses with a lot of train decoration centred below the waist as the bustle won't hide the designs. However, it can be more complicated to create and may make bridesmaids sweat on the day!

How to install a French bustle

A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a popular option for wedding gowns with train decoration below the waist area. This bustle style is preferred by brides as it sticks out less than the American bustle, creating a two-layered hem at the back. It is also ideal for dresses with long trains or heavy fabrics.

Step 1: Prepare the Materials

Before starting, ensure you have the following materials:

• Wedding/formal dress (A-line dresses with three seams at the back and a chapel train or longer work best)
• Dressform/mannequin or a friend the same size as the bride, wearing heels
• Measuring tape
• Grosgrain ribbon in three different patterns or colours (preferably)
• Sheet of felt
• Sharp straight pins
• Thin needle
• White polyester thread

Step 2: Cut and Prepare the Ribbon

Cut six one-inch squares of felt and two six-inch ribbons of each pattern or colour. Seal the ends of the ribbons with clear nail polish, glue, or by heat-sealing them over a flame. Sew a ribbon onto each felt square tightly using a lock stitch.

Step 3: Prepare the Dress

Spread a blanket on a large working area to protect the dress. Place the dressform in the middle. Adjust the measurements of the dressform to be about two inches smaller than the dress measurements to avoid stretching the fabric. Put the dress inside out on the dressform over the crinoline/petticoat, fluffing it in the dryer beforehand if possible. If the dress has beadwork, protect it by placing a sheet over the dressform first.

Step 4: Measure and Mark the Train

Find the centre seam of the train, which should be at the longest point. Measure the distance from the 'floor length' (where the hem would be without a train) to the hem of the train. Remember this measurement, and mark it on the centre seam near the buttocks area with a straight pin. Measure down from this point using the previous measurement and place another pin at the bottom. These pins will determine the centre and bottom of the pouf, which can be adjusted to your preference.

Step 5: Sew the Ribbons to the Lining

Separate the lining from the dress by ripping out the seams around the zipper or making tiny slits on either side of the zipper on the lining. Sew two ribbons of the same design/colour tightly onto the lining, with the top ribbon facing down and the bottom ribbon facing up.

Step 6: Stitch the Ribbons to the Outside Layer

Flip the dress right side out. Stitch the ribbons to the outside layer of the dress, ensuring the seam of the lining is aligned with the seam on the outer fabric. Make a few strong stitches through the ribbon, right next to the seam, so they are inconspicuous.

Step 7: Tie the Ribbons and Create Additional Points (Optional)

Flip the dress inside out again and tie the ribbons together. For dresses with long trains, you may want to distribute the weight by adding additional points. Measure from the floor to the end of the train as before, this time measuring off to the side of the centre seam by about seven or eight inches. Place straight pins to mark these points, then sew on another pair of ribbons. Sew the last pair of ribbons parallel to these, and tie the same colours/patterns together.

And there you have it! Your French bustle is now complete and ready to be shown off at the wedding!

How to tie a French bustle

A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a popular choice for brides. It is formed by sets of ties made from ribbon or cotton stay tape, or ties with corresponding loop sets. This bustle differs from the American bustle as it is done under the gown, rather than outside of it.

To tie a French bustle, you will need to lift the train of the gown and tie the ribbons underneath. The number of ribbons will depend on the style of the gown and the desired look. For example, a three-point bustle will have one ribbon in the centre, with two either side, while a four-point bustle will have two ribbons in the centre, creating two flaps.

It is recommended to have someone else tie the bustle for you, so it is best to do this out of view of your guests. It is also a good idea to do this before the reception, so you don't have to leave your guests to have your bustle tied.

French bustle for different dress styles

A French bustle, also known as an under-bustle, is a subtle and sophisticated bustle style that tucks the train of the dress neatly under the skirt. This creates a romantic, puff-like effect, adding volume to the back of the dress. This type of bustle is ideal for dresses with intricate detailing or voluminous skirts.

French Bustle for a Ball Gown:

• Measure the center back seam of the train from the waist to the floor, as well as the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress.
• Mark the midpoint between these two measurements with a pin.
• Lift the center back seam at the pin mark and position it against the center of the waistline, adjusting the fold so the train is slightly off the floor.
• Secure the train to the waistline with pins.
• Lift the sides of the train off the floor, folding and pinning them along each side of the back seam.
• Continue folding and pinning the train as needed to lift it completely off the floor.
• Sew a length of narrow grosgrain ribbon to the waistline of the dress, using the pin marks as a guide. Ensure the ribbon is securely sewn.
• Cut the ribbon into segments and fold each piece in half. Stitch these loops to the underside of the train, attaching them securely to the seam allowances.
• To bustle the dress, insert each ribbon into its corresponding loop and tie a double bow. Adjust the fabric to create a fuller look.

French Bustle for a Mermaid or Trumpet Dress:

• Follow the same initial steps as above to measure, mark, and pin the train.
• Since mermaid and trumpet dresses have more fitted silhouettes, you may need to create additional folds or pleats to lift the train completely off the floor.
• Continue with the same steps for attaching the ribbons and loops, and then bustling the dress as described above.

French Bustle for a Slim A-Line or Sheath Dress:

• For these more fitted dress styles, you may require fewer bustle points. Measure and mark the train as before, but you may only need to lift and pin the center back seam, without needing to pin the sides.
• Follow the remaining steps for sewing the ribbons and loops, and then bustling the dress as described above.

French Bustle for a Fit and Flare Gown:

• Fit and flare gowns have a dramatic flare at the bottom, so you will need to create more folds or pleats to lift the train.
• Measure, mark, and pin the train as described above.
• Create multiple folds or pleats to lift the train completely off the floor, pinning them securely.
• Sew the ribbons and loops as instructed, and then bustle the dress by tying the ribbons into bows.

Remember, a French bustle can be adapted to suit a variety of dress styles. The key is to ensure the train is neatly tucked under, creating a subtle yet elegant look that enhances the silhouette of the gown.

French bustle for different train lengths

The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is a stunning option for wedding gowns with train decoration below the waist area. This bustle style is achieved by folding the train underneath the back of the dress and securing it with ribbons or loops. The French bustle can be adapted for different train lengths by folding the train once, twice, or thrice.

For a slim skirt with a full train, you can create a French bustle with two ribbon-rigged points. This will ensure that the train is securely tucked underneath, creating a streamlined look. If you have a medium-full skirt, you can increase the number of ribbon-rigged points to four, providing more support for the heavier fabric.

For a full skirt, consider using six ribbon-rigged points to distribute the weight evenly and create a secure bustle. If your gown has a tufted train, you can also use six ribbon-rigged points to ensure that each tuft is properly secured and the train lays smoothly.

For a slim skirt with a full train in a heavier fabric like taffeta or satin, it is recommended to use two ribbon-rigged points. This will ensure that the fabric is securely held in place without adding too much bulk to the bustle.

By adjusting the number of ribbon-rigged points and the placement of the folds, you can create a French bustle that complements the style and fabric of your wedding gown, ensuring a seamless and elegant look for your special day.

Frequently asked questions