Junior Rasmussen
Adding a corset to a wedding dress can be a great way to alter a gown to better fit your body. This is a popular option for pregnant brides or brides-to-be who are concerned about weight fluctuations before their wedding. To make a corset wedding dress, you will need to choose a dress with a zipper down the back and a good fit in the bust area. You will then need to remove the zipper, create lacing loops, and sew them into the back of the dress. You can also create a modesty panel to cover any bunching at the hips. Finally, you will need to lace up the corset and enjoy your custom-fitted wedding dress!
Characteristics and Values Table for Making a Corset for a Wedding Dress
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Dress | A formal gown or dress with a zipper down the back and a good fit in the bust area. |
| Fabric | Outer fabric (e.g., raw silk) and lining fabric (e.g., coutil or strong non-stretch woven cotton). |
| Boning | Steel or spiral bones, cut to the appropriate length. Avoid cheap plastic boning. |
| Pattern | Choose a pattern that allows for a back zipper and consider the desired shape, such as the bust and waist cinching. |
| Color | Match the color to the dress. If an exact match is not possible, consider darker or lighter shades or contrasting colors. |
| Lacing Loops | Use material that matches the texture and color of the dress. Cut into 1-inch wide strips, folded and ironed flat, with a seam allowance of 1/4-inch. |
| Modesty Panel | Create a panel that is wider than the final gap in the gown. Sew and attach it to one side of the dress opening, overlapping by 1/2 inch. |
| Sewing Technique | Remove the zipper and replace it with the corset/lace-up back. Sew the loops and ties, ensuring a strong and accurate fit. |
| Fitting | Put on the dress and lace up the corset, adjusting for a perfect fit. |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right materials
The materials you choose for your wedding dress corset are important, as they will determine the overall look and feel of the dress. Here are some things to consider when choosing the right materials:
Fabric
The outer fabric of your corset should be something you like, that reflects your personal style. It should also complement the style of your wedding and the season. For example, if you're having a summer wedding, opt for lightweight and breathable fabrics such as chiffon or silk. If you want a dramatic ball gown, consider stiffer fabrics like tulle or faille silk, which can create a voluminous silhouette. If you want a more structured look, choose a thicker fabric like Mikado silk, which will hold its shape.
Colour
The colour of your corset fabric should ideally match the colour of your dress. If an exact match isn't possible, consider using a darker or lighter shade, or a contrasting colour.
Boning
Boning is essential for creating the structure of a corset. Avoid cheap plastic boning, as it can twist, buckle, and look bulky. Instead, opt for steel or spiral boning. Steel bones are best for straight seams, while spiral bones are more suitable for curved seams as they will contour to fit the shape of the corset.
Lining
For the lining, choose a strong, non-stretch woven fabric. Coutil, a cotton fabric specifically designed for corsets, is ideal. However, any sturdy cotton fabric will work. The lining fabric will provide comfort and help to create a smooth finish.
Interfacing
Interfacing is a material that adds structure and stability to the corset, particularly to the back panel where lacing will be added. It is important to select a suitable interfacing weight and type for your chosen fabric.
Lacing Loops
For the lacing loops, choose a material that matches the texture and colour of your dress. If an exact match isn't possible, consider a contrasting colour in the same material. Cut the material into strips, fold them in half lengthwise, and iron them flat before sewing them onto the dress.
Remember, it's important to choose high-quality materials that will ensure your wedding dress corset looks and feels amazing on your special day.
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Selecting the right boning
The boning you choose for your wedding dress corset is important as it acts as a skeleton for the garment, keeping it stable and ensuring it maintains its shape. The boning materials used vary in flexibility, so it is important to select the right type of boning for your corset.
Corset boning is typically made from steel, plastic, or whalebone (historically speaking). Steel boning offers more rigidity and support compared to plastic boning. If you want a solid, timeless foundation, flat steel boning is the way to go. Spiral steel boning is a good option if you require flexibility, as it is used for curved seams and will contour to fit the seams of a corset. Spiral steel boning can be used in place of whalebone, which is both bendy and strong, but hard to find and expensive. Steel boning can be used in the side or back seams, where there is no curve.
If you are looking for something that offers a balance between comfort and structure, plastic boning is a good option. You can also find plastic boning that you can slide into boning channels. However, it is worth noting that cheap plastic boning tends to twist and buckle, and can be bulky.
Another option for strong support is Rigilene boning. You can stitch this type of boning onto the inside of your garment.
When purchasing boning, it is recommended to buy bones that are 3/4" shorter than your seam. This will prevent too much stress on the fabric and reduce the risk of the boning breaking through.
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Cutting the fabric
The first step in making a corset for a wedding dress is to choose the fabric. The outer fabric can be of your choice, but it shouldn't be too delicate, or the boning will show through. Raw silk is a good option. For the lining fabric, it is best to use a strong, non-stretch woven cotton fabric, such as coutil, which is a cotton fabric specifically designed for corsets. You will also need to purchase boning—steel or spiral bones are recommended—and cut them to size. The bones should be about 3/4" shorter than your seam to prevent too much stress on the fabric.
Next, you will need to cut the fabric. If you have a dress form, you can drape the fabric over it to help you visualize the shape of the corset. Consider the desired shape of the bust and whether you want to cinch the waist. Cut the fabric with a generous seam allowance, usually about 1/2", as this will add strength when you sew the channels. Cut one set from the outer fabric and another from the lining fabric. You will also need to cut two pieces of interfacing for the back panel, which can be ironed on.
If you are adding a corset back to an existing dress, you will need to remove the zipper. You can use a seam ripper to carefully remove it. If the dress fits you well, you will also need to take some fabric out of the back in a V-shape to accommodate the corset. If the dress is too small, you can add gussets to the sides, but this may not look as professional.
To create the lacing loops, cut a strip of fabric that matches the texture and colour of your dress. The strip should be about 1" wide and the length of the corset back plus an extra 6" for additional loops. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing in, and iron it flat. Sew the strip with a 1/4" seam allowance, and then trim the raw edges so that the seam allowance is 1/8" wide.
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Sewing the corset
Sewing a corset for a wedding dress can be a fun project, but it requires careful planning and execution. Here is a step-by-step guide to sewing a corset for a wedding dress:
Choosing the Right Fabric and Boning:
Select a strong and durable fabric for the outer layer of your corset. Silk, linen, cotton, or a blend like linen cotton canvas are good options. For the lining, traditionally, coutil—a cotton fabric specifically designed for corsets—is used. You can purchase this fabric and the required boning online from specialty stores.
The boning provides structure to the corset. Spiral or steel boning is commonly used, and you can cut the bones to size or purchase them pre-cut. Remember to leave a generous seam allowance when cutting your fabric, especially if you plan to sew channels for the boning.
Creating a Pattern and Mockup:
Consider the style of your corset: whether you want an overbust or underbust design, the desired shape around the bust, and the amount of waist cinching. You can draft your own pattern or purchase one online. It is recommended to sew a mockup using cheap boning to test the fit and make any necessary alterations before constructing the final corset.
Sewing the Corset Together:
Use a sewing machine or hand-sew, following the pattern instructions. Ensure that you sew the channels for the boning securely, and insert the bones carefully. A rotary cutter and mat can be useful tools for precise cutting.
Adding Finishing Touches:
Create lacing loops by sewing strips of fabric into tubes and then cutting them into segments. You can also use eyelets and lacing tools to create a secure and adjustable lacing system. Test the fit of the corset as you work, and make any necessary adjustments.
Attaching the Corset to the Wedding Dress:
If you are adding the corset to an existing wedding dress, remove the zipper using a seam ripper, and cut away any excess fabric. Tuck the top edges of the remaining zipper into the dress and secure them. Attach the lacing loops to the back of the dress, ensuring they match the texture and color.
If you are sewing a new wedding dress, follow a pattern that allows for a gown that zips up the back and preferably includes boning. Construct the gown, and then attach the corset back as described above.
Remember to take your time, test the fit often, and enjoy the process of creating a unique and flattering corset for your wedding dress!
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Attaching the corset to the dress
Attaching a corset to a wedding dress is a great way to ensure a perfect fit. It is also a good solution if you are pregnant or if you are unable to zip up your dress.
Firstly, you will need to source the materials for the lacing loops. Choose something that matches the texture and colour of your dress. If you are unable to find the right colour, consider choosing a contrasting colour, but in the same material. Cut the material into a 1-inch wide strip. Fold it in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing in, and iron it flat. The length of the strip should be the length of the corset back you are creating, plus about 6 inches, in case you need a few more loops. Sew the strip using a ¼-inch seam allowance. Use a thread colour that matches your material. When you are done, trim the raw edges so that the seam allowance is ⅛-inch wide.
Next, sew a seam 1/4 inch from the open edge the full length of the strip, making a tube. Turn the tube right side out. There are a couple of ways to do this: put a safety pin through the end of the tube and close the pin, then push the closed safety pin through the opening of the tube until it comes out the other end. Or, sew one end closed, then use a turning stick to push that end into and through the tube to the other end and pull it through.
Now, measure the back opening length and decide how close together you want your loops to be. The loops can be as close as 1 inch apart. Pin the modesty panel to the inside of the left edge of the dress opening, overlapping by 1/2 inch. Top stitch along your stitching for the corset loops to stitch the modesty panel into place. The modesty panel is only sewn to one side. When worn, the other side lays across and stays in place once the corset is laced and tied.
Finally, put your dress on, lace up your new corset back, and enjoy the great fit!
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Frequently asked questions
You will need outer fabric (such as raw silk), lining fabric (like cotton or coutil), interfacing, spiral/steel boning, eyelets, a hammer, a sewing machine, a rotary cutter and mat, and a fabric/leather punch.
First, ensure the dress is too small by 5-6 inches or remove fabric from the back. Then, remove the zipper with a seam ripper. Next, create the lacing loops using matching material, sewing them onto the back of the dress. Finally, stitch a modesty panel to the left edge of the dress opening, ensuring it is 10 inches wider than the final gap in the gown.
Steel and spiral bones are the best options. Steel bones can be used in the side or back seams, while spiral bones are used for curved seams as they contour to fit the shape of the corset.
Start with the top left loop, running the tie across to the right loop and back to the left, inserting it into the third left loop. Continue this process down the dress, left to right to left, until you reach the bottom, where you can create a bow with the ends and tuck them inside the dress.
