Junior Rasmussen
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress is a great way to prevent the gown from getting damaged and to make it easier for the bride to move around. A bustle lifts the back of the dress off the ground, protecting it from dirt, mud, and guests accidentally stepping on it. There are several ways to add a bustle to a wedding dress, including the American bustle, French bustle, and regular bustle. The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is created by fastening the fabric of the train over the skirt using hooks or buttons. The French bustle is a more complex and time-consuming process that involves sewing ribbons to the inside of the dress to create a pouf effect. A regular bustle is achieved by folding the end of the train under the back of the dress, creating a bubble hem. While it is recommended to work with a skilled seamstress or alterations expert, it is possible to add a simple bustle to a wedding dress yourself using safety pins or dress hooks.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To allow the wearer to move freely after the wedding without the train of the dress getting in the way |
| Types | American/Overbustle, French/Underbustle, Regular Bustle |
| Materials | Buttons, hooks, loops, thread, needle, interfacing, safety pins, ribbon, lace appliqués, elastic cuff, snaps |
| Steps | Measure the dress, mark the pin, sew buttons/hooks, make button loops, fasten loops to buttons/hooks, adjust folds of fabric |
| Tips | Use strong thread, stitch securely, reinforce with interfacing, conceal buttons/hooks with lace, use safety pins on seams, tie up fabric with ribbon |
| Considerations | Weight of the dress, number of hooks/buttons, fabric type, skill level, time and cost |
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What You'll Learn
The benefits of adding a bustle to a wedding dress
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress can offer several benefits and serve multiple purposes. Firstly, it allows the bride to move around with ease, especially during the wedding reception and when dancing. A bustle helps to secure the fabric of the gown's train, preventing it from dragging on the ground and causing potential tripping hazards. This is particularly useful for dresses with long trains or heavy fabric that could hinder the bride's mobility.
Secondly, a bustle helps to protect the wedding dress from potential damage and stains. By lifting the back of the dress off the ground, the bustle ensures that the train does not drag through dirt, mud, or other substances that could soil the fabric. This is especially important if the wedding is held outdoors, where the dress could come into contact with branches, rocks, or uneven terrain.
Additionally, a bustle can enhance the overall appearance of the wedding dress. Certain bustle styles, such as the American bustle or the ballroom bustle, create a symmetrical and draped look or an illusion of no bustle at all, transforming the silhouette of the dress. This can add to the aesthetics of the gown, making it appear more elegant and polished.
Furthermore, a bustle can be a cost-effective solution for brides. While adding a bustle may incur additional expenses, it is generally more affordable than other alterations. The 1-point overbustle, for example, is a simple and inexpensive option for lighter dresses.
Lastly, a bustle can provide peace of mind for the bride on her wedding day. With the train securely bustled, the bride can focus on enjoying her special day without worrying about tripping or damaging her dress. It also ensures that guests will not accidentally step on the train, which could cause discomfort or disruption during the event.
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How to attach a bustle to a wedding dress
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress is a great way to prevent damage to the dress and its train. It can also allow the wearer to move more freely. There are several ways to attach a bustle to a wedding dress, and the method you choose will depend on the style of the dress and the weight of the train. Here is a step-by-step guide to attaching a bustle to a wedding dress:
Prepare the Dress:
Firstly, put the dress on a dress form or mannequin, preferably with a sheet between the dress and the form if there is a lot of beadwork. If you don't have access to a dress form, you can ask a friend who is a similar size to the wearer to wear the dress with heels. Ensure the dress is inside out.
Measure the Train:
Find the centre seam of the train, which should be the longest point, and flatten it to see how long the train is. Measure from the "floor length" (where the hem would be without a train) to the hem of the train. Mark this measurement on the centre seam near the buttocks with a straight pin.
Attach Buttons or Hooks:
Secure the bustle by sewing buttons or hooks along the waistline of the dress. Place these wherever you made pin marks. Stitch securely and consider adding a small piece of interfacing under each button or hook for reinforcement. If using hooks, sew them along the seam of the dress, with an odd number on each side and one on the centre seam.
Make Button Loops:
Use strong thread to create button loops. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train where you want the loop to be. Insert the needle next to the seam line, pull it through the interfacing and train, and make a small backstitch from the right side of the train. Pull the thread to create a loop that reaches 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm).
Fasten the Loops:
Once the loops are added, fasten them to the buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of fabric to create a fuller, more voluminous bustle. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them.
Alternative Method:
Another option for attaching a bustle is to sew a loop to the back of the dress and a button above it. Sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress and the button 1 foot above the bride's knees. This is a simple and cheap method for lighter dresses.
Tips:
It is recommended to work with a skilled seamstress or alterations expert when adding a bustle to a wedding dress. Additionally, always use sturdy safety pins on seams when bustling a dress, as this part of the dress is stronger and less likely to tear.
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Different types of bustles
A wedding dress bustle is an important feature for any gown with a train, as it helps to secure the fabric of the gown's train, allowing the wearer to move around with ease and preventing the dress from getting dirty or damaged. There are several types of bustles to choose from, and the right style of bustle will depend on the silhouette of the dress. Here are some of the most common types of bustles:
Traditional or Over Bustle
The traditional or over bustle is a classic style that is popular among brides. The outside of the train is secured near the waistline, creating a cascading effect. It works well with many types of bridal gown silhouettes, including A-line, ball gown, and mermaid styles, and is especially beautiful with a cathedral train. This variation of the over bustle involves fastening the train at multiple points over the skirt, resulting in a dramatic and voluminous look.
French Bustle (Under Bustle)
The French bustle, also known as the under bustle, is ideal for gowns with embellishments near the waist. It is less suitable for dresses with intricate details near the hemline, as these will be less visible once the bustle is applied. This style is best for dresses with minimal trains, as the train tucks under the silhouette of the gown. Ribbons can be attached to connect and secure the fabric, with multiple pick-up points for added flair.
American Bustle
The American bustle is similar to the traditional bustle, with the fabric folding over instead of under, and is best suited for dresses with fairly long trains. Loops or hooks are added along the waistline, and when the train is fastened at multiple points, it creates the look of elegant pleats at the waist.
Ballroom Bustle
The ballroom bustle completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress, giving the illusion of no bustle at all. The train of the dress flips under the fabric and is pinned into itself, creating the appearance of a floor-length gown with an even fuller bottom due to the extra fabric attached underneath.
Wrist Loop
The wrist loop is an alternative style where the train is attached to the wrist so that it can be lifted, providing a dramatically different approach to managing the gown's train. This option is more suitable for simple, lightweight dresses with modest trains, as heavy fabric or full skirts can be burdensome to handle.
Bow Type
For dresses that feature a statement bow at the back, the bow-type bustle folds the fabric above the gown and attaches it beneath the bow, showcasing this beautiful feature. This look is simple and sweet and works well with lace and satin gowns.
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The importance of using safety pins
Safety pins are an essential component of a wedding dress bustle. They serve multiple purposes, from marking the bustle points to providing backup support in case of emergencies. Here is why safety pins are crucial when creating a bustle for a wedding dress:
Marking Bustle Points
Safety pins can be used temporarily to mark the points where the actual bustle will be created. They are a quick and easy way to visualize the placement of buttons, hooks, or loops before sewing them onto the dress. This helps ensure that the bustle will be correctly positioned and secured before finalizing the alterations.
Backup Support and Quick Fixes
Safety pins are invaluable in case of last-minute emergencies or adjustments. For example, if a ribbon comes loose from a bustle, a safety pin can be used to quickly secure the dress together at the broken point, preventing any accidental tears or further damage. It is always a good idea to have sturdy safety pins on hand in the bridal suite for such unforeseen circumstances.
Creating a Temporary Bustle
In some cases, safety pins can be used to create a temporary bustle, especially in situations where time or budget constraints do not allow for more permanent solutions. While not ideal, safety pins can hold the weight of the dress temporarily, allowing the bride to walk, dance, and move around comfortably during the reception. However, there is a risk of the pins eventually giving way under the weight of the dress, so this should only be a short-term solution.
Discreet Support
Safety pins can also be used discreetly to provide additional support to the bustle. For example, in an American bustle, safety pins can be used along with hooks to distribute the weight of a heavy train more evenly, reducing the risk of the bustle breaking.
In conclusion, safety pins play a vital role in creating a wedding dress bustle, offering flexibility, backup support, and peace of mind. While they should not be the primary method of securing a bustle, they are invaluable for marking, adjusting, and reinforcing the bustle as needed.
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How to conceal the bustle
A bustle is an important part of any wedding gown with a train. It lifts the train off the floor, protecting the fabric from damage and preventing tripping hazards. While professional seamstresses typically handle the initial bustle setup, you can cut costs by bustling your gown yourself.
If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them. Be sure to stock up on safety pins, placing them on seams as this part of the dress is stronger and less likely to tear out. Another option is to use ribbon between the safety pins to tie up any fabric that doesn't have good anchor points.
If you're handy with a needle and thread, you can sew a loop to the back of the dress and a button above it. Sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress using a secure knot. Then, sew the button 1 foot above the bride's knees. Stitch it four times and make two knots to ensure it's secure. Now you'll be able to hook the loop over the button to lift the train off the floor. This is the simplest and cheapest way to bustle your dress, but it isn't recommended for heavier dresses.
For a seamless transition from ceremony to reception, the ballroom bustle elegantly conceals the length of the train by tucking it under the gown, making it appear as though the dress has no train at all. This style is perfect for formal weddings and structured gowns with heavy fabrics.
The train-flip bustle, or flip-over bustle, is another simple and modern approach. This style flips the train up and secures it at the waist, making it comfortable to wear and ideal for brides seeking a minimalist look.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a custom-made feature that can be added to a wedding dress to lift the train off the floor, allowing the wearer to move freely and prevent the dress from getting damaged or dirty.
There are three overarching styles of bustles: the regular or "under" bustle, the over or "American" bustle, and the French bustle. The regular bustle is created by folding the train under the back of the dress, resulting in a bubble hem and a fuller skirt. The over bustle is created by attaching the midpoint of the train to a button or hook on the upper back of the dress, with the train draped over the skirt. The French bustle is a more complex variation that involves sewing ribbons to the inside of the dress to create a more structured and voluminous look.
To add a simple 1-point overbustle to your wedding gown, sew a loop to the back of the dress and a button about a foot above the bride's knees. After the ceremony, the loop can be hooked over the button to lift the train off the floor.
Yes, if you are short on time or would rather not sew, you can use sturdy safety pins to create a makeshift bustle. Place the safety pins on the seams of the dress, as this part is stronger and less likely to tear. You can also use ribbon between the safety pins to tie up any loose fabric.
