Creating A Corset Back Wedding Gown: A Step-By-Step Guide

A corset back wedding gown is a great option for brides who want the flexibility of adjusting their dress to fit their body perfectly. This style of gown offers a more accurate fit by allowing the bride to tighten or loosen the dress as needed. Creating a corset back wedding gown typically involves removing the back zipper and replacing it with a lace-up corset closure. This alteration can be done by a professional seamstress or as a DIY project. The process includes making or purchasing the lacing for the corset loops, sewing the loops onto the dress, and creating a modesty panel to provide coverage. The final step is to lace up the corset and enjoy the beautiful and flexible fit of your wedding gown!

Removing the zipper

Firstly, use a seam ripper to remove the zipper. Start at the top of the zipper and work your way down. Be careful not to damage the fabric of the gown as you remove the stitches holding the zipper in place. Remove any loose threads once you have detached the zipper.

Next, cut off the excess zipper tape, leaving enough tape to fold down, similar to when installing a new zipper. This will be covered by the lining later. If your gown does not have a lining, you can use satin ribbon to cover the raw edges of the zipper tape.

Now, you will create three items: a modesty panel, ties, and loops for the ties. These are relatively simple to make and will be used to complete the corset back alteration.

For the modesty panel, cut a wide wedge V-shape from your matching fabric. Fold the fabric with the top of the wedge on the fold line, then cut a wide V-shape that is wider and slightly longer than the width and length of the dress opening. The basic shape will look like a gusset but with straight top and bottom edges instead of a pointed end. Before sewing the sides and bottom closed, add covered boning to one side of the panel for stability. You can also add a heavy interfacing instead of boning. Sew the modesty panel to the left side of the dress, leaving the right side loose.

To make the ties, cut 1.5-inch wide fabric strips on the bias. You will need about 6-8 strips for the lacing and back tie. Sew the strips together to create one long continuous strip, then fold it in half lengthwise and sew a seam 1/4 inch from the open edge to create a tube. Turn the tube right side out using a safety pin or a turning stick. The finished tie should be about 1/2 inch wide and about three yards long.

Finally, create the loops. Cut 2-inch strips of fabric and fold them in half, pinning or clipping them in place on the back of the dress. Make sure the loops are facing away from the centre and that both sides match. Baste into place, then fold over so that the loops face towards the centre of the dress and topstitch. Sew all the way down to the zipper.

Now that you have removed the zipper and created the necessary components, you are ready to assemble the corset back and complete your wedding gown alteration!

Making the loops

Now, let's make the loops!

First, decide how long you want your loops to be. One source suggests cutting the loops about one and a quarter inches long, as this will be long enough to be strong and secure. However, you can always trim the loops down later, so it may be helpful to make them a little longer, perhaps up to two inches.

Next, decide how many loops you want. Typically, corset loops are spaced about one and a half inches apart, but you can adjust this spacing as you see fit. Don't forget that you will need loops on both sides, so once you've decided how many loops you want on one side, double that number.

Now, cut your fabric into strips. You can use ribbon, cording, or strips of fabric. If you're using fabric, cut your strips on the bias, which means cutting at a 45-degree angle to the selvage. You'll need enough strips to make your loops, plus some extra for the back tie. Fold one of these strips in half lengthwise, with the right sides of the fabric together. Sew a seam about a quarter of an inch from the open edge along the full length of the strip, creating a tube. Repeat this process for as many loops as you need.

Turn your tubes right-side out. You can use a safety pin to do this: close the pin and push it through the tube until it comes out the other end. Alternatively, you can sew one end of the tube closed, then use a turning stick to push that end into and through the tube to the other end.

Now, cut your strips into segments for the loops. The length of these segments will depend on the length of your loops and the spacing you've chosen. For example, if your loops are one and a quarter inches long and spaced one inch apart, you'll need segments that are two and a half inches long.

Cut two pieces of interfacing that are about one inch wide and the length of your dress's back opening. Fold these strips in half lengthwise to make them sturdier, then sew each loop segment onto the interfacing, creating loops in each marked space. Sew about a quarter of an inch from the edge of the interfacing, lining up the edges of each segment with the open edge of the folded interfacing.

Now, it's time to attach the loops to your dress. Sandwich the interfacing with loops between the top layer of fabric and the lining of the dress where the zipper used to be, and pin or clip it in place. Top stitch about an eighth of an inch from the edge of the opening, sewing the loops into place. Repeat this process on the other side.

Making the modesty panel

Cutting the Fabric:

• Measure the gap at the top of the back opening of your dress. For instance, if it is 10 inches wide, that will be the top width of your modesty panel.
• Measure the length of the back opening. Add 3 or more inches to both your width and length measurements to determine the size of your modesty panel. For instance, if the length of the opening is 12 inches, add a few inches to get the length of the panel. A larger panel provides more coverage and stability.
• For the bottom width of the panel, taper it in by a couple of inches on each side to create a triangular or trapezoidal shape. This reduces bulkiness under the dress.
• Using your measurements, cut out two layers of fabric for the modesty panel, ensuring they are identical in size and shape.

Sewing the Modesty Panel:

• Pin the two fabric pieces together, with right sides facing each other.
• Sew a seam around the sides and top of the modesty panel, leaving a small opening at the bottom for turning. Use a 1/4 to 1/2 inch seam allowance for a neat finish.
• Turn the panel right side out and press the edges flat with an iron.
• Fold and press the bottom edge of the panel by about 1/2 inch, encasing the raw edge.
• Topstitch along the bottom edge to close the opening and create a neat finish.

Attaching the Modesty Panel:

• Try on your dress and determine which side of the back opening you want the modesty panel attached to. Typically, it is attached to the left side, with the right side left loose.
• Pin the left edge of the modesty panel to the inside of the left edge of the dress opening, overlapping it by about 1/2 inch.
• Topstitch along the edge, sewing the modesty panel securely in place. Ensure your stitching also catches the corset loops to provide extra stability.

Optional Features:

• The modesty panel can be made removable by attaching snaps, velcro, or ties to one side. This allows the bride to detach it if desired.
• For added reinforcement, especially if the corset back is meant to provide significant support, consider adding boning to the modesty panel. This can be done by stitching boning pieces to the panel before attaching it to the dress.

Sewing the loops and modesty panel in place

Preparing the Loops:

• Cut fabric strips on the bias, approximately 1.5 inches wide. The exact width may vary depending on your preference and the fabric's properties. Cutting on the bias involves cutting the fabric at a 45-degree angle to the selvage, resulting in more stretch and flexibility.
• Fold one of the longer strips in half lengthwise, with right sides together, so that the wrong side of the fabric is visible on the outside. Sew a seam about 1/4 inch from the open edge along the full length of the strip to create a tube.
• Turn the tube right side out using a safety pin or a turning stick. This step can be tricky, so take your time to avoid damaging the fabric.
• Measure the back opening length and decide on the spacing of your loops. Cut the lacing into segments accordingly. For example, if your loops are spaced 1 inch apart, and you have a 12-inch opening, you'll need 11 segments.
• Cut interfacing strips that are about 1 inch wide and the same length as your opening. Fold these strips in half lengthwise to add stability.
• Mark the spacing of your loops on the interfacing. Sew each lacing segment onto the interfacing, creating loops at each marked space. Sew close to the edge of the interfacing, lining up the edges of the segments.

Sewing the Loops and Modesty Panel:

• Sandwich the interfacing with loops between the top dress fabric and the lining where the zipper was previously located. Pin or clip it in place.
• Topstitch close to the edge of the opening, sewing the loops securely in place. Repeat this process for the other side, ensuring symmetry and evenness.
• Try on the dress and measure the width of the gap at the top of the back opening. This measurement will be crucial for creating the modesty panel.
• Measure the length of the opening as well, and add a few inches to both measurements to determine the top width and length of the modesty panel. For example, if your gap is 10 inches wide and the opening is 12 inches long, you might make the modesty panel 13 inches wide by 13 inches long.
• For the bottom width of the modesty panel, taper it in a bit on each side to create a triangular or trapezoidal shape. This will help reduce bulkiness under the dress.
• Cut out two layers of the modesty panel using your fabric. Pin the two pieces right sides together and sew a seam around the sides and top, leaving the bottom open.
• Flip the panel right side out, press the edges flat, and fold the bottom edge in, pressing it again. Topstitch along the bottom edge to close it neatly.
• Pin the modesty panel to one side of the dress opening, overlapping the edge by about 1/2 inch. Topstitch along the previous stitching line to secure the modesty panel in place.

The modesty panel is typically sewn to only one side of the dress, allowing the other side to lay across and stay in place once the corset is laced and tied. Ensure that the loops and modesty panel are securely sewn and able to withstand the stress of lacing and tying.

Making the lacing

Materials

First, gather the necessary materials. You will need a dress with a zipper back, matching fabric, medium to heavy-weight interfacing, a rotary cutter and mat or scissors, and a turning stick or safety pin. If you plan to create your own lacing, you will also need fabric strips cut on the bias, approximately 1.5 inches wide. This can be done by cutting your fabric at a 45-degree angle to the selvage.

Lacing for the Corset Loops

Create the lacing for the corset loops by folding one of the longer fabric strips in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Sew a seam 1/4 inch from the open edge along the full length of the strip, forming a tube. Next, turn the tube right side out using a safety pin or turning stick.

Determine the spacing of your loops by measuring the back opening length. Cut the lacing into segments; for loops spaced 1 inch apart, cut 2.5-inch segments. Cut interfacing strips to the length of your opening and fold them in half lengthwise for added stability. Sew each segment onto the interfacing, creating loops spaced evenly apart.

Attaching the Loops

Sandwich the interfacing with loops between the top dress fabric and the dress lining where the zipper was, pinning or clipping it in place. Top stitch close to the edge of the opening, sewing the loops securely in place. Repeat this process for the other side.

Creating the Tie

To create the tie for your corset back, join the bias strips together by laying one strip on your table with the right side up and placing another strip on top with right sides together. Sew from the top right corner to the bottom left corner, trim off the excess, open the seam, and press it with an iron. Continue joining the remaining strips to create a long, continuous bias strip.

Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, with right sides together, and sew a seam 1/4 inch from the open edge to create a tube. Turn the tube right side out and try on your dress to determine the optimal length for the lace-up. Trim the excess fabric and finish the ends by turning them up inside the tube and topstitching across each opening.

Final Steps

Put on your dress and lace up the corset back, enjoying the flexibility and perfect fit it provides. This alteration is a beautiful and functional solution for dresses that are too tight or difficult to zip up.

Frequently asked questions