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A wedding dress train is a gorgeous addition to a wedding gown, but it can be hard to move around in, especially on the dance floor. This is where a wedding dress bustle comes in. A bustle uses a system of stitches, pins, ties, buttons, or hooks to secure the train to the back of the dress, keeping it out of the way and making it easier to move in. There are several different types of bustles, but the easiest is a one-button bustle. This article will discuss the different types of bustles and how to hold a wedding dress train.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train to the back of the dress, making it easier to move in |
| Who does it? | Seamstress or bridal stylist |
| When to do it | Between the wedding and the reception |
| Techniques | Buttons, hooks, ties, loops, stitches, pins, Trainloop |
| Types of bustles | American, French, one-point overbustle |
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What You'll Learn
Maid of Honour's role in holding the train
The Maid of Honour has a crucial role to play in making sure the bride's train is looking its best. Before the bride walks down the aisle, the Maid of Honour should make any final touches to the train and veil. This could include bustling the train, which is a technique used to secure the train off the ground and into the back of the gown, giving the bride freedom of movement. This is often done with hooks, ties, buttons, or loops, and a seamstress will usually demonstrate how to do this during the final fitting. The Maid of Honour should practise this beforehand so that they can confidently adjust the train when the bride takes her spot at the altar.
The Maid of Honour should also be on hand to help the bride with her dress throughout the day, fluffing and adjusting the train and veil as needed. This includes helping the bride with any last-minute changes to the gown, such as lifting and hooking up the train for the first dance. It is important for the Maid of Honour to stay calm and follow the seams when adjusting the train, and they can always ask for help from the wedding planner if needed.
In addition to these specific duties relating to the train, the Maid of Honour has a broader role in supporting the bride and ensuring she looks and feels her best. This includes providing emotional support, helping to manage the bridal party, and being a sounding board for ideas and decisions. The Maid of Honour is also often involved in the wedding planning process, offering differing ideas and opinions, and may accompany the bride to dress fittings and offer encouragement.
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Using hooks, ties, or buttons
Wedding dresses do not come with pre-made bustles, but a seamstress can sew hooks, ties, or buttons onto the back of the dress to help create one. A bustle is a way to secure the train off the ground and into the back of the dress, allowing for more freedom of movement.
One type of bustle is the royal or Victorian bustle, which can be simple or elaborate. This style usually has one pickup point with one hook and eyelet to lift the train. However, multiple pickup points can be added for a more dramatic look, with folds adding dimension to the silhouette. Another type of bustle is the bow bustle, where the fabric is folded above the gown and secured with ties hidden under the bow. This allows the fabric to lift symmetrically from the visual point of the bow.
To create a bustle with buttons, you can follow these steps:
- Put the wedding dress on the bride or a dress form that matches her height.
- Find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin.
- Pinch a small spot of fabric halfway down the train, lift it to the straight pin, and adjust the train so that the hem falls as desired.
- Attach the button by placing a safety pin on the back of the dress, about a foot above the bride's knees, or at the waist of the dress.
- Thread the needle and knot the end, then thread it through the underside of the dress and stitch the button securely in place.
- Secure the button by running the needle and thread through to the other side and making two knots before cutting off any excess thread.
- Sew a loop of thread on the train of the dress, big enough to fit the button.
- Once the loop is added, hook it over the button to lift the train off the floor.
If you prefer to use hooks and eyes, or ribbon ties, these can also be sewn onto the dress to create a bustle.
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Sewing a loop
To begin, put on the wedding dress or use a dress form that matches the bride-to-be's height. Find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Next, pinch a small spot of fabric halfway down the train and lift it up to the straight pin, adjusting the train so that the hem falls as desired. Once you are happy with the drape and length, mark this spot on the train with another straight pin.
Now you are ready to sew the loop. Start by threading your needle with strong thread, doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Tie a knot at the end of the thread to secure it. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress at the marked spot and pull the thread through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through, creating a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through, creating a secure knot.
After sewing the loop, you can add a button or hook above it to complete the overbustle. Sew the button or hook securely, stitching multiple times and making multiple knots to ensure it can bear the weight of the train. If using a button, you can cover it with lace or another fabric appliqué for a more discreet look.
For an alternative method, you can sew a loop of fabric or ribbon to the CB seam near the hem of the dress. This loop can be threaded to the right side and slipped over the bride's finger to hold up the train. This method is quick and easy, allowing the bride to manage her train without assistance.
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Attaching buttons or hooks
Firstly, put the wedding dress on the bride-to-be or a dress form that is the same height. Then, find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Next, pinch a small spot of fabric about halfway down the train and lift it up to the straight pin, adjusting the folds of fabric so that the hem falls as desired. This is where you will attach the button or hook.
To attach buttons or hooks, you will need to sew them onto the dress. You can sew a loop to the back of the dress and a button above it, or alternatively, sew the button onto the waist of the dress and the loop onto the train. Make sure to stitch securely, and consider adding additional reinforcement with a small piece of interfacing under each button or hook. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top to conceal them.
Once the buttons and loops are in place, you can hook the loop over the button to lift the train off the floor. This method is simple and inexpensive, but it is important to note that it is not recommended for heavier dresses or dresses with particularly long trains.
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Types of bustles
A wedding dress bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress to lift and secure the train off the ground, allowing the bride to move around and dance freely. There are several types of bustles to choose from, each with its own unique style and functionality. Here are some of the most common types of wedding dress bustles:
- Traditional or Over Bustle: This classic style is one of the most popular choices among brides. The outside of the train is secured near the waistline, creating a cascading effect. It works well with various gown silhouettes, including A-line, ball gowns, and mermaid styles, and is especially flattering with a cathedral train.
- French or Under Bustle: The French bustle, also known as the under bustle, is perfect for gowns with embellishments near the waist. It is simple and elegant, particularly complementing lace and satin gowns.
- Royal Bustle: For an elaborate, vintage-inspired look, the royal bustle is an excellent choice. It involves gathering the train and affixing it to the dress at several points, creating dramatic folds that add visual interest to the gown. This style pairs beautifully with A-line and ball gown silhouettes.
- Ballroom Bustle: The ballroom bustle creates the illusion of wearing two separate dresses. It makes the train visually disappear, resulting in a playful and flirty look with a shorter hemline. This option may make the dress look fuller, resembling a ball gown.
- American Bustle: While not much information about this style was found, it is mentioned as an option by Davids Bridal.
- Bow Bustle: This style is ideal for dresses with a statement bow at the back. The fabric is folded above the gown and attached beneath the bow, showcaseing the beautiful feature.
It is important to consult with a skilled seamstress who can recommend the best type of bustle for your gown's silhouette, the amount of fabric, and your desired look. They will also guide you in choosing the right hooks, ties, buttons, loops, or ribbons to create your desired bustle effect.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle secures the train to the back of the dress, making it easier to move around in. A long train can restrict your movement and a bustle will give you more freedom to walk and dance.
A bustle is usually an alteration done after the gown is purchased. It is not usually included in the cost of the dress, so you may want to do it yourself or ask your seamstress for advice during your wedding dress alteration appointment.
There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, which is good for ball gowns or longer trains, and the French bustle, which suits a mermaid or trumpet-shaped dress.
First, put on the dress or use a dress form of the same height. Mark the middle back of the waist with a pin. Lift the train to this pin and adjust the hem. Sew a loop at the height of the pin and stitch a button or hook to secure the train.
The MOH is in charge of keeping the bride's veil and train arranged gracefully. This includes helping to keep the train off the ground before the ceremony and making subtle adjustments to the train as the bride walks down the aisle.
For more information, you can refer to guides and videos online, which provide visual tutorials on how to hold and adjust a wedding dress train.
