Lyla Dejesus
Horsehair braid is a type of crinoline netting that provides structure and volume to hems, hats, and sleeves. It is often used in formal and special occasion dresses, such as wedding dresses, to give shape to the bottom of the dress. When added to a hemline, horsehair braid can transform a flat skirt hem into a full-looking, stylized finish. In this discussion, we will explore the steps and techniques for hemming a wedding dress using horsehair braid, including marking the hem, stitching the braid, and achieving the desired volume and style. We will also address common challenges and share tips for a beautiful and crisp finish.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| What is horsehair braid? | Horsehair braid is a type of crinoline netting made from nylon or polyester that provides structure and volume to hems, hats, and sleeves. |
| Where to buy horsehair braid? | Local fabric stores, Amazon, JoAnn's |
| How to hem a wedding dress with horsehair braid? | 1. Cut the main fabric and lining to the same length, allowing for the width of the braid as hem allowance. 2. Mark the desired finished line of the hem with pins and line the braid up below, trimming off excess fabric. 3. Stitch the outer edge of the braid to the hem, narrower than the desired seam allowance. 4. Cut the lining to the correct length, pinning any excess fabric from the previous step. 5. Sew the skirt to the lining, offsetting the seam. 6. Turn the dress right side out and finger-press the new hems. 7. Remove basting and steam lightly. 8. Add the braid back by stitching it to the hem seam allowance. |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right width of horsehair braid
Horsehair braid is available in a variety of widths, ranging from 1/2" to 6" wide. The width you choose will depend on the desired look and volume of the skirt. If you want a very full skirt, a wider horsehair braid will add more body and volume to the skirt. However, using a very wide horsehair braid can sometimes be noticeable, with a visible line where the fabric falls over the top edge of the braid.
For a subtle look, a narrower horsehair braid of 1/2" to 1" can be used. This width acts more as a facing and stabilizer for the hem, providing a crisp finish without adding too much volume. If you are hemming a circle skirt, a narrower braid can be shaped to better fit the hem by pulling on the loops at the top edge.
When determining the width of the horsehair braid, it is also important to consider the type of fabric and the desired length of the dress. For example, if you are working with a long evening dress that needs to be shortened, adding a horsehair braid may affect the length. Additionally, certain fabrics may require finishing the bottom edge before attaching the horsehair braid to prevent fraying.
To ensure the correct width is chosen, it is recommended to add the horsehair braid to the underlining or lining of the skirt. This will provide volume while making the braid less noticeable. Mark the finished line of the hem with pins, and line up the braid below the pins before trimming off any excess fabric. By adding the braid to the lining, you can achieve the desired volume while minimizing the visibility of the braid.
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Cutting the fabric and lining to size
To begin hemming a wedding dress with horsehair braid, you will need to cut your fabric and lining to size. This process will involve several steps, and it is important to note that the lining will be cut shorter than the main fabric. Here is a detailed guide to help you through the process:
Firstly, cut your main fabric and lining to the same length. It is important to ensure that you allow for the width of the horsehair braid when determining your hem allowance. This extra length will accommodate the braid and ensure a precise fit. By cutting the fabric and lining to the same length initially, you can easily track the amount you need to trim later without relying on memory. This method helps maintain accuracy throughout the project.
Next, mark the desired finished line of your hem using pins. This step will help you visualise the final product and ensure precise cutting and trimming. Once you have marked the hem line, line up your braid just below the pins. Secure the braid in place with pins as well, creating a stable base for the next steps.
Now, it's time to trim the excess fabric. Carefully cut away any fabric that extends beyond the pinned line, ensuring a neat and precise finish. It is important to retain the offcuts, as you will need them later to match up with your lining. This step is crucial for achieving a professional-looking result.
After trimming the excess fabric, it's important to calculate the necessary adjustments for your lining. This step will ensure that your lining is the correct length relative to the braid and the main fabric. Take into account the width of your braid, the seam allowance, and any excess fabric previously cut off. Make the necessary calculations to determine how much length to cut off your lining. This step ensures that all components of your dress come together harmoniously.
Finally, cut your lining to the correct length. This step will involve trimming the lining fabric according to the calculations made in the previous step. Remember to pin any excess fabric cut off in the previous step onto the corresponding section of the lining. This will help you visualise how the dress will come together and ensure that your hem is even and well-proportioned.
By following these steps, you will have successfully cut your fabric and lining to size, ready for the next stages of hemming your wedding dress with horsehair braid. Remember to take your time, work carefully, and refer to professional tutorials or advice if needed.
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Stitching the braid to the hem
Horsehair braid is a type of crinoline netting that provides structure to hems, hats, and sleeves. It is usually made from nylon or polyester and can be purchased from local fabric stores or online. The braid can be sewn into the hem of a wedding dress to provide a beautiful, crisp finish.
Firstly, determine the width of the horsehair braid needed. The braid comes in various widths, and the appropriate width depends on the style and fabric of the dress. For a floor-length skirt that needs to flare out, a wider braid is recommended. For softer fabrics that still require some shape, a narrower braid is more suitable.
Secondly, mark the hem of the skirt by folding and pinning it. Ensure that the braid is positioned below the pins, and trim off any excess fabric. The braid should be a little narrower than your desired seam allowance. For example, if your seam allowance is 10mm, and your braid is 28mm wide, you will need to cut the lining 36mm shorter to account for the fold and seam allowance.
Next, stitch the outer edge of the braid to the hem. This can be done by hand or by machine, depending on your preference and the fabric type. Ensure that you stitch just inside the edge of the braid, following the line of pins, to create a neat finish.
Once the braid is securely stitched to the hem, you can press a firm crease into the fabric. Turn the dress to the right side and push the braid into the hem, being careful not to stretch the braid. This will help to create a crisp, structured finish.
Finally, some dressmakers recommend enclosing the braid within the hem by sewing the lining closed over it. This step ensures that no hand stitching is visible on the outside of the dress. The weight of the skirt will help hold the hem and the enclosed braid in place.
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Attaching the lining
Cutting the Fabric
Before you begin attaching the lining, it is essential to cut your main fabric and lining to the same length. Don't forget to account for the width of the horsehair braid as your hem allowance. The lining will be trimmed shorter later, but it's good to keep track of the length. Mark the finished line of your hem with pins, and on the inside of the skirt, align your braid just below the pinned line. Trim off any excess fabric, retaining the offcuts to match with your lining.
Enclosing the Braid
If you want to enclose the braid within the hem, with no visible hand stitching, follow these steps: Push the braid into the hem, creating a firm crease. The weight of the skirt will hold the hem in place. Ensure all excess lining is removed to prevent bagging over the hem.
Stitching Techniques
There are a few options for stitching the lining:
- You can stitch the other edge of the horsehair to the lining.
- For a hand-stitched hem, stitch inside the hem allowance, with one edge on the hem fold, ensuring the hem is the same width as the horsehair. Then, fold and hand-stitch the hem.
- Alternatively, you can stitch a lace hem tape to the edge of the hem for a stylish finish.
Working with Tulle
If your wedding dress features tulle, there is a specific method for attaching the horsehair braid to this fabric. Attach the braid to the "right" side of the tulle layer and then flip it inward. Stitch the top of the horsehair to the "wrong" side of the tulle. This ensures a clean, neat finish.
Tips and Tricks
- Horsehair braid can be sharp when cut, so consider encasing the ends in lightweight fabric to protect your skin.
- When working with multiple layers, sew those layers together so the horsehair loops back and can be seamlessly covered at the back.
- If your dress has curves, such as a train, fold back the braid and mark with a pin where the seam goes to ensure the seams align.
- For delicate fabrics like satin, use smaller stitches to prevent them from showing.
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Pressing the hem
Prepare the Fabric and Braid
Before pressing the hem, you need to cut your fabric and lining to the desired length, ensuring they are the same length. Then, mark out the finished line of your hem with pins. Line up the horsehair braid below this line and pin it in place. Trim any excess fabric, keeping the offcuts for later. The horsehair braid will provide structure and volume to the hem of your wedding dress. It is typically made from nylon or polyester and comes in various widths, so choose the appropriate width for your project.
Stitch the Braid
Stitch the outer edge of the braid to the hem, slightly narrower than your desired seam allowance. This will ensure that the stitches are not visible from the outside. You can use a sewing machine or hand stitch, depending on your preference and the fabric you are working with.
Press the Hem
Now it's time to press the hem. Turn the dress to the right side and push the braid into the hem. Use an iron to press a firm crease into the hem, creating a crisp finish. Be careful to avoid stretching the braid while pressing. You can use steam to help set the crease, but be sure to test on a small area first to avoid any potential damage to the fabric.
Final Adjustments
Once the hem is pressed, you can make any final adjustments. Try on the dress to check the hem's placement and make any necessary alterations. If you are happy with the hem, carefully trim away any remaining excess fabric or lining. The weight of the skirt will help hold the hem in place, and by removing the excess lining, you will avoid any bagging over the hem.
Additional Tips
If you are working with a circle skirt or a skirt with bias-cut sections, remember that the lining and main fabric may need to be levelled separately. Additionally, if you are using a bagged hem, you may need to remove the braid before marking and stitching the hem, and then add it back by stitching it to the hem seam allowance. Always test your techniques on a small area first to ensure they work with your fabric and do not cause any damage.
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