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Hemming a wedding dress is a common alteration, as most dresses will need to be adjusted to the bride's height. The process can be complex, especially if the dress has multiple layers, a train, or intricate details such as lace or beading. To hem a wedding dress from the waist, the waist seam is opened, the skirt is lifted, and the excess fabric is cut off before resewing the skirt at the new length. This method is often chosen over hemming from the bottom to preserve the flow and details of the dress. It is recommended to use a professional seamstress or tailor for wedding dress alterations to avoid costly mistakes.
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What You'll Learn
Deconstructing the dress at the waist
Prepare the Dress and Identify the Waistline:
Start by laying the dress flat on a clean surface and identifying the waistline. This is usually the narrowest part of the dress, just above the skirt. If the dress has a well-defined waistline with gathers or embellishments like lace at the seam, it is a good candidate for waist hemming.
Measure and Pin the Desired Length:
Have the bride wear the shoes she plans to wear on her wedding day. Stand on a tall box, platform, or table, and measure from the waistline down to the desired length. This could be just touching the floor or slightly above it, depending on the bride's preference. Pin the hem at the desired length, ensuring it is even all around.
Remove the Skirt from the Bodice:
Carefully detach the skirt from the bodice of the dress. This may involve removing any zippers or other attachments between the two sections. Keep all the lining layers of the skirt together, as you will need to reattach them later.
Measure and Cut the Excess Fabric:
Measure up from the centre front bottom of the skirt to the desired length. Pin this new hem in place, measuring and marking all the way around the top of the skirt. Carefully cut off the excess fabric from the top of the skirt. Be mindful of any seam allowances needed for reattaching the bodice and skirt.
Reattach the Bodice and Skirt:
After cutting the skirt to the desired length, it's time to reattach the bodice. Carefully align the skirt and bodice, ensuring that any seams match up perfectly. Sew or attach them securely, taking care not to damage any embellishments or decorations.
Final Fitting and Adjustments:
Once the dress has been reconstructed, have the bride try it on again to ensure a perfect fit. Check the length, waistline, and overall flow of the dress. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure the bride is comfortable and the dress flatters her figure.
Deconstructing a wedding dress at the waist is a delicate and intricate process. It is always recommended to seek the help of a professional seamstress or tailor, especially for dresses with intricate details, multiple layers, or delicate fabrics.
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Measuring the desired skirt length
Hemming a wedding dress is a complex process, and it is recommended that you seek a professional to do it. However, if you are confident in your abilities, here is some information on measuring the desired skirt length.
First, put on the shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day. Stand on a tall box, platform, or table. Look straight ahead and, going layer by layer, pin horizontally around the hem where the fabric touches the floor, or wherever you want the dress to sit. Double-check with a ruler or measuring tape to ensure the length is even.
If you are happy with the length, measure from the waistline down to the pinned hem. This will give you the desired skirt length. If the skirt is longer than desired, you will need to trim the excess fabric. However, it is important to keep in mind that you can always cut away more fabric, but you cannot add it back.
When measuring the skirt length, consider the type of skirt and any embellishments. If the skirt has a well-defined waistline and gathers, you can lift and resew the skirt at the new length. This is also a good option if there is lace or other decorations at the waist seam, as it will help camouflage the alteration.
If you are unsure about the desired length or are between lengths, it is generally better to err on the side of a longer skirt. You can always trim a little more fabric, but you cannot add it back if you cut too much.
Finally, consider the height of the wearer. For brides who are on the shorter side, the hem should be adjusted so that they do not trip on the extra fabric. On the other hand, taller brides might need to order extra length to ensure the dress is not too short.
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Pinning the hem
First, put on the shoes you plan to wear with the dress. This is important because the length of the dress will depend on the height of the shoes. Stand on a tall box, platform, or table, and look straight ahead.
Next, start pinning the hem. Work layer by layer, pinning horizontally around the hem where the fabric touches the floor, or to the desired length. Make sure to double-check with a ruler or measuring tape to ensure the hem is even. This process may be a bit tricky, especially if the dress has a train. It is important to pin up the hem all the way around to ensure the length and train aspect are as desired before cutting any fabric.
If the wedding gown has a well-defined waistline and the skirt has gathers, it is a good candidate for hemming by opening up the waist seam, lifting the skirt, and resewing it at the new length. This method is preferred because it allows the bride to try on the dress and get a feel for how the gown flows before cutting any fabric.
When pinning the hem from the waist, measure from the waistline down to the desired length. Remove the skirt from the bodice, keeping all the lining layers of the skirt together at the top. Measure up from the centre front skirt bottom to the desired length, pin, and then measure from the top of the skirt how much needs to be removed. Don't forget to add seam allowances that will be needed to reattach the bodice to the skirt. Measure and pin this all the way around the top of the skirt before carefully cutting off the excess fabric.
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Sewing techniques for different fabrics
Hemming a wedding dress is a delicate process that requires precision and attention to detail. It is important to consider the fabric of the dress when deciding on the best approach to hemming. Here are some sewing techniques for different fabrics:
Silk, Chiffon, or Lace
When dealing with delicate fabrics such as silk, chiffon, or lace, it is recommended to sew a rolled hem. These fabrics are lightweight and slippery, so using a rolled hem technique will provide a neat and secure finish. A walking foot or roller foot can be beneficial when working with these fabrics, as it helps to achieve smooth and even stitching and minimizes shifting.
Gathered Skirts
If the wedding dress has a well-defined waistline and the skirt has gathers, it is often preferable to hem it by opening the waist seam, lifting the skirt, and resewing it at the desired length. This approach allows for a more accurate assessment of the required length and ensures the original slope of the dress is maintained. It is also a good option when there are embellishments at the waist seam that can help camouflage the alteration.
Zippers and Chiffon
Working with zippers and chiffon can be challenging. It is important to practice this technique beforehand to achieve a smooth finish. When hemming a chiffon dress with a zipper, it is crucial to ensure that the zipper is properly secured and aligned before proceeding with the hemming process.
Heavy Fabrics
When sewing heavier fabrics, it is important to use a longer stitch length to reduce bulk and maintain tension. A roller foot can be particularly useful when working with heavier materials as it glides over the fabric, ensuring stitch consistency. Additionally, hand basting or fabric clips can be used to secure the layers and prevent shifting.
Combining Fabric Types
When combining slippery fabrics with sturdier ones, extra care is needed. Use a walking foot to prevent shifting and keep the slippery fabric on top for better control. Remove decorative elements from seam allowances to prevent bulk, and align the fabrics with their face sides together, securing them with perpendicular pins.
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Finding a professional
Hemming a wedding dress is a complex process that requires a professional seamstress or tailor. Wedding dresses are typically made with several layers of fabric, and the hemming process can vary depending on the style, fabric, and desired length of the dress.
When looking for a professional to hem your wedding dress, it is important to consider their experience and expertise in working with wedding gowns. A good option is to go back to the bridal shop where you purchased your dress, as they likely have experience with alterations. However, some shops may be more expensive, so it is worth getting quotes from multiple professionals and reading their reviews online before making a decision.
It is also essential to bring the shoes you plan to wear on your wedding day to your fitting appointments. This will ensure that your seamstress can hem your dress to the correct length, regardless of your height and shoe choice. If you haven't chosen your wedding shoes yet, bring a pair with a similar heel height to what you plan to wear.
During the fitting process, the seamstress will assess the dress and determine the best method for hemming. If your dress has a well-defined waistline and a skirt with gathers, they may open up the waist seam, lift the skirt, and resew it at the desired length. This method allows the bride to try on the dress and get a sense of how it flows before any fabric is cut.
The cost of hemming a wedding dress can vary depending on the complexity of the alterations and the professional's expertise. It is always a good idea to get multiple quotes to ensure you are getting a fair price. Remember, your wedding dress is a special garment, and you want to ensure it looks perfect on your big day.
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Frequently asked questions
Hemming a wedding dress from the waist is a good option if you want to preserve the design at the bottom of the dress. It is also a good option if the dress has a well-defined waistline and the skirt has gathers.
If your wedding dress has a lot of intricate details, lace, or embellishments at the bottom, you may want to consider hemming from the waist to preserve the design. However, this method is more complex and labour-intensive, so it may be more expensive.
Wedding dresses usually come in standard sizes and lengths, so most brides will need to have alterations done to ensure a perfect fit. Hemming is a common alteration, especially for brides who are shorter or average height, to prevent tripping on extra fabric.
The cost of hemming a wedding dress can vary depending on the complexity of the dress and the experience of the seamstress. On average, hemming a wedding dress costs between $25 and $100, but quotes can go up to $200 or more for intricate designs or multiple layers.
Hemming a wedding dress is a complex task, and a small mistake can be noticeable. It is recommended to hire a professional seamstress, especially if your dress has multiple layers, intricate details, or delicate fabrics like tulle.
