Rhiannon Hendricks
Wedding dress bustles are an important, yet often confusing aspect of wedding planning. The bustle allows brides to move around with ease, securing the train of the dress so it doesn't drag on the floor. One popular type of bustle is the French bustle, also known as an underbustle. This bustle style involves folding the train under itself, creating a subtle two-layer hem at the back. It can be achieved with ribbons, loops, or hooks, and is particularly suited to A-line dresses. Creating a French bustle can be a time-consuming task, requiring careful measurement and placement of pins and ribbons. While it may be possible to do it yourself, it is recommended to seek the help of an experienced seamstress to ensure the bustle is secure and does not break during the wedding.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure the train or any extra fabric of a wedding dress so that the bride can move around with ease |
| Types | French bustle, Ballroom bustle, American bustle |
| French Bustle Installation | Place the dress on a mannequin or a person; find the center seam of the train; sew ribbons in parallel pairs; tie the pairs together |
| French Bustle vs. American Bustle | French bustle is an American bustle from the inside out |
| French Bustle Cost | $75 to $250 on average |
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What You'll Learn
The difference between French and American bustles
A wedding dress bustle is an alteration that allows the bride to move around freely without tripping over the train of her dress. There are several types of bustles, including the French and American styles.
The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle or Victorian bustle, is achieved by folding the train under itself. This style is suitable for gowns with a more natural waistline and results in a two-layer hem that creates a design at the back. The hooks and ribbons used to secure the fabric can be hidden, resulting in a seamless look. This style is also suitable for gowns with asymmetrical details, as the bustle points can be placed in a unique pattern.
On the other hand, the American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, involves lifting the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. This style can have one or multiple pickup points, creating a cascading effect and adding drama to the back of the dress. The American bustle transforms the silhouette of the dress, making it a popular choice for brides who want to showcase the back of their gown.
Both styles have their advantages and can be customised to suit the bride's preferences and the style of the gown. The French bustle offers a more understated look, while the American bustle provides more dramatic flair.
Additionally, it is important to consider the weight and length of the train when choosing between a French and American bustle. The French bustle may not work well with a very long train, as it can create a bulky appearance, while the American bustle can accommodate a longer train with its over-the-waistline placement.
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How to prepare the dress
Preparing a wedding dress for a French bustle requires careful planning and execution. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to prepare the dress:
Choose the Right Dress
Not all wedding dresses are suitable for a French bustle. This style works best on satin A-line dresses with three seams at the back and a chapel train or longer. It is important to ensure that the dress has enough fabric to create the bustle effect without compromising the overall look of the gown.
Gather the Necessary Tools and Materials
Before starting, ensure you have all the required tools and materials, including the wedding dress, a dress form or mannequin (adjustable to match the bride's measurements), a measuring tape, and grosgrain ribbons. If the dress has intricate beadwork, a sheet to protect it during the process is also necessary.
Prepare the Work Area
Create a clean and spacious work area by spreading an old sheet or blanket on the floor. Place the dress form in the centre of the prepared area. If the dress has a crinoline or petticoat, fluff it in the dryer before putting it on the dress form. This step helps to ensure that the dress falls naturally and accurately during the bustling process.
Prepare the Dress
Place the dress inside out on the dress form over the crinoline or petticoat. If the dress has intricate beadwork or decorations, cover the dress form with a sheet first to protect these details. Adjust the dress form to match the bride's measurements, ensuring that it is slightly smaller (about 2 inches) to avoid stretching the fabric.
Identify the Bustle Points
Locate the centre seam of the train, which is usually the longest point. Flatten the train to determine the "floor length," or the desired length of the dress without the train. Decide on the number of bustle points needed, typically one to three points for a French bustle. Mark the bustle points with straight pins, ensuring they are evenly spaced and positioned correctly to achieve the desired "pouf" effect.
Sew the Ribbons
With the pins in place, sew pairs of ribbons at each bustle point. These ribbons will be used to tie the bustle in place. For a one-point French bustle, sew two ribbons parallel to each other and tie them together. For a three-point bustle, repeat this process on either side of the centre point. Using different coloured or patterned ribbons can make it easier for the person tying the bustle on the wedding day.
Preparing the dress for a French bustle involves careful measurements, marking of bustle points, and sewing ribbons in place. It is a time-consuming and detailed process, but it ensures the bride can move freely and gracefully on their special day.
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Sewing on ribbons
Sewing ribbons is an important step in creating a French bustle for a wedding dress. This bustle style is formed by sets of ties made of ribbon, with the train folded underneath itself and secured with ribbons tied in place. It is ideal for dresses with long trains or heavier fabrics, as it provides a secure way to lift the back of the dress off the ground, allowing the bride to move around with ease.
To begin sewing the ribbons for a French bustle, it is recommended to work in a large area and spread out an old sheet or blanket to protect the dress. Place the dress form in the middle, with the dress inside out on the form. If the dress has intricate details like beadwork, consider placing a sheet over the dress form first to avoid any damage.
The next step is to cut the ribbons and sew them onto the waistline of the dress. Cut enough ribbon to create loops, which will be sewn onto the underside of the dress's train. These loops will be attached to the ribbons at the waistline to secure the bustle. It is important to use strong stitches, such as lock stitches, to ensure the ribbons are securely attached.
When using multiple ribbons, it is helpful to use different colours or patterns to easily identify which ribbons go together. This makes the process of tying the bustle easier, especially when there are multiple ribbons involved. It is also recommended to add a small spot of colour to the end of each ribbon, using a coloured permanent fabric marker, to guide those who will be assisting with the bustling on the wedding day.
Finally, flip the dress inside out again and tie the ribbons together. Adjust the fabric to create a fuller bustle if desired. For dresses with long trains, consider adding additional points to distribute the weight evenly. Sew on another pair of ribbons at these points, sewing them parallel to the previous pair, and then tie the same colours or patterns together.
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Tying the ribbons
To begin tying the ribbons, you will need to have placed straight pins at the correct distance to create the desired "pouf." This is done by measuring from the floor to the end of the train and placing the pins at that distance from each other, usually about 7 to 8 inches apart. The pins should be placed on either side of the center seam, with the bottom of the pouf falling between them.
Next, sew on a pair of ribbons parallel to each other, just above the pins. These ribbons should be color-coded or patterned to make it easier for the person tying the bustle to identify the correct pairs to tie together.
Once the ribbons are sewn on, tie each pair together. For a one-point French bustle, simply tie the ribbons together. For a three-point French bustle, you will need to distribute the weight among three points. To do this, put a point on either side of the center point you just created, measuring about 7 to 8 inches to the side of the center seam. Sew on additional ribbons for these points and tie them together.
It is important to note that wedding dresses can be heavy, and the delicate bustle points can sometimes break during wear. As such, it is recommended to have safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line on hand to make any necessary repairs.
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Cost and challenges
French bustling a wedding dress is not a simple process, and it can be costly. The final price will depend on the number of bustle points and the type of bustle you need. On average, adding a bustle to a wedding dress ranges from $75 to $250. This cost can increase if you require a seamstress to make last-minute adjustments.
French bustling, also known as a Victorian or under-bustle, is the reverse of the American bustle. It involves hooks picking up the train of the gown and tucking it under the silhouette. Ribbons are often attached to connect and secure the fabric, with multiple pick-up points for added flair. This process can be challenging, especially for those who are not familiar with it. It is important to have someone help you with bustling your dress, as it is nearly impossible to do so while wearing it.
Additionally, there is always a possibility that the bustle can break during the reception. Wedding dresses are heavy, and the delicate bustle points may not hold, especially with vigorous dancing and mingling. It is a good idea to prepare an emergency kit with safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line to make any necessary repairs.
If you are concerned about the cost and challenges of French bustling, you may consider changing into a shorter dress for the reception. While this option incurs an additional cost, it eliminates the need for bustling altogether.
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Frequently asked questions
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a style of gown where the train folds under itself instead of over. The final look is an understated, two-layer hem that creates a design at the back.
A French bustle can help secure the fabric of your gown's train, giving you the freedom to move around with ease. It also adds a lovely new dimension to your wedding-day look.
To install a French bustle, you will need a wedding/formal dress, a dress form/mannequin, a measuring tape, and ribbons. Spread a blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place the dress form in the middle of the blanket and put the dress inside out on the form. Find the centre seam of the train and flatten it to see how long the train is. Sew on a pair of ribbons and tie them together.
The cost of adding a bustle to your wedding dress ranges between $75 to $250, depending on the number of bustle points and the type of bustle.
Give yourself 2-3 full afternoons to work on this project. Wash your hands every 20-30 minutes to ensure the fabric does not get soiled. Prepare for the worst-case scenario by having safety pins, a sewing needle, and a clear fishing line on hand in case the bustle breaks.
