Rhiannon Hendricks
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a style of wedding dress bustle that hides the train of the dress without changing its look. This bustle style is achieved by folding the train under itself instead of over, resulting in an understated two-layer hem that creates a design at the back. This guide will teach you how to achieve a French bustle on a wedding dress, a process that requires time, patience, and attention to detail.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of bustle | French (or underbustle) |
| When to use | When you want to completely hide the train without changing the look of the dress |
| How it looks | Two-layered hem that creates a design at the back |
| Materials needed | Wedding dress, measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon (preferably in 3 different designs or colors), sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, thin needle, white polyester thread |
| Preparation | Wash hands every 20-30 minutes, spread a sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress, place the dress form in the middle of the blanket |
| Steps | Find the center seam of the train, measure from the floor to the end of the train, sew on ribbons, tie the ribbons together, bring the two side seams together, tuck the center seam inside, smooth out the dress |
| Tips | This type of project is time-consuming and not for the easily-distracted, give yourself 2-3 full afternoons to work, anchor ribbons to keep them from ripping or coming loose |
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What You'll Learn
French bustle vs American bustle
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a style of wedding dress bustle that involves folding the train of the dress under itself, rather than over, to create a two-layer hem at the back. This style is achieved by adding colour-coordinated ribbons or loops underneath the gown, which can be tied together to secure the train. This option is ideal for brides who want to showcase the lines of their dress and flatter their figure. It is also a good option for those who want to keep their dress off the floor, as it creates a shorter hemline.
In contrast, the American bustle, or overbustle, involves lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. This style is achieved using hooks or loops along the waistline, creating the look of elegant pleats. The American bustle is simple for a seamstress to create and easy to attach on the wedding day. It adds drama to the back of the dress by creating a cascading effect as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
Both styles are popular choices for wedding dresses, with the French bustle offering a fun and flirty look, and the American bustle providing a more dramatic and elegant silhouette. The French bustle can be more intricate and therefore more expensive, while the American bustle may be better at hiding any wrinkles at the hip.
Ultimately, the choice between a French and American bustle depends on the bride's personal preference and the style of the dress. Some dresses may suit one style over the other, and it is important to consider the length of the train and the desired hemline. It is also worth noting that the bustle can be changed without harming the gown, so if a bride is unsure, she can try both styles before deciding.
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How to prepare the dress
Preparing a wedding dress for a French bustle can be a time-consuming and delicate process. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you get started:
Protect the Dress
First, lay out an old sheet or blanket on a flat surface to protect the dress from any potential stains or damage. Place a dress form or mannequin in the middle of the protected area. If using a mannequin, ensure it is adjusted to match the bride's measurements, including the height with heels. If the dress has intricate beadwork, cover the mannequin with a sheet to prevent any snagging.
Prepare the Dress
Place the wedding dress on the mannequin, inside out. If the dress has a crinoline or petticoat, fluff it up in the dryer before putting it on the mannequin underneath the dress. Find the center seam of the train, which is typically the longest point. Flatten the train to determine the "floor length," or the desired length of the dress without the train.
Measure and Mark
For a one-point French bustle, measure from the floor to the end of the train. Place straight pins at the desired distance to mark the location of the pouf. For a three-point bustle, distribute the weight by adding points on either side of the center. Measure off to the side of the center seam, about 7 to 8 inches, and mark with pins.
Sew the Ribbons
Sew pairs of ribbons at each marked point, parallel to each other. These ribbons will be tied together to create the bustle. Using different colors or patterns for each pair of ribbons will make it easier to tie them together on the wedding day.
Remember to take your time, work in a clean space, and ask for help if needed. With careful preparation, you can create a beautiful French bustle that complements the wedding dress.
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Sewing ribbons and loops
Preparing the Dress:
Before beginning to sew the ribbons, it is important to prepare the wedding dress. Place the dress inside out on a dress form or mannequin that is approximately the same size as the bride, including the height with heels. If the dress has intricate details like beadwork, consider placing a protective sheet over the dress form to avoid any damage. Adjust the length of the dress form to be about 2 inches smaller than the actual dress measurements to avoid stretching the fabric.
Identifying the Center Seam:
Locate the center seam of the train, which is typically the longest point. Flatten the train to find the "floor length," or the point where the hem of the dress would be if it were floor-length without a train. This will be your reference point for measurements and ribbon placement.
Measuring and Pinning:
Decide on the number of points for your French bustle, which can be one or three points depending on the length of the train and personal preference. Measure the desired distance from the floor to the end of the train for each point. Place straight pins at these measurements to mark the placement of the ribbons. Ensure that the pins are correctly spaced, typically around 7 to 8 inches apart.
Sewing the Ribbons:
Once you have determined the placement of the pins, it's time to sew on the ribbons. Sew a pair of ribbons at each pin location, keeping them parallel to each other. You can use grosgrain ribbon in different colours or designs to make it easier to identify the corresponding ribbons when tying the bustle. Secure the ribbons by sewing them onto the dress, ensuring they are firmly attached.
Tying the Ribbons:
After sewing all the ribbons, you can start tying them together. Tie the parallel ribbons at each point to create a loop. Then, tie the corresponding ribbons together (same colours or designs) to secure the bustle. This will create the French bustle effect, with the train neatly folded under itself.
Creating a French bustle requires careful measurement, precise sewing skills, and attention to detail. It is important to give yourself ample time and work in a clean environment to avoid soiling the fabric. Always refer to online tutorials or seek expert advice if you have any doubts during the process.
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Creating a one-point bustle
Creating a one-point French bustle is a great way to transform a wedding dress without altering its appearance. This bustle style, also known as an underbustle, is achieved by folding the train under itself, resulting in a subtle two-layer hem at the back of the dress.
To create a one-point French bustle, start by placing the dress on a dress form or mannequin that is approximately two inches smaller than the dress's measurements to avoid stretching the fabric. If the dress has intricate beadwork, cover the form with a sheet to protect it. Next, turn the dress inside out and locate the centre seam of the train, which should be at its longest point. Measure the length of the train from this point to determine the "floor length" of the dress without the train.
Now, mark the centre seam near the buttocks area with a straight pin. Measure downwards from this point to the desired length of the train. Place another pin at the bottom of this measurement, ensuring both pins are on the centre seam. The space between these pins will be where the centre pouf of the bustle sits, so adjust the pins up or down to achieve your desired look.
With the pins in place, sew a pair of ribbons parallel to each other, just above the bottom pin. Then, sew another pair of ribbons parallel to the first set, directly above the top pin. Finally, tie the two pairs of ribbons together, and your one-point French bustle is complete! This process can be time-consuming, so give yourself ample time and take breaks as needed.
The one-point French bustle is a simple yet effective way to transform a wedding dress, providing ease of movement and a subtle, elegant design at the back of the gown.
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Creating a three-point bustle
Prepare the Work Area and Materials:
Spread an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place the dress form in the middle, adjusting its measurements to be about 2 inches smaller than the dress to avoid stretching the fabric. If using a crinoline/petticoat, fluff it and put it on the dress form. Put the dress inside out on the form, and if the dress has beadwork, cover the form with a sheet first to protect it.
Measure and Mark the Train:
Find the center seam of the train, which is usually at the longest point. Flatten the train to determine the "floor length," or where the hem would be without the train. With the dress inside out, measure from the floor to the end of the train, keeping the first ribbons tied together. Measure 7-8 inches off to the side of the center seam. Place straight pins at the desired distance to mark the pouf location, ensuring the bottom will be between the pins.
Sew the Ribbons:
Sew pairs of ribbons parallel to each other on either side of the center seam. The ribbons can be colour-coordinated or patterned to make it easier to tie the bustle. Tie the pairs of ribbons together, and then tie the same colours or patterns together for the final bustle.
Complete the Three-Point Bustle:
Repeat the process by adding two more points to create a total of three points for the bustle. Measure from the floor to the end of the train, this time measuring off to the side of the previous point. Maintain a distance of about 7-8 inches and adjust as needed. Place the pins to mark the pouf location and sew on the additional ribbons. Finally, tie all the ribbons together, and your three-point French bustle is complete!
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Frequently asked questions
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a style of wedding dress bustle that has the train fold under itself instead of over. The end look is an understated, two-layer hem that creates a design at the back.
Spread an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place the dress form in the middle of the blanket. Adjust the measurement settings on the dress form to about 2 inches smaller than the measurements of the dress. Put the dress inside out on the dress form. Find the centre seam of the train and flatten it to see how long the train is.
You will need a wedding dress, a dress form or mannequin (or a friend the same size as the bride), a measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon (in 3 different colours or designs), 1 sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, a thin needle, and white polyester thread.
First, find your centre seam and the seams on each side of it. Bring the two side seams together, tucking the centre seam inside. Then, with the dress inside out, measure from the floor to the end of the train and place your straight pins at the correct distance. Sew on a pair of ribbons and sew the last pair of ribbons parallel to these ones. Then tie the pairs together.
Design the upper one first and then, with the remaining train, design the lower one. The second row of ties will be lower on the dress.
