Junior Rasmussen
A bustle is a clever way to lift the train of a wedding dress off the floor, allowing brides to move around freely and dance without the risk of tripping over their dress. There are several types of bustles, including the American, French, Ballroom, Royal, and Austrian. The type of bustle chosen depends on the silhouette and style of the dress, as well as personal preference. The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is a popular choice for those who want a more understated look, as it tucks the train neatly underneath the dress, creating a cascading, layered effect. This style is best installed by a skilled seamstress, who will add colour-coordinated ribbons or numbers underneath the gown to ensure the train tucks up and under seamlessly.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To prevent tripping hazards and to protect the fabric from damage during the reception |
| Types | American, French, Ballroom/Austrian, Royal/Victorian, Wrist |
| Installation | Seamstresses typically handle the initial bustle setup, but it can also be done by the bride or a bridesmaid |
| Timing | Between the ceremony and reception, or after the first dance |
| Tools | Buttons, hooks, loops, ties, ribbons, safety pins, needle, thread, fishing line |
| Layers | The top layer is the most important as it is visible to everyone. The under-layers are clipped and bustled first. |
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What You'll Learn
The benefits of bustling your wedding dress
Bustling your dress also helps to secure and protect your dress from damage and soiling. It lifts the back of the dress off the ground, keeping it from dragging and ensuring it stays clean. This is a practical solution, especially for gowns with long trains or multiple layers.
Additionally, bustling can enhance the look of your dress. Different types of bustles can add drama and flair to your silhouette. For example, the ballroom bustle, which is one of the most flattering types, completely hides the train, giving the illusion of a seamless, floor-length gown. The American bustle, also known as the over-bustle, creates an elegant drape, while the French bustle, or under-bustle, creates an understated, two-layer hem with a unique design at the back.
Lastly, bustling your wedding dress can be a fun and collaborative process. It often involves the help of your bridesmaids, mother, or other loved ones, who can learn how to do it during your dress fittings. This ensures that on your wedding day, your bridal party can confidently step in to help you bustle your dress beautifully and securely.
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How to attach an eye hook or button
Attaching an eye hook or button is a crucial step in bustling a wedding dress. A bustle is a technique used to secure the train of a wedding dress, or any extra fabric, off the ground and into the back of the dress. This allows the bride to walk and dance freely without the risk of tripping over her dress.
To attach an eye hook or button for an under-bustle, start by attaching a tie to the underside seam of the skirt. This tie should be hidden from view when the bustle is complete, with the skirt hem just off the floor. Next, sew an eye hook or attach a button to the very end of the train. You can use embroidery or beading to conceal the hook if desired.
Then, tuck the back of the skirt up and under the dress, and attach the eye hook to the tie on the underside. This will create a fuller skirt and a bubbled hem. Straighten out the dress, ensuring that the back lies smoothly. For a French bustle, the loop and button are both located under the skirt.
Depending on the style and fabric of the dress, you may need multiple points of attachment to create a natural-looking bustled hem. For a more dramatic effect, you can add multiple pickup points with hooks and eyelets down and across the back. It is recommended to seek the help of an experienced seamstress or a bridal party member to ensure a flawless bustle.
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How to attach the lower tie
Attaching the lower tie is an important step in creating an under-bustle on a wedding dress. This type of bustle, also known as a French bustle, tucks the train of the dress under itself, creating an understated, two-layer hem that adds design and detail to the back of the gown.
To attach the lower tie, first, attach an eye hook or button to the outside of the wedding dress, near the lower back. This should be hidden within the seams and decorated with embroidery or beading. Next, attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Ribbons are not commonly used for this type of bustle as they would be visible, so a hook and eye system is preferred.
Connect the hook and eye to lift the underside of the skirt off the floor. Adjust the train to ensure any decorative details are arranged as desired. You can add more sets of hooks and eyes if needed, especially if there are multiple layers to the dress. Each fold should be tucked in neatly so that the final tie results in a clean, layered look.
Practice is essential when creating an under-bustle, and it is recommended to have someone help you with this process, especially on the wedding day. It is also important to note that different types of hooks and loops may be used depending on the style and fabric of the dress.
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How to connect the hook and eye
To connect the hook and eye on an under-bustle wedding dress, follow these steps:
Firstly, decide on the placement of the hook and eye. For an under-bustle, also known as a French bustle, the train of the dress folds under itself, creating an understated two-layer hem at the back. The hook and eye should be placed high up on the train, near the lower back, and concealed within the seams of the dress.
Next, sew the eye hook to the end of the train, trying to conceal the hook with embroidery, beading, or other creative decoration. If you are using multiple hooks, consider colour-coding them or adding numbers to make it easier to match each hook with its pair.
Then, attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. For an under-bustle, ribbons are not usually used, as they would be visible from the outside. Instead, use a hook and eye system, attaching the corresponding hook or eye to the underside of the dress.
Finally, connect the hook and eye. The underside of the skirt should now be lifted off the floor. Straighten out the train, ensuring any details on the tail are arranged as desired. You may also add more sets of hooks and eyes if needed, depending on the number of layers in the skirt and the desired look. Tuck in each fold to create a neat, layered appearance.
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How to create a wrist bustle
A wrist bustle is a simple loop added to the end of the wedding dress train and worn around the bride's wrist. This bustle style is best suited for lightweight trains that won't be too heavy to carry or restrict your ability to walk and dance. It creates an asymmetrical look that pairs well with already-asymmetrical gowns.
To create a wrist bustle, you can use a nice 1/2" wide piece of double-sided satin ribbon that is long enough to slip onto your wrist easily. Sew this ribbon to the centre back seam on the underside of the train about 1/3 of the way from the hem to the waist. Then, make a small opening in the seam, through which the loop is slipped to the outer side of the train, allowing you to place it on your wrist. Typically, the wrist loop is worn on the right wrist for your first dance, and then switched to the left wrist to give your right wrist a break.
The wrist loop bustle is a great option if you don't want to fuss with having someone help you with your dress. It also gives you the option to let the train flow and move as you wish. However, keep in mind that the weight of the train on your arm can get heavy quite fast.
If you're working with a skilled seamstress or alterations expert, they can advise you on the best type of bustle for your dress and create it for you. They will be able to ensure that the bustle blends in with the dress flawlessly and lays beautifully.
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