Vintage wedding gowns are a unique way to showcase personal style on your big day. But how do you date a vintage wedding dress?
Dating a vintage wedding dress is both an art and a science. It can take years of experience to master the skill, but there are some key signs to get you started. From zippers to linings, seams to care tags, and labels to fabric, there are many clues to uncover when identifying the era of a vintage wedding gown.
For example, zippers were first used in women's clothing in the 1930s and placed at the side seam or centre back, usually concealed by a flap of fabric. Plastic zippers replaced metal ones after 1963. Lining can also be a tell-tale sign of a dress's age – dresses from the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s often had slips or half-slips underneath, while most skirts from the 1960s onwards came with a lining.
Additionally, seams can provide valuable information – French seams, pinked seams, and serged seams were commonly used in different decades. Care tags can also be helpful, as in 1971, the Federal Trade Commission mandated that manufacturers include at least one cleaning method on their garments. And finally, fabric can be a good indicator of a dress's age, as certain fabrics were more popular in specific decades.
So, there you have it! Dating a vintage wedding dress involves examining various aspects of the gown and piecing together the clues to determine its era. Happy hunting!
What You'll Learn
Identifying the era of a vintage wedding dress
Vintage wedding dresses are a unique and cost-effective way to stand out on your big day. But how do you know how old your dress really is? Here are some tips to help you identify the era of your vintage wedding dress.
Zippers
Zippers were first used in women's clothing in the 1930s and placed at the side seam or centre back of the dress, usually very short in length and concealed beneath a flap of fabric. In the 1940s, metal zippers were common in the side seams, sleeves, and back of dresses. The 1950s saw longer zippers at the centre back, still concealed. Plastic zippers replaced metal ones after 1963. However, do note that zippers may have been replaced over time, so this is not a definitive indicator of the dress's era.
Lining
In the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, women typically wore slips and half-slips under their dresses and skirts. Most skirts from the 1960s onwards came with a lining. If you find a skirt suit that resembles a 1940s style but has a fully lined skirt, it is likely from the 1970s or later.
Seams
Identifying the era of a dress by its seams can be challenging, especially if you're unfamiliar with sewing techniques. French seams, which enclose the raw edges of the fabric, were used from the 1900s to the 1940s. Pinked seams, cut with pinking shears, are often found on 1950s garments due to their zigzag teeth pattern. Serged seams, or overlock stitches, became common in the 1960s with the widespread availability of the Serger sewing machine.
Care Tags
The Federal Trade Commission mandated care labelling in 1971, requiring manufacturers to include at least one cleaning method on their apparel, such as "dry clean only" or "machine wash cold". While care instructions were not uncommon on clothing from the 1940s and 50s, the wording was typically "dry cleaning recommended" rather than "dry clean only".
RN Numbers
RN numbers, issued by the Federal Trade Commission, can also help determine the age of your vintage garment. These numbers were issued from 1952 to 1959, starting at 00101 and ending at 04086. If the RN number on your garment is higher than 04086, it is younger than 1959.
Union Tags
Union tags can provide valuable information about the age of your vintage garment. Here is a breakdown of the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU) tags by era:
- 1900-1936: ILGWU AFL
- 1933-1935: NRA with Blue Eagle
- 1936-1940: ILGWU CIO
- 1940-1955: ILGWU AFL
- 1955-1963: ILGWU AFL-CIO (no "R" symbol or "Union Made" inside the circle)
- 1963-1973: ILGWU AFL-CIO ("R" symbol and "Union Made" inside the circle)
- 1974-1992: ILGWU AFL-CIO (with added red colour)
- 1995-2004: UNITE!
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The pros of buying vintage
There are many advantages to buying a vintage wedding gown. Firstly, vintage is timeless and one-of-a-kind. Wearing a vintage wedding dress is a wonderful way to showcase your personal style and ensures that you will be wearing a wedding dress like no other bride. It is also a great way to incorporate the ultimate "something old" into your wedding day.
Vintage wedding dresses are also often more affordable than buying new. You can find a vintage wedding dress at a fraction of the price of a new wedding dress, and often, vintage pieces look higher-end than modern fashion, regardless of price.
Another benefit of buying vintage is the sustainability factor. The wedding industry can be very wasteful, and buying a pre-loved wedding dress is an environmentally-conscious choice. Vintage wedding dresses are also often made from exquisite, handmade fabrics, which would be very costly if you were to create a new dress from fabric of equivalent quality.
Vintage wedding dresses are also readily available, with many online and in-store boutiques specialising in vintage bridalwear.
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Tips for shopping for vintage bridalwear
Vintage bridalwear is having a moment, and it's easy to see why. Vintage wedding dresses are often one-of-a-kind, timeless, and more sustainable than buying new. Here are some tips to help you find your dream vintage wedding dress:
Start looking early
Begin your search as soon as you get engaged to ease the stress of finding your dress within a truncated timeline.
Have a clear idea of what you want
Take time to research different decades and create a mood board of the eras and looks that inspire you. Focus on popular silhouettes or accessories from a particular time rather than trying to replicate a specific look. You can also find a vintage style that is similar to modern-day fashions you love to make it more relevant and special.
Know your measurements
Knowing your exact measurements is crucial when shopping for any wedding dress, but especially for vintage gowns. Don't rely on the sizing tag; instead, familiarise yourself with your body type and measurements. This will help you make quick decisions and minimise alteration costs.
Check the condition of the dress
Inspect the dress for any marks, snags, or stains. Most stains or discolourations can be removed by a good dry cleaner. However, for older and more delicate pieces, look for a dress in pristine condition, especially if you plan on wearing it for an all-day affair.
Know where to shop
You can find vintage wedding dresses both online and in physical stores. Etsy is a great online source for vintage wedding dresses and accessories, offering a wide range of styles from different decades. You can also check out vintage bridal salons and shops, such as Happy Isles in Los Angeles, which carries pieces from the 1930s to the early 2000s, or Madly Vintage, which offers looks from the 1930s to the 1990s.
Be open to surprises
Sometimes, the best vintage finds are unexpected. Keep an open mind and explore different options. You might stumble upon a heart-stopping look that you wouldn't have considered otherwise.
Don't forget the accessories
Complete your vintage bridal look with carefully chosen accessories. If you're wearing a vintage wedding dress, modern accessories can freshen up the look. Alternatively, you can use vintage accessories to complement a contemporary wedding dress. Vintage purses, shoes, and jewellery are all great ways to add a special touch to your ensemble.
Happy hunting, and may you find the vintage wedding dress of your dreams!
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Where to shop for vintage bridalwear
There are many online and in-store shops that offer vintage bridalwear. Here is a list of some of the best places to shop:
Happy Isles
Happy Isles is an LA-based shop that features a vast collection of vintage designer gowns from the likes of Valentino and Oscar de la Renta. The picks date from the 1950s to the 1990s, and the store also carries wedding dresses from contemporary brands Lilly Ashwell and Magnetic Midnight.
Etsy
Etsy is an online craft haven and your one-stop shop for all things weddings, from invitations to cake toppers, and, of course, vintage wedding dresses. There is an entire section dedicated to vintage gowns for sale, from bohemian-infused '70s dresses to 1930s gowns reminiscent of the Art Deco era. You can find exactly what you're looking for at any price point.
Decades
Another LA-based gem, Decades was founded by style guru Cameron Silver in 1997 and sells a wide range of vintage white gowns for any bridal celebration. They also have a selection of colourful ensembles and vintage gowns for bridesmaids. Although prices are on the higher end, you can take your pick from distinct designers like Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior, and Alexander McQueen.
Preowned Wedding Dresses
Although this resell platform's vintage wedding dress page only has a few listings, it offers plenty of unique and antique pre-worn styles, sold by the brides themselves. Given that the site doesn't charge a commission, prices can vary from $100 to $2,000, depending on the seller.
Adored Vintage
Adored Vintage is a vintage shopping maven that doesn't specifically cater to brides but is still worth checking out, especially if you're leaning away from the traditional white dress. They offer colourful picks from 1910 to the '90s.
Shareen
With boutiques in NYC and LA, Shareen is a bucket-list destination for vintage enthusiasts. In addition to racks of retro treasures, the store carries a curated bridal collection featuring vintage-reworked and vintage-inspired gowns.
Unique Vintage
Located in Burbank, California, Unique Vintage is one of many vintage stores in the San Fernando Valley but also sells online. They carry a range of sizes and styles, as well as accessories, to suit various bridal needs.
1stDibs
This revered online marketplace sells everything from antique furniture to rare art and designer fashions, including wedding gowns. Find a range of pieces spanning everything from "no name" labels to vintage Yves Saint Laurent couture.
Vestiaire Collective
Vestiaire Collective is a global pre-loved designer clothing platform with new pieces landing daily and a wide selection of wedding dresses to choose from. It's worth familiarising yourself with the website's nuances so that you don't miss out on your perfect gown. Be sure to note any existing flaws before you buy.
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How to accessorise a vintage bridal look
When it comes to accessorising a vintage bridal look, there are many options to choose from. Here are some tips to help you create a stylish and cohesive ensemble:
- Stay true to your style: While you may want to experiment with different styles, it's important to choose accessories that reflect your personal taste and make you feel comfortable and confident.
- Mix vintage and modern pieces: Combining vintage and contemporary accessories can create a unique and modern vintage look. For example, pairing a vintage dress with modern shoes, jewellery, or a handbag can instantly update your outfit.
- Consider your dress: The style, colour, and neckline of your dress will play a significant role in choosing the right accessories. For example, a simple and elegant dress may call for understated jewellery, while an over-the-top ballgown can be paired with more statement pieces.
- Match your metals: Try to coordinate the metals in your accessories with those in your engagement and wedding rings. If you have gold rings, for instance, consider silver or gold jewellery, but avoid rose gold, which may clash.
- Add a cover-up: If you're getting married during colder months, a faux fur wrap or a chic shrug can add warmth and a stylish touch to your bridal look.
- Get creative with shoes: Your shoes are a great way to express your personality and have some fun with your bridal style. Consider choosing a colourful pair, opting for comfortable sneakers, or finding a pair of patterned booties.
- Enhance your hairstyle: Bridal vines, tiaras, and combs are just a few ways to accessorise your hair. Whether you plan to wear an updo or leave your hair down, there are numerous options to suit your taste.
- Keep your venue in mind: While your venue may not be the deciding factor, it can influence your accessory choices. For example, if you're having a vintage-themed wedding, you might want to choose accessories that complement the theme.
- Add a pop of colour: A colourful veil or bridal sash can be a fun way to add a splash of colour to your vintage bridal look.
- Incorporate vintage details: If you're wearing a vintage dress, consider adding some vintage accessories, such as a brooch, a pair of gloves, or a headpiece made from vintage jewellery.
- Focus on the neckline: The neckline of your dress will help determine the type of jewellery you should wear. For example, a strapless sweetheart neckline can be paired with a statement necklace, while a high neckline may call for a bold bracelet or drop earrings instead of a necklace.
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Frequently asked questions
Quite literally, vintage means “of age”, which leaves room for personal interpretation. One source considers a vintage item to be 20 years old or older, with an antique being at least 100 years old. Another source notes that vintage "is anything pre-loved that resonates with you or inspires from previous eras".
One clear advantage to vintage shopping is the ability to wear a one-of-a-kind bridal look. Choosing a vintage look is a great way to highlight your personal style and is typically more affordable than buying other items in the bridal market.
It is important to clearly define the type of look you want. Research different decades, then create a mood board of the eras or looks that inspire you. Additionally, try to focus on popular silhouettes or accessories of a particular time, rather than attempting to completely replicate a specific look. Knowing your exact measurements is also essential when it comes to shopping for any type of wedding dress, but especially vintage looks.
Etsy is a great place to start your search for a vintage wedding dress. You can also check out vintage bridal salons such as Happy Isles in Los Angeles, Aralda Vintage, and Madly Vintage.