Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress is one of the most important dresses a person will ever wear, so it's crucial that it fits perfectly. One way to ensure this is by sewing darts into the dress. Darts are triangles sewn into the fabric to take it in and provide shape, commonly used around the bust, waist, and hips. They can be straight, double-pointed, or diamond-shaped, and vary in depth and length depending on the desired fit and tightness of the garment. This guide will teach you how to dart a wedding dress to achieve a sleek and smooth look.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To make a wedding dress more flattering, better fitting, and add shaping |
| Dart Type | Straight, double-pointed, or diamond-shaped |
| Dart Location | Back, waist, bust, or hips |
| Fabric Type | Lightweight fabrics are best for sewing darts by hand |
| Marking Tools | Tailor's chalk, water-soluble pen, or dressmaker's carbon and a tracing wheel |
| Pinning | Pin darts in place, starting with the deepest part of each side and tapering to nothing at the top and bottom |
| Sewing | Sew from the center point and out towards the bottom point, then flip and sew from the center out towards the top point |
| Finishing | Press darts flat, using a tailor's ham or a rolled-up towel, and clip the seam allowance to relax the dart |
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What You'll Learn
Pinning darts
To begin, put on the dress inside out. This makes it easier to transfer markings to the inside of the fabric. Next, decide how tightly you want the finished product to fit. This will determine how much ease you will need.
Now, start pinning the darts. Begin with the deepest part of the dart on each side of the garment. Move up, making the dart narrower until it tapers out to nothing at the top. Then, do the same for the bottom of the dart. You can use a dress form to help with this process, or you can pin the darts on yourself with safety pins. Try to make the two darts symmetrical, but don't stress too much about perfection—you can always measure and adjust later.
Once you are happy with the placement of the darts, check that they are even. Place the two darts next to each other and ensure they are the same length, shape, and depth. Make any necessary adjustments by gently moving the fabric and pins. Then, mark the stitching line with tailor's chalk. You can also use a horizontal pin at the top and bottom of the dart to indicate the end of the stitching line.
Finally, sew along the line of pins with a straight stitch. If you are not satisfied with the placement of the darts, simply remove the pins and repeat the process until you get it right.
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Sewing darts
Preparation
Firstly, put the dress on a dress form or on yourself with safety pins. It is recommended to have the dress inside out during this process. Mark the dart position with tailor's chalk or a removable pen/marker. If using a pattern, transfer the dart markings onto the wrong side of the fabric. Mark the center of the dart and fold the fabric along this line, then pin it in place. You can also use a tracing wheel and dressmaker's carbon to mark the dart legs.
Pinning
Place pins at the deepest part of the dart on each side of the garment. The pins should taper out to nothing at the top and bottom of the dart. Adjust the fabric and pins so that both sides of the dart are symmetrical in length, shape, and depth. Mark the stitching line with tailor's chalk.
Stitching
Start stitching from the outside edge (widest part) of the fabric and sew inwards towards the point. Use a medium stitch length of 2.5, and change to a shorter length of 1.0-1.5 about 1 inch (2.5cm) from the end. Do not backstitch at the end, and leave a long tail of thread to knot each end.
Pressing
Press the darts flat to meld the stitches together. Use a tailor's ham if you have one, otherwise, a rolled-up towel can be used. Take care when pressing the end of the dart to avoid puckering. Finally, clip the seam allowance near the start of the stitching to allow the dart to relax, being careful not to cut too close to the seam.
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Pressing darts
Firstly, press the dart flat to meld the stitches together. This step is crucial in ensuring the dart remains flat and does not pucker. Use an iron and apply gentle pressure to the dart, being careful not to burn the fabric. If your fabric is delicate, consider using a pressing cloth between the iron and the dress to protect the fabric.
Next, place the dress over a tailor's ham, which is a useful tool for pressing darts. A tailor's ham is a specially shaped cushion that provides a curved surface for pressing curved seams and darts. If you don't have a tailor's ham, you can improvise by using a rolled-up towel. Place the iron over the dart and press it to the side, following the natural curve of the tailor's ham or rolled-up towel. Ensure you press the end of the dart well to avoid puckering.
After pressing, carefully clip the seam allowance near the beginning of the stitching. This will allow the dart to relax and lie smoothly. Be cautious not to cut too close to the seam, as this could weaken the structure of the dart.
If you notice any bulkiness or puffing in the dart after pressing, you can carefully trim or clip the centre of the dart. This will help to reduce the bulk and create a smoother appearance. However, always be mindful that clipping or trimming the fabric should be done sparingly and cautiously to avoid damaging the dress.
Finally, pressing darts should be done with consideration for the direction of the dart. For the most flattering look, press the darts towards the centre or middle of the dress. This will help to create a sleek and elegant appearance.
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Marking darts
Preparation
Before marking the darts, it is advisable to put on the wedding dress inside out. This way, you won't have to transfer markings to the inside of the fabric later. Pinch the fabric where you want the darts to be, starting at the deepest point, typically the smallest part of the waist.
Marking
Use fine wedding dress pins to pin the dart from 2mm outside the points, at right angles to the fold. Place a pin at the centre of the dart as well. If you are marking double-ended darts, which are common in dresses without a waist seam, you will need to use a tracing wheel and transfer paper to mark both back pieces of the dress simultaneously. Place the fabric wrong side up, then place the transfer paper over it, with the chalky side facing the fabric. Place the pattern on top and use the tracing wheel to draw the pattern onto the fabric.
Checking Placement
Once you have marked the darts, check that they are even. Place the two darts next to each other and adjust the fabric and pins slightly so that they are the same length, shape, and depth. Measure from the pin at the deepest point to the side seam, and then from the top of the dart to the shoulder seam.
Stitching
After marking, it is time to stitch the darts. Start sewing in the seam allowance of the deepest part of the dart, pivoting when you reach the stitching line of the dart and tapering to nothing at the top and bottom. For double-pointed darts, you will need to stitch in two parts, starting from the widest part and sewing to the point, and then repeating from the widest part to the other point.
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Types of darts
Darts are an essential part of wedding dress construction, allowing flat fabric to take on a shape that fits the body well. They are a folded wedge of fabric that is tapered and stitched down. Darts are often found in women's clothing and are used to fit the contours of the garment to the body in a flattering way.
There are several types of darts used in sewing:
Standard or Plain Darts
These are the most common type of dart and can be placed anywhere on a garment for a fitted look. They are usually found on the bust and waist. They are open at one end and often look like a triangle on the pattern piece. They can be manipulated to create different design elements and can be placed at other points of the body to provide more shape. For example, shoulder and neck darts help add a feminine shape to a garment that might otherwise look bulky.
Single-Pointed Darts
These darts are wide at one end and narrow at the other, forming a V shape when completed. They are the most common type of dart and are used on trousers, skirts, and blouses to create a fitted look.
Double-Pointed Darts
Also known as body darts, these darts are pointed and tapered at both ends. They shape the bodice, leading up towards the bust and tapering down towards the waist. They are found on fitted dresses, blazers, coats, and tunics.
French Darts
French darts are less commonly used and can only be located on the front of a garment. They extend diagonally from the seam to either the hip or bust and can be slightly curved or completely straight. They have a unique construction process as the excess fabric needs to be trimmed and sometimes clipped for tension release before stitching.
Fisheye Darts
Fisheye darts can be used at the back of a neckline to create a more fitted design. They are useful for taking up the slack from round shoulders.
Contour Darts
These darts are used to create fullness or shape on a skirt or pants pattern. They can be stitched in a concave or convex direction, depending on the pattern. A small dart sloping from the hem at the little finger edge of the sleeve and tapering towards the elbow helps to taper the sleeve.
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Frequently asked questions
Darts are triangles sewn into the fabric to take it in and provide shape. They are commonly used around the bust, waist, and hips to reduce the amount of fabric in one area. Without darts, clothing needs to be oversized, boxy, or have pleats or gathering to give shape.
Darts are typically placed through the waist at the front and back of the dress to give a nice shape. They are commonly used around the bust, waist, and hips.
Use tailor's chalk or a removable pen to mark the fabric on the wrong side, so the markings don't show in the final product. You can also use dressmaker's carbon and a tracing wheel to mark the fabric.
Pin the dart legs in place and start sewing from the center point of the dart outward toward the bottom point. Do not backstitch but leave a long thread tail. Flip the dart over and sew from the center point outward toward the top point. Repeat on the other side and tie the thread tails into square knots.
Press the darts flat to meld the stitches together. Place them over a tailor's ham (or a rolled-up towel) and press to the side. Clip the seam allowance near the starting point of the stitching to allow the dart to relax.
