Junior Rasmussen
A wedding dress bustle is a handy way to secure the train of a wedding gown to make it easier for the wearer to move around, especially during the reception. There are many types of bustles, and full-length gowns usually have hooks, ties, or buttons sewn into the train to create a uniform hemline. One popular bustle style is the American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, which involves lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline. Brides can add drama to the back of their gowns by creating a cascading effect with multiple pickup points. While some brides choose to bustle their gowns themselves, it is recommended to consult a skilled seamstress who can advise on the best type of bustle for the gown's silhouette and fabric.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a bustle style
The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, is one of the most popular styles. It consists of one or more bustle points scattered at the waist or hip line of the gown, meant to pull the train up and over the rest of the dress. This style can be created using buttons, hooks, or loops, and works well with many types of silhouettes, including A-line, ball gowns, and mermaids.
The French bustle, also known as the under bustle, is another common style. It is the reverse of the American bustle, with hooks picking up the train of the gown as it tucks under the silhouette. This style is well-suited for dresses with minimal trains and natural waistlines, especially those with embellishments near the waist.
The ballroom bustle is a more expensive option, as it requires multiple bustle points to be sewn around the bodice, allowing the fabric to fold delicately into itself. This style gives the illusion that the bride changed into a shorter dress, as it looks like a floor-length gown without a bustle.
Other options include the Austrian bustle, which creates a beautiful shape with ruching, and the royal bustle, which involves gathering the train and affixing it to the dress at several points, creating dramatic folds.
When choosing a bustle style, it is important to consult with your seamstress, as they will know which type of bustle will work best for your specific dress. It is also helpful to bring a bridesmaid or another member of the bridal party to your fittings so they can learn how to properly bustle the dress on your wedding day.
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Sewing hooks, ties, or buttons
Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, but a seamstress can sew hooks, ties, or buttons onto the back of your dress to help you achieve your desired bustle. Before your dress fitting, it's important to know that there are many types of bustles and the right one for you will depend on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear your dress. For example, the American bustle, also known as an over-bustle, is a simple option that adds drama to the back of the gown by creating a cascading feel as the fabric folds flow over the rest of the skirt.
During your wedding dress alteration appointment, your seamstress can help you determine which type of bustle will work best with your gown. Hooks, ties, or buttons can then be sewn into the wedding dress train to create a uniform hemline after the ceremony. If you're handy with a needle and thread, you can even sew one on yourself. To do this, place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the bride's train. This is where the loop will go. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Then, tie the end of the thread with a knot to secure it. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress and pull the thread all the way through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through the loop to create a knot.
Once the loops have been added to the dress, you can then fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them. Make sure to stitch securely, and if the buttons or hooks need additional reinforcement, attach a small piece of interfacing under each one. It's also important to make sure the hooks you use have locking ability to prevent the loop and hook from separating.
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Attaching the bustle to the dress
Attaching a bustle to a wedding dress is a complex process that requires skill and precision. It is highly recommended to consult a professional seamstress or alterations expert to ensure the bustle is correctly attached and does not damage the dress.
If you are confident in your sewing abilities, you can attempt to attach a bustle yourself or with the help of a friend. The first step is to decide on the type of bustle you want. The most common types are the American bustle, French bustle, Ballroom bustle, and Train-flip bustle. The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, involves attaching the midpoint of the train to a button or hook on the upper back of the skirt. This can be done with one point of connection or multiple points, depending on the weight of the fabric and length of the train.
To attach the bustle, you will need to sew loops, hooks, buttons, or ribbons onto the dress. For an American bustle, sew an eye hook or button onto the outside of the dress, near the lower back, concealing it within the seams or decorative elements. You can then attach the corresponding loops or hooks to the underside of the train, allowing it to be lifted and secured over the skirt.
For a French bustle, the train is tucked underneath the dress, creating a layered or ruffled look at the bottom. This style typically uses hooks or ribbons to lift the train and secure it under the skirt.
The Ballroom bustle is designed to completely hide the train, giving the illusion of an untouched, floor-length gown. Multiple attachment points are added under the dress for the train to be hooked or buttoned, resulting in a seamless look.
The Train-flip bustle is achieved by attaching hooks or ribbons inside the gown, allowing the train to flip underneath the dress, providing a dramatic reveal of the train when desired.
When attaching the bustle, it is important to consider the weight and length of the train, as well as the number of pickup points needed to achieve the desired look and support the weight of the fabric. It is also crucial to ensure that the attachments are secure and that the fabric is adjusted to create a neat and voluminous bustle.
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Adjusting the folds of fabric
Once you've chosen your bustle style and sewn on the hooks, buttons, ties, or ribbons, you can start adjusting the folds of fabric for your desired look. If you're going for a voluminous bustle, like the American bustle, you can create a cascading effect by playing with the folds of fabric. Decide if you want one statement pickup or multiple pickup points for added drama.
To adjust the folds, start by fastening the loops to the buttons, hooks, or ties. Then, play around with the fabric, creating folds and pleats until you achieve the desired look. If you're happy with the placement of the folds, carefully pin them in place to secure them. If you're using buttons or hooks, make sure they are securely stitched to the dress. You can also add a small piece of interfacing under each button or hook for extra reinforcement.
If you're concerned about the hooks and loops separating, you can use locking hooks, which have a small loop of wire inside that locks the loop in place. This will ensure that the bustle remains secure, especially when the bride sits down. Another option is to sew lace appliqués over the hooks or buttons to conceal them. This is a good option if you're worried about the appearance of exposed fasteners.
Remember, it's essential to plan and allow enough time between the ceremony and reception for bustling the dress. Practice beforehand so you know how to adjust the folds to create a beautiful and functional bustle.
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Concealing hooks or buttons with lace
Wedding dresses with intricate lace designs or unique silhouettes might need custom bustling techniques. If you're unhappy with the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can use lace to conceal them. Here is a step-by-step guide:
First, identify the loops, buttons, or hooks installed on your dress. These fastening points are typically sewn onto the back of your dress by a seamstress, who can recommend the best type of bustle for your gown. If you are sewing the hooks yourself, choose sturdy materials and ensure they are securely attached to bear the weight of your train.
Next, attach the loops to the buttons or hooks. Ensure each connection is tight and secure to prevent the bustle from coming undone. This step may require assistance from a bridesmaid or friend. After fastening the loops, adjust the train to ensure it feels comfortable and looks symmetrical. Double-check that the bustle does not restrict your movement.
If you would like to conceal hooks or buttons with lace, hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them. Choose lace that matches the colour and design of your dress for a seamless look. You can also ask your seamstress for advice on the best type of lace to use.
Finally, stock up on safety pins and keep them in an emergency kit, along with a thread and needle. These small but mighty tools can come to your aid if something comes loose during the day, allowing you to make last-minute repairs or reinforcements. Opt for thread that matches your dress colour to keep any fixes invisible.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a way to secure the train, or any extra fabric, of a wedding dress to keep it from dragging on the floor. It allows the wearer to move around with ease and adds a new dimension to the dress's look.
There are many types of bustles, including the popular American bustle (or over-bustle) and the French bustle. The American bustle is created by lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline, often with hooks, ties, or buttons.
Trust the expertise of your seamstress to recommend the best type of bustle for your gown's silhouette, the amount of fabric, and how you plan to wear it.
Yes, if you're handy with a needle and thread, you can sew a bustle onto your dress. You can use loops, hooks, buttons, or ribbons to lift and secure the train. However, it's recommended to consult a professional seamstress to ensure the best results.
Use strong thread to secure the hooks, buttons, or loops. You can also use locking hooks, which have a small loop of wire inside to prevent the loop from separating from the hook. Additionally, you can add reinforcement by attaching a small piece of interfacing under each hook or button.
