Franklin Dean
Boning is an essential component of a wedding dress, providing structure and support to the garment. It is especially important for strapless dresses, as it helps to prevent the dress from constantly slipping down. There are several types of boning to choose from, including steel, plastic, and rigilene boning, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. This article will explore the different types of boning available and provide a step-by-step guide on how to bone a wedding dress, covering everything from choosing the right type and amount of boning to addressing common issues that may arise during the process.
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What You'll Learn
How to choose the right boning for your wedding dress
Boning is an integral part of bridal construction, providing crucial support and structure to wedding gowns while enhancing their aesthetic appeal. It refers to thin, flexible strips made of plastic or steel that are typically sewn into the lining or inner layers of a wedding dress to provide structural support. These strips help the gown maintain its shape and three-dimensional appearance.
When choosing the right boning for your wedding dress, consider the following:
Fabric weight
The weight of the fabric used in your wedding dress will determine the type of boning required. For example, if you are using a heavy satin fabric, you will need a heavier boning to provide adequate support.
Bust size
If you have a larger bust size, you may need to add extra boning to your dress to provide additional support and prevent the need for constant adjustments.
Dress style
The style of your dress will also influence the choice of boning. For example, a strapless dress may require more boning than a dress with straps to prevent it from falling down. Additionally, consider whether you want the boning to extend up into the bust area or just the waist portion.
Personal preference
Some brides may prefer a dress without boning for comfort or personal style reasons. It is not a mandatory component of every wedding dress, and there are alternative methods to maintain the shape of a dress, such as built-in shapewear or a separate corset.
Fit and support
It is important to work with a skilled wedding dress seamstress to ensure your gown fits you perfectly and provides the necessary support. Boning can be added to any wedding dress to reinforce the structure, but it is crucial to consider the overall design and fabric of the dress when selecting the right boning.
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Sewing boning into a wedding dress
Choosing the Right Boning:
First, you need to choose the appropriate boning for your dress. Common types of boning include Rigilene, plastic, and steel boning. Rigilene boning is thin and flexible, making it a good choice for strapless dresses as it can be easily sewn directly onto the fabric. Plastic boning is lightweight but may not provide enough support for structured dresses. Steel boning, including spiral steel boning, offers the most support and is ideal for curved seams, but it needs to be finished properly to avoid sharp edges.
Preparing the Boning:
Before sewing, ensure that the boning is properly finished, especially if using steel or spiral boning. You can wrap the edges with satin ribbon and stitch across to hold it in place, preventing the boning from snagging the fabric. Flatten Rigilene boning with an iron before stitching to make it easier to work with.
Sewing the Boning:
There are a few methods for sewing boning into a dress. One method is to create channels or casings from the fabric and insert the boning. Another method, suitable for Rigilene boning, is to stitch it directly to a firm cotton underlining that is then sewn into the gown. If using a lightweight fabric, you can remove the boning from its casing, stitch the casing to the fabric, and then reinsert the boning.
Placement of Boning:
The placement of boning will depend on the style and fit of the dress. Boning can be placed along seams, especially princess seams, and in the waist portion of the dress to provide structure. Avoid placing boning directly over the bust; instead, stop at the underbust to maintain the shape of the bust. Consider adding a waist stay to transfer the weight of the gown to the waist area, reducing strain on the bust and neckline.
Additional Tips:
If you are unsure about the placement or type of boning to use, consider consulting online resources or seeking advice from experienced sewists. Always ensure that the boning is comfortable for the wearer and doesn't poke through the fabric. Test different types of boning and experiment with their placement to find the best solution for your wedding dress.
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Fixing boning issues in a wedding dress
If you are facing issues with the boning in your wedding dress, there are a few solutions you can try. Firstly, identify the problem. If the boning feels sharp on the top or bottom cut edge, you can trim the corners slightly to remove the sharp edge. You can also wrap a satin ribbon around the top edge of the boning and stitch it in place to prevent snagging.
If the boning is causing the dress to fit poorly, you may need to adjust the boning or add additional boning pieces. For example, if the dress is strapless and struggles to stay up, you can add vertical boning pieces in the centre of the bodice and along the side seams. Additionally, you can add a floating built-in undergarment, such as a steel-boned corset, to provide more structure and support.
If the boning is bent out of shape, you may need to replace it. This is especially true if the boning is made of plastic, as it may have melted due to heat. If the boning is well-sewn and you are unable to remove it, you can try using fashion tape to stick the dress against your body to improve the fit.
When choosing boning for your wedding dress, consider the weight of the fabric. If you are using a heavy fabric like satin, opt for heavier boning. Additionally, when working with a strapless dress, avoid placing boning directly over the princess bust seam. Instead, place a strip diagonally from the side waist up towards the top of the bust seam to provide support and comfort.
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Boning alternatives for wedding dresses
Boning is an integral component of bridal construction, providing crucial support and structure to wedding gowns while enhancing their aesthetic appeal. However, it is not mandatory for every wedding dress. Whether or not to include boning depends on individual preferences and the style of the dress. Some brides may opt for dresses without boning due to personal preference or considerations of comfort.
Simpler and lightweight dresses, for instance, may not need boning to maintain their structure and may rely on alternative methods to uphold their shape. One alternative method is to use a structured corset-type garment underneath the dress. This can be lightly attached at the top and waist and tacked down along the seams to hold the shape and create structure. Another alternative is to use eyelets and a criss-cross drawstring, which provides the benefit of adjustability.
Additionally, the type of boning used should be considered based on the weight of the fabric. For instance, if using a heavy satin fabric, a heavier boning would be required. On the other hand, featherweight boning may be more suitable for lighter fabrics.
In summary, while boning is a common feature in wedding dresses, it is not always necessary. There are alternative methods and considerations to ensure the dress maintains its structure and shape without the use of boning.
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Removing boning from a wedding dress
If you are considering removing the boning from your wedding dress, it is important to first try on the dress and assess whether the boning is truly the issue. In some cases, the issue may lie with the band in the middle of the dress, which can be adjusted with a sash. It is also worth noting that removing the boning may cause the dress to wrinkle or crease below the chest, and it could lose the smooth line on the ribcage.
If, after trying on the dress, you are certain that the boning needs to be removed, it is recommended to consult a professional seamstress or tailor. They will be able to assess the dress and determine the best course of action. In some cases, they may suggest alternative solutions, such as reshaping the boning or adding padded cups to fill the space.
It is important to keep in mind that removing the boning from a wedding dress is a significant alteration and may not be worth undertaking, especially if the dress was designed to be boned. Additionally, removing the boning may require re-beading the entire dress, which is a time-consuming and delicate process.
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Frequently asked questions
Rigilene boning is a popular choice as it can be stitched directly to the fabric without a casing. It is thin and flexible, making it suitable for strapless dresses. Other options include spiral steel boning, which offers a balance of strength and flexibility, and flat steel boning, which is rigid and provides good support.
One common method is to remove the boning from its casing, edgestitch the casing to the fabric layer underneath, and then reinsert the boning. Alternatively, you can create channels or casings from the fabric and insert the boning. When attaching boning, be sure to finish the tips properly, especially with spiral or steel boning, to prevent any sharp edges from poking through.
It is recommended to avoid placing boning directly over the bust. Stop at the underbust and bone up to the edge on the other seams. Consider adding a waist stay to distribute the weight of the skirt and prevent slipping. Additionally, avoid placing bones directly over "points"; keep them slightly to the side.
