Lyla Dejesus
Wedding dresses rarely come with a bustle, so brides often have to add one themselves or with the help of a seamstress. A bustle is a creative way to lift the back of the dress off the ground, preventing it from getting soiled and reducing the risk of tripping over a long train. There are several ways to attach a button and hook bustle, including sewing a loop and button to the back of the dress, or attaching an eye hook and tie to the underside of the skirt. The type of bustle chosen depends on the silhouette of the gown, the amount of fabric, and personal preference.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Required tools | Buttons, hooks, loops, needle, thread, lace appliqués, safety pins, embroidery or beading |
| Who can attach | Seamstress or alterations expert, or the wearer if they are handy with a needle and thread |
| When to attach | After the ceremony, before the reception |
| Types of bustles | Overbustle, French bustle, American bustle, Victorian bustle, Bow bustle, Wrist bustle |
| Number of attachment points | One for a simple look, multiple for a dramatic and voluminous effect |
| Weight of the train | Heavy trains may require multiple hooks or buttons to avoid breaking |
| Cost | $75 to $400, depending on the number and complexity of buttons, hooks, loops, and ribbons |
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What You'll Learn
Sewing loops and hooks
To sew a loop, place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the bride's train. This is where the loop will go. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Tie the end of the thread with a knot to secure it. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress, pull the thread all the way through, and make a small stitch. Pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through the loop to create a knot. Repeat this process until you have a loop big enough to fit your button.
To sew hooks, you can use fur hooks, but these are usually available only in black and brown. You can also paint a large silver hook with white nail polish and plan to use a thread loop to hook it on. Sew the hooks onto the dress with upholstery thread.
If you are creating an over-bustle, attach an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress, near your lower back, and attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Connect the hook and eye to draw the skirt off the floor.
If you are creating an under-bustle, or French bustle, the fabric is tied up underneath the skirt. The loop and button are both located under the skirt. When hooked at multiple points underneath the skirt, the under-bustle changes from French to Victorian.
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Hiding hooks with lace
Wedding dresses can be bustled in several ways, and one of the most common methods is using buttons and hooks. However, these buttons and hooks can sometimes be visible, which may not be aesthetically pleasing. If you want to hide the hooks of your wedding dress under lace, here are some tips to help you achieve that:
Firstly, it is essential to understand the different types of bustles. The traditional and American bustles are similar, with the fabric folding over instead of under, but they differ in pickup placements. The French bustle, on the other hand, is known for being more concealed, with everything completely hidden.
If you prefer the look of the traditional or American bustle, you can still conceal the hooks by using lace. One option is to hand-sew lace appliqués on top of the hooks to hide them. This method ensures that the hooks are not visible, especially if you have a lace dress where the hooks can be worked into the pattern.
Another option is to use a fur closure hook, which can be hidden under a lace motif. This method works well if there are no "extras" on the dress, such as pleats or additional lace motifs, to conceal the hook. You can also leave the lace motif unsewn at the spot where the hook is placed, providing a discreet way to access the hook when needed.
Additionally, consider using embroidery cotton in a pastel colour on the wrong side of the skirt to indicate where the hooks are located. This trick will help you or your designated "bustler" find the hooks easily without having to lift up the entire skirt.
Finally, if you are crafting the dress yourself, consider the placement of the hooks in relation to any lace motifs or patterns. By strategically placing the hooks in areas that will be covered by lace, you can naturally hide them without needing additional alterations.
Remember to plan ahead and allow enough time between the ceremony and reception to bustle your dress, as it may require some practice to perfect the look.
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Creating an over-bustle
To create an over-bustle, you will need to attach a tie to the underside seam of the skirt. This will ensure that the skirt hem is just off the floor when the bustle is complete. You can use a safety pin to mark where the loop will go. Then, sew an eye hook or button on the outside of the dress, near your lower back. Attach the lower tie about halfway down the back of the skirt. Connect the hook and eye to lift the skirt off the floor.
If you want to add a little extra flair, you can create a "'traditional" over-bustle' by fastening the train at multiple points over the skirt, creating a dramatic and voluminous effect.
If you are not confident in your sewing abilities, it is recommended to seek the help of a skilled seamstress or alterations expert. They will be able to create a custom bustle that fits your dress perfectly. Each individual button, hook, loop, and ribbon is sewn in by hand, so more complex layouts will be more expensive.
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Using a button and hook
Wedding dresses typically don't come with a bustle, so you may need to add one to your gown. A bustle is important as it pulls the back of the dress off the ground, preventing it from getting soiled and reducing the risk of tripping.
To attach a button and hook bustle, you will first need to decide on the placement of the button and loop. For an over-bustle, a button or hook is attached to the outside of the dress near the lower back, with the loop halfway down the back of the skirt. For an under-bustle, or French bustle, the loop and button are both located under the skirt.
To attach the loop, place a safety pin on the back of the dress to mark its position. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end to secure it. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress and pull the thread through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Repeat this process until you have a loop big enough to fit your button.
Once the loop is secure, sew the button in place. For an over-bustle, sew the button about one foot above the bride's knees. Stitch it several times and knot the thread to ensure it is secure. Now you can hook the loop over the button to lift the train off the floor.
If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them.
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Hiring a seamstress
Experience and Expertise:
Look for a seamstress who has experience with wedding dress alterations, specifically with adding bustles. They should be familiar with different types of bustles, such as the French bustle, American bustle, and royal bustle, and be able to recommend the best option for your dress. Check online reviews or ask for references to gauge their level of expertise and satisfaction of previous clients.
Consultation and Fitting:
Schedule a consultation with the seamstress to discuss your specific requirements. Bring your wedding dress to the fitting so they can assess the fabric, design, and train length. During the consultation, communicate your expectations clearly, including any concerns about exposed buttons or hooks. A skilled seamstress will provide guidance and tailor their recommendations to complement the style of your gown.
Pricing and Quotes:
Before finalising your decision, be sure to discuss pricing and obtain a detailed quote. The cost of adding a bustle can vary depending on the complexity of the dress and the chosen bustle style. Don't be afraid to shop around and compare prices, as rates may differ between seamstresses. It is also essential to clarify whether there are any additional charges or hidden costs to avoid unexpected expenses.
Timelines and Alterations:
Discuss timelines and deadlines with the seamstress to ensure that any alterations, including adding the bustle, can be completed on time. Ask about the expected turnaround time and confirm if there is any flexibility in case of last-minute adjustments. It is also a good idea to inquire about their policy on post-wedding alterations, as you may want to restore the gown to its original state after the big day.
Communication and Customer Service:
Choose a seamstress who demonstrates excellent communication skills and provides responsive customer service. They should be able to address your queries and concerns promptly and clearly. Additionally, consider their level of flexibility and willingness to accommodate any special requests or customisations. A seamstress who values customer satisfaction will ensure a more positive and stress-free experience.
By considering these factors when hiring a seamstress, you can ensure that your wedding dress button and hook bustles are attached securely and aesthetically, allowing you to move comfortably and confidently on your special day.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle pulls the back of the wedding dress off the ground so it doesn't get soiled, allowing the bride to move around with ease. It also alleviates the fear of tripping over a long train.
There are eight types of bustles with three overarching styles. The first is the over bustle, also called the American bustle, which fastens the fabric of the train over the skirt. The second is the underbustle, also called the French bustle, where the fabric is tied up underneath the skirt. The third is the traditional bustle, which is similar to the American bustle but with the fabric folding over instead of under.
To attach a button and hook bustle, you will need to sew loops onto the back of your dress. Place a safety pin halfway up the length of the train to mark where the loop will go. Thread your needle and insert it into the underside of the dress, pulling the thread through. Make a small stitch and pull the thread most of the way through to create a loop. Grab the loop and pull the remaining thread through to create a knot. Repeat this process until you have a loop big enough to fit your button. Once the loops have been added, fasten them to the buttons or hooks.
It is recommended to hire a skilled seamstress or alterations expert to attach a bustle to your wedding dress. They will be able to recommend the best type of bustle for the silhouette of the gown and the amount of fabric. If you plan to attach the bustle yourself, make sure to use a strong thread such as upholstery thread and sew the buttons and hooks securely. Practice bustling the dress beforehand and consider having a designated person to help you with this task on your wedding day.
A button and bustle hook is a useful tool to have in your wedding emergency kit. It can help with securing bustles, buttons, and tricky closures, saving time and easing hand strain. It also protects the delicate fabric of your wedding dress.
