Lyla Dejesus
Wedding dresses are often fitted with zippers, but sewing a zipper into a wedding dress can be a tricky process. It is a valuable skill to have, as it can help avoid minor wedding disasters. Sewing a zipper into a wedding dress requires a slightly different process than sewing a zipper into jeans or a handbag. This is especially true for invisible zippers, which require a different approach. In this text, we will explore the process of sewing zippers into wedding dresses, the common issues that can arise, and how to troubleshoot them.
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What You'll Learn
Sewing an invisible zipper
Prepare the Zipper and Fabric
First, finish or serge the joining seam edges where the zipper will be added. Place the joining seam edges side by side, with the right side up. Mark 3/4" from the top edges of both pieces to indicate the zipper placement and ensure the pieces align perfectly. Then, mark a 5/8" vertical seam allowance where the zipper will be placed. Next, open the zipper and gently press out the curled zipper teeth to flatten them slightly, being careful not to use too much heat as it can melt the teeth.
Pin the Zipper
Place the zipper coil right side down along one of the marked seam allowances and pin it in place. Ensure that the zipper pull is facing down. Pinning may be sufficient if the fabric is stable and will not shift.
Sew the Zipper
Attach the invisible zipper foot to your sewing machine, following the instructions in your machine's manual. Place the fabric under the presser foot and lower it onto the zipper, ensuring that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot. Start stitching the pinned zipper slowly, removing the pins before they reach the foot. Stop when you reach the end of the zipper or the marked end point on your garment. Backstitch about 1/2 inch to secure the zipper.
Repeat for the Other Side
On the opposite side, pin the zipper to the fabric, ensuring the right side of the fabric is facing up. Close and then reopen the zipper to ensure it has been pinned correctly, as this part can easily get twisted. Once confirmed, sew the zipper as you did the other side, but this time, ensure that the zipper coil is in the right-side groove of the foot.
Finish the Zipper
Pull the zipper closed and lightly press it. Sandwich the zipper in the seam allowance and pin carefully down the rest of the seam, ensuring the zipper tail is out of the way. Remove the invisible zipper foot and replace it with a standard zipper foot. Place the foot to the left of the zipper and slowly stitch about 1/4" above the end of the zipper, then do a small backstitch. Stitch slowly and as close to the zipper as possible, then sew down the remainder of the garment. Finally, press the zipper to finish.
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Choosing the right zipper length
Dress Design and Opening Length
Firstly, consider the design of the wedding dress and the length of the opening where the zipper will be placed. Use a tape measure to determine the desired length of the opening, from the top of the dress to the desired endpoint, typically just below the hips. This measurement will guide the selection of the zipper length.
Zipper Length Recommendation
It is generally recommended to select a zipper that is slightly longer than the opening. Opting for a zipper that is 2 to 4 inches (5.1 to 10.2 cm) longer can reduce stress on the fabric when putting on or taking off the dress, especially if the dress is form-fitting. This longer zipper can be seamlessly hidden within the dress, providing ease of movement without affecting the overall aesthetic.
Adjusting Zipper Length
If you have a zipper that is too long, you can adjust its length by sewing a zigzag stitch across the zipper teeth at the desired endpoint. Then, sew another zigzag stitch below this point for added security before carefully cutting off the excess zipper. This technique allows you to customise the zipper length to match the opening of the dress perfectly.
Zipper Type and Colour
Consider the type and colour of the zipper to ensure it blends seamlessly with the wedding dress. Dress zippers are often more delicate and come in a wider range of colours and lengths than those used for other garments. Select a zipper that matches the dress material and colour, creating a cohesive and elegant look for the special day.
In summary, choosing the right zipper length for a wedding dress involves considering the opening length, selecting a slightly longer zipper for ease of movement, adjusting zipper length if needed, and ensuring the zipper type and colour complement the dress design. By following these guidelines, the zipper will seamlessly blend into the wedding dress, providing both functionality and aesthetic appeal.
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Attaching the zipper to the dress opening
Attaching a zipper to a wedding dress requires a slightly different process than sewing a zipper into jeans or a handbag. It is recommended to purchase a zipper 2 inches (5.1 cm) longer than the opening, and to choose a zipper in the same colour as the dress.
Before attaching the zipper, it is important to measure the area where you want the opening on the dress to be. Consider how far down you want the opening to go. If the dress is form-fitting, a longer zipper is best as this will reduce stress on the fabric when putting on or taking off the dress.
When attaching the zipper, it is often easier to attach the lace and satin together on the zipper section and work with them as one piece of fabric. This is especially true if there are multiple layers to the dress, as machine sewing can be difficult with many layers. In this case, hand sewing is recommended for the best control.
If the dress has a waistband, it is a good idea to hand sew the portions at the waist seam join first to make sure that they line up, and then sew the rest of the zipper. If there is an overlay at the bottom of the zipper, this can be hand-sewn with a little play of unsewn seam, which will not be visible when worn.
After the zipper is attached, there may be some finishing touches left, such as hemming the top of the dress. Fold over the top edge of the dress so that the raw edges will be hidden on the inside of the dress. Insert pins through the fabric to secure it and then sew a straight stitch along the pinned edges to secure the hem. Remember to remove the pins as you sew and cut any excess threads when you are finished.
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Hemming the top of the dress
Hemming the top of a wedding dress is a straightforward process that can be done by hand or by machine. Here is a step-by-step guide:
Preparing the Dress:
Firstly, try on the dress with the shoes you plan to wear. This will help you determine the desired length of the skirt and the hem's placement. Mark the hemline with fabric chalk or pins. If using pins, place them vertically along the hemline, about 3-4" (8-10 cm) apart.
Folding and Securing the Fabric:
Turn the dress inside out and remove any pins temporarily. Fold the edge of the fabric by 2 inches (5.1 cm) and tuck the raw edge under, creating a neat finish. Then, fold the top 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) of the folded fabric under to hide the raw edge completely. You can use a ruler or measuring tape to ensure accuracy.
Sewing the Hem:
Secure the folded fabric with pins inserted horizontally through the layers of fabric. Sew a straight stitch along the pinned edge to secure the hem. Make sure to remove the pins as you sew. For a more durable finish, especially on thicker fabrics, consider using a twin needle to create a professional-looking double row of stitches.
Final Touches:
Once you've finished sewing, cut any excess threads and trim the hem if needed. Turn the dress right side out and check if any adjustments are required. Press the hem to ensure it lays flat and enjoy the finished look!
Remember, it's always a good idea to let the dress hang for a day before hemming, as this allows the fabric to settle, ensuring a more accurate hem.
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Troubleshooting common zipper issues
Zippers on wedding dresses can be a source of anxiety, but troubleshooting common zipper issues can ensure your special day goes smoothly. Here are some tips to address potential problems:
Zipper won't stay up
If your zipper is sneaking down, there are a few quick fixes you can try. One solution is to use a safety pin to secure the zipper in place. You can also add buttons or hook-and-eye closures at the top of the zipper to prevent it from sliding down. If the dress has fake buttons, ensure they are functional and can hold the zipper in place.
Zipper is stuck or difficult to move
A stuck zipper can be caused by fibres, small strings, or hair caught in the teeth. Use tweezers to carefully remove any obstructions. Lubricating the teeth with liquid soap or paraffin wax on a cotton swab can also help the zipper glide more smoothly.
Teeth aren't interlocking
If the zipper moves up and down, but the teeth aren't interlocking, you may need to adjust the slider. Use pliers to gently squeeze the top and bottom plates of the slider together, making it narrower until the teeth reconnect. Be patient and gentle, as too much pressure can break a fragile zipper.
Dress is too tight to zip
If the wedding dress feels too snug to zip up, there are a few strategies to try. First, ensure the dress is properly positioned at the waist, and adjust your bust to sit comfortably in the cups. You can also try wearing shapewear underneath to help the dress slide on more smoothly and consider removing padding from your bra to loosen the bust area. Taking a deep breath and exhaling while zipping up can also help. Additionally, enlisting the help of one or two additional people to hold the dress together and gently pull the sides closer can be beneficial.
Preventative measures
To avoid zipper issues, it's recommended to select a zipper that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) longer than the opening. Opt for a zipper that matches the dress colour and material as closely as possible. If you anticipate changes in your measurements, consider requesting a corset back or choosing a stretch fabric for your gown.
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Frequently asked questions
Sewing an invisible zipper in a wedding dress is easier if done before the seam below is sewn. First, attach the lace and satin together on the zipper section and work with that as one piece of fabric. Then, hand-tack the lining to the zipper. You can also machine sew an invisible zipper, but with many layers of fabric, hand sewing is recommended for better control.
Invisible zippers are a popular choice for wedding dresses, but they can pop if they are too lightweight for the fabric. A standard coil zipper is stronger than an invisible zipper. If you want to be able to remove the tail of the gown for the reception, you can use a long separating zipper.
Purchase a zipper that is 2 inches (5.1 cm) longer than the opening. Use a tape measure to measure the area where you want the opening on your dress to be. If the dress is form-fitting, a longer zipper is recommended. Opt for a zipper that will go from the top of the dress to just below the hips.
