Deborah Chan
Adding panels to a wedding dress is a great way to customise it according to your unique body measurements and style preferences. It can be done to make a dress that is too small fit perfectly, to increase the fullness of the skirt, or to add a pop of colour. The process involves placing the dress on a clean, flat work surface, planning the number of panels and their placement, removing seams if necessary, cutting and pinning the fabric panels, and finally, stitching the panels to the gown. The difficulty of adding panels depends on the type of gown, with A-line gowns being the easiest to alter. It is important to use matching or complementary fabric and thread to ensure a seamless and cohesive look.
Characteristics and Values Table for Adding Panels to a Wedding Dress
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Make a dress that is too small fit better, increase the fullness of the skirt, or add colour |
| Difficulty | Depends on the type of gown; A-line gowns are the easiest to alter |
| Fabric | Use the same fabric as the dress to disguise the alteration; otherwise, choose a coordinating fabric |
| Planning | Know the number of panels and their placement before removing any stitches; plan ahead to know how much fabric to purchase |
| Cutting | Cut fabric with a one-inch excess on each side for hems; cut in a triangle or square shape |
| Stitching | Begin at the bottom of the gown and finish one side before starting the other; stitch slowly and carefully |
| Trimming | Trim excess fabric so the skirt lies smooth; press seams with an iron to ensure the new panel flows with the skirt |
| Tools | Sharp scissors, seam ripper, measuring tape, pins, sewing machine or needle and thread, iron |
| Cost | Altering a dress at home saves money compared to hiring a professional |
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What You'll Learn
- Planning: Know the number of panels and their placement
- Preparation: Gather tools and materials, including matching fabric
- Cutting: Cut fabric panels to size, leaving excess for hems
- Stitching: Sew panels, one side at a time, then redo hems
- Finishing: Trim excess fabric, iron seams, and adjust as needed
Planning: Know the number of panels and their placement
Planning is crucial when adding panels to a wedding dress to ensure a professional finish. Before you begin, it is essential to know the number of panels you need and their desired placement. This planning stage involves several key considerations:
Firstly, identify the areas of the dress where you want to add panels. This could be the skirt, bodice, or sides of the dress. Knowing the specific areas will help you determine the number of panels required and their placement.
Next, consider the purpose of adding the panels. Are you aiming to adjust the size, enhance the fit, or add a stylistic element to your wedding dress? Understanding the purpose will guide your planning process and help you achieve the desired outcome.
Then, decide on the shape of the panels. Common shapes include square and triangle panels. The shape you choose will depend on the area of the dress you are working on and the effect you want to create. For example, square panels are often used to increase the dress size along the sides, providing extra room or a more comfortable fit.
Additionally, if you plan to add ruching to the panels for a more fitted or flared look, consider the placement and direction of the ruching lines. Mark the area on the panel where you want to add ruching with a fabric pen or chalk, and experiment with different placements to find your preferred look.
Finally, when planning the number and placement of panels, it is crucial to consider the fabric. Ensure you have matching or complementary fabric for the panels to seamlessly blend with the original dress. Take fabric samples with you when sourcing additional fabric to achieve the closest match. If you have made other alterations, consider using the same fabric for a perfect match.
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Preparation: Gather tools and materials, including matching fabric
Before you start adding panels to your wedding dress, it is important to gather all the necessary tools and materials, including matching fabric. This preparation will ensure that the process goes smoothly and efficiently.
First, you will need to choose the fabric for the panels. If you want the alterations to be discreet, select a fabric that matches the dress as closely as possible. If you have made other alterations to your dress, consider using the leftover fabric for the panels to ensure an exact match. Alternatively, take a fabric sample to your local fabric store and choose a fabric with a similar texture, colour, and pattern.
Next, assemble the tools you will need for cutting and sewing. A pair of sharp scissors will enable you to make straight and even cuts, creating a professional finish. A seam ripper will be useful for removing existing seams if necessary. For sewing the panels, you can use a sewing machine or a needle and thread. Choose a thread colour that blends with the fabric to make the seams less noticeable. Other useful tools include sewing pins, a measuring tape, and an iron for pressing seams.
Before you begin, prepare your workspace by clearing a clean, flat surface large enough for the dress. If the dress is new, consider washing and drying it first to soften the fabric and make it easier to work with. It is also recommended to practise your technique on an old dress or a mock-up before altering your wedding dress.
By gathering the necessary tools and materials, including matching fabric, you will be well-prepared to add panels to your wedding dress, ensuring a smooth and successful process.
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Cutting: Cut fabric panels to size, leaving excess for hems
Cutting fabric panels to size is a crucial step in adding panels to a wedding dress, ensuring a precise fit and a seamless finish. Here is a detailed guide:
Preparation:
Before cutting, it is essential to plan the number of panels needed and their placement on the dress. This forethought prevents accidental damage to the dress, such as stains or rips, and ensures a deliberate and efficient cutting process. It is also important to ensure that the fabric is neatly folded and laid flat on a cutting surface, allowing for accurate measurements and ease of handling.
Measuring and Cutting:
The next step is to measure and cut the fabric panels to the desired length and width, taking into account the excess fabric needed for hems. Typically, skirts require wider hems, ranging from 2 to 3 inches, compared to other garments. It is recommended to leave about one inch of excess fabric on each side of the panel for hemming, as this allows for a secure attachment to the dress and helps maintain its structure.
Precision Techniques:
To achieve precise cuts, especially when working with large fabric panels, consider using a folding-and-cutting technique. This involves folding the fabric in half widthwise, with the selvedges together, before measuring and cutting the desired length. For multiple panels, the fold can be sliced off first, and then subsequent cuts can be made from that reference point. This method improves accuracy and efficiency, similar to the concept of cutting paper snowflakes as a child.
Hemming:
After cutting the fabric panels, the focus shifts to creating neat and secure hems. One popular method involves using a zigzag stitch 1/4" in from the edge of the fabric, followed by backstitching to lock the stitches. The excess fabric is then trimmed away, being careful not to cut the stitches. The zigzagged edge is then pressed up onto itself, creating a consistent fold. Finally, the hem is pinned and sewn with a straight stitch just below the zigzag. This technique is suitable for heavy-duty fabrics that don't fray easily.
Additionally, it is essential to treat the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying or unraveling. One simple method involves pressing the edges over twice onto themselves, hiding the raw edge, and then stitching the folds down. Another technique uses pinking shears, which create a zigzag cut along the edge, making the fabric yarns less likely to fray.
In conclusion, cutting fabric panels to size for a wedding dress requires careful planning, precise measuring and cutting, and the application of appropriate hemming techniques. These steps ensure that the panels blend seamlessly into the dress, creating a comfortable and elegant fit for the wearer.
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Stitching: Sew panels, one side at a time, then redo hems
When sewing panels to a wedding dress, it is important to plan ahead of time and know the number of panels needed and where you want them placed. Place the dress on a clean, flat work surface with enough room to move the dress without knocking anything over.
Begin stitching at the bottom of the gown and sew the panel to your gown, focusing on one side at a time. Finish one side before moving on to the other side of the panel. Repeat this step if you are adding additional panels. Work slowly and carefully when making your stitches.
If your gown has already been hemmed, you should redo the hem so it is continuous across the new panel or panels. Trim any excess fabric so the skirt lies smooth. You can press the seams using an iron to ensure that the new panel flows with the rest of the skirt. Ask the fabric or dress store what temperature is recommended to use when ironing the dress to ensure you do not scorch the fabric.
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Finishing: Trim excess fabric, iron seams, and adjust as needed
Once you have stitched the panels onto your wedding dress, it is time to finish the seams. Finishing a seam means doing something to the raw edges of the fabric in the seam allowance to protect the fabric and make it look complete. Finishing a seam is essential when using any fabric that frays. If you do not finish the seams, the fabric will fray more and more as you wear and wash the dress, and eventually, the seams will come undone.
To finish the seams, trim any excess fabric so the skirt lies smooth. You can then press the seams using an iron to ensure that the new panel flows with the rest of the skirt. Ask the fabric or dress store what temperature is recommended to use when ironing the dress to ensure you do not scorch the fabric. Work slowly and carefully when making your stitches and hems.
There are several ways to finish a seam. One way is to use an overlocker or serger, which uses several threads to create a loopy chain around the raw edges of the fabric. If you are using woven fabric, you must sew your seam using a sewing machine first and then go over the seams again with your overlocker. If you are using knit fabric, you can use the overlocker directly on the fabric without sewing the seams first.
Another way to finish a seam is to use a zigzag stitch. You must sew your seams first, regardless of the type of fabric you are using. Then, go back over the raw edges and sew them together with a zigzag stitch. Most basic home sewing machines have an adjustable zigzag stitch. You can experiment with stitch length and width on a piece of scrap fabric to figure out the best combination for the weight of fabric you are using.
You can also finish a seam by creating a French seam. Take your two pieces of fabric and place them with the wrong sides facing. Sew using a small seam allowance, and trim away some of the seam allowance to keep your finished seam small and neat. Press the seam with the fabric right sides facing. Sew the seam again using a larger seam allowance. Your raw edges will now be hidden inside. French seams produce a beautiful, neat finish that fully encloses the raw edge of the seam. They are perfect for lightweight fabric, but avoid using them for heavier fabrics as the seams can get bulky.
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Frequently asked questions
Adding a panel to a wedding dress can make a dress that is too small fit perfectly, increase the fullness of the skirt, or add a pop of colour. Panels can also enhance the fit and comfort of a dress by providing extra room in specific areas such as the bust, waist, or hips.
You will need a clean, flat work surface, sharp scissors, a seam ripper, measuring tape, pins, a sewing machine or needle and thread, an iron, and the dress itself. It is also important to choose a thread colour that matches the fabric to ensure a cohesive look.
First, plan where you want to add the panel and remove any necessary seams. Then, cut the fabric to the appropriate length and width, leaving excess fabric for hems. Pin the fabric panel to the gown, and stitch the panel to the gown, starting from the bottom. Finish one side before moving on to the other. Finally, trim any excess fabric and iron the seams to ensure the new panel flows with the rest of the skirt.
