Junior Rasmussen
A French bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a type of wedding dress bustle that can add a unique design to the back of a gown. This bustle is created by folding the train underneath itself, resulting in a two-layered hem. The process of adding a French bustle can be time-consuming and challenging, but with the right tools and patience, it can be achieved. This involves measuring, pinning, and sewing ribbons to create a one-point or three-point bustle, depending on the length and style of the dress. It is important to consider the weight of the fabric and the number of points needed to support the train.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Type of bustle | French, also known as an underbustle or an American bustle from the inside out |
| Required items | Wedding dress, dressform/mannequin or a friend, measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon, sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, thin needle, white polyester thread |
| Time required | 2-3 full afternoons |
| Preparation | Wash hands every 20-30 minutes to ensure the fabric is not soiled |
| Process | Place the dress inside out on a dressform, find the center seam of the train, sew on ribbons, tie them together, measure from the floor to the end of the train, repeat for each point |
| Tips | Color-coordinate ribbons for ease on the wedding day, use pastel ribbons to avoid bleeding and fading when the dress is cleaned |
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What You'll Learn
Prepare your dress
Preparing your dress is the first step in adding a French bustle to your wedding dress. This process is time-consuming and requires a lot of patience, so make sure you give yourself two to three full afternoons to work on it.
Start by spreading an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place a dress form in the middle, adjusting its measurements to be about two inches smaller than the dress to avoid stretching the fabric. If you have a crinoline/petticoat, fluff it in the dryer and put it on the dress form. Next, put the dress inside out on the form, ensuring that the centre back seam of the dress is aligned with the centre back seam of the form. If your dress has intricate beadwork, place a sheet over the form to protect it.
Now, find the centre seam of the train, which should be the longest point. Flatten the train to see how long it puddles on the floor, and determine the "floor length" - the point at which the hem of the dress would be if it didn't have a train. This process will help you visualise the required length of the train and where to make adjustments.
For the next steps, you will need a measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon (preferably in three different colours or designs), a sharp needle, straight pins, and a thin needle. You may also want to wear gloves or wash your hands frequently to prevent soiling the fabric with the oils from your hands.
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Use grosgrain ribbon
To add a French bustle to a wedding dress using grosgrain ribbon, you will need a few essential tools and materials. These include a wedding dress, a dress form or mannequin, measuring tape, grosgrain ribbon (preferably in different colours or patterns), a sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, a thin needle, and thread. It is important to note that this project is time-consuming and requires patience and focus.
Begin by placing the dress form in a large working area, protecting the surrounding space with a sheet or blanket. Adjust the measurements of the dress form to be slightly smaller than the measurements of the dress to avoid stretching the fabric. If your dress has a crinoline or petticoat, fluff it in the dryer before placing it on the dress form. Next, place the dress inside out on the dress form over the crinoline. If your dress has intricate details like beadwork, cover the dress form with a sheet to protect these elements.
Now, you can start creating the bustle with the grosgrain ribbon. Cut a piece of ribbon that is approximately 15" long and 1/2" wide. Fold this ribbon in half and sew the raw ends securely to the dress, stitching back and forth for added strength. Cut the threads and flip the ribbon over, stitching across again for reinforcement. Repeat this process at each point where you want to create a bustle.
Once all the ribbons are securely attached, turn the dress right side out and smooth out any scrunching. You can then add a small spot of colour to the end of each ribbon using a permanent fabric marker. This helps identify the corresponding ribbons and loops, making it easier for the bridal party to bustle the gown quickly.
After the ceremony, simply lift the skirt, run each ribbon through its loop, and tie them together just like shoelaces. Drop the train, smooth it out, and admire your handiwork!
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Sew ribbons and loops
Sewing ribbons and loops is a crucial step in adding a French bustle to a wedding dress. This process involves creating a series of loops and ties that will be used to lift and secure the train of the dress, creating a elegant and understated look. Here is a detailed guide on how to sew the ribbons and loops for a French bustle:
Preparing the Dress
Before you begin sewing the ribbons and loops, it is important to prepare the wedding dress. Place the dress on a dress form, ensuring that it is inside out. If the dress has intricate details like beadwork, consider placing a protective sheet over the dress form to avoid any damage. Find the center seam of the train, which is usually the longest point, and flatten the train to determine the "floor length." This is the point where the hem of the dress would be if it were floor-length without the train.
Measuring and Pinning
To ensure consistent spacing, measure the desired distance between each ribbon loop. For most dresses, a distance of 7 to 8 inches between each ribbon is recommended. Use straight pins to mark the locations of the ribbon loops. Place the pins perpendicular to the seam, creating a clear guide for sewing. Remember that the bottom of the pouf will be right between the pins.
Sewing the Ribbons
Now it's time to sew the ribbons! Using a thin needle and strong thread, such as white polyester thread, sew a pair of ribbons at each pin location. The ribbons should be sewn parallel to each other, creating a loop. You can use grosgrain ribbon, which is known for its durability and ability to prevent splitting. If you're working with a heavy fabric, consider using multiple ribbons for added support.
Tying the Ribbons
Once all the ribbons are sewn on, it's time to tie them together. For a one-point French bustle, simply tie the ribbons together. For a three-point French bustle, tie the ribbons in pairs, creating three points of attachment. Using different coloured or patterned ribbons can make it easier to identify which ribbons to tie together. This will be helpful for the person tying the bustle on the wedding day.
Anchoring the Outer Layer
If the wedding dress has an outer layer of fabric, such as chiffon, it's important to anchor it before creating the bustle points. Lay the dress flat and line up all the seam lines of the layers. Pin the outer layer securely to prevent it from dripping or interfering with the bustle points. This step ensures that the outer layer doesn't rip or come loose during the bustling process.
By following these steps, you can expertly sew the ribbons and loops for a French bustle. Remember to take your time, work with patience, and ensure that the ribbons are securely sewn to support the weight of the fabric.
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Create a one-point bustle
Adding a French bustle to a wedding dress is a complicated process and is not recommended for those who are impatient or easily distracted. It is also time-consuming and can be scary for some. However, the finished product is worth the effort. Here is a step-by-step guide to creating a one-point French bustle:
Prepare the Dress
Place the dress on a dress form, inside out, over a crinoline or petticoat. If the dress has a lot of beadwork, cover the dress form with a sheet to protect it. Find the centre seam of the train, which should be the longest point. Flatten the train to see how long the train is and determine the "floor length".
Measure and Mark
Measure from the floor to the end of the train. Place pins to mark the desired location of the pouf, keeping the correct distance between them. For a one-point bustle, the pins should be placed in the centre, with the bottom of the pouf between them.
Sew the Ribbons
Sew a pair of ribbons parallel to each other just above the pins. These ribbons will be tied together to create the bustle. Using different coloured or patterned ribbons can be helpful for identifying which ribbons to tie together.
Tie the Ribbons
With the dress still inside out, tie the ribbons together. This will create the French bustle, which is essentially an American or overbustle from the inside out.
Final Adjustments
Straighten out the dress and ensure that the back is lying as it should. Adjust the pouf as needed to achieve the desired look.
It is important to note that while a one-point bustle is suitable for most dresses, longer trains may require a three-point bustle to distribute the weight more evenly. Additionally, it is recommended to seek the help of a skilled seamstress or alterations expert when adding a bustle to a wedding dress.
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Create a three-point bustle
Adding a French bustle to a wedding dress is a great way to make it easier to move around in your dress during the reception. It's also a stunning option that isn't overly complicated to execute. Here's a step-by-step guide to creating a three-point French bustle:
Prepare Your Work Area and Materials:
Spread an old sheet or blanket on the floor to protect the dress. Place a dress form in the middle, adjusting its measurements to be about 2 inches smaller than the dress to avoid stretching the fabric. If your dress has a lot of beadwork, consider covering the form with a sheet to protect the dress. Now, put the dress inside out on the form.
Find the Center Seam:
Locate the center seam of the train, which should be at the longest point. Flatten the train to see how long it puddles on the floor. Determine the "floor length" - the point at which the hem would be if the dress were floor-length without a train.
Measure and Mark the First Point:
With the dress inside out, measure from the floor to the end of the train. Keep the ribbons from the first point tied together. This measurement doesn't have to be on a seam. Place straight pins to mark the desired distance between them (around 7 to 8 inches). Ensure the pouf will be where you want it, with the bottom between the pins.
Sew on Ribbons:
Sew on a pair of ribbons parallel to each other. These ribbons will be tied together later. Using different colours or patterns for each set of ribbons will make it easier to tie the bustle on the wedding day.
Create the Side Points:
For a three-point bustle, you'll add points on either side of the first point. Measure off to the side of the center seam, about 7 to 8 inches, and repeat the process of pinning and sewing ribbons. You'll now have three sets of ribbons to tie together.
Finalize and Test:
With the dress right side out, you'll see the French bustle take shape. Practice bustling the dress before the wedding day, and consider designating a trusted bridesmaid or friend to help with bustling on the day. Always prepare an emergency kit with a sewing needle, clear fishing line, and large safety pins in case any repairs are needed during the event.
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Frequently asked questions
A French Bustle, also known as an underbustle, is a way to pick up the train of a wedding dress. It involves folding the train under itself instead of over, resulting in an understated two-layer hem design at the back.
A French Bustle is a stunning option that is not overly complicated to execute. It is a good option for brides who want to completely hide the train without changing the look of the dress. It also adds an interesting design element to the back of the dress.
You will need the wedding dress, a dress form or mannequin (or a friend the same size as the bride), a measuring tape, and grosgrain ribbon in three different colours or designs. You will also need a sheet of felt, sharp straight pins, a thin needle, and white polyester thread.
First, place the dress form in the middle of an old sheet or blanket to protect the dress. Put the dress inside out on the dress form. Find the centre seam of the train and flatten it to see how long the train is. Then, with the dress still inside out, measure from the floor to the end of the train and place pins to keep the correct distance between them. Sew on ribbons and tie them together.
This project is time-consuming and requires patience. It is important to give yourself enough time and take breaks. Wash your hands frequently to ensure the fabric is not soiled. The ribbons come in handy for tying the bustle, so it is helpful to use different colours or patterns that can be easily matched on the wedding day.
