Deborah Chan
Wedding dress trains can be bustled or pinned up to allow the wearer to move freely and prevent guests from stepping on the train. This can be done using a Trainloop, which involves pinning and hooking the train up, or by sewing buttons, hooks, loops or ribbon ties onto the dress. Alternatively, a bustle pin can be used, although this is not recommended for delicate fabrics such as chiffon.
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What You'll Learn
Using a Trainloop
A trainloop is a great way to pin up a wedding dress train, especially if you want to save money by doing it yourself. Trainloops can be made with buttons and loops, hooks and eyes, or ribbon ties. This method is also the easiest way to bustle a gown, as it only requires one button and loop.
To attach a trainloop, first put the wedding dress on the bride-to-be or a dress form that is the same height. Find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Sew a covered button where the pin is. Then, sew a loop of matching ribbon about one inch in length where you would like the straight pin to be on the train. Now, you can hook the loop over the button to lift the train off the floor.
If you would like to carry the loop on your wrist, you can sew a loop on the inside of the train and slip it through a small opening in the seam to the outer side of the train. This way, you can hold the train up throughout the reception. However, this method may cause the back of the skirt to ride up higher than with a longer train.
If the train is too long or heavy, you can redistribute the existing folds into two smaller folds and secure them with pins. Then, attach the trainloop by sewing a loop halfway up the length of the dress and sewing a button about one foot above the bride's knees. Make sure to stitch the button multiple times and knot it to ensure it is secure.
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Sewing a loop
First, put the wedding dress on the bride-to-be or a dress form of the same height. Find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Next, pinch a small spot of fabric about halfway down the train and lift it up to the straight pin. Adjust the train so that the hem falls as desired. This step may require several attempts to determine the exact spot on the train to create the desired drape and length. Once you find the perfect spot, mark it with another straight pin.
Now, it's time to sew the loop. Thread your needle with strong thread, doubling up the thread for added strength. Secure the thread with a knot at the end. Insert the needle into the underside of the dress at the marked spot. Pull the thread through and make a small stitch. Pull the thread most of the way through, leaving a loop. Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through, creating a secure knot. You can also use matching ribbon to sew the loop, attaching it to the spot where the straight pin is on the train.
After sewing the loop, grasp it and bring it up to attach it to the button or hook on the dress. Ensure the train falls as desired, and adjust the folds of fabric for a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués over them for a seamless finish.
Additionally, consider adding a wrist loop to your bustle. This involves sewing a loop of satin ribbon to the centre back seam on the underside of the train. The loop is then slipped through a small opening in the seam, allowing you to place it on your wrist during your first dance. This option provides an elegant solution to manage your train while freeing up your hands.
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Attaching buttons or hooks
Firstly, decide on the type of bustle you want. The two main types are the American bustle and the French bustle. With an American bustle, the train is simply lifted and hooked over the back of the dress, while a French bustle tucks the train underneath the dress. Another option is a wrist bustle, where a loop is added to the underside of the train, allowing the bride to carry it from her wrist.
Once you've decided on the type of bustle, it's time to attach the buttons or hooks. Put on the wedding dress or use a dress form that matches the bride's height. Find the middle back of the waist of the dress and mark the spot with a straight pin. Pinch a small portion of fabric halfway down the train and lift it up to the pin, adjusting the train so that the hem falls as desired. This is where you will attach the button or hook.
To attach a button, place a safety pin on the back of the dress, about a foot above the bride's knees. Thread your needle and knot the end, then thread it through the underside of the dress. Sew the button on securely, stitching it four times and making two knots to ensure it doesn't come loose. You can also sew the button at the waist of the dress and the loop onto the train if preferred.
If using hooks, sew them onto the dress at the marked spots along the waistline. Make sure to stitch securely and consider adding a small piece of interfacing under each hook for additional reinforcement.
Finally, create the button loops. Use strong thread and knot the ends together, then place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress's train where you made a pin marking. Sew the loop, and you're done! You can now hook the loop over the button or hook to lift the train off the floor.
Remember, bustling a wedding dress can be tricky, so it's a good idea to practice beforehand and have someone designated to help with the bustle on the wedding day.
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Using a wrist loop
A wrist loop is a romantic way to carry your wedding dress train, especially when you are walking down the aisle or posing for photographs. However, it can get heavy quickly, so many brides opt for a bustle instead.
To make a wrist loop, you will need a 1/2"-wide piece of double-sided satin ribbon that is long enough to slip easily onto your wrist. Sew the ribbon to the centre back seam on the underside of the train about 1/3 of the way up from the hem to the waist. Then, make a small opening in the seam and slip the loop through to the outer side of the train. This way, you can place your wrist through the loop and carry the train.
If your dress has a lace overlay, you can attach the wrist loop about an inch back, being careful not to pierce the top layer of fabric. Sew the wrist loop only to the underlay, and the lace will be picked up naturally when you lift the dress.
You can also use a piece of silk cord or a similar material and hand-sew it underneath the train. If your train is light and flowy, you can sew a wrist loop yourself underneath the tip of the train.
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Adding a bustle
One popular option is the American bustle, also known as an over-bustle. This style involves lifting the outside of the train and securing it over the back of the gown to the waistline. It creates a cascading effect with the fabric folds and can be customised with one or multiple pickup points for added flair.
Another option is the traditional bustle, similar to the American bustle but with different pickup placements. Loops or hooks are added along the waistline, and the train is fastened across multiple points to create elegant pleats.
For a more dramatic look, consider the royal or Victorian bustle. This style uses multiple pickup points to add dimension to the silhouette, and it pairs well with gowns that have a statement bow or sash in the back.
If you're looking for a seamless illusion, the ballroom bustle is a great choice. It completely hides the train without changing the look of the dress by attaching it to several points under the gown, resulting in an untouched, floor-length appearance.
The cost of adding a bustle can vary, with some people quoting prices ranging from USD 80 to USD 800 per bustle, depending on the complexity and number of layers involved. However, it is important to note that a bustle is not mandatory, and some brides choose to simply carry their train or change into a shorter dress for the reception. Ultimately, the decision to add a bustle depends on personal preference, the style of the dress, and the desired level of comfort and mobility.
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Frequently asked questions
There are a few ways to pin up a wedding dress train. One way is to use a Trainloop, which involves simply pinning the two pieces through your dress and then hooking them together when you want to lift up your train. Another way is to sew a loop by placing a safety pin on the back of the dress halfway up the length of the train and then sewing a loop around it. You can also use a wrist loop by sewing one under the tip of the train, although this may only work for lighter dresses.
A bustle is a common way to pin up a wedding dress train. Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, but you can add one yourself by sewing in buttons or hooks and loops. You can also use a product like a Trainloop, which does not require sewing.
If your wedding dress has a train, you may want to consider pinning it up so that it does not get in the way during greeting, dancing, or walking. Pinning up your train can also help to prevent guests from stepping on it.
