Franklin Dean
Creating a wedding dress with a flared skirt is a challenging but rewarding endeavour. It is important to understand the various techniques and tools required to achieve the desired look. Whether adding flare to an existing pattern or constructing a flared skirt from scratch, careful measurement, cutting, and sewing are essential. The process involves creating fullness or volume at the hemline while maintaining the waistline length, resulting in a beautiful and elegant silhouette.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Linen, jersey, chiffon |
| Tools | Measuring tape, scissors, sewing machine, hand machine, iron, hem tape, fabric glue, safety pins, marking chalk, ruler, needle and thread |
| Techniques | Cutting, sewing, pressing, pleating, gathering, tying straps, pinning, trimming, hand sewing, blind stitching |
| Flared areas | Skirt, sleeves, dress, collar, cuffs |
| Flared styles | One-sided fullness, equal or unequal fullness |
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What You'll Learn
Cut the skirt panels wider at the bottom than the top
To make a wedding dress flare out, you can cut the skirt panels wider at the bottom than at the top. This technique is called "One-Sided Fullness" and is used to increase the volume of flare at the hemline without changing the length of the waistline. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to do this:
First, determine the desired length of your skirt panels. Measure the circumference at your desired length, then measure 1-5 inches lower, as this circumference will be wider. This additional width will create the flare effect.
Next, cut your fabric panels. Each panel should be 1.5 times the width of your waist, plus the desired skirt length. To create the flare, cut the bottom edge of each panel 1-5 inches wider than the top edge. This will give your skirt more body and volume. Remember to add a seam allowance of approximately 0.5 inches to each measurement to ensure the panels can be sewn together easily.
When cutting the panels, consider the grain of the fabric. Most flared skirts are not cut on the straight of the grain. Keep in mind that the fabric may grow in length on certain sides depending on how it hangs. It is crucial to ensure that the panels are cut symmetrically, with the same amount of flare on each side, to maintain the balance of the dress.
After cutting the panels, you can assemble them by sewing the pieces together. Remember to add a hem allowance of approximately 1-2 inches at the bottom of the panels to account for hemming. This will ensure that the finished skirt maintains the desired length.
Finally, try on the dress to check the fit and flare. Minor alterations may be needed to perfect the look. Making a flared wedding dress can be a challenging task, so take your time and pay attention to the details to achieve the desired result.
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Sew darts into the bust of the dress
To make a wedding dress flare out, you can start by sewing darts into the bust of the dress. Darts are a great way to reduce the amount of fabric in one area, providing shape and definition. They are commonly used around the bust, waist, and hips to create a sleek and smooth look.
- Mark the Center of the Dart: Using tailor's chalk, a removable marker, or a tracing wheel and carbon paper, mark the center line of the dart on the wrong side of the fabric. This is the line along which you will fold the fabric.
- Fold the Fabric: Fold the fabric along the marked center line with the right sides of the fabric together. This will help you visualize the shape of the dart and ensure that the pleats and darts match up.
- Pin the Dart: Insert pins into key points of the dart to secure it in place. If you are an advanced sewer, you may be able to skip the marking and folding steps and proceed directly to pinning the dart.
- Stitch the Dart: Using a straight stitch, start sewing from the outside edge (widest part) of the dart and work your way towards the point. Remove the pins as you sew to avoid sewing over them.
- Press the Dart: Use a tailor's ham (a small stuffed cushion) to press the dart towards the center. This will help to create a nice shape at the point of the dart. For horizontal bust darts, press them downwards, while vertical darts should be pressed towards the center.
- Trim or Clip the Excess Fabric: If your dart is deep, you may need to trim or clip the excess fabric to reduce bulk. However, be aware that finishing the raw edges may result in bumps that show on the right side of the fabric.
By following these steps, you can effectively sew darts into the bust of your wedding dress, creating a flattering shape and providing the necessary structure. Darts are an essential technique in dressmaking, allowing you to transform two-dimensional fabric into a three-dimensional garment that beautifully fits the body.
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Add pockets
Pockets are a popular feature on wedding dresses, combining style with functionality. They can be seamlessly integrated into the gown's design, ensuring they don't disrupt the silhouette. If you want to add pockets to your wedding dress, here are some steps you can follow:
First, determine the placement of your pockets. Decide how far down you would like them to be, and mark the spot on your dress. Cut out four pocket patterns, trying to use fabric that matches your dress in case the pockets peek out. Fold the side seams towards the centre, matching the armhole, and run a thread tract at the top of where the pocket opening will be to ensure even placement on both sides. The pocket opening can be about 5 inches long, but you can adjust it to your preference, ensuring it's large enough to comfortably fit your hand.
Next, stitch the pocket edge to the seam allowance at a small width, approximately 1/4 inch. Sew the garment seam back up, starting about 1/2 inch below the pocket opening. Press the garment seam with the pocket towards the front of the garment. Pin the pocket pieces to the skirt panels and sew them in place.
Finally, try on your dress and ensure everything fits well and the pockets are comfortable and functional. You may need to make some minor alterations to the pocket placement or size. Adding pockets to your wedding dress gives you a sense of empowerment and ease, allowing you to discreetly carry your essentials on your special day.
Some considerations to keep in mind: ensure the pockets are strong enough to hold your items, and be mindful of the weight you put in them to avoid weighing down your skirt and affecting its hang. You may also want to avoid constantly putting your hands in your pockets during your wedding, as it may affect your photos and the visibility of your wedding ring.
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Use a serger to tighten the bottom of the hem
When making a wedding dress, or any dress, flared out, it is important to first try on the dress and decide how short you want it to be. This is because the flare of a skirt or dress can cause it to "grow" in length on two sides.
Once you have decided on the length, you can use a serger to tighten the bottom of the hem. A serger is a type of sewing machine that has a differential feed, which will tighten the bottom of the hem. This method is best used when the flare is not too wide.
To begin, measure the circumference of the skirt at your desired length. Then, measure 1-1.5 inches lower, as this circumference will be wider. You can then use the serger to tighten the bottom of the hem, easing in the difference in circumference.
It is important to note that you should not cut through more than one layer of fabric at a time when using a serger. You will also need to blind stitch the hem, as this is the most common way to finish a hem.
Finally, you will need to press the hem with lots of steam and very little pressure from the iron. A hardwood clapper can be used to hold in the heat. It is important to test the fabric's heat-bearing tolerance before applying steam, as not all fabrics will react the same way.
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Press the fabric with steam and a heavy hardwood clapper
Pressing fabric with steam and a heavy hardwood clapper is a technique used in sewing and quilting to create flat seams. A tailor's clapper is a wooden tool that, when placed on sewn seams, helps to keep them flat after pressing with an iron. The combination of heat and steam makes fabric fibres flexible, and when they dry and cool to room temperature, they retain their new shape.
To effectively use a tailor's clapper, it is important to first prepare the fabric with steam. This can be done by filling your iron with water or spraying water onto the fabric before pressing. Steam helps the fibres relax and adjust to the desired shape. Using steam is more effective than using heat alone, as it allows the fabric to fully benefit from the clapper's ability to trap heat and moisture.
The tailor's clapper should be made of hardwood, such as maple or tulipwood, to ensure it is heavy and close-grained. The weight of the clapper is important, as it needs to be heavy enough to hold the fabric flat. Additionally, a denser wood will hold the heat and steam in the fabric longer, allowing more time for the fibres to adjust to the desired shape. It is important to note that the terms "hardwood" and "softwood" refer to the type of tree rather than the actual hardness of the wood. Therefore, it is essential to select a dense wood rather than solely focusing on its classification as hardwood.
When using the clapper, there is no need to apply additional pressure beyond simply holding the fabric flat. The clapper's weight will do the work of keeping the fabric in place while it cools. The wood of the clapper absorbs the steam and traps the heat inside the fabric, preventing it from escaping into the air. This combination of hot to cool and steamy to dry is essential for creating perfectly flat seams.
By following these steps and using steam with a heavy hardwood clapper, you can effectively press fabric and create the desired flared shape for a wedding dress while achieving flat seams.
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Frequently asked questions
To make a wedding dress flare out, you will need to cut the skirt panels so that the bottom edge is wider than the top edge. This is called "One-Sided Fullness". You can also add more flare by pleating or gathering the top edge of the skirt panel, this is called "Equal or Unequal Fullness".
It is important to measure the circumference of the desired length of the skirt and then measure again 1-1.5 inches lower - as the circumference will be wider at this point. You can then cut the fabric, ensuring to leave 1-2 inches for hemming/folding allowance.
It is recommended to hand sew the hem of a flared wedding dress as it is easier to ease a softer fabric in small increments while hand-stitching. You can also use a serger with differential feed to 'tighten' the bottom of the hem.
