Lyla Dejesus
A wedding dress bustle is an important feature for any gown with a train, allowing the bride to move freely and preventing the train from getting damaged or dirty. Wedding dresses don't typically come with a pre-made bustle, so it's often custom-made to fit the bride and her dress perfectly. There are several types of bustles, including the American bustle, French bustle, ballroom bustle, and Austrian bustle, each with its own unique style and technique. Creating a bustle can be a complex process, but with the right tools and guidance, it's possible to do it yourself and save money. This paragraph introduces the topic of how to make a bustle on a wedding dress, highlighting its importance and providing an overview of the different types and processes involved.
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What You'll Learn
Why make a bustle?
A bustle is an important part of any wedding dress with a train. It is a custom-made alteration to the gown that allows the bride to move around freely and comfortably without worrying about guests stepping on the train. A bustle also prevents the dress from dragging on the floor, which can cause the bride to trip and also helps to avoid the dress getting dirty, stained, or snagged.
Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, so it is important to work with a skilled seamstress or alterations expert to create the right kind of bustle for the gown. There are many different types of bustles to choose from, including the American bustle, the French bustle, and the ballroom bustle. The American bustle, also known as the over bustle, fastens the fabric of the train over the skirt, creating a simple, symmetrical, and draped look. The French bustle, on the other hand, is an under bustle where the train folds under itself, resulting in an understated two-layer hem. The ballroom bustle is another type of under bustle that gives the illusion of no bustle at all, with the train tucked neatly underneath the skirt.
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress can be an additional cost, ranging from $75 to $250 on average. It is important to consider the weight of the dress when choosing a bustle, as some bustles may not be suitable for heavier dresses. Additionally, it is recommended to have safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line on hand in case any adjustments or repairs are needed to the bustle during the wedding.
Overall, a bustle is an essential part of a wedding dress with a train, as it allows the bride to move freely and comfortably while also protecting the dress from damage or stains.
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Choosing your bustle type
Choosing the right bustle type for your wedding dress is an important decision. Wedding dresses are often long and heavy, and a bustle will help you move around freely and comfortably. It will also ensure that your dress does not get damaged by dragging on the floor or being stepped on by guests.
There are several types of bustles to choose from, and the right one for you will depend on the style of your dress and your personal preference. Here are some of the most common types of bustles:
- American Bustle: Also known as an over bustle, this style is popular among brides. The train of the dress is fastened over the skirt, either with a single hook or button along the centre seam or with multiple hooks scattered along the waistline. This creates a simple, symmetrical, and draped look, or a more dramatic and voluminous effect. American bustles are not as strong as some other types and may break during the wedding.
- French Bustle: Also known as an under bustle, this style is the opposite of the American bustle as the train folds under itself instead of over. This creates an understated, two-layer hem that adds design to the back of the dress. Color-coordinated ribbons or numbers are added underneath the gown.
- Ballroom Bustle: This is another type of under bustle, where the train is picked up at multiple points to give the effect of no bustle at all. It works with a variety of dress silhouettes and is a good option if you want to completely hide your train.
- Train-flip Bustle: This style is most commonly used with ball gowns. The train is flipped and hooked at the waistline, completely hiding it underneath the gown and creating an even fuller skirt.
- Austrian Bustle: This style is created with a series of ribbons sewn on the inside of the dress that can be pulled tightly together to bustle the gown down the centre back. It is less popular than the French and American bustles but is gaining popularity.
When choosing a bustle type, it is important to consider the silhouette of your dress and how you want it to look. Some bustle types work better with certain dress styles, so it is helpful to consult with a seamstress or alterations expert to determine the best option for your gown. Additionally, keep in mind that bustles can be created using different fasteners such as buttons, hooks, loops, or ribbons, and the right choice will depend on the specific design of your dress.
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Sewing the bustle
Sewing a wedding dress bustle is a complex task that requires a lot of time and patience. It is not a project for the faint-hearted, but it can be done with the right tools and instructions. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew a wedding dress bustle:
Prepare the Dress
First, protect the dress by placing it on a dress form on top of an old sheet or blanket. If the dress has intricate beadwork, cover the form with a sheet before putting the dress on it. Ensure the dress is inside out. Find the centre seam of the train, which should be at the longest point, and flatten it to see how long the train is.
Measure and Mark
Determine the "floor length" of the dress, or where the hem would be without a train. Place straight pins to mark the desired length, keeping an even distance between them. For a French bustle, sew ribbons at these points, then sew another set of ribbons parallel to the first set and tie them together.
For an American or over-bustle, the train is fastened over the skirt. Attach a button or hook to the upper back of the skirt, and sew loops at the corresponding points on the underside of the train. Then, fasten the loops to the buttons or hooks. For a ballroom bustle, the train is hidden under the skirt, so sew the loops or ribbons underneath the gown.
Adjust and Secure
Adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle. If using buttons or hooks, stitch them securely to prevent the bustle from coming undone. You can also attach a small piece of interfacing under each button or hook for added reinforcement. If you don't like the look of exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them to conceal them.
Practice and Prepare
Before the wedding day, practice bustling and unbustling the dress to ensure it functions properly. Assign someone to help with the bustling on the day, such as the maid of honour or another member of the bridal party. They can attend the dress fittings to learn how to properly bustle the dress.
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Attaching the bustle
Prepare the Dress:
Place the dress on a dress form, ensuring it is inside out. If the dress has intricate beadwork, cover the form with a sheet to protect the embellishments. Adjust the form to be slightly smaller than the dress measurements to avoid stretching the fabric. If the dress has a crinoline or petticoat, fluff it before putting it on the form.
Measure and Mark:
Find the centre seam of the train, which is usually the longest point. Measure and mark the desired length of the bustle, typically 6 to 12 inches from the floor. Decide on the number of points you want to attach the bustle. For longer trains, three points are recommended to distribute the weight evenly.
Sew the Ribbons:
Following your marks, sew on ribbons securely. For a French bustle, sew on two ribbons parallel to each other and then tie them together. The ribbons can be colour-coded to make it easier for the person tying the bustle.
Attach Buttons or Hooks:
On the inside of the dress, attach buttons or hooks to the waistline or centre seam. These will correspond with the loops or ties on the outside of the dress. Ensure an odd number of fasteners, such as five or seven, for a secure hold.
Create the Loops:
Using strong thread, thread the needle and knot the ends. Place a small piece of interfacing on the top side of the dress's train where you want the loops. Insert the needle next to the seam line and pull it through the interfacing and train. Create a loop and secure it with a knot.
Fasten the Bustle:
Once all the fasteners and loops are in place, practice fastening the bustle. Attach the loops or ties to the buttons or hooks, adjusting the folds of fabric to create a voluminous and elegant bustle.
Remember, creating a bustle is a detailed process, and it is essential to give yourself ample time and patience to achieve the desired result.
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Hiding the bustle
A bustle is an important part of any wedding gown with a train. It is a custom-made alteration that lifts the train off the ground, allowing the bride to move around freely and preventing the dress from getting dirty.
There are several types of bustles, and the right one for you will depend on the style of your dress. If you don't like the look of a traditional bustle, you may prefer a ballroom bustle, which completely hides the train to give the illusion that the gown was always floor-length. This bustle works on a variety of silhouettes and is particularly suited to ball gowns. It is created by flipping the fabric of the train under the gown and attaching it at multiple points underneath.
Another bustle that hides the train is the French bustle, also known as the under-bustle. This is the opposite of the American-style bustle as the train is folded under itself instead of over. The end result is an understated two-layer hem that creates a design at the back. This bustle can be created with ribbons at each bustle point to hide the attachment and make it appear seamless.
If you would prefer to hide the buttons or hooks of an American-style bustle, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of them.
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Frequently asked questions
A bustle is a feature of a wedding dress that allows the wearer to move around freely without the train of the dress trailing on the floor. It also prevents guests from stepping on the dress. A bustle can be hooked, tied, or buttoned and there are several types of bustles, including the ballroom bustle, the French bustle, and the American bustle.
If you are handy with a needle and thread, you can sew a loop onto the back of the dress by placing a safety pin halfway up the length of the train. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread, inserting it into the underside of the dress, and pulling it through. Make a stitch and pull the thread to create a loop, then pull the remaining thread through the loop to create a knot. You can also attach a tie to the underside of the skirt and sew an eye hook to the end of the train. Pull the tie through the eye hook to create a bustle.
Making a bustle can be time-consuming and challenging, so it is recommended to have a skilled seamstress or alterations expert create the bustle for you. If you choose to make the bustle yourself, make sure to wash your hands frequently while working to avoid soiling the fabric. It is also helpful to have someone assist you with bustling your dress on your wedding day, usually the maid of honor or another member of the bridal party.
