Planning A Fall Wedding? Try Calla Lilies

Calla lilies are a popular choice for weddings, with their elegant, trumpet-shaped blooms and long, graceful stems. These flowers are toxic to humans and pets, but they are a perfect fit for a fall wedding, with their shades of ivory, pink, purple, or orange. If you're looking to grow your own calla lilies for a fall wedding, you'll need to start in the spring, as they are summer-blooming flowers. They grow best in full sun or partial shade and require moist, well-drained soil. With the right care, your calla lilies will be ready to take centre stage at your fall wedding!

Calla Lily Varieties

Calla lilies are not true lilies; they are part of the Arum family and the genus Zantedeschia. They are native to South Africa and are known for their elegant, trumpet-like flowers. While the white calla lily is one of the most well-known varieties, there are many other colourful options. Here are some of the most popular calla lily varieties:

Acapulco Gold

The sunniest of the yellow calla lilies, Acapulco Gold produces large, bright yellow blooms.

Night Life and Night Cap

For a rich, deep purple shade, try either Night Life or Night Cap. Night Life produces a larger, darker, and bluer flower, while Night Cap is a smaller flower in a redder shade of purple.

California Ice Dancer

This variety produces large, creamy white flowers on 18-inch-tall stalks. The leaves are a darker shade of green than most varieties, offsetting the white blooms beautifully.

California Red

A gorgeous, deep reddish-pink shade, neither too bright nor too dark.

Pink Melody

This variety produces triple-toned flowers that go from green to white to pink. It is a tall calla lily, growing up to 2 feet in height.

Crystal Blush

Similar to Pink Melody, this variety is whiter with just a hint of pink on the edges of the petals.

Fire Dancer

One of the showiest varieties, Fire Dancer is large and deep gold with red edging.

Allure

Allure features gorgeous funnel-shaped flowers in glossy wine red. They grow to a height of 16 to 20 inches and are a great choice for cutting gardens or mixing with other warm tones.

Apricot Lady

Apricot Lady offers tall, narrow spathes in bi-tonal colours of apricot edged in raspberry. The glowing flowers are beautifully offset by the semi-shiny, arrowhead foliage.

Black Magic

Black Magic has glowing, trumpet-shaped flowers of bright yellow with a distinctive black throat. The long-lasting flowers look terrific when mixed with other warm colours or with contrasting mauves and purples.

Black Star

A standout for its unique coloration, Black Star features tall, glossy spathes of dark maroon to black. The freckled leaves are a luminous tropical green, edged in the same colour as the spathes.

Crowborough

A large, clump-forming deciduous to semi-evergreen perennial, Crowborough bears large, cup-like flowers of pure white. The creamy-to-yellow spadix forms an attractive cluster of chartreuse seed pods if allowed to mature.

Flame

Bold and fiery, Flame has incredibly vibrant flowers that start as golden yellow with maroon edging and mature to a rich, pyro orange with flame-red mottling.

Garnet Glow

Garnet Glow delivers an abundance of pretty, tall, and narrow pink spathes that emerge from the erect, strappy foliage. It is a delightful standalone specimen and can also be mixed with complementary colours like blue, red, and purple.

Green Goddess

Green Goddess features bi-tonal, trumpet-like spathes of creamy white with generous, chartreuse-to-spinach green edging. When fully open, the flowers have a pronounced, beaked tip.

Helen O'Connor

A pretty and distinctive black-throated variety, Helen O'Connor has unique spathes that start as pale yellow and morph into mottled shades of apricot or pink as they age. The flowers have a deep maroon-to-black throat and are beautifully framed by heart-shaped, speckled jade green leaves.

Indian Summer

A reliable performer in the late garden, Indian Summer boasts an abundance of trumpet-like spathes, beige-ecru when closed, and opening to a rich wine red. The flowers are attractively framed by the heart-shaped and speckled glaucous green foliage.

Intimate Ivory

A free-flowering hybrid, Intimate Ivory produces a seemingly endless display of tall, chalice-like spathes in ivory white, with a pale chartreuse outer base. It is ideal for cutting gardens and beds, foundations, or patio pots.

Lavender Sensation

Tall and elegant, Lavender Sensation has narrow, chalice-like spathes in a dreamy pinkish lavender with a magenta throat. This hybrid variety is stunning when massed with purple and white flowers.

Majestic Red

The chic, chalice-like spathes of Majestic Red are deep burgundy with a rolled edge, giving them a lovely, velvety softness. This hybrid variety is perfectly complemented by jade green foliage.

Millennium Gold

Millennium Gold sports sparkling, cup-shaped spathes of buttercup yellow that rise atop jade green foliage. An excellent choice to brighten up beds, borders, planters, or patio pots, Millennium Gold also makes an attractive and long-lasting cut flower.

Morning Sun

Morning Sun gives glorious, radiant colours from the multitude of fluted, yellow-to-peach spathes set in freckled foliage. A vibrant choice to warm up beds, containers, and islands, this hybrid also adds charm to bouquets and vases.

Odessa

The glossy, fluted spathes of Odessa are a deep purply black, rising resplendent from the sword-like, speckled foliage. The showy flowers make a beautiful standalone specimen in beds, foundations, and patio pots.

Picasso

Picasso features lovely bi-tonal spathes, starting as creamy white with a few purple streaks and opening to reveal a stunning deep purple throat. The broad arrowhead foliage is glossy dark green with white spotting.

Purple Sensation

Tall, narrow, and funnel-shaped, Purple Sensation spathes are a deep royal purple, darker in the throat with light russet mottling around the base. This rich shade of purple pairs beautifully in mixed beds with complementary colours like reds and blues.

Red Alert

Red Alert features gorgeous, trumpet-like spathes of fire engine red with flame orange mottling. Fantastic when mass planted, Red Alert adds a blaze of colour to beds, borders,

Planting Calla Lilies

Calla lilies are a beautiful addition to any garden or bouquet. They are native to South Africa and are considered tender perennials, as they don't tolerate freezing weather. Here is a detailed guide on how to plant and grow calla lilies:

Where to Plant

Calla lilies require full sun or partial shade. In warm climates, they grow well in full sun, while in cooler areas, they thrive in full sun to partial shade. They are best suited for beds, borders, cutting gardens, pots, planters, and containers. Calla lilies can also be grown indoors and make excellent houseplants, requiring a location near a sunny window.

Soil Requirements

Calla lilies perform best in organically rich, moist, well-drained soils. Consistent moisture is crucial, but overwatering should be avoided to prevent rot. Their ideal garden soil should be neutral or slightly acidic with a pH of 5.6 to 6.5. Before planting, it is recommended to dig in well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost.

When to Plant

The best time to plant calla lilies is in the spring, after the danger of frost has passed, or when the soil has warmed up to at least 65°F (18°C). For earlier blooms, you can start the rhizomes indoors about a month before the average last frost date.

How to Plant

When planting calla lilies, follow these steps:

• Dig a hole 3 to 4 inches deep.
• Set the rhizome into the hole with the growing tips facing up.
• Space the rhizomes about 4 inches apart when planting in the ground and 4 inches on center when planting in containers.
• Cover the rhizome with soil and water lightly at first. Increase watering once the plants have a few leaves.
• Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture.
• After planting, it may take up to two weeks for the first shoots to appear, and then the plants will grow quickly.

Care Tips

• Calla lilies require consistent moisture throughout the season, as well as adequate humidity.
• Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks while they are blooming.
• Remove faded flowers to keep the plant tidy and encourage reblooming.
• Deadhead each stem to prevent seed production and encourage blooming.
• Divide established calla lilies every 3-5 years in the fall while the plant is dormant to promote flowering.
• In cold climates, dig up the rhizomes in the fall and store them indoors for replanting the next spring.

Caring for Calla Lilies

Calla lilies are graceful and elegant flowers that can be grown outdoors or indoors. Here are some tips on how to care for your calla lilies:

Light and Temperature

Calla lilies thrive in full or partial sun. They need ample light to produce flowers, but in very warm regions, they may benefit from being planted in partial shade to protect them from intense sunlight. Calla lilies grow best in warm conditions, with temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C) during the day. They can tolerate high temperatures as long as the humidity is adequate. Extreme heat, especially in dry or arid regions, can be detrimental to the plant.

Soil and Watering

Calla lilies prefer well-amended beds with good drainage. They are adaptable and can grow in a range of soil conditions, including sand or clay. Their ideal soil is neutral or slightly acidic with a pH of 5.6 to 6.5. When planting, choose a sunny to partially shaded site with well-drained soil. Bury the rhizomes about 3-4 inches deep.

In terms of watering, calla lilies appreciate consistent moisture throughout the season. However, it is important not to overwater, as this can lead to root rot. Water when the soil is slightly dry, and do not let the plant sit in water.

Fertilizer and Pruning

Calla lilies require annual feeding to keep them healthy. Well-balanced fertilizers can be used before the plants start to flower. Avoid using fertilizer after the plant has finished blooming. Spent blooms and damaged or discoloured leaves should be removed to encourage new growth and maintain the plant's appearance.

Pests and Diseases

While calla lilies are relatively low-maintenance, they can be susceptible to certain pests and diseases. Common issues include rot, powdery mildew, and various types of wilt, often caused by excess moisture. Pests that may target calla lilies include slugs, Japanese beetles, aphids, spider mites, and thrips.

Indoor Care

If you are growing calla lilies indoors, keep the soil moist but not soggy, and provide bright, indirect light. Apply liquid fertilizer monthly while the plant is in flower. Reduce watering when the plant enters dormancy, usually in November. Allow calla lilies to rest in a cool, dark area during this time.

Propagating Calla Lilies

Calla lilies are beautiful flowers that can be propagated in two ways: by dividing the rhizomes or by growing from seeds.

Calla lilies can be propagated by dividing the rhizomes in spring or fall. In spring, after the danger of frost has passed, you can carefully lift the rhizomes from the soil and divide them with a spade, ensuring that each section has at least one eye. Replant the divided rhizomes immediately and add soil around them, firming it with your hands.

For fall division, wait until the foliage turns brown and pulls away from the roots easily. Then, lift the clump of rhizomes with a shovel and remove any remaining foliage. Cut or break apart the rhizome into sections, each with at least one eye. Allow the cut sections to dry for a day before replanting. If you live in a cooler area, you may need to store the rhizomes over the winter and replant them in the spring.

Calla lilies can also be grown from seeds, although this method requires more time and patience. You can purchase seeds from catalogs or garden centers, or collect them from mature seedpods on your existing plants. Wait until the seedpods are completely dry before removing them from the parent plant.

To propagate calla lilies from seeds, spread them out on a damp paper towel and place it in a cool location. After a few days, check for growth and discard any seeds that have not sprouted. Fill a well-draining pot with a high-quality soilless medium and plant the seeds that have started to grow, placing two seeds per pot under the soil. Keep the soil moist and check for growth after a week, removing any seeds that have not grown. Continue to monitor the seedlings and remove the weaker sprout from each pot to give energy to the stronger one. Once the calla lily has grown sufficiently, it can be transplanted into a larger pot or outdoors.

Storing Calla Lilies for Winter

Calla lilies are not cold-hardy plants and will not survive freezing temperatures. If you live in a cold climate, you will need to dig up the rhizomes and store them over the winter. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to store calla lilies for the winter:

• Wait until just after the first frost. Cut the withered foliage back to 2-3 inches above ground level.
• Dig up the rhizomes carefully with a spade, ensuring you do not damage the bulbs.
• Remove the soil from the bulbs by gently dislodging it with your hands. Rinse the bulbs under cool running water to remove any remaining soil.
• Check the rhizomes for any signs of rot or disease. Discard any diseased or damaged rhizomes.
• Allow the healthy rhizomes to dry for a few days in a cool, dark place. Ensure the temperature is between 60-70°F (15-21°C) to prevent mould from forming.
• After drying, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper or place them in paper bags with a small amount of dry peat moss or vermiculite. This will help to keep them dry and prevent the spread of mould.
• Store the wrapped rhizomes in a dark, dry place with a temperature of around 50°F (10°C). Check on them occasionally to ensure they are not too dry or too moist.
• In the spring, once the threat of frost has passed, you can replant the rhizomes outdoors. Plant them with the growing tips facing up, about 1 foot apart, and water them well.

If you live in a mild climate (USDA zones 8-10), your calla lilies may be able to survive the winter outdoors without digging them up. However, it is essential to provide some protection by mulching the area and ensuring the temperature does not drop below 25°F (-3.9°C).

Frequently asked questions