Wedding Band Turning Yellow: Why?

If your wedding band is turning yellow, it's likely that it's made of white gold. White gold is an alloy made by combining pure gold with other metals such as nickel, zinc, silver, or palladium. To give it its distinctive white colour, it's plated with rhodium, a metal in the platinum group. Over time, the rhodium plating can wear off, revealing the yellowish tint of the gold alloy underneath. This can be due to several factors, including individual body chemistry, exposure to harsh chemicals, and excessive abrasion. To prevent your wedding band from turning yellow, it's recommended to avoid abrasive cleaning products and chemicals, and to remove the ring before activities that involve water or chemicals, such as showering or swimming. If your ring has already turned yellow, you can take it to a jeweller to have the rhodium plating reapplied, restoring its original colour.

White gold composition

White gold is an alloy composed of pure yellow gold and other metals that give it a white/grey colour. The most common white metals that form the white gold alloy are nickel, palladium, platinum, and manganese. Sometimes copper, zinc or silver are also added. However, copper and silver form undesirable coloured oxides in the air or on the skin, so other metals are preferable.

The purity of white gold is expressed in karats, the same as with yellow gold. The gold content is typically stamped into the metal (e.g. 9K, 10K, 14K, 18K, or 24K in the case of pure gold jewellery). A common white gold formulation consists of 90% gold and 10% nickel by weight. Copper can be added to increase malleability.

The white gold alloys used in the jewellery industry are gold-palladium-silver and gold-nickel-copper-zinc. Palladium and nickel act as primary bleaching agents for gold, and zinc acts as a secondary bleaching agent to attenuate the colour of copper. As a result, white gold alloys can be used for many different purposes. Nickel alloys are hard and strong and, therefore, good for rings and pins. Gold-palladium alloys are soft, pliable, and good for white-gold gemstone settings. The strength of gold-nickel-copper alloys is caused by the formation of two phases: a gold-rich Au-Cu and a nickel-rich Ni-Cu, and the resulting hardening of the material.

The white gold composition varies depending on the number of karats. Here are some examples of known white gold alloys:

20-karat white gold (833/1000): 83.3% fine gold + 16.7% palladium

18-karat white gold (750/1000): 75% fine gold + 18.5% silver + 1% copper + 5.5% zinc

14-karat white gold (583/1000): 58.3% fine gold + 17% silver + 17% copper + 7.7% zinc

9-karat white gold (375/1000): 37.5% fine gold + 62.5% silver

White gold is rarely, if ever, pure white. Without the rhodium coating, white gold might be grey, dull brown, or even pale pink. The rhodium plating gives white gold its signature tint and chromatic appearance. It also makes the alloy stronger and helps protect it from damage due to the elements and everyday wear.

Rhodium plating

Rhodium is a precious metal in the platinum group, making it ideal for jewellery. It is highly reflective, giving jewellery a brilliant, white look. It is also non-reactive, so it won't cause allergic reactions.

White gold is an alloy made by combining pure gold with other metals such as nickel, zinc, or silver. It usually comes in a ratio of 75% gold to 25% other metals. The resulting mix makes the gold stronger than in its pure form, as gold is a soft metal. However, the gold alloy still has a yellowish tint. To give white gold its signature chromatic appearance, it is covered with a plating made from rhodium. This also makes the alloy stronger and helps protect it from damage due to everyday wear.

The rhodium plating on white gold jewellery is thin and can wear off over time, revealing the inner layer of gold alloy underneath. This can be due to several factors, including individual body chemistry, strong household cleaning chemicals, and excessive abrasion or physical damage. The plating normally lasts between 12 and 18 months before it becomes noticeably diminished. The amount of time it takes for the plating to wear away depends on the type of jewellery. For example, earrings that don't experience much rubbing will last longer than rings or bracelets.

To prevent rhodium plating from wearing off, it is recommended to avoid situations where the jewellery can be abraded. For example, removing rings and bracelets before washing your hands can help protect the plating. It is also advised to not wear white gold jewellery while working in adverse conditions, such as hot kitchens, swimming pools, or any job that involves exposure to harsh chemicals. Additionally, white gold jewellery should not be worn in the shower, as hot water and abrasive soaps can easily strip the rhodium plating.

If your white gold jewellery has discoloured, there are simple solutions. You can take it to a jeweller to have a fresh coat of rhodium plating added. This process is quick, typically taking around 90 minutes. Alternatively, you can follow these maintenance tips to slow down the discolouration process:

• Do not use abrasive cloths and liquids to clean your rhodium-plated jewellery.
• Protect it from makeup, solvents, and cleaning products.
• Avoid using alcohol, which is corrosive, and laundry detergents, which can leave an oily film on the surface.
• Use soapy water at 40 degrees Celsius to clean your jewellery. Soak the item for around 15 minutes, then brush it with a small soft brush. Rinse with cold water and wipe it dry. If the jewellery has stones, wait for it to be completely cold before rinsing to avoid temperature shocks. You can finish by polishing with a lens cloth.

Preventing discolouration

If you want to keep your wedding band from turning yellow, there are a few things you can do. Firstly, it's important to understand that white gold is not truly white, and will always have a slight yellowish tint. This is because it is an alloy composed of 75% yellow gold and 25% nickel, silver, or palladium. To give it a brilliant white look, white gold is rhodium-plated. Over time, the rhodium plating can wear off, revealing the natural colour of the gold underneath.

To prevent discolouration, it is recommended to take your wedding band to a jeweller every 2-3 years for a new rhodium plating. This will restore the original beauty and brightness of the ring. In between these treatments, you can slow down the discolouration process by following a few simple maintenance rules:

• Avoid using abrasive cloths and liquids to clean your rhodium-plated wedding band.
• Protect it from makeup, solvents, and cleaning products.
• Do not use alcohol or laundry detergents to clean your ring, as these can be corrosive or leave an oily film on the surface.
• Instead, clean your ring with soapy water at 40 degrees Celsius. Soak the ring for around 15 minutes, then brush it with a small soft brush. Rinse the ring with cold water and wipe it dry. If your ring has stones, make sure it is completely cold before rinsing to avoid any temperature shocks. You can finish by polishing it with a lens cloth.
• Avoid wearing your ring in adverse conditions, such as hot kitchens, swimming pools, or any situation where it could be exposed to harsh chemicals.
• Take off your ring before showering, as hot water and abrasive soaps can easily strip the rhodium plating.

By following these tips, you can help keep your wedding band looking shiny and bright, and slow down the natural process of discolouration.

Re-plating process

The re-plating process involves coating your wedding band with a fresh layer of rhodium. This is because, over time, the rhodium plating on white gold jewellery wears off, revealing the yellowish tint of the gold alloy underneath. The rhodium layer is thin, usually only a few microns thick, so it can be lost through individual body chemistry, strong household cleaning chemicals, or excessive abrasion.

To restore the white colour of your wedding band, you can take it to a jeweller to have it re-plated. This process typically takes around 90 minutes and costs between $100 and $200. However, prices can vary depending on the complexity of the setting and style.

To maintain the plating for as long as possible, it is recommended to avoid situations where your jewellery can be abraded. For example, if you work with your hands or in adverse conditions such as hot kitchens or swimming pools, it is best to remove your ring. It is also advised to take off your ring before showering, as hot water and abrasive soaps can easily strip the rhodium plating.

Additionally, when cleaning your wedding band, avoid using abrasive cloths and liquids, and protect it from makeup, solvents, and cleaning products. Instead, use a soft brush and soapy water at 40 degrees Celsius to gently clean your jewellery.

Other metals and discolouration

It is not just gold that discolours the skin; copper is the most common culprit for skin discolouration. Copper jewellery will often leave a green hue on the skin due to an oxidation process that occurs when the metal is combined with skin. Copper reacts with skin perspiration, and the result is chelated copper pieces that absorb into the skin and turn it green. This process is believed to have health benefits, including relief from arthritis and circulation issues.

Other metals that can cause skin discolouration include gold and silver. This is because rarely are gold and silver jewellery made entirely of one material. They are simply too soft in their pure forms to be used in jewellery, so it is standard to mix metals with alloys to strengthen them. Copper and nickel are commonly used in these alloys and are known to discolour skin.

Any metal plated over with silver can form tarnish and leave a black or dark grey smudge on your skin. Sterling silver can also cause discolouration, as it is mixed with alloyed metals to harden it, and copper is often added to the mix. However, the percentage of copper used is usually less than 8%.

Brass, an alloy made from copper and zinc, also commonly discolours skin and tarnishes. Many elements cause brass to turn skin green, including humidity, skin oils, and sweat.

To prevent skin discolouration, you can minimise your copper jewellery or only wear it sparingly and for short periods. You can also get your jewellery rhodium-plated, which will put a protective layer between the jewellery and your skin and increase the lifespan of your jewellery.

Frequently asked questions