Rhiannon Hendricks
Traditional Japanese wedding dresses, known as shiromuku, are often white, a custom that is believed to have originated with Queen Victoria's wedding gown in 1840. The white shiromuku is a pure, silk kimono embroidered with intricate patterns and accessorized with a wataboshi (a bridal kimono hood) and a tsunokakushi, a headpiece that symbolizes a bride's obedience to her husband. While the colour white generally symbolizes purity and the bride's willingness to take on the groom's family colours, some believe it represents death, drawing a connection to the white burial clothes, shiroshozoku, worn by the deceased.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Traditional colour of wedding kimono | Red and black |
| Popular colour of wedding kimono | White |
| Reason for popularity of white | Influenced by Western tradition |
| White kimono traditionally worn for | Funerals |
| Colour of kimono worn for funerals now | Black |
| Colour of wedding gowns | White |
| Reason for colour of wedding gowns | Influenced by Queen Victoria's wedding gown |
| Traditional Japanese wedding attire | Kimonos |
| Groom's kimono | Five layers, white inner layers, solid black outer robe, embroidered with the family crest |
| Bride's kimono | Shiromuku (pure white, embroidered silk kimono) |
| Alternative to shiromuku | Iro-uchikake (coloured robe, often red, embroidered with gold and silver thread) |
| Accessories with iro-uchikake | Tsunokakushi (to keep jealousy at bay) or wataboshi (a bridal veil equivalent) |
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What You'll Learn
The influence of Western traditions
The colour white is a popular choice for wedding kimonos in Japan, despite the fact that it was traditionally worn for funerals. There are several theories as to why this Western tradition has been adopted in Japan. One theory suggests that the white wedding gown became popular in Japan due to the influence of Queen Victoria, who wore a white wedding gown in 1840, which spread not only in Britain but also in many other countries of the world, including Japan, in the 20th century.
Another theory suggests that the adoption of Western funeral customs during the Russo-Japanese War or World War II led to the decline of wearing white at funerals in Japan. As funerals were frequently held during the war, dressing in black became more practical as white clothes were not easily cleaned. This shift may have contributed to the association of white with weddings instead of funerals in Japan.
It is worth noting that the choice of attire in Japanese weddings often depends on the style of the wedding. For example, a Christian-style wedding may feature a white dress and tuxedo, while a Shinto-style wedding typically involves resplendent kimonos. However, it is common for couples to change outfits multiple times during the ceremony, blending Western and traditional Japanese attire.
The white wedding kimono in Japan is known as the "shiromuku", which is believed to symbolise purity and the bride's willingness to be "dyed" by the groom's family colours. Interestingly, there is also a contrasting theory that suggests the white colour symbolises death, derived from the white burial clothes called "shiroshozoku".
The choice of wearing white may also be influenced by the desire to emulate Western traditions, as some couples consider incorporating Western-style outfits, such as a white evening dress or a tuxedo, as part of their wedding attire.
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Symbolism of purity
The colour white is often associated with purity and innocence in many cultures. In the context of weddings, the bride's white dress is seen as a symbol of purity and virginity. This tradition is believed to have originated with Queen Victoria, who wore a white wedding gown in 1840. The custom quickly spread beyond Britain, influencing wedding traditions in many countries, including Japan.
In Japan, traditional wedding attire often includes kimonos. While red and black are the usual colours for wedding kimonos, white is also a popular choice. The white kimono, known as "shiromuku", is believed to symbolise the bride's purity and willingness to be "dyed" by the groom's colours, indicating her transition into a new family.
However, there is another interpretation of the white kimono's symbolism. In Japanese culture, white is also the colour of funeral attire. Traditionally, the deceased were dressed in white burial clothes called "shiroshozoku". Thus, the white kimono in a wedding context may also symbolise death and the bride's departure from her own family.
It is worth noting that the choice of white for weddings in Japan may also be influenced by Western traditions. The custom of wearing black to funerals, which originated in Western countries, was adopted in Japan during a period of frequent wars, likely the Russo-Japanese War or World War II. As a result, white funeral attire was replaced by black, and the association of white with death may have faded over time.
Today, white wedding kimonos remain popular in Japan, although the original symbolism may not be widely known. Brides who choose to wear white kimonos may be influenced by a combination of traditional beliefs, Western influences, and personal preferences, creating a unique blend of old and new in Japanese wedding traditions.
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The shiromuku kimono
The shiromuku is a traditional Japanese wedding kimono, worn by brides during Shinto wedding ceremonies. The kimono is white and is worn with a matching obi (broad sash) and other accessories such as a bridal katsura (bridal wig), a set of matching kanzashi (usually mock tortoiseshell), and a sensu fan. The shiromuku symbolises the purity of the bride coming into the marriage.
The shiromuku is typically rented rather than purchased, due to its high cost. It is part of a bridal ensemble, which includes the kimono and a range of accessories. The shiromuku is worn with a colourful overcoat called an uchikake, which is worn during the wedding ceremony and events. The uchikake is a hand-woven and embroidered overcoat that takes hundreds of hours to produce. It is designed to be worn over a complete kimono outfit with an obi and is not designed to be worn belted.
The shiromuku is also known as the iro-uchikake, a coloured robe that is often bright red and intricately embroidered with gold and silver threads. The shiromuku kimono is traditionally worn with zori shoes, which are usually white, and a handbag called a hakoseko, which is also white to match the all-white ensemble.
The shiromuku is a formal and traditional Japanese garment, with a distinctive wrapped-front design and square sleeves. The kimono has a set method of construction and is typically made from a long, narrow bolt of cloth known as a tanmono. The shiromuku is a type of kimono suitable for formal occasions, along with funerals, graduations, and other formal events.
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The decline of wearing white at funerals
In Western cultures, black has traditionally been the predominant colour of mourning attire, with dark colours such as grey and navy also favoured for their somber and respectful appearance. However, as societal attitudes evolve, perspectives on appropriate funeral attire have also started to shift. Some individuals and families now embrace the idea of celebrating the life and legacy of the departed, rather than solely mourning, leading to more flexible interpretations of funeral attire etiquette.
In this evolving context, the question of whether it is proper to wear white to a funeral does not have a definitive answer. While wearing white to a funeral may still be considered unconventional and associated with joyous occasions like weddings, modern perspectives on mourning attire are becoming increasingly lenient. The decision to wear white is ultimately a personal one influenced by individual beliefs, preferences, and relationships with the deceased.
In some cultures, white is worn as a symbol of mourning, purity, or rebirth, while in others, it may be associated with celebration or festive occasions. For example, in West African tradition, white is considered a holy or paternal colour, symbolising faith, new life, or a clean beginning. Understanding the cultural and religious context of the funeral is crucial in determining appropriate attire choices.
When deciding what to wear to a funeral, it is essential to show respect, sensitivity, and support to the grieving family and other mourners. Communicating with the family or funeral organisers for guidance can help ensure that attire choices are respectful and appropriate for the occasion. While certain attire choices, such as bright and flashy colours, may be perceived as disrespectful or inappropriate, subdued and neutral tones are generally preferred.
With regard to Japanese wedding dresses, white is a popular colour choice, influenced by the white wedding gown popularised by Queen Victoria in the 19th century. In contrast, white kimonos were traditionally worn for funerals in Japan, but this custom declined during wartime, as dressing in black, in the manner of Western countries, became more common. Today, white wedding kimonos remain popular in Japan, although many people may be unaware of the traditional symbolism of white.
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The bride's multiple outfits
The bride's outfit during a Japanese wedding is steeped in tradition and symbolism. Brides in Japan often change outfits multiple times throughout the wedding day. While there is no set number of times a bride should change her outfit, it is common for brides to change their attire two to three times, with some weddings seeing up to five outfit changes.
The first outfit is usually a white kimono, known as a shiromuku, which is a pure white, embroidered silk kimono. The shiromuku is worn for the traditional Shinto ceremony, which is held at a Shinto shrine, the native religion of Japan. The Shinto ceremony is officiated by a priest in a ritual called shinzenshiki, or "marriage before the gods". For this ceremony, the bride wears a white wataboshi or tsunokakushi, a big white hat that is the Japanese equivalent of a veil, along with a wig underneath. The wataboshi is a voluminous, domed hat that covers an elaborate hairdo. The tsunokakushi, which means "hides her horns", is believed to keep jealousy at bay. The shiromuku is accessorised with an elaborate headpiece and a dagger, which the bride conceals in her robe to protect her family.
The second outfit is often a colourful kimono, such as the iro-uchikake, a brightly coloured kimono with red as the main colour, intricately embroidered in gold and silver threads. The bride may also choose to wear a western-style white wedding gown for a chapel ceremony, with the groom dressed in a tuxedo.
For the reception, the bride typically changes into a formal or cocktail dress. This could be a western-style white or red evening dress.
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Frequently asked questions
The tradition of wearing white wedding dresses in Japan is influenced by the white wedding gown worn by Queen Victoria in 1840. Televised weddings, pop culture, and social media have also contributed to the popularity of white wedding dresses in Japan.
The colour white in Japanese wedding dresses is associated with the idea of purity and the bride's willingness to be "dyed" by the groom's colours. However, some believe that the colour symbolises death, as it was the colour of burial clothes in Japan.
Japanese wedding dresses are called kimonos. The white wedding kimono is called a shiromuku, and it is typically embroidered with gold or silver threads.
