Franklin Dean
The 1960s Rock n' Roll era brought about a shift in engagement ring trends, with non-traditional diamond cuts and coloured gemstones rising in popularity. This shift towards unconventional styles continued into the 1970s, with geometric designs crafted from yellow gold and accented with colourful gemstones becoming particularly fashionable.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Designs | Geometric, sculptural, and bohemian |
| Gemstones | Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, lapis lazuli, pearls, and topaz |
| Metals | Yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum |
| Cultural Influence | Individuality and rebellion |
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What You'll Learn
Yellow gold was a popular choice
In the 1970s, yellow gold continued to be a prevalent choice for engagement rings. Many of these rings featured brilliant-cut diamonds set in 18-karat yellow gold. For example, a vintage ring from the 1970s features a brilliant-cut diamond in a hexagonal setting, with a weight of 0.44 carats. Another ring from this era is crafted in 18-karat yellow gold and showcases a large lapis lazuli cabochon orb within a sculptural swirl of heavily textured gold.
Yellow gold was also combined with other gemstones to create unique and elegant designs. For instance, a vintage ring from the 1970s features a pearl, diamond, and textured 18-karat yellow gold band, designed by Gerda Flöckinger in the United Kingdom. Another ring from this era showcases a marquise sapphire surrounded by diamonds, all set in 18-karat yellow gold.
The popularity of yellow gold extended beyond engagement rings to include wedding bands as well. A striking Cartier cocktail ring from the 1970s is crafted in 18-karat yellow gold and features a dramatic red coral cabochon. Additionally, a signet ring from 1972 combines a deep red carnelian stone with 9-karat yellow gold.
Yellow gold has continued to be a classic and timeless choice for wedding and engagement rings, offering a warm and radiant appearance that symbolizes everlasting love.
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Rings featured geometric designs
The 1970s saw a continuation of the bold, colourful designs that had emerged in the 1960s. This was also true of engagement and wedding rings of the time, which often featured geometric designs.
The Art Deco era, which spanned from 1915 to the 1930s, influenced the designs of the 1970s, with both periods featuring bold, dynamic, and colourful creations within milgrain and geometric designs. During the 1970s, rings with geometric designs were crafted in solid yellow or white gold, featuring a variety of gemstones, including diamonds, rubies, sapphires, opals, and emeralds.
One example of a geometric ring from the 1970s is a sculptural ring designed by McTeigue. This ring was crafted in solid yellow gold with a cushioned shape and sharp edges. It is embellished with a rectangular carving of natural blue lapis lazuli and four white diamonds. Another example is a ring from the same decade, featuring an octagonal head set with a vivid red ruby and complementary trapezoid-cut diamonds.
The use of geometric designs in the 1970s can also be seen in the architecture and interior design of the time, with bold shapes and patterns often featured in furniture, wallpaper, and other decorative elements.
Overall, the 1970s offered a variety of unique and colourful engagement and wedding ring styles, with geometric designs being a popular choice that added a bold and dynamic touch to the jewellery of the decade.
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Rubies and sapphires were common
The 1970s saw a shift in jewellery design, with bold and innovative styles taking centre stage. This decade witnessed a confident embrace of unusual shapes, psychedelic colours, and colourful gemstones. Amidst this creative explosion, rubies and sapphires emerged as popular choices for engagement and wedding rings.
Rubies, with their vivid red hue, added a touch of drama and romance to the rings of the 1970s. One notable example is the Vintage Buccellati Ruby Engagement Ring, crafted in 18k gold and accented with diamonds. The centrepiece of this ring is a stunning ruby, approximately 7.40 carats, that steals the show. Another ruby ring from this era features an octagonal faceted cut ruby, prized for its extraordinary clarity and crystal structure.
Sapphires, on the other hand, brought a sense of cool elegance to the 1970s engagement and wedding rings. Ceylon sapphires, in particular, were sought after for their vivid blue colour. A rare Ceylon sapphire ring from this era features a 2.82-carat oval sapphire from Sri Lanka, making it a truly exceptional piece. For those who preferred a more subtle approach, white gold rings with deep blue oval-cut sapphires surrounded by small diamonds were also an option.
The 1970s offered a range of styles, from bold and eye-catching to timeless and distinctive. The use of rubies and sapphires, often accented with diamonds, created a unique and colourful take on traditional engagement and wedding rings. These gemstones added a touch of luxury and a pop of colour to the rings of this era, reflecting the confidence and creativity of the time.
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Lapis lazuli was a notable feature
In the 1970s, wedding and engagement rings featured a variety of designs, including bold and colourful styles. While I could not find an abundance of information on lapis lazuli rings specifically in 1972, the gemstone was a notable feature in rings from the 1970s, as well as in the preceding and following decades.
Lapis lazuli, with its deep and rich blue colour, was used in rings as early as the 2nd century AD. In the 1970s, lapis lazuli was often paired with yellow gold, a metal that featured prominently in rings from this decade. For example, a lapis lazuli ring crafted by Grosse in Germany in 1972 featured two round-cut pieces of lapis lazuli, each measuring 13mm, accented with three estimated 0.05-carat diamonds. The ring was made from 18-karat yellow gold and designed in the Brutalist style, which was popular during the 1970s. Another lapis lazuli ring from the 1970s features an 18-karat yellow gold setting with a cushioned shape and sharp edges. This ring is embellished with a rectangular carving of natural blue lapis lazuli and four white, colourless diamonds.
Lapis lazuli was also used in combination with other gemstones during this period. For instance, a vintage ring from the 1960s to the 1970s features lapis lazuli and diamonds in a shamrock design, crafted in 14-karat yellow gold. Additionally, a ring from the 1970s features a flower design with a flower crown made of four pave and claw-set Siberian diamonds. The ring is crafted in white gold and accented with a blue oval-cut sapphire.
The use of lapis lazuli in rings continued beyond the 1970s, with vintage and antique rings from later decades also featuring this gemstone. For example, a Van Cleef & Arpels ring features a unique design with a beautiful oval cabochon of lapis lazuli set in 18-karat yellow gold. Similarly, a Bvlgari ring showcases a deep blue lapis lazuli in a fine 18-karat yellow gold tension setting. These rings, while not from the 1970s, demonstrate the enduring appeal of lapis lazuli as a notable feature in jewellery design.
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Platinum settings were used
In the 1970s, platinum settings were used for wedding and engagement rings. Platinum had become a popular metal for jewellery settings in the late 19th century, when jewellers such as Tiffany & Co and Cartier began to use it in their diamond collections. Platinum was often used as a decorative flourish on gold designs, or the two metals were combined to create hybrid jewels. Platinum was particularly prized for its strength, which exceeded that of gold, as well as its cool-grey colour that, unlike white gold, required no maintenance.
Platinum was especially popular for wedding and engagement rings in the Edwardian period, when it was used alongside diamonds (particularly large ones) and stunning filigree work. It was also the main metal used for Art Deco rings, which featured geometric designs and strict linear styles. During the Art Deco period, platinum was sometimes combined with white gold and sterling silver. However, during World War II, platinum disappeared from use, and white gold mixed with silver and palladium alloys became more common for rings.
In the 1970s, platinum settings were used for diamond engagement rings, with GIA-certified old circular brilliant cut diamonds at their centre. Platinum was also used for dramatic mid-century diamond engagement rings, featuring rare Ceylon no-heat sapphires. In addition, platinum settings were combined with 14K rose and white gold for rings featuring Russian brilliant diamond cut natural Siberian diamonds.
While platinum was used for wedding and engagement rings in the 1970s, other metals were also popular. For example, yellow gold was used for a chic octagonal ring featuring a vivid red ruby and complementary diamonds. Yellow gold was also used for a ring featuring a blue lapis lazuli stone and four white diamonds, as well as a double horse head ring.
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Frequently asked questions
Engagement rings in the early 1970s frequently featured yellow gold settings and distinctive diamond cuts that allowed wearers to express their creativity. Chunky, gold rings with angular and geometric diamond cuts were popular, with uniqueness taking precedence over size.
Wedding rings in the early 1970s often featured gold bands, sometimes with diamonds set in a channel or groove carved into the band. The coordination of the engagement ring with a wedding band to form a matching bridal set was also popularised in the 1970s.
Yes, engagement rings in the 1970s often reflected the era's floral power and joy. They frequently incorporated natural materials like sapphires, turquoise, and opals, set in yellow gold or silver.
One popular brand of wedding and engagement rings in the 1970s was Orange Blossom, which was given as a wedding set to a user's mother in 1970.
