Deborah Chan
The image that typically comes to mind when we think of wedding dresses is that of an elaborate and elegant white dress. However, wedding traditions and fashions have evolved over the centuries. For instance, in Elizabethan England, the legal age for girls to marry was 12, and 14 for boys, although Sir Thomas More, an advisor to the Queen, recommended 18 and 22, respectively. During this era, the ideal bride wore her hair down, with a middle parting and curls at the ends, and a crown or small cap of herbs, such as thyme, rosemary, and lavender. The dress would be corseted, with a balloon-like skirt achieved through multiple petticoats, and made of heavy gold or silver brocade with rows of tiny buttons. White was not a popular choice, and colours such as gold, dark green, deep yellow, and dusky pink were favoured.
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What You'll Learn
Hairstyles and headdresses
For the wedding day, a bride would wear a crown or small cap of herbs, consisting of thyme, rosemary, and lavender. This was likely due to the fact that baths and general hygiene were still uncommon, so the herbs would help to mask any unpleasant odours.
The bride would also carry a bouquet of herbs in the shape of a ball or a pomander, with a ribbon attached to act as a handle. The perfume from the pomander would make the air around the bride pleasant-smelling. Her bridesmaids would carry smaller herbal posies, with different herbs chosen for each bridesmaid to create a variety of complementary scents and colours. The aisles of the church and candelabras would also be decorated with herbs, as would the table settings for the wedding feast.
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Corsets and petticoats
The Elizabethan era, from the late 15th century to the early 17th century, was a time of elegance and grandeur, with a focus on opulence and refinement in fashion. Central to this era's style were the intricate layers of undergarments that created the distinctive silhouettes of the time.
Corsets played a pivotal role in shaping the iconic Elizabethan silhouette. Contrary to popular belief, these corsets were not designed to drastically cinch the waist. Instead, they aimed to enhance the natural curves of the wearer, emphasising a rounded bosom and narrow waist. This created an aura of femininity and grace, reflecting the era's romanticised beauty ideals.
Petticoats were another essential component of the Elizabethan wardrobe. Crafted from luxurious fabrics like silk or satin, these underskirts added volume and shape to the skirt, creating a sense of extravagance. Petticoats were often layered, with multiple petticoats creating a sense of abundance and opulence.
The bodice and the petticoat were often sewn together, lessening the bulk under the outer gowns and keeping the petticoat in place. This combination also helped distribute the weight of heavy gowns more comfortably. Boned bodies, or corsets, were also tied or "pointed" to petticoats, creating a unified foundation garment.
The Elizabethan era's influence on fashion is still felt today. The intricate layering of structured bodices and subtle shaping of lingerie reflect the era's emphasis on accentuating the human form. The corsets and petticoats of the Elizabethan Renaissance continue to inspire contemporary designers, leaving an enduring mark on the fashion landscape.
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Fabric and colour
The dresses themselves were often made of heavy gold or silver brocade, with rows of tiny buttons. The bodice was an important feature, and the skirt was large and balloon-like, achieved through the use of corsets and multiple petticoats underneath the dress. The hair of the bride was also an important aspect of the overall look, with women of this era wearing their waist-length hair down, parted in the middle, and sometimes curled at the ends. A crown or small cap of herbs, typically thyme, rosemary, and lavender, was often worn as part of the wedding attire.
Silk was another fabric used for Elizabethan wedding dresses, as seen in a modern recreation of an Elizabethan-style wedding dress, which featured a silk skirt and a bodice influenced by the styling of the era.
While the colour white was not as popular, some women did choose to wear white for their wedding. However, this was not the norm, and other colours such as gold, green, yellow, and pink were more commonly chosen.
The choice of fabric and colour for an Elizabethan wedding dress was influenced by the fashion and customs of the time. The large, balloon-like skirts and the emphasis on hair and herbs as part of the bridal attire reflect the aesthetic ideals of the Elizabethan era.
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Age of marriage
People often have the misconception that children were married off during Elizabethan times. This is perhaps due to the influence of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, where Juliet is said to be 'not yet fourteen'. However, the reality is that most ordinary people in Elizabethan England got married in their twenties.
The age of consent was 12 for girls and 14 for boys, but for most children, puberty came two or three years later than it does today. Parental consent was required for those under 21. Despite the low age of consent, relatively late marriages were common for both sexes. For the middle classes, marriages typically took place after a period of apprenticeship, which could last into the early or mid-twenties, allowing individuals to gain the financial resources to set up a new household.
The average age of marriage for men was probably the same or slightly older than that of women. In 1619, it was about 23 for women and 26 for men. In the late 16th century, the average age of marriage for women in and around Stratford-upon-Avon dropped to about 20.6 years. Shakespeare himself married Anne Hathaway at the age of 18, which was under the age of consent, so he would have required his father's consent.
Courtship and wooing also played a role in delaying marriage. The concept of courtship derived from the Elizabethan era, where ladies of the court were wooed through gestures like visits, gifts, and compliments. Men generally asked the woman's father for permission to court his daughter.
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Wedding bouquets
The practice of carrying bridal bouquets dates back to ancient times, with sources tracing its origins to ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. In these early civilizations, brides carried sheaths of wheat or fragrant herbs like rosemary and thyme, which were believed to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck. These bouquets were much smaller than the arrangements that we see today and were chosen for their symbolic meanings. For instance, lilies symbolized purity, roses represented love, and orange blossoms stood for fidelity.
During the Elizabethan era, wedding bouquets became smaller, hand-tied creations, often incorporating nosegays and sachets. This period marked the beginning of floriography, or the "language of flowers," where specific blooms conveyed emotions and messages. Elizabethan brides also adorned their hair with flower garlands and gave small floral posies as favors to their guests.
The Victorian era brought about a transformation in the role of flowers in weddings. Influenced by Queen Victoria's own wedding in 1840, floriography became a vital part of the culture, with couples infusing their bouquets with deeply personal messages and wishes for their marriages. Roses, for example, had nuanced meanings depending on their color: red for deep love and respect, white for purity and new beginnings, pink for admiration and joy, and yellow for friendship.
Today, wedding bouquets continue to hold symbolic significance, but they also serve as decorative accessories that highlight the florals and décor of the wedding ceremony space. Brides now have a vast array of choices, from classic and elegant styles to creative and modern arrangements. Sustainability and locally sourced flowers are gaining popularity, along with personal touches like heirloom brooches or meaningful foliage. Alternative options such as cascading arrangements, arm bouquets, and flower crowns are also becoming increasingly popular.
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Frequently asked questions
Elizabethan wedding dresses were large, with a corseted body and many petticoats underneath to create a balloon-like skirt. The dresses were made of heavy gold or silver brocade, with rows of tiny buttons. Some brides wore white, but this was not a popular choice at the time.
Brides carried a bouquet of herbs in the shape of a ball or a pomander. A ribbon would be attached to the bouquet as a handle. The bridesmaids would carry smaller herbal posies.
Thyme, rosemary, and lavender were used in Elizabethan weddings. The bride's bouquet and the herbal posies carried by the bridesmaids would infuse the air with pleasant smells. Herbs were also attached to candelabras and table settings at the wedding feast.
Hygiene and dental care were not common practices in Elizabethan times, so herbs were all the rage. Brides wore their waist-length hair down, with a middle parting and curls at the ends. They often wore a crown or small cap of herbs, and it was considered attractive to act the part of a "faire maiden".
Girls could marry as young as 12, and boys at 14, with parental permission. However, Sir Thomas More, an advisor to the Queen, recommended that girls wait until they were 18 and boys until they were 22. Noble families tended to follow this practice.
