Deborah Chan
Underlining is a sewing technique that involves adding a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric of a garment, such as a wedding dress. It is often used to add structure, stability, and opacity to the fabric, and can also be utilised to change the colour or weight of the fabric. When underlining, the two layers of fabric are treated as one, creating a cohesive and professional finish. This technique is particularly useful for sheer or delicate fabrics that require additional support. By using underlining, sewists can elevate their creations and ensure a comfortable and luxurious feel.
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What You'll Learn
Underlining vs lining
Underlining and lining are two different methods of adding a second layer of fabric to a garment. Underlining is a technique that adds structure and weight to sewing projects. It involves cutting a second layer of fabric using the same pattern pieces as the original fabric and then sewing the two layers together near the seam allowance. These two layers are then sewn as if they are one single piece of fabric. Underlining is often used in tailored and couture garments to add body structure to the fabric. For example, if you are making a sharply tailored blazer with a soft fabric, underlining with a fine cotton muslin can help give the fabric a crisper hand and hold a more defined shape. It can also be used to make transparent fabrics more opaque and to hide seam allowances, seam lines, and other construction details. Underlining can also provide a layer to secure hand stitching so that the stitches are invisible from the right side of the garment.
Lining, on the other hand, is a separate unit that is only attached to the main fabric in a few key areas, such as the neckline, sleeves, waistband, or facing. It creates a smooth layer that helps garments lay smoothly against the body and hides the construction of the garment so that seams are not visible or felt when wearing it. Linings are generally assembled separately from the outer layer of the garment and then stitched together at the end.
In some cases, both underlining and lining may be used in the same garment. For example, in a wedding dress, underlining can be used to add structure and opacity to the skirt, while a lining can be added to create a smooth and comfortable layer against the skin.
When deciding whether to use underlining or lining, it is important to consider the purpose and desired outcome of the garment. Underlining is ideal for adding structure, weight, or opacity to a fabric, while lining is better suited for creating a smooth and comfortable layer that hides the construction of the garment.
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Why underlining is important
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, which is treated as one with the main fabric. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit that is only attached to the main fabric in a few areas. Underlining is important for several reasons:
Firstly, it adds structure and stability to the garment. By using underlining, you can give body to loosely woven or unstable fabrics, making them hold their shape better. This is especially useful for wedding dresses, which often require fitted structures. For example, underlining can be used to add stiffness or weight to a fabric that is too drapey or lightweight.
Secondly, underlining can be used to adjust the opacity of a garment. It can make transparent fabrics more opaque, ensuring that the wearer's underwear or certain pockets are not visible. This is achieved by creating a 2-ply fabric, where the underlining fabric is treated as one with the main fabric.
Thirdly, underlining can help to conceal construction details such as seam allowances, seam lines, and other imperfections. It provides a clean and professional finish to the garment, making it look more expensive and luxurious.
Additionally, underlining can be used to add a layer of warmth to a garment. This is particularly useful for wedding dresses that are meant to be worn in colder climates or during the winter season.
Lastly, underlining can be used to strengthen delicate fabrics such as lace or vintage materials. It provides additional support, ensuring that the garment is comfortable and durable.
In summary, underlining is an important technique in wedding dress design as it enhances the structure, opacity, finish, warmth, and strength of the garment. It is a key step in taking a wedding dress from homemade to couture.
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How to sew an underlining
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath your main fabric, creating a 2-ply fabric where the two fabrics are treated as one. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit that is only attached to the main fabric in a few key areas. Underlining adds body and stability to loosely woven fabrics and can make transparent fabrics opaque. It can also add warmth to your fabric by adding a thermal layer.
- Choose an appropriate fabric for your underlining. Consider the weight, opacity, and ease of marking, washing, drying, and pressing. Muslin, for example, is a popular choice for underlining as it is inexpensive, stable, strong, and easy to work with.
- Create a mockup dress or a muslin mockup to test the fit and feel of your garment. This will also allow you to mark and cut the fabric, saving time and money.
- Take apart your mockup dress and iron each piece flat.
- Lay out your fashion fabric and carefully place the mockup pieces onto the backside, ensuring that all grainlines are matched.
- Pin the fabrics together and cut them out.
- Hand baste the underlining to your fashion fabric. Hand basting stitches are softer and more forgiving, allowing you to make adjustments as you work.
- Secure your underlining to your main fabric in all the key areas. Stitch within the dart, taking care not to go past the tip.
- Hem the underlining separately before sewing the side seams and centre back seams. Finish the edges of the underlining with a zig-zag or overlock stitch.
- Stitch within the side seam allowance to join the underlining with the main fabric. Repeat this step at the centre back.
- Sew the side seams and centre back, treating the two layers as one.
- Hem the main fabric last, ensuring that the underlining hem is out of the way so that it can hang free in between seams.
Some additional tips to keep in mind:
- Underline only where necessary. Consider whether a lining would serve the same purpose without adding unnecessary bulk.
- When underlining a skirt, stitch up the centre of each dart before sewing your darts to prevent the layers from moving out of place.
- For longer and more flared skirts, consider leaving the underlining free-hanging at the hem to prevent unsightly bunching.
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Types of fabric used for underlining
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, which is treated as one with the main fabric. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit that is only attached to the main fabric in a few key areas. Underlining provides support to the main fabric and can be used to change its properties, such as making it stiffer or heavier, or adding a thermal layer.
When it comes to wedding dresses, the fabric used for the underlining can depend on the desired style and silhouette of the gown. Some common fabrics used for wedding dress underlining include:
- Silk: A natural, breathable fabric that creates a fluid, elegant silhouette. It is often associated with more expensive, high-end bridal looks.
- Satin: A luxurious choice that adds a hint of sheen to the gown and is excellent for maintaining structure in form-fitting dresses.
- Taffeta: A crisp fabric that creates a rustling sound when the wearer moves. It is ideal for creating volume in ball gowns and A-line styles.
- Charmeuse: A lightweight, glossy fabric that drapes beautifully, making it ideal for slim-fitting dresses.
- Georgette: A fabric that offers a subtle texture and slight sheerness, adding a touch of romance to lace and sheer wedding dress styles.
- Tulle: A type of netting that can be used to add volume to a wedding gown. It is often used in combination with a firmer net to create a fuller, more structured silhouette.
- Net: A firmer net with a larger hexagonal knit can be used to add volume and structure to a wedding gown. Starch is sometimes added to the net to increase stiffness.
The choice of fabric for the underlining can also depend on the properties of the main fabric. For example, if the main fabric is sheer, an underlining can be used to make it more opaque.
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Benefits of underlining
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, with both layers treated as one. It is a technique that can elevate the quality of a wedding dress, taking it from homemade to couture. Here are some benefits of underlining:
Fabric Support and Structure
Underlining adds support and structure to loosely woven or lightweight fabrics, helping them hold their shape. It is particularly useful for sheer fabrics, as it adds opacity and prevents any show-through of seam allowances, seam lines, or other construction details. This ensures that the dress appears seamless and elegant, with no visible pockets or underwear.
Fabric Enhancement
Underlining can enhance the overall appearance and feel of the dress. It gives the dress a luxurious and expensive feel, adding body and a beautiful drape to the fabric. It can also help to shift the colour of the fashion fabric, depending on the colour of the underlining fabric chosen.
Ease of Construction
Underlining can make the sewing process easier, especially for beginners. It eliminates the need for separate linings in some areas, reducing the time and effort required. It also provides stability to the main fabric, making it easier to work with and resulting in a longer-lasting, professional-looking garment.
Creative Flexibility
Underlining allows for creative flexibility in the choice of fabric for the wedding dress. By using underlining, dressmakers can work with a wider range of fabrics, including those that are less-than-perfect or sheer, and transform them into fabulous, comfortable, and professional-quality garments.
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Frequently asked questions
Underlining is a layer of fabric underneath the main fabric, which is treated as one with the main fabric. It is different from lining, which is a separate unit that is only attached to the main fabric in a few key areas.
Underlining is used to add structure, stability, and body to the wedding dress. It can also be used to add a layer of opacity to an otherwise sheer fabric.
Underlining can help to hide seam "show-through" and create a smooth surface for the dress to skim over the body. It can also add warmth and strength to the fabric.
It is important to only underline where necessary and to consider whether a lining would serve the same purpose. It is also important to choose the right type of fabric for the underlining, such as muslin or silk organza.
The steps for applying underlining are to cut the fashion fabric and underlining from the same pattern pieces, pin the fabric and underlining together along the straight grain, and then stitch the two layers together.
