George Boyle
Wedding dresses with long trains are often bustled to create a shorter hemline, allowing the bride to walk freely and dance without tripping over her dress. This bustling process involves fastening the train to the rest of the dress using hooks, ties, or buttons. Brides can choose from various bustle styles, such as the French, American, or royal bustle, each creating a different aesthetic effect. The bustling task is typically delegated to a bridesmaid or family member, who should be prepared with safety pins and a sewing kit in case of any wardrobe malfunctions.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To secure bustles, buttons, and tricky closures with ease |
| Use | Fastening the train to the rest of the dress, allowing the bride to walk freely without tripping |
| Types | American, French/Victorian, Ballroom, Royal/Victorian, Bow |
| Placement | Along the waistline, under the dress, at the bottom of the lace-up detail on the inside, or at the bottom of the corset on the inside |
| Additional Tools | Safety pins, sewing needle, clear fishing line |
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What You'll Learn
Hooks and eyes for wedding dresses
Wedding dresses are often bustled, which means altering the gown to function as if it had no train. This is done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress so that the bride can walk freely without tripping over their dress. Hooks and eyes are commonly used to fasten the dress, and they are available in a variety of sizes and colours. They can be sewn through the loops to install them on the dress, and they are typically made of steel with a white enamel coating.
Hooks and eyes are ideal for bridal gowns as they provide a subtle and secure closure. They are often used at the top of a gown zipper to relieve horizontal stress and create a finished look. They can also be used for necklines, cuffs, lingerie, and skirt or dress closures.
In addition to hooks and eyes, other tools can be used to secure a wedding dress bustle, such as buttons, loops, or a bustle hook. The Button + Bustle Hook is a tool designed by bridal stylists to ease gown changes and protect delicate fabric. It can be used for securing a heavy bustle or managing tiny buttons down the back of a dress.
Preparing for potential wardrobe malfunctions is essential on a wedding day. It is recommended to have safety pins, a sewing needle, and clear fishing line on hand in case of any issues with the dress.
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Wedding dress bustles
There are several types of wedding dress bustles, with the American bustle and French bustle being the most common. The American bustle, also known as an over bustle, involves lifting the train and securing it over the back of the gown at the waistline using hooks. This style adds drama and creates a cascading effect with the fabric folds. Brides can choose from one, three, or even five bustle pickup points for a more dramatic look.
The French bustle, on the other hand, is the reverse of the American bustle. It is also called the Victorian bustle or underbustle and is often used with gowns that have a more natural waistline. Hooks are used to pick up the train and tuck it under the silhouette of the gown, sometimes with ribbons attached for extra security and flair.
The ballroom bustle is another style that gives the illusion that the gown was always floor-length, with multiple bustle points sewn around the bodice to allow the fabric to fold delicately into itself.
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress typically costs between $75 to $250, depending on the number of bustle points and the chosen style. It is important to work with an experienced seamstress who can recommend and create the best bustle for the gown's silhouette and fabric. Brides should also enlist the help of a bridesmaid or family member to learn how to manage the bustle, as it can be challenging to do so while wearing the dress.
Lastly, it is worth noting that some brides choose to leave their train flowing for the first dance before bustling their dress. This adds a touch of drama and elegance to their entrance before the practicalities of the reception take over.
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French/Victorian/under bustles
A wedding dress bustle is a feature that helps secure the fabric of a gown's train, allowing the wearer to move around with ease. There are several types of bustles, including French, Victorian, and under bustles.
French Bustle
The French bustle, also known as the under-bustle, is a technique where the train of the dress folds under itself instead of over, creating an understated two-layer hem at the back. Color-coordinated ribbons or numbers are added underneath the gown so that when the train is bustled, it tucks up neatly, creating a streamlined fold. This type of bustle is a popular choice for many dress silhouettes as it completely hides the train without altering the overall look of the dress.
Victorian Bustle
The Victorian bustle, also known as the royal bustle, can be simple or elaborate. It typically features multiple pickup points down and across the back, adding drama and dimension to the silhouette. This style is particularly suitable for gowns with a statement bow or sash at the back.
Under Bustle
The under-bustle is similar to the French bustle in that the train folds under itself, creating a two-layer hem. The main difference is that the under-bustle does not require additional ribbons or numbers, and the hooks are often visible, creating a design element at the back of the dress.
In summary, French, Victorian, and under bustles are all techniques used to secure the train of a wedding dress, improving the wearer's mobility and creating a desired aesthetic. The choice between these bustles depends on the specific dress silhouette, the desired level of drama, and the presence of design elements such as bows or sashes at the back of the gown.
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American bustles
An American bustle is a popular and versatile type of bustle, also known as an over-bustle. It is achieved by hooking the train up and over the outside of the dress, usually at one or more points, to create an elegant drape. This can be done at a single point for a simple look or at multiple points for a more layered, dramatic, and elaborate effect. Its versatility means it can be adapted to suit a variety of dress styles, from a classic sheath to a voluminous ball gown.
The American bustle is often favoured for its simplicity and ability to adapt to numerous wedding dress styles. Its flexibility and charm lend a unique grace to different types of gowns, enhancing their individual features while adding a functional element that enables brides to move and dance freely during their reception.
The American bustle works particularly well with a sheath dress. Characterised by its straight, fitted design, a sheath dress typically follows the body's natural line without flaring out. The simplicity of its silhouette is its strength, and the addition of an American bustle amplifies this elegance. The bustle adds a cascading effect down the back of the gown that adds depth and interest without distracting from the clean lines of the dress.
In contrast, an A-line wedding dress is defined by its gentle flare, starting fitted at the top and gradually widening out. An American bustle complements this style perfectly, giving it a playful yet balanced look. The bustle adds volume and visual interest to the back of the dress without overwhelming the gown's overall balance.
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Royal bustles
A wedding dress bustle is an alteration made to the back of a wedding dress to lift and secure the train to the rest of the dress, allowing the bride to move freely and avoid tripping over her ensemble. The bustle is often created using buttons, hooks, loops, or ribbons.
The royal bustle, also known as the Victorian or cathedral bustle, is considered the grandest of all bustle styles. It is perfect for brides seeking to manage a substantial, dramatic train on their wedding day. The royal bustle is designed to handle long, dramatic trains by folding and arranging the train and securing it with several attachment points. This results in dramatic folds that add instant visual interest to any wedding gown. The tiered or cascading effect of the royal bustle adds volume, classic elegance, and luxury to the gown.
The royal bustle can be simple or elaborate, depending on the desired look. It is often paired with A-line and ball gown silhouettes to enhance the voluminous appeal of the gown. The royal bustle also works well with cathedral-length trains, preserving the grandeur while making the train more manageable.
Adding a bustle to a wedding dress typically ranges in cost from $75 to $250, and it is important to have a trusted person, such as a maid of honour or a bridesmaid, help with bustling the dress on the wedding day.
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Frequently asked questions
Wedding dress hooks are used to fasten the train of the gown to the rest of the dress, allowing the bride to walk freely without tripping over her ensemble. This process is called bustling.
Bustling a wedding dress refers to the process of altering a bridal gown to function as if it had no train. This is usually done by fastening the train to the rest of the dress using hooks, ties, or buttons.
Hooking up the train of your wedding dress can help to create a uniform hemline and allow you to walk and dance freely without tripping. It can also be used to create a shorter hemline post-ceremony.
