George Boyle
The top part of a wedding dress, from the shoulder or neckline to the waist, is called the bodice. The bodice is usually form-fitting and structured, with features such as boning, cups, and seams to ensure a smooth and secure fit. The bottom half of a wedding dress is called the skirt, which comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, and lengths. The skirt is a crucial element that dictates the silhouette and overall aesthetic of the dress. The end of the dress is called the hem, which can be altered to adjust the length of the dress.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Top half | Bodice |
| Bottom half | Skirt |
| End of the dress | Hem |
| Train | A long portion at the back of the skirt that trails behind the bride when she walks |
| Sweetheart neckline | Resembles the top half of a heart shape, dipping slightly in the centre |
| V-neck | A V-shaped neckline with straps, which elongates the torso |
| Strapless | Held up by a skinny strap or fabric band over each shoulder |
| Off-the-shoulder | Expose the collarbones and upper arms |
| Illusion | Usually long or three-quarter length, made of sheer fabric adorned with lace or embellishments |
| Bishop | Gathers at the wrist, creating a voluminous and billowy effect |
| Sheath | Compliments your body shape naturally without being uncomfortable |
| Mermaid | Fitted from top to knees and then flares out in a tail line |
| Tea-length | Ends at the knees but has an elegant look |
| Trumpet | Similar to the Mermaid silhouette, remains fitted from the bust to the hips and then flares from the knees |
| Fabric | Satin, taffeta, organza, chiffon, tulle, charmeuse, crepe |
| Embellishments | Beading, lace, embroidery, 3-dimensional elements like silk flowers |
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What You'll Learn
The top half of a wedding dress is called the bodice
There are four main types of bodices used in the construction of a wedding dress: the corset, the V-neck, the princess seam, and the sweetheart. A corset bodice is structured with built-in boning and cups, providing support and shaping to the torso. A V-neck bodice has a V-shaped neckline with straps, elongating the torso and offering a streamlined silhouette. A princess seam bodice features long seams that run from the bust to the waist or hem, adding shape to the top half of the dress. Sweetheart necklines are shaped like the top half of a heart, dipping slightly in the centre, and are considered timeless and romantic.
The bodice is a significant part of the dress, as it can be styled in various ways to stand out. It can be decorative as well as functional, with some bodices structured to create a specific shape along the midriff, while others are more loosely fitted.
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The bottom half is called the skirt
The bottom half of a wedding dress is called the skirt. The skirt is an important part of the dress as it influences the overall look of the ensemble. Wedding dress skirts come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and lengths. They can be form-fitting, like sheath and mermaid skirts, or more voluminous, like A-line and ball gowns.
Skirts can be made up of several layers of fabric, even if they are slim or form-fitting. Wedding dress skirts will usually have more than one layer of fabric, with a lining of nude or white fabric underneath to prevent the dress from being sheer. The skirt can also feature pleats, with multiple pleats creating an 'accordion style' and two larger pleats forming a 'box style'.
The skirt of a wedding dress dictates the silhouette and aesthetic of the ensemble, so it is important to understand the different styles before choosing a dress. For example, a sheath dress is a fitted style that complements the body's natural shape, while a mermaid dress is fitted from the top to the knees and then flares out, creating an alluring look. A tea-length dress is a fun, casual style that ends at the knees but still has an elegant look.
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The skirt can be pleated, straight, or flared
The bottom half of a wedding dress is called the skirt. Wedding dress skirts come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and lengths. The skirt of a bridal gown dictates the silhouette and overall aesthetic of the ensemble, making it one of the most important parts of a wedding dress.
Straight skirts can be form-fitting, such as sheath and mermaid gowns, or less skin-hugging, like trumpet-shaped skirts. Mermaid skirts are fitted from the top to the knees and then flare out in a tail line, while trumpet skirts remain fitted from the bust to the hips before flaring out from the knees.
Flared skirts can be achieved by attaching a separate triangular piece of fabric to the back of the skirt, as seen in fanback and fishtail skirts. Another option is the "bubble" shape, which is wide at the knee and tapered inward at the hem, creating a puffy, rounded appearance.
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The end of the dress is called the hem
The end of a wedding dress is called the hem. A hem is a garment finishing method that prevents the fabric from unravelling and adjusts the length of the piece. The process of hemming involves folding and sewing the edge of a piece of cloth. The most common hem folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. This completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, preventing it from unravelling.
There are many different styles of hems, ranging from simple to complex. Some hems use fewer folds, while others may have multiple folds to enclose the edge of the fabric. A simple hem can be created using an overcast stitch, which sews the edge of the cloth without any folds. This stitch can also be used to finish a folded "plain hem". Plain hems are folded once and sewn with a running stitch. Hem repair tape can be used as an alternative to sewing or fixing a hem. It is placed along the inside of the hem as a continuous, thin length of non-woven fusible interfacing.
The depth of a hem can vary and may include a seam allowance. The depth chosen will depend on the desired style and the amount of fabric available. A typical skirt hem may range from 5 to 7.6 cm (2 to 3 inches) in depth. Heavier fabrics generally require a shorter hem. An interface fabric can be added to the hem to add fullness and reduce wrinkling.
Hemming a wedding dress can be a tricky process, especially for formal dresses with full skirts or beading. The grain of the fabric and the desired length must be carefully considered before cutting and hemming the dress.
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The back of the skirt can be extended into a train
The bottom half of a wedding dress is called the skirt, and it can be extended into a train at the back. The skirt is one of the most important parts of a wedding dress, as it dictates the silhouette and overall aesthetic of the ensemble. The shape, size, and length of the skirt vary from dress to dress, with some being more form-fitting and others more voluminous.
A train describes the long back portion of a skirt or dress that trails behind the wearer. It is a common feature of wedding dresses, adding a sense of timeless beauty and elegance. Trains can range in length from several inches to up to 12 feet, with modern bridal terminology distinguishing between different types of trains:
- Cathedral train or monarch train: Measuring up to eight feet in length, with a royal cathedral train being the longest at 10 feet or more.
- Chapel train: A medium-length train that reaches up to five feet in length.
- Court train: A narrow train extending one metre behind the dress, typically worn for formal court occasions and adhering to strict dress codes.
- Sweep train: A short train that may not reach the floor, often just sweeping the ground.
- Watteau train: A modern version of the pleated backs seen in 18th-century sack-back gowns.
- Fishtail train: Flaring out from midway down a close-fitting skirt, this style has been popular since the 1870s.
- Demi-train: A shorter train formed by having the back of the garment slightly longer than the front.
When adding a train to a skirt, individuals can choose the length and fullness of the train and whether it will be detachable. To create a voluminous train, fabric can be gathered at the waist, deep pleats can be added, or V-shaped panels of fabric can be incorporated. The train can be made detachable by adding hooks near the middle and eyes in a discreet location at the waist, allowing the wearer to move more freely after the ceremony.
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Frequently asked questions
The top part of a wedding dress is called the bodice. The bodice covers the torso from the neckline to the waistline and may connect to sleeves.
The bottom half of a wedding dress is called the skirt. The skirt comes in a variety of different shapes, sizes, and lengths.
The very bottom of a wedding dress is called the hem. The hem may extend into a train or a dress tail.
