Franklin Dean
Wedding ring shawls are large, intricate lace wraps that can measure up to three or four square feet. They are knit from thread so fine that they can pass through a wedding band. Wedding ring shawls are steeped in tradition and are symbolic of the Shetland and Orenburg, Russia regions. The Orenburg shawl, also known as the wedding ring shawl, is a Russian knitted lace textile using goat down and stands as one of the classic symbols of Russian handicraft. The Shetland Islands are known for their lace knitting and have a number of traditional patterns used to knit their gossamer strands into delicate shawls.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name | Wedding Ring Shawl, Shetland Wedding Ring Shawl, Orenburg Wedding Ring Shawl, Queen Anne's Lace Shawl |
| Origin | Shetland Islands, Russia (Orenburg region), Estonia |
| Material | Goat down, silk, indigenous goat fiber, similar to cashmere or mohair |
| Size | Up to 4 ft. by 4 ft. square |
| Weight | 250-300 grams |
| Symbolism | Proficiency of the spinner, fineness and quality of the material |
| Patterns | Geometric, cobweb-like, nupps (bobble stitches) |
| Difficulty | Ultra-skilled, requiring time, concentration, and patience |
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What You'll Learn
Wedding ring shawls are made from a blend of silk and indigenous goat fibre
Wedding ring shawls are a type of finely knitted lace shawl that originated in the Orenburg region of Russia about 250 years ago. They are known as "wedding ring" shawls because, despite being quite large, measuring up to three or four square feet, they are knit from thread so fine that they can be pulled through a wedding ring. This was a testament to the skill of the spinner, who could spin yarn so finely. The fineness of the yarn also allowed the shawls to be very warm despite their light weight.
The Orenburg shawls are made from a blend of silk and indigenous goat fibre, similar to cashmere or mohair. The down hair of Orenburg goats is among the thinnest in the world, ranging from 16 to 18 micrometers. The severe snowy winters of the Ural mountain steppes, along with specific qualities of feed and living conditions, contribute to the thinness of the goat hair. The silk is plied with the goat fibre to hold the shape of the lace and increase the strength of the shawl, as well as to decrease the price due to reduced labour requirements.
The Orenburg goat breed can only be reared in the Orenburg region, and attempts to import these goats to France in the 19th century were unsuccessful due to the warm climate. The Orenburg shawls became popular in Europe through an enterprise organised by an English firm, and they stand as one of the classic symbols of Russian handicraft. Today, Orenburg shawls are created by master knitters seeking to preserve the traditions of the past, and the intricate patterns require patience and focus to execute.
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The goat fibre is handspun using a supported spindle
Wedding ring shawls, also known as Orenburg shawls, are famous for their fine knitting. The goat fibre is handspun using a supported spindle, with each goat yielding about a pound of fibre. The resulting yarn is extremely thin and fine, allowing an 8-foot shawl to slip through a wedding ring. This fineness is a testament to the spinner's skill and the importance of spinning as a craft.
The Orenburg shawl originated in the Orenburg region of Russia about 250 years ago and has become a symbol of Russian handicraft. The down hair of Orenburg goats is among the thinnest in the world, ranging from 16 to 18 micrometers. This fineness is due in part to the severe snowy winters of the Ural mountain steppes and the specific qualities of the goats' feed and living conditions.
Originally, the shawls were made entirely of goat fibre, but the introduction of silk decreased the labour required and increased the shawls' strength. The combination of silk and goat fibre also made the shawls more affordable. After the yarn is spun and plied, the shawl is knitted before the yarn is washed. The yarn and fibre remain unwashed until the shawl is complete and ready for blocking and sale.
The Orenburg shawls come in various shapes, including rectangular, square, and triangular, and feature different geometric designs. The size of the shawls can vary from 5 feet by 5 feet to smaller headscarf-sized pieces. The colour of the shawl depends on the colouring of the goats, and some shawls even contain multiple colours.
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The fineness of the yarn is a test of the spinner's skill
Wedding ring shawls, also known as Orenburg shawls, are large, intricate lace wraps that can measure up to three or four square feet. They are made from yarn that is so fine that they can pass through a wedding band. The fineness of the yarn is a testament to the skill of the spinner, who would spin the yarn by hand.
The tradition of Orenburg down-hair knitting originated in the Orenburg region of Russia about 250 years ago, in the 18th century. The Orenburg goat breed, native to this region, produces some of the thinnest down hair in the world, ranging from 16 to 18 micrometers. The severe snowy winters of the Ural mountain steppes, along with the specific qualities of feed and living conditions, contribute to the fineness of the goat's down hair.
The process of creating the yarn for these shawls is a complex and intricate art. The goat fiber is handspun using a supported spindle and then plied against a commercial silk thread. The silk helps to hold the shape of the lace and increases the strength of the shawl. The fineness of the yarn is a result of the spinner's skill in carefully handling these delicate fibers and creating a consistent and uniform yarn.
In the past, when all yarns were homespun, spinning was a craft that was rightfully recognized as important. The fineness of the yarn was a source of pride for the spinner and a testament to their proficiency. Today, most Orenburg shawls are created by master knitters who seek to preserve the traditions of the past. The patterns are intricate and require patience, commitment, and unwavering focus.
The fineness of the yarn used in wedding ring shawls is not only a practical necessity but also adds to the aesthetic value of the shawl. The delicate and intricate patterns of the lace are enhanced by the fine yarn, creating a web-like" structure that gives the fabric a special grace. The fineness of the yarn is a key factor in the overall beauty and elegance of the shawl.
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The shawls are large, intricate lace wraps
Wedding ring shawls are large, intricate lace wraps that can measure up to three or four square feet. They are knit from thread so fine that they can pass through a wedding band. These shawls are symbols of the Shetland and Orenburg, Russia regions and are steeped in tradition. The Shetland Islands are known for their lace knitting, with a number of traditional patterns used to knit gossamer strands into delicate shawls. Estonia is another home to lace shawl traditions, but its patterns differ from those of Shetland and Russia by including the Nupp, or bobble stitches.
Orenburg shawls, also known as "wedding ring" shawls, originated in the Orenburg area about 250 years ago in the 18th century. They are made from a blend of silk and indigenous goat fiber, similar to cashmere or mohair. The goat fiber is handspun using a supported spindle and then plied against a commercial silk thread. The silk helps hold the shape of the lace and increases the shawl's strength. The shawls are knitted into a variety of geometric designs and shapes, including rectangular, square, and triangular.
The Orenburg goat breed can only be reared in the Orenburg region, as the thinness of its hair is partly due to the severe snowy winters of the Ural mountain steppes, along with particular qualities of feed and living conditions. The down hair of Orenburg goats is among the thinnest in the world, ranging from 16-18 micrometers, making products made from it extremely soft and fine. Despite being so fine, the fiber is very durable, more so than wool.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, France imported tens of thousands of poods of Orenburg goat down hair, which was valued more highly than cashmere. The Orenburg shawl became popular in Europe through an enterprise organized by an English firm. However, the wars and the Iron Curtain of the Soviet Era cut short the epoch of the worldwide fame of Orenburg's handicraft. Today, Orenburg shawls are created by master knitters seeking to preserve the traditions of the past.
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The Shetland Islands are known for their lace knitting
Lace knitting in Shetland dates back to the nineteenth century when it became established as a secondary income for crofters and fishing families. The unwashed wool from Shetland sheep was carded or combed and worsted spun on a small upright spinning wheel called a Shetland spinnie. This process created an extremely fine thread that could be twined into two-ply yarn. The yarn was then knitted into delicate lace patterns with distinctive lace edges, often featuring complex motifs such as ferns, cockleshells, and flowers.
The Shetland lace knitting tradition gained prominence when Arthur Anderson, a Shetland businessman and co-founder of the P&O shipping line, presented Queen Victoria with some lace items. This royal endorsement sparked a fashion for ladies to wear Shetland shawls and stockings, and the industry flourished as an important part of the Shetland economy. The fine lace was originally knitted by Shetland women for sale to the wealthy, while the warmer "hap" shawls, with garter centres and lacy edges, were knitted and worn by local women and used as baby shawls.
Today, Shetland lace knitting is practised by a small number of dedicated artisans, as it is difficult to make a viable income from the time-consuming craft. However, the tradition continues to inspire modern interpretations, with artists like Susan Pearson exhibiting lace sculptures and former architect Mike Finnie creating jewellery featuring Fair Isle motifs. The Shetland Wool Week, an annual event, also draws worldwide interest and celebrates the islands' textile heritage.
One notable example of Shetland lace is the "wedding ring shawl," so finely knitted that it could be pulled through a wedding ring. This was a testament to the skill of the spinner and the fineness of the yarn. While the exact symbolism behind this tradition is unclear, it is believed to represent the quality and craftsmanship of the shawl.
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Frequently asked questions
Wedding ring shawls are large, intricate lace wraps that can measure up to three or four square feet. They are knit from thread so fine that they can pass through a wedding band.
Wedding ring shawls are symbolic of the Shetland Islands and Orenburg, Russia. The Orenburg shawl is a Russian knitted lace textile using goat down and stands as one of the classic symbols of Russian handicraft. The Shetland Islands are known for their lace knitting and have a number of traditional patterns used to knit their gossamer strands into delicate shawls.
Wedding ring shawls are made from a blend of silk and indigenous goat fibre, similar to cashmere or mohair. The goat down used is among the thinnest in the world, ranging from 16-18 micrometres.
The fineness of the shawl demonstrated the proficiency of the spinner and the quality of the material.
