George Boyle
Royal wedding dresses have been the centrepiece of many weddings, with some being considered the best of all time. From Princess Diana's record-breaking gown to Kate Middleton's lace dress, royal wedding dresses are often bespoke and designed by some of the most sought-after fashion designers in the world. They are made to impress and create lasting moments in fashion history. These dresses are usually kept secret until the big reveal and can take months to make. They are also often accompanied by jaw-droppingly expensive jewels.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fabric | Satin, lace, silk, tulle, crepe, feathers, lamé, jacquard, cotton, viscose |
| Details | Embroidery, beading, pearls, crystals, floral motifs, bows, fur trim, lace overskirt, puffy sleeves, veil, tiara |
| Style | Full-length, long sleeves, v-neck, high-neck, sleeveless, ballgown, A-line, drop waist, full skirt, pleated skirt, corseted, padded hips, hourglass shape |
| Color | White, off-white, blue, silver |
| Designer | Samantha Shaw, Samantha Keswick, Jasper Conran, Bruce Robbins, Helen Rose, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Peter Pilotto, Christopher De Vos, Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen, Valentino |
| Royal Brides | Princess Alice, Princess Louise Margaret, Princess Helena, Princess Beatrice, Queen Victoria, Duchess Wallis, Queen Elizabeth II, Queen Soraya, Princess Grace Kelly, Dona Fabiola, Princess Anne Marie, Princess Caroline, Princess Mabel van Oranje, Queen Sonja, Princess Eugenie, Meghan Markle, Kate Middleton, Princess Diana, Princess Margaret, Serena Armstrong-Jones |
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What You'll Learn
Princess Diana's wedding dress
On July 29, 1981, Lady Diana Spencer married Charles, Prince of Wales, at St Paul's Cathedral in London, in a wedding that was aptly described as a "fairytale" occasion. The wedding dress of Lady Diana Spencer, later the Princess of Wales, is one of the most famous in history and remains a source of inspiration and fascination for brides-to-be and designers alike. Designed by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, the dress was a closely guarded secret until the big reveal on her wedding day, and it did not disappoint.
The dress was a romantic, dramatic, and extravagant creation, with a record-breaking train that measured an impressive 25 feet (7.62 meters). Made from ivory silk taffeta and antique lace, the dress featured a fitted bodice with a heart-shaped neckline, thick, padded shoulders, and a full, structured skirt that fell into a billowing train. The bodice was decorated with hand-painted sequins and pearls, and the multiple layers of tulle petticoats gave the skirt a voluminous, fairy-tale-like shape. One of the most iconic features of the dress was the intricate lace sleeves, which were designed to evoke a historic, regal feel, and were generously puffed and trimmed with bows and ruffles.
To complement the dress, Diana wore a stunning, ancient-style, diamond-encrusted tiara, loaned to her by her mother-in-law, Queen Elizabeth. The tiara was a perfect match for the dress, adding a further sense of regal elegance to the ensemble. In her hands, she held a small, delicate bouquet of gardenias, stephanotis, and lilies of the valley, which were her something new, something borrowed, and something blue, as the bouquet included a small blue ribbon.
The dress was a well-kept secret, and the designers, the Emmansuels, went to great lengths to ensure that the design remained a surprise. They even went so far as to provide false clues to the press, such as claiming that the dress would be made of pink silk, to ensure the element of surprise on the day. On the day of the wedding, the dress did not disappoint, and it has since become one of the most iconic and recognizable wedding dresses of all time, setting trends and inspiring bridal fashion for decades to come.
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Princess Kate Middleton's lace wedding dress
Royal wedding dresses have been the talk of the town for decades, with Princess Diana's gown setting the style for wedding dresses for several years. Princess Kate Middleton's lace wedding dress was no exception, sparking trends and inspiring bridal designer collections.
The dress was a bespoke design by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. Princess Kate opted for lace sleeves, a simple boned bodice, and an A-line silk gazar skirt with lace applique. The lace appliqué on the skirt and bodice was handmade by the Royal School of Needlework, based at Hampton Court Palace, using the Carrickmacross lace-making technique. This involved hand-cutting lace flowers, including roses, thistles, daffodils, and shamrocks, and adding them to ivory silk tulle. The dress also featured 58 gazar and organza-covered buttons down the back, fastened by rouleau loops, and a short train compared to Princess Diana's 25-foot train.
The choice of lace for the dress was unique and unusual, as strapless gowns had dominated bridal designer collections in the previous years. The lace was created by the family-run lacemakers Sophie Hallette, based in Caudry, France. They have supplied brands such as Dior and Givenchy and created the lace used in Kate Middleton's dress. The dress also included a "something blue" sewn into the gorgeous gown, a sweet floral tribute to her parents.
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Princess Eugenie's fairytale gown
Princess Eugenie's wedding dress was designed by British-based label Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos. The dress was made of silk and featured a wide-neck V shape, folded shoulders, and a low back that draped into a flowing full-length train. The low back design was intentional, as Eugenie wanted to reveal her scar from scoliosis surgery at age 12, reflecting her belief in "showing people your scars" and redefining beauty norms.
The fabric of the dress incorporated meaningful symbols, including a Scottish thistle representing the couple's love for Balmoral, a shamrock honouring Eugenie's mother's heritage, the White Rose of York, and ivy symbolising the couple's home. The designers also included a voluminous bow-like fold in the back of the dress to add texture and drama, befitting the grandeur of the venue, St. George's Chapel at Windsor Castle.
The choice of designers was notable, as Pilotto and De Vos are not British, which some critics interpreted as a statement about "Britishness" and the complexities of Brexit. Eugenie's decision to forgo a veil and showcase her scar was also significant, as it drew attention to a cause close to her heart and empowered others with scars.
Overall, the gown was described as stunning, especially the back view. Some commentators found the front a little "lackluster" and "matronly", suggesting a slightly plunging neckline would have been more modern and flattering. Nonetheless, the dress was generally well-received, with praise for its elegant silhouette and thoughtful details.
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Princess Beatrice's vintage gown
Princess Beatrice's wedding dress was a vintage Norman Hartnell gown loaned to her by her grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II. The dress was made from Peau De Soie taffeta in shades of ivory, trimmed with ivory Duchess satin, with organza sleeves. It was encrusted with diamanté and featured a geometric checkered bodice. The gown was remodelled and fitted by the Queen's dressmakers, Angela Kelly and Stewart Parvin, who adjusted the original 1962 design to flatter the Princess.
Beatrice's choice to wear a vintage gown was a break from past royal brides, who typically enlist a couturier to craft a custom garment. The decision to borrow a dress from the Queen's collection was reportedly an impromptu one. The Queen first wore the gown in 1962 and again at the 1966 State Opening of Parliament.
The vintage style of the gown inspired designer Phil Woodhead of House of Mooshki, who said: "We at House of Mooshki are constantly inspired by the mid-century silhouettes and styles in our bridal wear. We love that Princess Beatrice chose a vintage couture gown originally worn by HM The Queen".
The overall reaction to Princess Beatrice's wedding dress was very positive. One source described the dress as stunning, noting that it lived up to fans' high expectations. Another said that Beatrice looked "absolutely enchanting, like a bride from a fairytale". The same source went on to describe the dress as "unique and romantic", and praised the significant history of the gown.
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Queen Elizabeth's pearl-detailed dress
Queen Elizabeth II's wedding dress, worn at her wedding to Philip Mountbatten, Duke of Edinburgh, on 20 November 1947, is considered one of the most fashion-forward dresses of its time. The dress was designed by Norman Hartnell, who was appointed the task of creating the royal wedding dress. Hartnell submitted 12 potential designs, and once one was approved, he began constructing the gown. The final design was approved only three months before the wedding, and the dress was made in less than three months.
The dress was made of ivory silk and featured a heart-shaped neckline, long tight sleeves, a low v-pointed waist, and a floor-length panelled skirt. The gown was embellished with 10,000 seed pearls, crystals, and gold and silver thread embroidery. The dress also featured a 13-foot train made of silk tulle and inspired by Botticelli's famous painting Primavera, which symbolises the coming of spring. The train was adorned with scattered flowers, wheat, and other motifs of post-war rebirth, including roses, jasmine blossoms, and ears of wheat.
The dress was paid for using clothing coupons, as the country was still under wartime rationing. People from across the country sent the Princess their coupons to contribute, although these were returned, and she paid for the dress herself. The total cost of the dress was $42,000, equivalent to approximately $1.6 million today.
The pearl-detailed dress was completed with two pearl necklaces, gifts from her father, King George VI, and a pair of ivory satin sandals with silver buckles studded with tiny pearls. The entire event was recorded and broadcast by BBC Radio to a global audience of 200 million listeners, making it one of the most significant public events of the post-war era.
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Frequently asked questions
Some of the most iconic royal wedding dresses include those of Princess Diana, Grace Kelly, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth II, Duchess of Sussex, and Kate Middleton.
Princess Diana wore an ivory and silk taffeta gown with a 25-foot train, a ruffled neckline, puffy sleeves, and voluminous skirt. The dress was designed by Elizabeth and David Emanuel and featured antique lace, a blue bow at the waistband, and a gold horseshoe.
Grace Kelly wore a dress designed by Academy Award-winning costume designer Helen Rose. The dress was made with 300 yards of antique Belgian lace, ivory faille, and silk net. It featured an embroidered pearl and Brussels lace bodice.
Queen Victoria's daughters, Princess Helena and Princess Louise, wore dresses made of white satin and decorated with Honiton lace and traditional myrtle leaves. Princess Helena's dress also featured a long train and sprays of orange flowers. Princess Louise's dress had a short veil that she designed herself and was held in place by diamond daisy hair pins.
Kate Middleton wore a custom Alexander McQueen gown designed by Sarah Burton. The ivory dress featured lace sleeves, a V-neck bodice with floral details, and a nine-foot train.
